Are Animal Cosmetic Ingredients Still Used?

by Left Brain on October 21, 2008 · 13 comments

Nicola needs to know…Is it true that rendering plants sell animal by-products for use in cosmetics?

Left Brain Illuminates:
It has always amused me that people will gleefully eat steak, lobster, and fried chicken, but are appalled to imagine animal ingredients would be used in their cosmetics. What do they think should happen to the inedible parts that come from food production? Just be deposited in landfills and allowed to rot?  I’m sincerely curious.

Animal Ingredients in Cosmetics

But enough of that.  To answer your question, YES, it is true that there are still some animal ingredients used in cosmetics. Their use is not nearly as prevalent as fringe cosmetic companies like Arbonne would suggest, but they are still in there.

For a big list of possible animal ingredients used in cosmetics, see this one put together by PETA. We’re not endorsing this list as gospel, but a brief review found it covered most ingredients you’d likely find. Of course, in true fashion of a fearmongering group, it also includes sketchy information including ingredients you won’t find anymore. Also, it lists animal-derived ingredients like Honey, Milk, and Lanolin without mentioning that these materials are gotten without harming animals.

Major Cosmetic Animal Ingredients

The truth is that most companies now go out of their way to avoid using animal ingredients.  Any minor cost savings achieved by using animal based ingredients is vastly off-set by the PR nightmare generated by groups like PETA and EWG. Also, real governmental regulations about Mad Cow Disease (BSE) have prompted companies to mostly use alternatives. But you’ll still find some animal ingredients.  The following are the most common.

Collagen

What is it? Collagen is a protein and the main component of connective tissue. This includes connective tissue in both humans and animals. It is also chemically modified to produce gelatin.

Why is it in my cosmetic? Collagen is primarily used in skin wrinkle creams. The collagen in your skin is naturally degraded over time due to environmental factors. Add to that your body’s own tendency to slow collagen production as you get older and you start to getting sagging, wrinkly skin. The idea behind including collagen in your skin products is that by replacing damaged collagen you can firm up your skin and reduce wrinkles.

Does it work? Collagen won’t much permanent effect on your wrinkles. At best, it will provide a temporary tightening of your skin. The idea of arbitrarily plopping collagen on your skin to fix wrinkles is like trying to fix a hole in your Lucky Jeans by dumping a pile of denim on it. It doesn’t work. See this article for what really works on wrinkles.

Alternatives – Just because a product says it has collagen in it doesn’t mean that it is using animal derived collagen. There are plant derived alternatives. They are equally as ineffective.

Elastin

What is it? Elastin is another protein important in the proper functioning of your connective tissue. It is like a rubber band that allows skin, cartilage, tendons, etc. to snap back after being stretched. As you get older it gets diminished and your skin starts to sag.

Why is it in my cosmetic? Elastin is used in skin products for the same reason as collagen. Cosmetic companies figure that if it’s in your skin naturally adding more must be good.

Does it work? Topical elastin has never been shown in a peer reviewed study to have any long-term effect on wrinkles. It suffers from the same problems as collagen. When produced inside your body by your cells, it reduces wrinkles.  When applied topically, it has minimal effect.  It’s not only the ingredient that matters but how the ingredient is applied.

Alternatives – Raw material suppliers have developed synthetic and non-animal versions of elastin.

Keratin

What is it? Keratin is another structural protein found in mammals. This is the stuff of hair, nails and horns.

Why is it in my cosmetic? Human hair is composed of keratin. When you lose keratin protein your hair is damaged. Cosmetic companies figure if you can replace that keratin with more protein, then you’ll fix your hair problems.

Does it work? While protein in general has been shown to provide some benefit when applied to hair, keratin protein in particular is not more effective than some other protein source. Applying protein to hair also suffers from the same like-on-like fallacy as collagen and elastin. More effective hair conditioning ingredients include quaternized surfactants and silicones.

Alternatives – There are non-animal derived Kertain alternatives.

Tallow

What is it? Tallow is animal fat. It contains mostly longer chain fatty acids.

Why is it in my cosmetic? Fatty acids and oils make excellent conditioning ingredients for both hair and skin products. They improve the feel and look of these surfaces.

Does it work? Yes. Tallow derived ingredients actually will make your skin and hair feel better. But you can get these same fatty acids from plant oils like sunflower, soybean, etc. The animal derived ingredients don’t provide much added benefit.

Alternatives – Soybean oil and other plant derived oils.

Beauty Brains bottom line

While there are ingredients used in cosmetics that come from animals, the industry has mostly moved to using suitable alternatives. There are few, if any, animal derived ingredients that don’t have some suitable, plant or synthetic replacement.   Just looking at the ingredient list to determine if it has an animal ingredient is not going to tell you much.  Synthetic collagen is not labeled any differently than animal-derived collagen.

Do animal derived ingredients in your cosmetics bother you? What do you think should be done with the stuff left over from the food processing industry? Leave a comment and let the rest of the Beauty Brains community know.

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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

notedscholar October 21, 2008 at 10:36 am

And little do they know, when they eat meat they are *still* putting it on the outside of their body, because as everyone knows the inside of the mouth is continuous with the outside skin. Yep.

Janis October 21, 2008 at 12:43 pm

It’s funny how people always give you guys flack for playing up typical, evil-bad-bad cosmetic ingredients and slamming “natural” and vegan-type stuff … and here you just spent a post going over four animal products previously used by Big Business, and your verdict was “nope-nope-nope-sort of.”

I guess the truth is that most things in cosmetics and personal care products simply don’t work — natural OR synthetic.

Eugene October 21, 2008 at 3:49 pm

Now everyone is talking about the American economy and eclections, nice to read something different. Eugene

thebeautybrains October 21, 2008 at 5:18 pm

There are things that work in cosmetics. But ingredients like Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, & Titanium Dioxide don’t make nearly as interesting stories.

Janis October 21, 2008 at 5:45 pm

Mostly because they don’t change constantly. :-) I think everyone knows what works and what doesn’t, and it’s been the same for years — which is the problem. You can’t package “same old same old” as a huge new breakthrough. :-) which is why it all boils down to new packaging, new color, new fragrance …

Ali October 25, 2008 at 9:59 pm

Well, in all fairness, I think the people who “gleefully eat steak, lobster, and fried chicken” are NOT the ones who are worried about the animal byproducts. (re: Left Brain’s Response). Most people who want to know about animal parts in products are vegan or vegetarian, and it’s a fair question for that reason.

Vegans and vegetarians can’t win. If we don’t ask, we are labeled as hypocrites, or at best inconsistent. If we do ask, we are viewed as up-tight or obsessive.

All this being said, and since we are talking about consistency, it is virtually impossible to find a company that either a) doesn’t test on animals; b) pay other companies for their results for testing on animals; or c) is owned by a larger multinational that does a) and/or b).

susan October 30, 2008 at 2:48 pm

A point that I think is important is that animals aren’t being killed solely for their collagen or elastin – these compounds are byproducts. It seems better to use all the animal than to kill it, take its skeletal muscle, then discard its collagen, fat, etc. The presence of animal byproducts in cosmetics shouldn’t bother carnivores. And by the same reasoning, it makes total sense to me that vegans and vegetarians would protest.

Ashley November 19, 2008 at 7:01 am

I worked in the meat department at a grocery store for a few years and every week someone would pick up all the meat and fat from trimmings we had and there was always at least several hundred pounds of it. And that’s just from one week at one store. Why shouldn’t people make use of it?

Michelle Sullivan March 20, 2009 at 9:39 am

I take offense that you would say that Arbonne suggests that the problem with animal by-products is a bigger issue than it actually is. Did you read this on the website somewhere? I think not…the products are simply certified vegan. Do you look down on this? It sounds like an individual consultant made an exaggeration. “Blogs” like this loose credibility when they bad mouth companies and have no facts to back it up.

Caleb August 20, 2009 at 10:13 am

Vegans protest the killing of animals for meat, therefore they are not ok with the “leftovers” and want nothing to do with them in products, period. Not hard to understand. I don’t know anyone that is grossed out by animal products in cosmetics that is ok eating any and all animal by-products as you assume.

Also, you are making a BOLD BOLD statement by implying that milk is taken from the animal without harming it – could you elaborate on that for all the people who actually beleive what you say? Apparently you have lots and lots to learn about the dairy industry.

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