A comment from a salon operator who’s concerned about L’Oreal buying Pureology: I just noticed that the first ingredient listed in the Pureology shampoos and conditioners is now water. It`s crazy how L’Oreal buys them and the first thing they do is “water down” the product (but not the price). My clients loved that there was no water in the products because they so concentrated. They really liked the first ingredient listed being certified botanical extracts. I guess I’ll have to switch my Pureology clients over to something else because it’s no longer unique.
The Left Brain responds:
I certainly can’t tell you what products you should recommend for your clients, but as a scientist I do want to help you understand the science of what you’re selling.
Small companies can be sneaky
The old Pureology shampoos and conditioners are good, although over-priced, products. But just because the first ingredient is a botanical blend instead of water doesn’t mean the products are more concentrated. And it certainly doesn’t mean the products didn’t contain any water!
What it really means is that Pureology was a small independent salon company, and they chose not to strictly follow the cosmetic labeling laws. Many small companies use this trick of listing extracts first, thus making it look like they don’t have any water. Don’t fall for it! It’s one of the oldest tricks in this industry and it’s misleading and unfair. The formula is still mostly water!
Unfortunately, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and other agencies that fight this kind of consumer fraud are too busy with more serious issues and don’t have time to chase after small companies who are tricking consumers with these kind of labeling lies.
Bigger companies follow the law
Since L’Oreal is a much bigger company they tend to play by the rules that all the big companies are held to. In the end, this is better for the consumer because you’re getting more truth. Instead of being upset with L’Oreal, you should be thankful that they’re labeling the products honestly.
And by the way, since L’Oreal has a much larger research staff than Pureology, any formula changes they made are probably for the better!
The Beauty Brains Bottom Line:
As we’ve said many times, if you like a product and you can afford it, buy it. But if you’re buying a product because of hype you hear from the company that sells it, you’re being fooled. Save your money and buy something less expensive!
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Thank you so much for this information! I never realized that smaller companies often don’t follow labeling rules–how naive I was! I will never again make the snap judgment about larger companies watering down a product the minute they acquire it.
Sharon: We’re proud of you for keeping an open mind about this. So many women get tricked by all the hype from salon brands and we just hate to see that. Thanks for being part of the Beauty Brains community!
Well said!! I actually work for a small company that was purchased by L’Oreal – and many of the changes that we have had to make to existing formulas were done to be in accordance with labeling laws and to source ingredients that had long and strong safety records from suppliers known for quality, testing, and business practices. I was actually (pleasantly) surprised at how much the large beauty brands investigate suppliers – it makes us a nightmare to work with, but it makes for safer, more consistent products for customers.
I have found that the ingredients in the salon/drugstore brands are pretty much the same. After all, how many different ingredients can you put in shampoo. I color my hair and there is not one that holds the color better than any other. The color has a lot of red in it. The only way to keep it from fading is to where a baseball hat when I’m outside.
But, if anyone has any suggestions I am open to them. My only problem is that I am out of work at the moment, so if they are inexpensive it will help.
Michelle
The FDA doesn’t regulate the cosmetic industry besides color additives and blacklisted ingredients, so L’Oreal, just like other companies, can basically put what they want in the ingredients list within reason. The original post wasn’t so much about labeling as it was to L’Oreal’s history of buying manufacturers and subsequentely changing the formula, cheapening the products, and signigicantly decreasing it’s effectiveness (but they don’t change the MSRP)
L’Oreal follows the labeling conventions of the CTFA (Cosmetics Toiletries & Fragrance Association). To remain a respected member of this organization, they have to and they do.
What products have they bought and made significantly less effective?
Being a member of this association doesn’t mean they are govenrned by the FDA nor anyone in the cosmetics industry.
Now including Pureology, you can add Pure Hair, Artec, and Aveda to the list.
water in the product is the least of my concern, what about the three parabens listed? And what is hiding in the fragrance? I have never really believed Pureology about the absence of sulfates either. Loreal , after all is under the P&G umbrella. As stylists we need to stay educated to harmful inredients. WE USE THEM ALL DAY EVERY DAY NOT JUST ONCE.
L’Oreal and P&G are not the same company. They are competitors.
I just bought the new line of pureology called the hydrate system. i have very dry hair and i flat iron it every day. it is also very thick. is pureology no longer as good as it was say…maybe 2 years ago? i heard L’OREL bought it out and now it is no longer as good. is that true?