As we saw in Part 1 of this series, perfumers design new fragrances based on a fragrance brief, a profile provided by the company requesting the new scent that describes the desired characteristics of the new fragrance. Based on this direction, the perfumers must select ingredients like those we talked about in Part 2 to build the fragrance with. As we saw, there are thousands of ingredients to choose from. In Part 3, we talk about the process used to select these ingredients.

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Selecting and Blending Ingredients

This selection process is part science and part art. A scientific background is required to understand the chemistry of how fragrance ingredients react with each other and the product they will be put into. (Remember, perfumers are not only creating perfumes, but fragrances that are used in skin lotions, nail polish removers, hair conditioners, and hundreds of other products.) An artistic flair is required to understand how different fragrance ingredients can invoke moods and feelings. As you can see, a master perfumer must be a good chemist and a good artist to get the job done properly.

The perfumer begins the process by building an accord which is the basic backbone of the fragrance that establishes its basic character Is it floral, fruity, or spicy? A complex fragrance may contain multiple accords that are layered on top of one another. After the perfumer has created this basic version of the fragrance, an evaluator assesses it to see how well it meets the requirements of the brief. In this stage, the fragrance is added to the actual product it is intended to be used in and smelled. The evaluator is looking at how well the fragrance meets the concept as well as initial compatibility with the base.

Based on the results of these evaluations, the fragrance may then go back to the perfumer for further tweaking. Several rounds of formulating and evaluation may be required before they are both satisfied with the fragrance as a viable candidate for the project.

Evaluating the Fragrance

Once the perfumer and evaluator agree that the fragrance is acceptable, it’s ready to be put through a series of additional tests. The simplest tests are consumer panels that are used to ensure people perceive the fragrance the way the perfumer intended. Other tests are used to measure the strength of the fragrance or the way it blooms when the product is dispensed. While a perfume is easy to evaluate by spraying onto skin or a paper blotter, it can be trickier to test fragrances designed for products that are diluted in water like shampoos and body washes. For this reason, the larger fragrance houses are equipped with sensory testing centers that allow them to evaluate products under a variety of conditions. For example, a shampoo fragrance can be tested in a chamber which simulates a bathroom shower. This way the fragrance can be smelled under “real life” conditions.

These test results are used to further optimize the fragrance. If the fragrance did not bloom well enough in the shower or if didn’t last long enough on skin, the perfumers can return to the laboratory to make modifications. Once the fragrance has passed all these in-house evaluations, it’s ready for the final test which is typically done with a larger number of panelists. It’s typical to have up to 100 people smell the final fragrance to make sure it meets the requirements of the original fragrance brief.

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Testing for Safety

Throughout the process, safety is a primary concern. Perfumers only use raw materials that have been pre-screened to ensure their safety. Ingredients that have serious health concerns are banned from use. Others which have no serious issues but which have the potential to induce a mild allergic reaction in some people, are identified by name. Recent laws require the listing of these fragrance allergens on the ingredient statement for the final product. This is helpful to consumers that have allergies to fragrance components, because they can read the ingredient list and avoid products that contain that ingredient.

The Final Steps

This entire development process, from the time the brief is submitted to the time that a fragrance is complete, usually takes at least 2 months, depending on the nature of the project. At the end of the time, samples of the fragrance oil are sent to the client for evaluation. In final part of this series, we’ll look at how cosmetic formulators at the client company add the new fragrance to a product.

Similar Posts:

• Fragrance Science Part 4: Formulating Finished Products
• Fragrance: The Most Expensive Ingredient in Cosmetics?
• Fragrance Science Part 1
• Fragrance Science Part 2: Ingredients
• What Makes Some Perfumes Last So Long