Tammy’s request…It seems I have to change my shampoo all the time because my hair gets used to it. Why is this?
The Right Brain Responds:
A lot of people complain that their shampoo “stops working” or that their hair “gets immune” to it and they have to change. Hair care researchers have looked into this question but have never been able to find any solid scientific reason that this should happen. But, as usual, we have a theory:
Shampoo burnout?
Many shampoos contain some level of condtioning agents. Back in the day, unless your shampoo was a “2-in-1″, it was not generally capable of depositing any conditioning ingredients on your hair. But today, that the 2 in 1 (shampoo plus conditioner) technology has found its way into moisturizing shampoos, color care shampoos, and even some volumizing shampoos. You might find ingredients like silicones, cationic guar gum, and conditioning polymers in almost any shampoo today.
So, although you may not realize it, you may be using a shampoo that provides as much, or almost as much, conditioning as a 2 in 1. Let’s say that you use this kind of shampoo for a while. You might feel that your hair gets over conditioned after a while. So, you decide to change shampoos.
Maybe you start to use a clarifying or deep cleansing shampoo. For a while everything is fine – your hair feels nice and clean again. All the ingredients that built up on your hair from the 2 in 1 shampoos get removed. But then, after using that stripping shampoo for a while, your hair starts to feel dry like straw.
So, you feel the need to switch shampoos again. You pick up a “balancing” shampoo that contains some conditioning ingredients. And after using this one for a while you start to feel buildup and the whole cycle starts all over again.
This kind of process could be the cause of “shampoo burnout.” Of course, this is only a theory, but it is a theory that makes sense when you consider how modern shampoo formulations work.
Kerastase concern
The good people at Kerastase have a different theory, however. We quote:
No, it isn’t true that shampoos don’t work after some time, Karen Ong, brand manager for Kerastase and Redken, says. Like skin, hair and scalp conditions change due to internal and external aggressions such as hormonal levels, diet, sleep and pollution, and need different solutions. That`s why it feels like the shampoo doesn’t work anymore because your needs have changed.
We seriously doubt that diet, sleep or pollution significantly impact shampoo performance. But hey, they’re entitled to their theories too. Of course another possibility is that the perception of needing to change shampoo is just psychological.
What do YOU think? Do you have to change shampoos because they burn out? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.
{ 18 comments… read them below or add one }
I was told by a hairdresser to use a clarifying shampoo once a week, for the reasons you guys have discussed ie, build up of silicones etc. Works fine for me I’ve never had this problem.
I use a clarifying shampoo once or twice a week and I’ve never had to worry about shampoo burnout. And I use some pretty heavy stuff! Pantene for Lone Hair – that stuff is super heavy with the conditioning in both the shampoo and conditioner. But in the winter it’s perfect for my hair type. And in summer i switch it up to Herbal Essences Tousle Me Softly for smexy bed head.
Same here – I use Suave 2-in-1 regularly, but suds up with Suave Clarifying once a week. Seems to work great.
I usually use low-poo from DevaCurl, and I’ve never had this shampoo burnout you speak of. Back in the day, before i knew how to deal with curly hair, i was using nasty silicone laden shampoos, and I had to keep using a clarifying shampoo to make it feel like it was working again. So I think your theory is dead on.
Right now, I’m using the exfoliating shampoo from Phyto because of this pesky psoriasis tho
I have absolutely fallen in LOVE with Eufora shampoos & conditioners! The entire professional like is very eco-friendly, uses aloe vera gel & there are NO petroleum ingredients in the shampoos or conditioners. Since making the switch over 2 years ago, I have never had a problem with build-up. My hair looks and feels better than ever!
I encourage you to find a hairdresser who recommends this stuff!!
I agree, my shampoo does seem to leave a build up. I use Aveda volumizing shampoo regularly on my fine hair. So at least once a month I rinse with cool water and baking soda. It removes the “build up”, and leaves hair soft and shiny. The baking soda works just as well as the clarifying shampoos, but for a lot less money.
The only burnout I get from shampoo is I get tired of the same old stuff every single day. So I change it up from time to time just to have something different.
I think they “stop working” for the exact reasons you quoted above. Silicones, hydrolyzed proteins and other conditioning agents that are LOADED into practically every shampoo out there stay on your hair for a long, long time, and build up.
I make sure to use a shampoo that doesn’t contain ANY conditioning agents (except polyquaternium-8 in a very low concentration in one shampoo). Since my hair is bleached blonde, if I only used TRUE clarifying shampoo (which I do use), my hair can look pretty dry. So I use a very, very light spray containing amodimethicone (Bb Prep) and then another spray that has a little bit of hold and some hydrolyzed proteins (Bb styling lotion) every 3 days or so. It literally takes 3-5 shampoos to wash out every bit of silicone from just one session of light spraying. So I skip the sprays for 2-3 shampoos, then use them again on the 4th days.
I can tell the silicones are still there because I have an insanely sensitive nose, and multiple showers after using a silicone in my hair, I can STILL get small wiffs the silicone containing product even after having washed my hair with a non-conditioning shampoo 2-3 times. The stick to hair INCREDIBLY well, I can’t stress that enough to people. Plus I flat iron my hair, and I’m sure that helps seal the conditioning agents in.
Imagine what washing your hair with something that deposits that much conditioner in your hair does. It weights it down and makes it ultra-flat and then it gets greasier because it’s lying on your head. That’s exactly what happens to me if I use a silicone containing product more than 2 days in a row.
I could go on-and-on about this, because I feel like 90% of people with flat, fine, greasy hair are guilty of over-conditioning and then try to say, “It’s just the way my hair is!” It drives me crazy. You have to be smart about the ingredients you use in your hair if you want your hair to look and perform the way you want.
Oh not that build up/silicone nonsense again.
Look, when you wash your clothes, does the soap build up in it? When you wash your body does the soap/body wash build up on it?
No, because the next washing washes it away.
Same with the silicones and everything else. It washes away the next washing. If you think you’re getting build up it’s all in your head.
Only reason to change shampoos and conditioners is because you’re bored with them. Not some nonsense about build ups.
I alternate between two shampoos every few days and never have a burnout problem. I don’t do it because I am afraid of burnout, I do it because I get bored and want to switch up my products.
Shampoos can be formulated to be “type specific” (i.e. moisturizing, dandruff)…these are the ones that have additives. Personally, I believe shampoos are for cleansing the scalp and therefore gentle surfactants work the best on the majority of people. But, if you’re using lots of styling products that contain silicones, etc; you can get build up over time that is hard to remove. Then, you may have to look to ACV rinse to rid your hair of build up.
I tend to agree with Jeff’s post above, that if you’re over-conditioning your hair with the “surfactant-free” type shampoos or even some “shampoo +conditioner” products…they may be too heavy for your hair. With these products (know some have been discussed here before), you are simply conditioning and not cleansing. When choosing shampoos think about your scalp condition. Then, choose a conditioner that matches your hair type.
Being a hairdresser, I get this scenario from a lot of people! This is my theory.. It isn’t that the shampoo stopped working or you are now “immune” to it. What styling products did you use before, what are you using now? Your hair grows everyday, is it the same it was when you started using your shampoo (i.e. shorter, longer, layered, one length, colored, etc.)? As your style changes, so should your products. Plus, I get bored with one thing and it is fun to change it up a bit!
i have used the same shampoo for years witout any problems. maybe it’s because i dont use many products on my hair, i dont know.
I always use a deep cleansing shampoo….If I didn’t I’d end up shampooing my hair like three or four times because of how oily it gets. After that I just use some light conditioner and my hair is just peachy.
I change my shampoos by the weather, so I don’t get build up. For instance, I use a moisturizing/smoothing shampoo/conditioner set when it is humid or going to rain so I don’t get frizz, but I can safely use a volumizing or “regular” S/C on good weather days and get bouncy hair. If it is really dry or I change climates for a trip, my hair likes shine formula S/C. People think I’m nuts b/c I have 3-4 S/Cs in my shower at all times, but I constantly rotate based on the forecast and it keeps my fine but full, mostly straight with a hint of kink hair under great control without any styling post-shower.
I have to switch shampoo and conditioner every couple of weeks, but I always use moisturising ones, just different brands. It’s like my hair just gets used to it or immune, like bacteria that get exposed to too many antibiotics, they build up resistance, that’s my theory. What the Keratstase chick says does have some baring though, expecially the hormonal part; 2 t0 3 days before my “time of the month” my hair is way frizzier and straw-like, and just after it’s silkier.
I prefer organic shampoo
I think all of shampoo same..
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