NatashaK asks… I have noticed that my hair looks its absolute best (volume + less frizz + not greasy) 3 days after I shampoo it. I was hoping to attain this effect faster (like on day 2), and I figure using my natural scalp oils is the best way to do that. My question is: What flipping hairbrush will best take some of my top-of-head oils all the way to the ends of my hair (about 2ft)? I have been using a paddle brush for as long as I can remember. I have a fear of combs fostered by a childhood filled with knotty hair and tears. I have found that bristle brushes don’t really get all the way through my hair (only brushes the top layer), but I haven’t picked one up in about 10 years and would be willing to try again.
The Right Brain responds:
Natasha, this is a really great question. I just wish we had an equally great answer. We couldn’t find any definitive information on this in the scientific literature but we do have some thoughts that could be helpful. There are two basic factors we’d look at in trying to answer this question: how well does the styling tool distribute oil and how much damage does it cause to the hair.
Bristle behavior
One article we found pointed out the intuitively obvious fact that different combs and brushes will work differently depending on their structure, “with the spacing between teeth or bristles having an influence. However, in principle, different comb or bristle materials may also have a different tendency for abrasion.” (1) We can also hypothesize that they will have different efficacy in spreading scalp oils throughout the hair. Theoretically, boar’s hair brushes would do a better job because they would have a greater affinity for oils than plastic brushes. This is purely an educated guess but we’d expect boar bristles to act as a better reservoir for scalp oils than plastic bristles.
Comb configuration
A second study shows the importance of the brush or comb bristles configuration. It compared hair breakage resulting from use of three different styling implements; first a Goody flat paddle style brush with featuring plastic bristles with blue bulbous tips with a bristle bulb diameter of 0.2134 cm. (We’re not saying that’s a critical factor, we just like using phrases like “bristle bulb diameter.”) The second tool was a cylindric Prive styling brush also containing plastic bristles with a smaller bristle bulb diameter of 0.1118 cm. Finally an Ace comb of unspecified dimensions and, presumably, 0 cm bristle bulb diameter.
Results showed that both brushes and combs cause hair breakage because hairs become “looped” around individual bristles. Once they are looped, the friction increases and the hair can be pulled out or broken. Interestingly the data showed that brushing causes more long hairs to break while combing does just the opposite: it produces more short broken hairs.
This difference in breakage is apparently due to the fact that brushes create more looping higher up in the hair and tend to keep the ends apart. This is because brush bristles are further apart than the comb teeth and they are configured in multiple rows and columns. In addition, the brushes tend to distribute the hair over a wider area than a comb which tends to confine the hairs to a narrow path. In terms of oil distribution then, a brush could provide a better opportunity for even oil spreading. (2)
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Unfortunately, we couldn’t find any hard data to answer your oil spreading question. Our best guess based on the information we’ve seen: use a wide tooth comb to detangle and a natural fiber bristle brush (like boar’s hair) to distribute oils through your hair. You’ll have to experiment to get the configuration that’s right for you, but at least now you know what to look for.
Reference 1:
J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 439–455 (November/December 2010) A statistical analysis of hair breakage. II. Repeated grooming experiments. Trefor A. Evans and Kimun Park.Reference 2:
J. Cosmet Sci., 58, 629-636 (November/December 2007) Hair breakage during combing IV: Brushing and combing hair. Clarence Robbins and Yash Kamath.
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
Mason Pearson. Boar bristles, slightly domed brush. Pricy, but will last forever and will not cause split ends. I bought mine over 25 years ago, and still prize it. Excellent brush for just what you are looking for.
I’ve bought two combs and a boar bristle brush. So far so good, but I’ve had to completely re-learn how to brush my hair.
It sounds like Natasha has long, thick hair prone to tangling, which I do too. The brains tip has definitely worked for me in the past, and that’s a fantastic option.
If someone were looking for one brush which would simplify their lives, I’ve had success with using ones that have a mix of stiff plastic bristles and soft boar bristles. The plastic ones have to be long and sturdy enough to stand up to thick hair, that’s important and as long as there’s enough boar bristles mixed in, the oil dispersion will still happen.
For long hair in particular, the number one best tip I have is to start brushing at the bottom, working your way upwards. This creates the least breakage, because it creates the least tugging and pulling. Which is gentler on the scalp too. And as for Natasha’s specific question, there’s very few people who produce enough oil on the scalp to lubricate a whole head of thick long hair. I’ve found in my experience that after even a week of washing, even before I was on Accutane and I was much oilier, all the scalp oils I could brush down would come to about bob length and there wouldn’t be enough for the remainder of the length. However, there are many cheap oils that can be bought at the health food store or drug store, which if applied sparingly can be used as a leave in and shine enhancer.
I love my Goody “Smooth and Penetrate” combo brush. It has a cushion, and both stand-up hard plastic bristles to get through my hair and the wonderful oil-distributing boar hair bristles to smooth. I also use coconut oil (about 1tsp melted in hand) applied to the bottom third of my hair and brushed through.
Denman brushes all the way.
The classic styling brush is a perfect replacement for a comb for wet combing. No tangles, less breakage.
The D81 & D82 grooming brushes are perfect for dry brushing, distributing the scalp’s oils along the hair shaft, and general smoothing, polishing, and grooming.
They also make a shampoo massage brush that is amazing.
There’s a reason many hairstylists use Denman’s classic styling brushes.
And the brushes themselves last forever. I’ve had mine for 6 years now, and they still look brand new. You can get them online directly from Denman or places like Amazon, etc.
My fave expensive mixed boar/nylon brushes are mason pearson (for dry brushing) and altesse (for wet styling as well as dry brushing). I’ve never tried Denman. I’m still trying to figure out whether I get more breakage with a wide tooth comb or a brush. I feel like I have to be more careful with the comb, because it tends to go deeper through more layers of hair and can create snags, whereas the brush seems to stay closer to the surface layer.
I use a Body Shop brush with metal pins which I really like, because the pins do not have seams. But to be honest I use it so carefully, and I never brush from the scalp down to the ends. So I don’t think it could distribute anything. To make my hair not get all poufed up and frizzy after washing, I use mild shampoos, heavy conditioners, and when the hair is still wet a tiny amount of Pink Moisturising Lotion in the ends. Iit contains oil and for my dry hair I like it much better than the “non weigh down” leave in moisturisers like Herbal Essences etc. Coconut Oil like Nikole said is also great, but my jar would always go off before I could even half way finish it. And maybe what’s most important, I never-ever blow dry. I air dry in large braids, twists or knots, so the hair comes out soft and wavy, and not poufed up.
Mason Pearson. Pricey, but still the absolute best there is. And they last, too. I got mine almost 20 years ago and it’s still in perfect condition. The bristles haven’t split and the rubber backing is perfect.
The only issue is that you absolutely CANNOT use them with a blow dryer or they will either crack over time with dryness or just melt on the spot.
But for regular brushing, wet or dry, they are fantastic. And I believe they do distribute scalp oils, though clearly I have no scientific proof of this.
I feel you…Natashak, my hair is beautiful on the 3rd day… but by then my roots were sooo greasy it was embaracing. I recommend you use a dry shampoo like that from tressemme. It comes in an aerosal spray can. This amazing product ( any dry shampoo will do) has let me enjoy the benefits of 3, 4 even 5 day old hair!