Mo must know…It is very confusing with so many first cousins around of AHAs, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid & Ammonium Lactate. Which one is the better one of these? I believe all of them essentially do the same job – They help with itching in KP/Eczema/Psoriasis, slough off dead skin, exfoliate, unplug pores, reduce wrinkles.
The Right Brain responds:
Mo, we’re sorry to tell you that the answer is none of the above: the best AHA is actually Lactobionic acid. (Ok, technically it’s a Poly Hydroxy Acid but the basic idea of how it works is the same.)
Loving lactobionic acid
Hopefully all our readers recognize AHA as the abbreviation for Alpha Hydroxy Acid, a class of chemical that is used to loosen dead skin cells and increase cell turnover. According to research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Lactobionic acid is not only more effective than glycolic acid at improving cell turn over but it’s also less irritating.
An international team from London, Serbia and Slovenia tested both AHAs in a cream and a gel. 26 volunteers used the products twice a day for two weeks. The researchers found that Lactobionic acid scored better in both forms even though their data indicated the gel base worked a bit better than the cream form.
What do YOU think? Do you use AHAs to smooth your skin? Which products do you like? Leave a comment and share your alpha hydroxy affinity with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.
Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Issue 9, pages 3-10
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I use Salicylic Acid (3% and 25%) & Glycolic Acid (50%) and I really like them. I use the SA 3% daily and I use the SA (25)/GA (50) as a weekly peel. I like the combo because it leaves my face super smooth and helps control my breakouts pretty well.
What sort of percentage concentrations should we be looking at for AHAs and PHAs?
Great article and even better picture! I’ve also seen some data showing that amino acid salts of AHAs can be quite effective with decreased side effects. For a-ha giggles, check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HE9OQ4FnkQ
I like the A-ha picture! I don’t think I’ve ever heard of Lactobionic acid or seen it in any products. When I use AHAs I use Glycolic acid, and I also use Salicylic acid (a BHA).
What’s a inexpensive brand that has Lactobionic acid in it.
By googling , I found Neostrata- but that is about 10.00 a oz.
Thanks
Considering Neostrata owned the original lactic acid/AHA patents, I wouldn’t be surprised if they also patented the use of lactobionic for exfoliants.
Dr. Schultz from DermTV recommends Glycolic acid, have you heard from him about why he reccomends Glycolic over lactobionic. It would also be good to know if Lactobionic acid is strong enough to interfere with retinol (like glycolic).
@sarah
could you post where you found info about glycolic interfering with retinol? i would like to do more research into this
thanks!
Lactobionic acid (like mandelic acid) is less irritating since it is a larger molecule than glycolic acid. It does not penetrate so deeply. Since it is less irritating it can be used at high concentrations and/or more frequently. There is also probably less risk of hyperpigmentation.
For info about lactobionic (and mandelic) acid see the blog post http://agemoreslowly.com/blog/skin/lactobionic-acid-a-newish-less-irritating-skin-peel-agent/
I have rosacea so this interests me. Can anyone recommend a product that contains both a polyhydroxy acid and anti-irritant ingredients?
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