Pas71 is perplexed: How does oil free moisturizer work?
The Right Brain replies:
Pas’ question came to us as comment in our recent post on our post on Which Is A Better Moisturizer: Oil or Water? and we thought it would make an excellent follow-up post.
Ordinary oil
According to Wikipedia, an oil is defined as follows:
An oil is a substance that is in a viscous liquid state (“oily”) at ambient temperatures or slightly warmer, and is both hydrophobic (immiscible with water) and lipophilic (miscible with other oils, literally). This general definition includes compound classes with otherwise unrelated chemical structures, properties, and uses, including vegetable oils, petrochemical oils, and volatile essential oils. Oil is a nonpolar substance.
Functionally speaking, oil moisturizes skin by forming a barrier that prevents water from evaporating. Typical oils used include mineral oil, and various animal and vegetable derived oils like olive oil, coconut oil, and even shark liver oil and emu oil. These materials all fit the above definition because they are long chain hydrocarbons that are liquid at room temperature, they don’t mix with water and they do mix with other oils.
Anti-oil
So what about oil-free products? For an example, lets look at the ingredients in Neutrogena Oil Free Moisture
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isodecyl Laurate, Laurate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Dimethicone, Trisiloxane, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pantothenic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Bisabolol, Acrylates/C10 30 Alkyl Acrylates, Sodium Hydroxide, Blue 1, Red 40, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Fragrance
You’ll notice that there no mention of any kind of oil – hence the product is “oil-free.” However, you will see ingredients with similar properties that are not technically oils. Hydrogenated polyisobutene, isodecyl laurate, dimethicone and trisiloxane function the same way as an oil – they occlude the skin to seal in moisture. But they aren’t defined as true oils because they don’t mix with other lipophilic materials. So, the product can claim to be oil free. That’s how oil free moisturizers work: they use non-oil ingredients to deliver the same benefit as oils.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Is this a scam? Not really. Some people are looking for formulas that do not contain specific ingredients, like mineral oil. Oil-free is one way to draw consumers attention to that. Other people feel that products containing oils are too heavy or greasy for their skin. Oil free formulations are intended to solve that problem.
What do YOU think? Do you oil free is an important quality to look for in your beauty care products? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
Nice discussion.Thnks.
Thanks!
This is a great skincare topic.
Glycerin (which is listed as a top ingredient in the Neutrogena Oil Free Moisture) is formulated with oil, and it is also considered a humectant, or moisturizing product.
I find it a bit odd that they are obviously using forms of oils, but are labeling themselves as “oil-free” for marketing purposes. I agree with you that it does help consumers sift through the skincare products to avoid specific heavy oils (like mineral oil or lanolin).
I look forward to hearing what everyone else has to say!
Mythbuster beauty< I’m not quite sure I understand what your saying. How can a single ingredient (glycerin) be formulated with anything?
Great informative post, if a little over my head with all the sciencey terms
I do have a question though: what ingredients then should one avoid if one wishes to use oil-free products, and are non-oil-free products actually “bad” for those with oily skin?
What is the reason for avoiding mineral oil in topically-applied products? Is there something that passes through the skin that is not desirable? Is it a good policy not to apply anything to the skin that you would not be willing to swallow?
Mineral oil does not penetrate the skin or enter your body that way, so that is not the concern. There really is no reason to avoid mineral oil on topically applied products unless you are allergic to it or don’t like the feel.
I think what Mythbuster is referring to is the fact that glycerin is derived from various vegetable oils. Glycerine itself though does not meet the definition of an oil because it isn’t miscible with other oils. It water soluble and quite hygroscopic (attracts water) which is why it is such a popular ingredient in moisturizers.
On a personal note, I think oil-free is marketing BS. Everyone’s face produces oil – everyone’s whole body produces oil! Some oils are comedogenic, some are oppressively occlusive, and some just feel gross but there are plenty that are non-comedogenic, light, and feel wonderful. I think the category of “Oils” has really gotten a bum rap.
msgotrox
“there are plenty that are non-comedogenic, light, and feel wonderful”
could you give me some exemples? (or even some products that contain them) i am using glycerin as moisturizer, because i have quite oily skin (and acne, if i don´t treat it well), but i could do with a few tips…
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