DesignerGrl’s dilemma: I know that vitamin C is unstable in cosmetics, and that stable sources are very expensive. So I was wondering: I have Citric Acid in my spice collection — I use it to make Mozzarella. Could I sprinkle a little into a dab of my moisturizer before applying it? Could I make my own Vitamin C exfoliating treatment (avoiding eye area, of course)? What other DIY exfoliating peels could I make at home? Thanks!
The Left Brain performs a (Vitamin) C-section: 
First of all, VItamin C is found in ascorbic acid, not citric acid. So you can save your spice. Second, in most cases, I don’t really believe that Do It Yourself cosmetics offer any advantages over “store bought” products. But in the case of Vitamin C, I just might make an exception.
Vitamin C: an effective wrinkle fighter
As with retinoids, there’s research that suggests VItamin C really does have a beneficial effect on skin, in particular with regards to wrinkle reduction. If you want to learn more, follow this link for a good summary of Vitamin C’s anti-aging properties.
You correctly pointed out that the problem with Vitamin C is that it’s unstable. That’s because it’s such a good antioxidant that it reacts with any oxygen it comes in contact with. This isn’t a problem for the ingredient in its pure form because it isn’t in solution. But once it’s dissolved in water it becomes more reactive so it’s unstable in the formula over time. Some research says that it only lasts a few weeks so by the time the product goes from the manufacturer, to the store where it’s sold, to your house, the active Vitamin C in the product may be used up before you ever open the jar. Another problem with Vitamin C as an active ingredient is that it works at a very low pH (around 2.5) which can be irritating to the skin.
Ways to make Vitamin C work better
Look for stable versions
There are a couple of ways to make Vitamin C work better. One approach is to use derivatives of ascorbic acid like ascorbyl phosphate or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, that are more stable and potentially less irritating.
Lose the water
You can also get rid of water to increase the Vitamin C stability. This approach improves stability and lowers irritation but it also increases the cost compared to water stabilized formulas. For example, silicones are expensive but make good anhydrous delivery vehicles for Vitamin C. Some research also suggests that combining more stable esters in anhydrous base can provide the best of both worlds.
Do It Yourself
A third way is to add Vitamin C yourself. This allows you to limit how long the Vitamin C is exposed to oxygen so you ensure it’s “fresh.” Be careful, however, because you may experience increased skin irritation with high levels of ascorbic acid. But if this approach appeals to you, you can learn the details of how to chose a base and add your own Vitamin C in this report from Smartskincare.com.
What do YOU think? Have you ever made your own Vitamin C products? Would you go through the trouble if it really helped your skin? Leave a comment and let the Beauty Brains “C” what you think about Vitamin C.
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faux Says:
hey brainz,
when i worked in the produce department at a vegetarian health food store many years ago, i had an elderly black customer who always asked me for the rotting lemons i was discarding. One day, i finally asked her what she did with them.
she told me she kept them in a crock underneath her bathroom sink and twice a day scooped a handful of the goo and slathered it on her face as her mother had taught her. she had the most impressive skin i had ever seen on an octogenarian.
do you think this is a coincidence?
thanks!
(oh and y’all rock)
Janis Says:
So my question is, can I just buy Vit-C tablets, mash them up with a little water, smear them on, wipe them off, and that’s it? If that’s all it takes, I don’t have to worry about mixing them with foundation or makeup, which I by and large never wear.
I’ve got to read up on this a bit more, apparently.
thebeautybrains Says:
Rotting lemons? Probably a coincidence but who knows? If a person goes through that much trouble to care for their skin, they probably also do other things like stay out of the sun and regularly moisturize that also helps the skin.
Janis,
That’s pretty much what we’re saying.
Cho Says:
I’m glad that I saw this article b/c there’s a question that I’ve been wanting to ask w/ regards to Vitamin C. I currently use Obagi’s Vit C line and I love it. However, my mom’s just come back from Korea w/ a new homemade concoction that concerns me. She slices lemons and puts them in a jar w/ soju ( a clear korean liquor) and she says that she’s going to let it sit for a month in the fridge and use it on her face. Apparantly, she learned this from my aunt and her skin is amazing (of course). This sounds like it would be very very irritating and dangerous. Do I need to be concerned and maybe secretly throw it out?
Susan Says:
I make my own Vit C toner using a dash Skin Actives ascorbic acid mixed with a little distilled water. I mix it up fresh every couple of days and use it after cleansing my face. Love it! You must start slowly to avoid irritation.
Girl-Woman Says:
I have been wanting to do this for some time. Thanks for the information.
Grayburn Says:
I’ve come across several recipes for vit c serums and have read how effective they are. I still can’t get the courage enough to make them myself. I also don’t want to buy them for such outrageous prices in the store! Dilemma!
Grayburn
Jean Says:
I could not believe what you have been saying about lemons. My grandmother imigated from Sicily many years ago, she was known for having sentive skin and her mother always bought her lemons. She would cut a lemon and put a piece wrapped in tissue
on her windowsill and apply it twice a day. She lived to be 100 and had very nice skin all her life. Maybe what I have been looking for I already had the answer! Will be trying this soon.
Kelly Says:
After reading this article and the comments about applying lemon juice to your face, it seems like a good treatment. I also read on wikipedia
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lemon) lemon juice can be used as an acne treatment and to bleach your skin.
However, on http://www.cosmeticscop.com they say it is a skin sentisizer and irritant.
So what’s true about lemon juice? Is it benificial to use on your face? And is it ok to use bottled lemon juice or does it have to be ‘fresh’?
(Oh and by the way, I’ve tried to ask a question by clicking on ‘ask a question’ a few times but it doesn’t work)
Kelly Says:
Oh, and I also read the fruity acids in lemon juice remove dead skin cells, is that true? Would it be just as good as the expensive BHA from Paula’s choice?
I read about it here:
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/lemon-juice-kitchen-cupboard-beauty.html