Designer 856 asks…I have been hearing a lot about the manufacturing process of ethoxylation using the petrochemical ethylene oxide. Can you explain what that entails? I’ve read this process can also result in a trace contaminant called 1,4-Dioxane, a known carcinogen. If a company is using ethoxylated ingredients, but tests for and removes any present 1,4-Dioxane then is there any other reason that use of such ingredients may be questioned by consumers looking for more natural products?
The Left Brain responds:
Ethoxylation is the process of chemically reacting ethylene oxide with fatty acids (or other hydrocarbons) to make them more water soluble. In cosmetics, hydrocarbons are good for making hair and skin feel smooth, soft and in better condition. But hydrocarbons don’t mix with water (think of separated salad dressing). So, chemists ethoxylate the compounds making them more water soluble. Some consumers (especially those that are interested in using natural products) are concerned that anything that has been ethoxylated contains 1,4 Dioxane and is therefore dangerous.
Dioxane danger
They’re partially right: No matter how well you try to remove 1,4 Dioxane there will always be a trace level left. But it comes down to a matter of the dose. Many things cause cancer and health problems but are perfectly fine in low enough doses. There has never been any evidence suggesting that ethoxylated compounds in cosmetics cause cancer. Based on science, there is no reason to avoid compounds just because they have been ethoxylated.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Even “natural” products will contain carcinogens at trace levels. These things are in our environment. They are impossible to completely avoid.
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
The EPA (report #123-91-1)considers 1,4-Dioxane a Carcinogen Group 2B because, while there is evidence of induced cancer in animal testing, there is none to humans from the 3 epidemology studies done with humans. Also, the route of exposure is important. (For example water is nice if you drink it but not that nice through your nose, ie, waterboarding.)
In cleansers, 1,4-Dioxane forms an azeotrope with water at about 95 C. So, you will die from hot water exposure, rather than by inhaling 1,4-Dioxane from your shower gel or shampoo.
You are right in that you cannot avoid toxins in this world. We can only hope to make good product choices so as to reduce them.