Tanya wants to know (via FaceBook)…Hi! I just read an article about sun protection written by a pro in cosmetology. Speaking about ways to protect skin with couperose in summer she highly recommended Pevonia Botanica RS2 Concentrate but for me this is a really pricey product. Could you guys explain why she says it is good, what the active ingredients are, and – what’s most important – what the alternative/cheaper cosmetic products for couperose are?
The Left Brain replies:
Thanks for being a Facebook Fan, Tanya. But before I address your question about Pevonia Botanica RS2 Concentrate I’d like to raise another question: What exactly is “couperose skin?”
What is couperose?
Surprisingly, this question was harder to answer than I expected. The only references I could find when searching for information on couperose were related to another condition, rosacea. We’ve blogged about Rosacea before. It’s is a common skin condition that causes redness across the nose, cheeks,forehead and chin. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), there are four subtypes of rosacea:
- Erythematotelangiectatic rosacea: Redness, flushing, visible blood vessels
- Papulopustular rosacea: Redness, swelling, and acne-like breakouts
- Phymatous rosacea: Skin thickens and has a bumpy texture
- Ocular rosacea: Eyes red and irritated, eyelids can be swollen.
Interestingly, the AAD website makes no reference at all to couperose. After additional searching I’ve found two basic facts: first that couperose symptoms include redness visible blood vessels and second, couperose is a often translated as “rosacea.” So, without a definitive answer from another expert source the best I can figure out is that couperose is a synonym for Erythematotelangiectatic rosacea (subtype 1.) If anyone has further details please leave a comment along with a reference and I’ll update this post. Now, back to Pevonia.
According to their website, Pevonia contains several “key ingredients” including Green Tea, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice), Olibanum (Frankincense), and French Rose Essential Oil and it provides the following benefits:
- Immediate feeling of comfort
- Cools and decongests
- Controls blotchiness and reduces skin heat
- Strengthens capillaries, heals
It’s difficult to assess the formula without seeing all the ingredients (it always makes me suspicious when a company only lists some of the ingredients in their product.) On the positive side, licorice extract has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. On the other hand, rose oil can actually be a skin sensitizer and irritant. The product claims are also somewhat troubling. Any skin lotion can provide a “feeling of comfort.” But “strengthening capillaries, heals” is clearly a drug claim that is not allowed for cosmetics (at least not in the U.S.). Furthermore, this product doesn’t contain other ingredients that are known to help with rosacea like sunscreen or salicylic acid. So, without clear cut evidence that this product contains a functional ingredient at active levels, I’m skeptical of its performance.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Stick with cheaper products that can relieve the symptoms of rosacea. The Cosmetic Cop has a good explanation of which ingredients to look for. Finally, consult your dermatologist if your skin doesn’t clear up.