Is Brazilian Keratin Straightening Safe?

by thebeautybrains on December 21, 2009

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HLBrown asks…My hairdresser swears by a process called the “Brazilian Blowout,” saying it can actually change and rebuild the hair’s structure. A shampoo is first applied which removes all build-up. Then the solution, using the solution by Brazilian Blowout is applied all over the hair with a comb. The hair is then flat-ironed to “bake in” the treatment. Once entirely flat-ironed, the solution is washed out with Brazilian Blowout shampoo and a deep conditioning cream conditioned is left in for 5 minutes.  Could this $300 + in chair treatment make the hair healthier?

The Left Brain responds:

The Blowout sounds like another name for the so-called Brazilian Keratin Straightening process which uses a high concentration of formaldehyde (or similar compounds) in combination with flat ironing to restructure hair.

Does it work?

Does it make your hair healthier? Well, it certainly makes it straighter. (Did you read our post on 7 Ways To Get Straighter Hair?) And as I pointed out in our Forum, the reason hair looks shinier after one of these treatments is because the hair is straighter.  Straighter hair has less curves, reflects light better, and thus looks shinier.  Straightened hair also feels softer and smoother because the cuticles are flattened down.  A rough feel is a result of uplifted cuticles.

The treatment doesn’t actually re-build hair in the way that is implied (or directly claimed).  The protein structure of a hair fiber is much more complicated than a simple straightening iron + hair treatment could ever reconstruct.  It would be like trying to fix a hole in a blouse by putting it in a waffle iron with yarn and glue.  You might cover the hole but you certainly haven’t “rebuilt” the purse.

Is it safe?

The problem with this process is safety. While low levels of formaldehyde don’t pose any problems, exposure to high levels has been linked to health problems, including cancer.  Unfortunately, this is exactly the scenario that the Brazilian kits promote – the heat of the flat iron vaporizes the formaldehyde and exposes you to unacceptably high levels of the gas.

In the UK, the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfume Association recently reported that some products contain up to 10% formaldehyde (the limit under the UK Cosmetic Products Safety Regulations is only 0.2%). They’ve posted a warning on their website www.thefactsabout.co.uk to inform the public that there are legal, safe limits of formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde and glyoxal that are allowed in cosmetic products and that some ‘Brazilian’ hair treatments may use dangerous levels of these chemicals.

What do YOU think? Would you use a risky product to get straighter hair? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Nster.com

{ 25 comments… read them below or add one }

Pedro December 21, 2009 at 1:09 am

Brazilian Keratin Straightening with more than 0.2% of formaldehyde is NOT allowed here in Brazil. So, “Brazilian” is just the name…

Jami December 21, 2009 at 7:47 am

Um, girls, I think maybe you shouldn’t blog before coffee. There’s one little sentence that doesn’t make sense.

It would be like trying to fix a hole in a blouse by putting it in a waffle iron with yarn and glue. You might cover the hole but you certainly haven’t “rebuilt” the purse.

I didn’t know a waffle iron had the magical properties of turning a blouse into a purse.

I’ll never understand why women want straight hair anyway. Curly always looks so much better.

Mid Brain December 21, 2009 at 9:46 am

@Jami: Good catch. And the Left Brain gives ME crap about sloppy editing!

Lee December 22, 2009 at 9:26 am

Note to Pedro: while Brazilian law may limit the use of formaldehyde at 0.2%, this is not necessarily respected by manufacturers and salon owners. Case in point: the 27 year old woman in Brazil who suffered severe respiratory difficulties and cardiac arrest while she was waiting out the 3 days before she could wash her hair. Much higher doses of formadehyde were found in the product used on her hair. Hopefully after this tragedy the 0.2% limit is truly being respected.

How about the Coppola Keratin Treatment, Keratinology and other systems manufactured in the US which claim to contain no formaldehyde? Are they safe? Can they damage the hair? I’ve seen the results and they are remarkable. Even if these products don’t truly repair damaged hair (what does?), hair looks great, dries quickly and is easy to manage.

britishbeautyblogger December 22, 2009 at 3:31 pm

Wonder if you can tell me where keratin in keratin treatments comes from…have heard various stories – that it’s whizzed up hair thats infused into your own hair, and then maybe its lab made keratin or keratin taken from sheep’s wool. I have never been able to find a definitive answer. I was concerned in case it is made from human hair.

bella blu December 24, 2009 at 11:21 am

As a fellow blogger I have to say I love your site, and this post is exactly why.
I want to say so many things I don’t know where to start…

First the original piece. Formaldehyde – Yes it’s dangerous, but it’s nowhere near as prevalent as people think. The solution is to ask questions. If you’re buying online get the supplier to give you the ingredients, and if you’re having the treatment applied in a salon or by a pro take a look at the bottle. Check what it contains and if you see the dreaded F-word, walk away.

It’s not neccersary for the Keratin to be activated. It used to be the only chemical that worked with Keratin to form an emulsion which can be easily absorbed by hair. Nowadays there are many alternatives and here in Brazil the use of Formaldehyde is virtually non existant, except in certain relaxing products.

New products, known as Escova Progressiva, or Brazilian Blowout, include Zene Progress (http://escovaprogress.com/default.aspx) the country’s best selling Keratin hair straightener, are completely Formaldehyde free and work every bit as well, if not better, than earlier formulas.

Next up, Lee’s comments… Is s/he seriously suggesting that manufacturers illegally mix in extra Formaldehyde to boost the effectiveness of their products? I’m sorry, but as somebody who works with Brazilian hair products I can personally assure her (or him) that this country is pretty strict on these sort of things.
As for the story about the woman, does he have a link? I’d like to see that one, because Formaldehyde is not easy to come by here.

Finally to British Beauty Blogger and the origins of Keratin. Generally it’s taken from the boiled bones of dead babies.
No seriously, it’s extracted from sheep wool, which contains higher levels of the naturally occuring chemical than most animals and, incidently, human hair too.

OK. That’s it. Happy Christmas all and a prosperous new year.
Keep up the good work and let’s swap links.

Love from the beach,
BB

Matie December 24, 2009 at 4:27 pm

Hi, I wrote this article a long ago about the process of Keratin and its benefits, as well as the myth on the use of formaldehyde. What do you think?

http://www.squidoo.com/BenefitsBrazilianKeratinTreatmentHair

Sydne December 25, 2009 at 10:40 pm

I just launched a website and have been meaning to write a post about this treatment. I had it done about six months ago. I wasn’t very knowledgeable on the process but can tell you a bit about my experience.

First of all, the texture of my hair really did improve. Not only was it straighter, but it seemed much healthier than before. It was softer and I had fewer split ends. Yes, some of this may be the cause of the increased straightness, but, when I straightened my hair before and used a flat iron it was nowhere near as healthy as it is now.

It has actually lasted for about four months which has been great.

On to the negatives, as I was getting the treatment done, I knew it was bad. The chemicals stung my eyes so badly I had to keep them shut. That is definitely not good and the chemicals were so harsh that my head actually peeled about three days after the treatment. Knowing what I do now about these types of toxins, I will never go through that again. BUT, I have heard of a few healthier options that do just as good of a job and am excited to look into them further as I loved the outcome of the treatment. My “get ready” time decreased by about thirty minutes!

Let me know if anyone knows of something specific they would recommend.

Thanks and Merry XMAS!!

Sydne

britishbeautyblogger January 7, 2010 at 2:19 pm

Thanks for the response regarding the origins of Keratin…I’ve already linked you to my site – for over a year….love your site and am regular reader! JX

Keratin May 31, 2010 at 11:43 pm

My question ?

-Is this treatment a relaxer ?
-Can you do the treatment after coloring?

thank you so much .

Brazilian Blowout Specialist Jordana Lorraine June 25, 2010 at 11:00 am

Brazilian Blowout is a brand name; it is one keratin treatment among at least a dozen. Brazilian Blowout is formaldehyde-free, while some others do contain varying levels, but it is important to distinguish between different brands. Not only are the ingredients different, but the process, and the results. Brazilian Blowout leaves more body in the hair than any other, and curlier clients have the option of keeping their curls or wearing it wavy, while some other keratin treatments make the hair quite straight. Brazilian Blowout slowly fades away as your roots grow in, while a strong/straighter treatment will remain so and your roots will grow in curly. Brazilian Blowout takes 90 minutes to two hours, and you have no “downtime” to wait before you can wash your hair or hit the gym; some other treatments can take up to 4 hours, and make you wait 1-4 days before you can wash your hair or wear a ponytail.

Consider how subjective the term “brown leather purse” can be; the thickness and quality of the leather, the depth and tone of the color, the quality of craftsmanship.

Brazilian Blowout DOES improve the quality of the hair, even if temporarily (3-5 months.) It works much like a ridge filler does to even out a nail that has been damaged, then polish and a topcoat are smoother and shinier. Or how many of us put primer on under our foundation, to fill in fine lines and keep the make-up on our face smooth. Then it is ‘laminated’ onto the hair using the flat iron, making it last several months. It also helps the condition of the hair because once someone has it, they use far less heat for far less time, to style their hair, which as we all know can really take a toll on it.

Another bonus: The protective layer of keratin strengthens the hair and guess what at means? It prevents split ends from breaking off! Many of my clients marvel that they feel their hair grows faster after having a Brazilian Blowout, and I have found the same. It couldn’t possibly make it grow faster, which is confirmed by the color showing at the roots at the same pace, but if your ends aren’t breaking off, you are retaining more of your growth and therefore it will seem it is growing faster.

As for the safety, as with any chemical service (especially a relatively new one), it is important to choose your stylist carefully. Using too much product or having improper ventilation can cause overwhelming fumes, while using too much heat can damage your hair. Learn about the stylist’s training and experience, research them on sites like Google, Citysearch and Yelp to see client reviews, ask for a consultation and before/after photos. And if you’ve researched and are looking for a specific brand, make sure they’re using that brand; unfortunately, there is a good deal of false advertising/bait and switch out there in which a salon or stylist offers you a popular brand name but is truly using something different.

I am a big fan of these treatments! I have had 3 different kinds done on my hair, and have used 5 different kinds on clients since beginning to use them in 2008. It is my main speciality and focus, and if you’re in Southern California, please do look me up. But no matter where you are–do your homework before having a Brazilian Blowout or any other keratin treatment.

holli bezzant August 2, 2010 at 2:43 pm

I am really interested in getting back into hair straightening. All this talk about the dangers of formaldehyde is so scarey. What ones would you recommend? Obviously I am looking for a system that is safe for myself and my clients. Thank you, Holli

Julie August 3, 2010 at 8:34 pm

how can anyone say that the brazilian blowout is formaldehyde free? it isn’t…it’s banned in brazil because it has shown to damage hair after continued application as well as health, major health warnings. it’s a matter of time before it hits the states. class action lawsuits are in discussion after women have experienced their hair falling out and breaking off. not to mention worse, but i will not comment on here…yet. research is the best advice i have read here. but to say it is f-free…please don’t deceive people

Beauty wise September 13, 2010 at 2:37 pm

First off “keratin” can not straighten hair, you need a chemical agent to straighten or relax hair. Keratin has been used alone and as an ingredient in hair cosmetics for many years but alone, it does not straighten hair.

Second, to enamelize keratin into the hair a chemical delivery agent must be used that’s where formaldehyde comes in, it will enamelize keratin on to the hair. Companies that have cleverly avoided the formaldehyde issue are using a derivative such as formalin or glutaraldehyde and when heated release vaporized formaldehyde gas.

Companies such as Brazillian Blowout and Brazillian Keratin Staightening have reformulated their products and announced that their “new and improved” versions are formaldehyde free. These are the same companies that lied to us in the first place and said there was only minimal amounts of formaldehyde in their products initially.

Tell me would you believe someone who had lied to you before? Check out the PBA’s (Professional Beauty Association) website and look at the statement they issued to their members regarding keratin straighteners a while back. The other question I pose is, if these products were absolutely safe then why hasn’t any of the industry leaders rushed to create their own versions of keratin straighteners? Do you really think that L’Oreal, Proctor & Gamble or Estee Lauder couldn’t duplicate this technology and brand it as their own? There’s a very good reason none of them have, the delivery system is not safe to the consumer and especially to the stylist leaning over the vapors.

Think for yourselves, research more and don’t believe the hype, there are safe alternatives in the market place.

tesserae October 12, 2010 at 2:12 pm

I went a keratinology class and they claimed it was formaldahyde free, but im being told that it never claimed to be formaldahyde ….what’s the truth

JR October 22, 2010 at 10:34 am

I love, love, love the Beauty brains blog!!
This specific one was incredibly useful since I was looking for information to help me out in making up my mind about having a brazilian blow out or not. My conclusion is definitely NOT!! I am so disappointed with the few hair salons that I’ve been trying lately (I am new in town, so I am trying to find a decent salon, no luck for the moment) they all highly recommended the treatment!!! and they show no second thoughts at all!!! I don’t know why this surprises me, money is a b%$# right? specially when there is a hype and such a strong and aggressive Marketing campaign.
Anyway, my question is can somebody or can you beauty brains please recommend a saver alternative? I am all about organic (and yes with time, you can really tell the difference if you are using organic in a many ways) so if there was an organic alternative it would be awesome!
Thank you very much,
Regards to everyone!

Stephanie Johnson October 26, 2010 at 11:36 am

Hi all,

I work in the beauty industry from the manufacturer side and, unfortunately, Brazilian Blowout does indeed carry 10%+ Formaldehyde. This was discovered mid-2010 and the company is claiming it “didn’t know”. It has been removed from the shelves in Canada and is under dispute in Oregon. Since they have 50 times the legal amount of Formaldehyde (.2%) in their products than is permitted by the FDA, they will be in court in 2011 and their products will likely be removed from shelves nationwide. It’s a shame because the product is amazing.

Madalynn November 2, 2010 at 3:27 pm

I know people with curly, frizzy hair love this treatment, but it is dangerous to your health. I have worked with the brazilian keratin treatment and before i knew how much formaldahye was actually in this product I knew it wasn’t safe. When ever it was being done in the salon I would feel sick (sore throat, dizzy, coughing) This product should be pulled from the shelves everywhere.

Eugene Eicke Of Increase Hair Growth December 21, 2010 at 6:52 am

There are several excellent new choices making using combos of natural treatments in a topical kind which could greatly increase hair growth. Waxing, rather than pulling, rests and opens skin follicles along with it’s warmness and so won’t increase hair growth mainly because the hair normally do not fully feel just as if they’re to be ripped away from your pore. A unique solution to appropriately increase hair growth is going to be sure that you’re acquiring an adequate level of the suitable vitamin supplements.

Odette January 17, 2011 at 11:05 pm

I have been reading all your blogs on the Keratin treatments. I am a Salon owner, and loved the results my clients have been receiving from the keratin treatments. BUT I have just been to have blood tests done for an unrelated issue, and to my surprise and the doctors, my liver levels have jumped dramatically. I am now going to have to have an ultra sound and further tests. I have been a hairdresser for 20 years, and never had any problems with my liver. I am a non drinker and a non smoker. Keratin treatments are a great money spinner. But not worth my health.
I feel cheated by my the manufacturers who sold this product as “safe” “formaldehyde free” not telling us that two derivatives of formaldehyde, when heated form the same gas!! We breath this in. As a Salon owner I will NO LONGER be putting myself or my staff’s health at risk. Not for a couple of bucks!!!

Sandy March 20, 2011 at 10:16 am

Has any one tried their new formula “Zero”? I am going to try it out as soon as this bottle of the original formula is gone. I hope to see the same results.

Cathy B. April 23, 2011 at 3:46 pm

After skimming through many of the comments about Brazilian hair relaxing, it seems no one mentioned how prevalent hair loss is after treatment.

After having had both Japanese and Brazilian treatments, the effects of Brazilian relaxing are much better. The hair is smoother, shinier, and easy to manage. I opted for the most intense treatment and one year later, the hair is still not back to it’s original state.

It did, however, fall out within weeks of the treatment. It stops falling out after about three months. My assistant at work also had the treatment done after I did and her hair fell out as well.

I have recently discovered the benefits of keratin hair care products and vow to NEVER relax my curls again. Hope this is helpful.

Cathy B. April 23, 2011 at 3:57 pm

Hello Julie,

Just read your comment and was happy to read that someone else discussed the breakage and falling out issues related to brazilian relaxing. But I am concerned that you made a general statement about brazillian relaxing not being permitted for use in Brazil. I think you have been misinformed as my assistant at work is from Brazil and travels back and forth each summer to visit her parents. She had the treatment done there recently.

While I am in complete agreement with you that the treatment causes damage to the hair, I think it’s important to be accurate in our statements. The treatment is still being utilized in Brazil.

Brazilian Therapy August 27, 2011 at 9:01 pm

Does anyone know anything about the new Brazilian straightening products that use other amino acids like Cysteine, rather than Keratin, in the relaxing process.

Anybody tried this out yet?

Brazilian hair November 11, 2012 at 2:08 pm

Hair irons and hot combs can only temporarily modify hair texture, whereas relaxers and the other methods permanently alter the structure of the hair, although new hair growth is not affected. The drug interferon alpha has been reported as being shown to modify hair follicles causing permanent change in a person’s hair texture.

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