Sofie searches for science: Thanks for running this blog and speaking so clearly about cosmetic chemistry! Having been here for a while, I thought to de-lurk and ask a question. While doing some research and looking around to figure out a better way to take care of my rather coarse, frizzy, curly hair, I came across the Curl Conscious shampoo for thick hair from Bumble & Bumble. They claim that their product contains an enzyme transglutaminase which is supposed to ”cross-link two amino acids in the hair to form stable, heat- and humidity-resistant bonds.” Sounds like exotic-speak for the purpose of shaking out people’s wallets to me, especially considering that amino acids have to already be chemically bonded to each other to make hair protein, but wanted to make sure whether my hunch is right or not.
The Left Brain leads the way
Thanks for your kind words about our blog, Sofie. And I agree that Bumble and Bumble’s claims do sound highly implausible. To find out why, let’s take a look at the science behind transglutamase.
The truth about transglutamase
Transglutamase (or TG) is a type of enzyme that can react with biological tissues. It is involved in the chemical reactions that cross link proteins in hair and skin. Industrially speaking it is perhaps best known for its ability to act as a “meat glue” to improve the texture of processed meat products. It can even be used to create a “meat dress” as pictured above.
Does it have any application in hair care? Yes, in fact, US Patent 6267957 “Attaching Agents to Tissue with Transglutaminase and a Transglutaminase” by Green et. al., discusses the possibility of using TG to alter the structure of hair.
Can Curl Conscious reshape hair?
There are essentially two possible mechanisms by which TG could reshape hair: it could react directly with hair by altering its shape (from straight to wavy or wavy to straight). Or, it could bond thickening or bulking agents to the hair to thicken each individual hair fiber. However, based on its mode of action, it seems very unlikely that TG will have an effect on hair from a shampoo.
The first mechanism seems unlikely because reshaping requires that the hair be held in place in it’s new configuration while the chemical reaction is taking place. (Think of how a permanent wave works: the hair just doesn’t magically become curly, you have to wrap it around a curler of some kind.) The second mechanism doesn’t seem any more realistic because the shampoo is missing other chemicals that are required for that reaction to take place (you can read the patent link above for more details.)
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Curl Conscious may be a perfectly fine shampoo but it appears highly unlikely that the inclusion of transglutamase will have a significant effect on hair structure. My guess is that Bumble and Bumble is making a claim based on what TG can do, not necessarily what it actually does do in their formula. Of course, if they can provide test data showing their shampoo does reshape hair, I’d be happy to reconsider my position.
What do YOU think? Has anyone in the Beauty Brains community tried Curl Conscious? Or better yet, has anyone ever worn a meat dress?
{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }
Oh yay! Meat dress!
What about Bumble & Bumble’s leave-in products containing transglutamase? My stylist put some of the brand’s Curl Conscious products in my straight hair and “curled” it by scrunching it with her hands as she dried it. Does the addition of TG make these products more effective than others for forcing and keeping straight hair in a curled shape?
Well, that would be great…. Reshaping hair
I have used the BB Curl Conscious shampoo for a weeks and love it. I honestly could see the difference (it relaxed my curl pattern) during the first use! I will continue to test it though as, my curls become less and less defined after each use . That might not be a bad thing for some, but I happen to love my curly hair. For the moment, I am enjoying how this product help to tame my natural curl. By the way, I am African American and have a few different types of curl textures.
As a professional hair stylist I hear these types of questions and concerns regularly. Of course a shampoo is not going to alter the curl pattern of your hair but it is going to help eliminate some of the issues that prevent your hair from looking desirable, like eliminating frizz or adding moisture to prevent split ends. I work at an exclusive Bumble and Bumble salon and am very familiar with the product line. These types of products are meant to be used together not individually. Each one plays a different role. Such as the shampoo removes build up and prepares the hair for other products. The conditioner provides moisture and deposits important agents. The curl activating cream, I would say, is the most important product for achieving that naturally curly look because it’s what actually contains all of the agents that will form your curl and set it while your hair dries. Followed by the holding foam which provides a little more hold while still working to maintain than curl. The curl reactivating mist is designed to reactivate the ingredients throughout the day or when you wake up the next day and don’t want to wash your hair. Simply spray the reactivating mist, scrunch and go. Transglutaminase is an ingredient used in bonding meats. In these products it is used to act as a protein filler to fill in the cuticle that is lifted where the hair bends naturally. This ingredient has nothing to do with forming curls in the hair. It’s sole purpose is to fill in the cuticle to create a smooth curl rather than a frizzy, dry, unruly curl. If your looking for control in your hair, a simple shampoo is not going to be a solution. Keep in mind, shampoos are designed to lift out unwanted things from your hair(dirt, oil, product build up, chlorine, medications, etc). Conditioners are designed to deposit ingredients(moisture, protein, vitamins, silicone). Styling products are the most important for changing the pattern of curl either from straight or curly. They fill in the cuticle and help to create the desired look while the hair dries. For best results use the entire curl line together. Each product plays a different role in achieving the look you want.