Marci’s Enymatic Inquiry: My esthetician told me about Babor’s Intelli-zyme and highly recommended that I try it. She says it’s great because it uses natural enzymes that target only dead skin cells and leave living skin cells alone. Can this really work? The Right Brain’s Catalytic Comments:
As a matter of fact, enzymes can cause very specific reactions. But let`s start at the beginning…
What Is An Enzyme?
Enzymes are chemicals that speed up the rate of chemical reactions without themselves being consumed in the reaction. They`re incredibly useful in biological processes because they can make a reaction that normally requires dangerously high temperatures occur at normal body temperatures. Basically, without enzymes we`d all be dead.
The particular enzyme used in the Babor product is Subtilisin, which is produced by soil bacterium (Bacillus amyloliquefaciens). It`s used in the food industry as a meat tenderizer because it catalyzes the breakdown of proteins, in particular keratin protein, into smaller pieces called peptides.
Can Enzymes Really Work on just Dead Cells?
The upper layer of your skin (aka the stratum corneum) is made mostly of dead keratin cells. Subtilisin very specifically breaks down keratin protein and by lysing, or breaking, the 10-end peptide bonds of keratin. Since the living cells deeper in your skin don`t contain much, if any, keratin, they are left unaffected by the enzyme. So yes, Subtilisin will break down the dead skin instead of the living cells.
So Does Babor Intelli-zyme Really Work?
Does it really work? In theory, yes. According to a report in Dermatologic Surgery, Subtilisin and related enzymes can be effective exfoliants. And they can be more gentle than other methods of exfoliation like dermabrasion. (Read our previous post on home microdermabrasion here.) However, knowing that enzymes are very tricky beasts, it very much depends on the final formula. The wrong pH and the enzyme is worthless.
The Beauty Brains Bottom Line:
There is real science that says Babor Intelli-zime could improve skin condition. But only you can decide if it`s worth almost 100 bucks to try it out. Gee, I wish they gave free samples.
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To remain functional, enzyme typically need to be stored at specific temperatures or they can become ineffective (denatured). I have a hard time believing this stuff is stored as such.
The Left Brain raises a very important issue I neglected to comment on. I didn’t look into the temperature stability of the enzyme that Babor is using. Even MORE reason to be cautious about spending $100!
Regarding the temperature, I’ve made assays with other serine proteases and they work well at 37C. However, our solution stocks are stored at -20C, and they are only considered reliable for 30 days. In powder form it can be stored in the fridge. Regarding pH, Subtilisin is active in basic conditions. Enzymes are very finicky and before paying the $100 I would personally *make sure* they didn’t make any obvious mistake.
In the accompanying photo, is that a Dalek (which would actually be saying “exterminate”)? Beauty Brains, the scope of your cultural literacy truly is vast!
More women should take the time to find out what substances are supposed to do and how they interact with the skin, before they plunk down goo gobs of money.
Once you know what a substance is you can probably find it listed in the ingredients of something a bit less expensive, or get the same effect using something found in your kitchen!.
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