I stumbled upon this question over at the excellent beauty blog Doryn’s Dish. Essentially, the reader wanted to know if the salon products that you buy at the local Kroger (general store) are the same as the ones you can buy at a salon. The answer referenced this story by a news team out of Fort Meyers, Florida. The story was so biased and misinformed I thought a balanced, insider response was needed. We’ll reproduce it here for our readers.
Interesting story. We are cosmetic chemists that work in the industry and know that this story is a bit skewed. If the news reporters wanted to get the “real” story, they shouldn’t be asking the head of Paul Mitchell because he is completely biased.
The truth is these salon brands depend on ‘diverted’ product to boost their sales. They want to have it both ways. They want to tell you that Paul Mitchell is a salon-only brand which makes it seem more exclusive, but they also want the high volume sales that they can only get through mass market outlets like your local Kroger. Additionally, they don’t want to anger their salon distributors because people are able to get the same stuff but for cheaper.
They make up this story of products being inferior. In nearly all cases, they are not.
The way diversion works is this. Paul Mitchell hires a company to manufacture their products. Then Paul Mitchell sales people get and fill orders from distributors. Distributors are legitimate businesses that sell directly to independent salons. The distributors can order as much as they want, then sell it to the salons who can then sell it to you.
Some of these distributors work directly with stores like Kroger, Albertsons, etc. So when these stores put in an order (a really big order compared to a salon) the distributors just order more product from Paul Mitchell to fill the Kroger order.
Paul Mitchell doesn’t even question the big orders because they like the extra sales. They turn a blind eye to what`s going on just so they can express public “outrage” that their product is being sold at the local drugstore. This is bunch of bunk.
The stuff you get at the local Kroger is every bit as good as the stuff you get at the salon. Don’t be fooled. If the folks at Paul Mitchell really wanted to stop these sales, they would simply question their distributors and find out who is selling to Kroger, or Target or Albertson.
The problem of counterfeiting is a real one, but it’s not something that you’ll find at large stores like Kroger. That company is not going to sell something contaminated because they would be sued in a heartbeat. The places that are a little more sketchy are the small shops (some salons) with the dust on top of the bottles. Those are the places you have to worry about.
The Beauty Brains Bottom line…
You can trust that if you’re buying a salon brand from a regular store, there is no difference between it and the stuff you can get at a salon.
And if anyone from one of those salon brands sees it differently, they are welcome to respond to the Beauty Brains.
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Kevin O. Says:
I have some grey hair that I’d like to color but to look natural. Just curious, what’s the best store-bought hair color for men? I would prefer to use something that I could shampoo-in once a week or so. Or, a semi-permanent product that would fade after several shampoos so that I would not have the obvious grey roots. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks - Kevin O
Victoria Says:
Hi… I am an esthetician who sells MD Formulations. When I was on maternity leave a long time customer repurchased on of her favorite MD Formulations Cleansers at a local flee market for less than the wholesale cost. She then complained that it was breaking her out. I asked to see it and when she showed it to me it clearly was not the same product. Different odor, color, texture, but the exact same packaging. Buyer beware!
thebeautybrains Says:
Yes, beware of opinions expressed by people who are selling products. Although, we wouldn’t recommend buying your beauty products from Flee Markets either. This post just says if you find a salon product at a legitimate grocery store you can be sure it’s the same thing you can get at your salon.
Skye Says:
There is truth in your statement here but you don’t know all the facts! Paul Mitchell products in a Salon actually are better than the products that his chemicals go into in the store! Fact is that what you buy in the salon has the right amount of each chemical so that the product will do what the bottle says. Now what goes into the store is a portion of what you can buy in a salon but they add water and different types of sulfates to dilute the product. So in this case then your product from the store is not the same as the salon product. You have a good case here but you don’t have all the facts!
thebeautybrains Says:
Skye, we do know the facts. The facts are that Paul Mitchell products in the salon use the same ingredients that the ones you get in the store use. There is no difference. Look at the ingredients on the labels!
It is complete nonsense that they “add water and different types of sulfates to dilute the product.” They don’t.
Our facts are based on a comparative scientific analysis of the salon formula versus a store bought formula. Where do you get your facts?
Karen Tracey Says:
As a sales rep selling professional beauty products for over 10 years, one major differnce about the salon products found in supermarkets and drugstores is how old they are. I look all of the time and constantly find packaging that was discontined sometimes 5 to 7 years ago. Gross! Plus, the products often cost more than in the slon. Buying from a salon not only supports a local business it also ensures your products are fresh.
thebeautybrains Says:
Karen: I too have seen old product in supermarkets and drug stores. But that’s usually only in the small “mom and pop” type stores. The main mass market chains do NOT keep inventory that’s 5 to 7 years old. And for that matter, I’ve been in some salons that carried old product as well. So I agree that you shouldn’t be buying products that are more than 5 year old, I don’t think that’s a good reason to shop in a salon.
Jed Flyster Says:
This is for Kevin. I tried MiN’s Color (amazon.com) and had great results! It’s so much better than Just for Men. Just thought you might want to give it a shot.
Skye Says:
well beauty brains i didn’t go to school to learn about how to keep peoples hair healthy and show them what is good for their hair for you to just fill everyones head up with nonsense. i spent a lot of time in school learning about these things to help out my clients and my clients will be the first to let you know that i don’t push products on them but i do educate them in the things that i learned through school i paid good money to get my license…what have you done besides try to fill peoples heads with crap?
thebeautybrains Says:
Skye:
We certainly don’t mean to imply that you’re pushing products that you don’t believe in. Our point is that sometimes the professional salon companies convince stylists that their products are better than “mass market” brands when this is not scientifically true.
We’re sure you worked very hard to get through beauty school and you should be proud of that. But with all due respect, that does not make you a cosmetic chemist.
In addition to advanced chemistry degrees, we have been formulating and testing hair care products for over 30 years (between all the Brains combined) and so the “crap” that we’re filling people’s heads with is based on a solid understanding of the chemistry of formulations and how they interact with biology of hair.
The bottom line: You’re an expert in cutting, coloring and styling hair. We’re experts in the science of hair care formulas and what they do to hair.
Sabeena Says:
I worked in a salon for a couple of years when I was studying and learnt a lot about the question you’ve raised. My theory from first hand experience is this - if you have problem free hair and you don’t heat style, then commercial products are fine. If you do have problem hair, then some of the cheaper salon brands can help. If you have major problem hair and you heat style, colour, bleach and constantly test your hairs ability to break then unfortunately the better products do the job - with different ranges suiting different hair types. Paul mitchell for example didnt work at all for me. But Kerastase did.
If you straighten your hair with a professional tong at 200 o.C, then you need a professional protector, which i’m afriad (and i’ve tried them all) you don’t find in the shops. Any products with silicone in it like pantene are bad for heat styling - as they form a silicone barrier which appears shiny on the surface, but can break your hair with intensive heat. You need a product that actually makes your hair shiny from the core.
Remember l’Oreal own more haircare lines than anyone else - kerastase, l’Oreal professional, L’oreal Elvive (commercial) Matrix and Redken to name a few - and they’re all different prices, and i’m afriad the quality is reflected by that - but its a clever marketing technique.
My advice to anyone who has average hair, with not too many issues to use an organic shampoo, or anything oil based (not for greasy hair), even coconut oil on its own is a great hairdresser secret for condition - like food, the less chemicals, the less damage.
Michele Says:
I have nice hair. It is in great condition and I always get compliments from my stylist. I wash and dry it every day. I also color often. What do I use? Head and Shoulders shampoo. I only use conditioner once and while and use what ever is on hand. So I definately agree that you don’t have to use expensive products to have great hair!
Authorized Tigi products - Specktra.Net Says:
[...] brains articles, but I find that they’re so helpful! esp this one which answers your q i hope The Beauty Brains ? Blog Archive ? Are salon products in regular stores the same as those in salons __________________ Jessica Representing the San Francisco Bay Area *the place I call home*
[...]
Liz Says:
Beauty Brains, when you responded:
“We’re sure you worked very hard to get through beauty school and you should be proud of that. But with all due respect, that does not make you a cosmetic chemist.
In addition to advanced chemistry degrees, we have been formulating and testing hair care products for over 30 years (between all the Brains combined) and so the “crap” that we’re filling people’s heads with is based on a solid understanding of the chemistry of formulations and how they interact with biology of hair.
The bottom line: You’re an expert in cutting, coloring and styling hair. We’re experts in the science of hair care formulas and what they do to hair.”
I just sat there smiling and thinking in my head “Oooohhhhh!”. I’m currently in school majoring in Chemistry and will be changing that to Chemical Engineering soon. I’m striving to become a cosmetic chemist none the less. Thank you for answering this question I had. I just recently got into more high end hair care and wanted to know what all this rumor was about with salon products being sold at drugstores, supposedly being unauthentic or of less quality.
michelle Says:
everyones hair is different .some people need a good salon shampoo and others can handle a waxy shampoo. i prefer to use good products on my hair because i feel the difference. people go to a salon to get help with their questions. and if they would like to continue to see hairstylists around then they should buy products from a licensed salon because thats what ususally pays the rent!
Left Brain Says:
Michelle,
I’m scratching my head trying to think of what store brand shampoo uses wax in their formulas. I can’t think of a single one. And don’t say Pantene because there isn’t any wax in it. If you disagree, which ingredient do you consider wax?
The Most Expensive, Disturbing Valentines Day Present You’ll Ever See | Beauty Secrets Blog Says:
[...] Are Salon Products Better Than Store Brands? [...]
Alic Says:
This is certainly a tricky debate… when you pay more for a salon brand, you are paying more for the support behind the product such as the stylists advice - for example, most salons will allow you to trade in a partially used bottle for a new type if it didn’t work out for you. Drugstore brands usually don’t offer that support - but you get a cheaper price. Hey, I’m in the Salon Biz, and I totally agree with your site on the Diversion debate. It lets the big companies play both sides.
Cathie Says:
I sat in the salon and was a little put off by a person working there telling a customer that the Bed Head products at Wegman’s (a major grocery chain in my area and #3 on Fortune 100’s best company to work for, list) were all “bootleg.” People don’t realize that…hello? If they were bootleg, don’t they thing the real company would do something about it? I mean supposedly it’s illegal right? So…why would they continue to be allowed to carry it? My mom is best friends with a woman who owns her own salon and she refuses to tell people that they’re not the same. She says they are the same, and it’s just what people are taught. This is stressed so adamantly to the workers that they become passionate about it. They actually believe they’re telling the truth. Now, I actually do have 2 questions. 1) Isn’t this slander? I mean, can’t salons get in trouble over this? and 2) I had a perm in June 2007, and just colored it yesterday (April 2008). My hair’s pretty dry and before the perm I had colored it several times before. What would be the best products for processed hair like mine?
Alic Says:
I bought a bottle of Bedhead shampoo at Rexall this week (pharmacy chain) and it was totally different inside the bottle than the salon version I’ve been buying.. different shade, different smell. When I looked closer at the bottle, there were little changes in the label - 90% same, but some different wording. So, I think sometimes product is ‘bootleg’… like the big scandal with the fake Colgate being sold at a discount chain last year.
thebeautybrains Says:
Alic,
Shampoo companies re-launch their products all the time and change things like color, fragrance, formula, packaging, etc. If indeed your experience happened as you reported, a more likely explanation is that you were buying an older version of the product on one occasion and a newer version on the other.
Also, just because there are occasional stories in which bootleg products do get sold, that doesn’t mean it happens frequently. In fact, you are more likely to get bootleg products at an independent salon then you will at a large chain store.
bri Says:
im also a hairstylist and we put alot of effort into selling products and giving advice to our clients. your article is completely untrue, what you get in the regular stores are NOT okay to buy. we have many representatives of product lines that give us places to report places doing this. you are NOT going to get bootleg products in an independent salon and i think it is ridiculous that you even said that. why would we want to give our clients something that was bootleg? we have actual product representatives from the comany, large chain stores do not. they buy it from the black market and then try to sell it to people because they know people will buy it because its easier to get your hair products while you’re grocery shopping instead of making another trip to the salon when you don’t need to go there. and we do NOT ‘depend’ on these chain stores selling the products. we depend on our clients buying it from us, which is obviously the smart thing to do. a chain store cannot tell you what products are good for your hair or how to use them correctly. and distributors do NOT sell them to chain stores, it would not be in their best interest to do that because they would not make money off the products they sell to salons. it is extremely offensive for you to tell people this is okay because it is false information and it is wrong.
Left Brain Says:
I respectfully disagree. Since I work in the manufacturing end of the beauty business, I get to see a different side than you. I can understand how you come to your conclusions. I just have had a different experience. Distributors do sell to chain stores precisely because they make more money than they do when they sell to independent salons. It’s just how the business works.
Tiffany Says:
OK, as a hairdresser, I dont care how much you say that they sell to these stores, THEY DONT. That would defeat the purpose of the parts of their web pages, where we as hairdressers, can report diversion. It doesnt help them it hurts. AND just so you know, JPM and other companies are joining forces to create a way to track these bottles and know where they are going so that they can STOP diversion. It hurts us, and its been proven with many testing that they have found many of these products to have been switched and or really old. And I completely agree with BRI, it is very offensive when you are saying that it is ok, and that its going to be the same. WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!!!!!!!!
thebeautybrains Says:
We’ll just have to agree to disagree.
Sumi Says:
Hmmm….I think I’m going to take a chemist’s word over a hairdresser’s any day. The best thing though about buying product in a salon is that you can get a stylist’s opinion. That’s why I usually prefer to buy higher-end makeup as well; I want someone to help me with it and make recommendations.
Nicole Says:
Wow, what a great debate! I can understand a stylist frustration with so called “professional” products selling out to chain stores. For a stylist her product sales feeds her family. When their sold at Target it feeds the congloberant s/p :). In addition, as a professional she has chosen a hair care line to represent and truely believes in her line.
In my opinion, it’s all about the ingredients, and the level of active ingredients. Some ingredients are just better than others. I’m not a shampoo expert, but do experience better results from shampoos that are formulated for my hair type.
I agree with Sumi that it is great to have an a beauty professional help make personal recomendations and help narrow down the choices from amoung the many product lines.
P.S. I understand your point; salon products sold in stores are they the same? I think some reader may have misunderstood your post. Good read thanks!