DesignerGrl’s dilemma: I know that vitamin C is unstable in cosmetics, and that stable sources are very expensive. So I was wondering: I have Citric Acid in my spice collection — I use it to make Mozzarella. Could I sprinkle a little into a dab of my moisturizer before applying it? Could I make my own Vitamin C exfoliating treatment (avoiding eye area, of course)? What other DIY exfoliating peels could I make at home? Thanks!

The Left Brain performs a (Vitamin) C-section:
First of all, VItamin C is found in ascorbic acid, not citric acid. So you can save your spice. Second, in most cases, I don’t really believe that Do It Yourself cosmetics offer any advantages over “store bought” products. But in the case of Vitamin C, I just might make an exception.

Vitamin C: an effective wrinkle fighter

As with retinoids, there’s research that suggests VItamin C really does have a beneficial effect on skin, in particular with regards to wrinkle reduction. If you want to learn more, follow this link for a good summary of Vitamin C’s anti-aging properties.

You correctly pointed out that the problem with Vitamin C is that it’s unstable. That’s because it’s such a good antioxidant that it reacts with any oxygen it comes in contact with. This isn’t a problem for the ingredient in its pure form because it isn’t in solution. But once it’s dissolved in water it becomes more reactive so it’s unstable in the formula over time. Some research says that it only lasts a few weeks so by the time the product goes from the manufacturer, to the store where it’s sold, to your house, the active Vitamin C in the product may be used up before you ever open the jar. Another problem with Vitamin C as an active ingredient is that it works at a very low pH (around 2.5) which can be irritating to the skin.

Ways to make Vitamin C work better

Look for stable versions
There are a couple of ways to make Vitamin C work better. One approach is to use derivatives of ascorbic acid like ascorbyl phosphate or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, that are more stable and potentially less irritating.

Lose the water

You can also get rid of water to increase the Vitamin C stability. This approach improves stability and lowers irritation but it also increases the cost compared to water stabilized formulas. For example, silicones are expensive but make good anhydrous delivery vehicles for Vitamin C. Some research also suggests that combining more stable esters in anhydrous base can provide the best of both worlds.

Do It Yourself

A third way is to add Vitamin C yourself. This allows you to limit how long the Vitamin C is exposed to oxygen so you ensure it’s “fresh.” Be careful, however, because you may experience increased skin irritation with high levels of ascorbic acid. But if this approach appeals to you, you can learn the details of how to chose a base and add your own Vitamin C in this report from Smartskincare.com.

What do YOU think? Have you ever made your own Vitamin C products? Would you go through the trouble if it really helped your skin? Leave a comment and let the Beauty Brains “C” what you think about Vitamin C.