February is almost over but we still have more link love questions. Here’s one from Cherry Sue Do In The Do…
Susan says… My question (& I’m sure other’s too) is how often should we exfoliate? With ever increasing choice in exfoliators on the market and differing advice as to regularity of use (sometimes as a marketing ploy to buy more product), ideally how often should we be exfoliating? Are we doing more harm than good with daily products?
The Right Brain responds:
This is another one of those questions where there’s no “one size fits all” answer. As you pointed out there are many types of exfoliators on the market and it’s difficult (impossible?) to find a consensus of opinion on how often to use them. We tend to look for expert dermatologist point of view but even there consistency is lacking. For example, according to Dr. Badreshia-Bansal of the American Academy of Dermatologists, “exfoliating once a week is sufficient.” But Clinique’s staff dermatologist recommends “relatively gentle exfoliation twice a day.” Whoever you chose to believe, the most important factor to consider is the harshness of the exfoliating treatment: the more severe the treatment the less frequently it should be used.
Type of exfoliators
The following list of exfoliators are ranked in order from mildest to harshest. In terms of frequency of how to exfoliate face, our rule of thumb looks like this: items 1-3 can be used daily, 4-5 weekly, 6 monthly, and 7-9 should be at the direction of your dermatologist.
- Washing face with cleanser and wash cloth
- Scrubs (harshness depends on particles type: polyethylene microbeads, walnut shells, sugar and salt scrubs)
- Salicylic acid
- Enyzme peels (Subtilisin based)
- Glycolic acid/Lactic acid
- Home dermabrasion (Aluminum oxide small particles, small)
- Professional chemical peels (higher acid concentration)
- Professional Dermabrasion (Aluminum oxide medium particles)
- Professional Dermabrasion (Diamond particles, coarse grit)
References:
- http://www.aad.org/stories-and-news/news-releases/saving-face-101-how-to-customize-your-skin-care-routine-with-your-skin-type
- http://www.exfoliant.com/types.php
- http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/10/091019172107.htm
- http://thebeautybrains.com/2011/08/01/can-enzymes-exfoliate-your-skin-2/
- http://www.ivillage.com/exfoliation-101-cliniques-guiding-dermatologist/5-a-146575#ixzz1nV0IAZKh
Image credit: moonstarsandpaper.blogspot.com
If you’re shopping for an exfoliator
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
I usually exfoliate my face at least twice a week… and you’re so right about the potency of the exfoliating ingredients. The stronger it is, the less often you use it.
Walnut shells? Wouldn’t that be way too harsh and cause tears in the skin?
I thought there was no limit on how many times you can exfoliate…apparently there is. Nice post.
Hey, at least it’s natural! lol.
Yes, walnut shells are too harsh and will damage skin! There’s also a difference between the functions of Beta Hydroxy Acid (salicylic) and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic, lactic) and the concentration you use of them. BHA’s can exfoliate within the pore and the surface of the skin, whereas, AHA’s are only surface exfoliators. I use a gel with 2% salicylic acid 2x a day (once if my face is dry) and a treatment with 10% glycolic acid once a week. No scrubs.
This came up in discussion with a friend recently. Where would the clarisonic brush or similar rank in the order of harshness? Milder or harsher than salicylic acid?
@Sarah: That’s a great question. We’ve never seen any data comparing the two, but the Clarisonic brush is quite soft and is designed for everyday use with a low surfactant cleanser, so my guess is that one is less harsh than Sal acid. But that’s just a guess.
Thanks brains for your two cents! Whoops, I recommended chemical exfoliation. Anything involving a brush just sounded harsh (and in the case of the clarisonic, expensive) to me.
Thanks so much for answering my question. Knew I could trust you to point me in the right direction. Great post!