Jasmine says…I am an unfortunate victim of adult acne and I’m being bombarded with different advice from doctors, cosmetologists etc on different creams that all basically do the same thing- mildly exfoliate. I am however using a 20% salicylic acid peel every 10 days to get rid of scars and “unclog my pores”. A relative who is a doctor suggested I try azelaic acid instead- having Indian skin. So my question is: Is there really a difference between these? Do they act on the skin differently? Perhaps molecule size makes a difference?
The Left Brain responds:
It’s not clear from your question whether or not the doctor you spoke with is a dermatologist. The reason I bring it up is a general practitioner may not have the background required to adequately diagnose your skin condition. Regardless, I would never countermand a doctor’s diagnosis, however I can give you some basic scientific background about the difference between these two active ingredients.
AHAs and acne
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid which means it’s more lipid or oil soluble so it can penetrate into the “pores” better which makes it effective in treating acne. (So molecule size isn’t the key factor. ).
Azelaic acid is an alpha hydroxide and is also used to treat acne. The mode of action is antibacterial and, according to WebMD, it doesnt work on acne that’s not infected with bacteria. I’m assuming that the sal acid has an advantage here because it can help loosen skin cells that could potentially plug your pores even if there is no bacteria infection.
Azelaic acid also has the ability to reduce inflammation and so can be used to treat rosacea and it used to treat post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation. That makes it a good treatment for post-acne scars. I couldn’t find any information that indicates it’s suitable for use on Indian skin.
If you’d like to read more, here’s a great reference on the difference between AHAs.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Unless otherwise indicated by a dermatologist , I suspect that Sal acid is more effective at clearing clogged pores.
References:
Grimes, Pearl E. (2007-07-01). Aesthetics and Cosmetic Surgery for Darker Skin Types. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins. pp. 74–. ISBN 978-0-7817-8403-0.
WebMD
Image credit: cynicsgirl.blogspot.com
{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
Useful information! Thanks
Thanks for the information. I used to have clogged pores and oily skin. My derma suggested that I use Jurlique Moisture Replenishing Mask and Daily Exfoliating Cream, indeed it has great effects on my skin.
am interested in finding out is this a myeth are for sure, does tar grease are any product containing tar, make your hair grow, I have had a problem with over the years my hair has stunted in growth, I have been wearing sew ins which as allowed my hair to grown but now I am wanting to pull away and wear my own, while maintaining it with the best and health products that are worth there weight in gold,
Try M2 20% skin refinish. It used to be called mama lotion. they recently changed the formula but it is still the best product I’ve ever used and I recommend it for anyone with scarring and acne-prone skin. It is especially helpful for PIH and for those with dark skin.
FYI – the image you used is from a B movie called “The Brain That Wouldn’t Die.” (On IMDB: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052646/)
Cynicsgirl.blogspot.com has no rights to the image.
@Heather: You raise a great point! The only reason I credited her blog with this image is that Google classifies her image a “labeled for reuse” which we’ve been told means that the image in the public domain. Not sure if that’s true or not but I figure by using Google’s rules they shouldn’t be able to come after us if there is a copyright issue. If someone has a better approach for determining if images are safe to share, please let me know.
PS I LOVE that movie!
Hi there, I have lots of clients with congested skin and I can highly recommend Skin Guru’s Cleansing Oil used together with the Glow Cloth. It’s fantastic!
what’s good to tighten large pores, I have tried the old way as well as the new fades, also I was told years ago that (TAR) products are good for keeping and growing your hair is that (TRUE) are (FALSE). And were can i find this Skin Guru”s cleaning oil and glow cloth?
No, tar does not help prevent hair loss or increase hair growth.
Hi Fran, you can find Skin Guru products at http://www.theskinguru.co.uk!
Honestly speaking from experience ( esthetician ) no products out there help with acne, its internal meaning You need to purify your body especially blood, watch your diet clean foods , plenty of water and vitamin C. Drinking water with lemon juice ( no sugar ) is extremely cleansing and beneficial , cut down on meat preferably no red at all.
The most important thing that you need to do is to always keep your face clean. Make sure that you wash your face at least twice a day and use a decent toner that won’t destroy your skin.
I have mild adult acne and salicylic acid products help it more than any other products. It helps prevent and resolve clogged pores, blackheads, and zits. I’ve been using Paula’s Choice 2% BHA liquid almost every night for many years. Drugstore brands have worked well for me too.
I have had oily and acne prone skin since my teens as well. I’m not sure whether salicylic acid is the best product for acne prone and clogged skin, but yes, from my personal experience, it has helped reduce the frequency and severity of my breakouts. My skin also feels softer and less congested after using it. But I suppose different people might have different experience with it.