Shaniqua says… What can you tell us about relaxer reversion? Sometimes when I have my hair straightened it goes back to being curly and wavy. What’s happening?
The Mid Brain responds:
Instead of letting the Left Brain answer this question with a long winded explanation of disulfide bond degradation, I decided to give you guys special treat.
To answer Shaniqua’s question I consulted with one of the greatest relaxer experts in the world, Uyi Woghiren Chief Chemist of Universal Ideas and Concepts, Inc. Here’s what Mr. Woghiren had to say on the topic of relaxer reversion:
What cases relaxer reversion?
As Shaniqua correctly pointed out reversion refers to the hair returning to a curly or wavy state after being straightened. Even though this is a very common problem the causes of reversion are not well understood by most people.
As you know, relaxing the hair requires breaking down the chemical bonds usually with a high pH material such as cream containing sodium, calcium, or lithium hydroxide. These hydroxide creams can be applied by a stylist, a friend, or by yourself. After application of the relaxer into the hair it is then straightened with a comb. After straightening is completed, the hair is shampooed, conditioned, and styled. Reversion occurs in a few weeks, usually after one or two shampooing when the hair begins to revert to its original “S” shape.
When they experience this problem most people blame the product. You’ll hear women say something like “oh don’t use that brand of relaxer because it causes reversion.” In reality the answer is not that simple. There are actually two key causes of relaxer reversion.
Reason #1: Relaxer is not strong enough
A good relaxer has over 2% hydroxide concentration. Anything less than 2% will not truly straighten hair. Furthermore, some relaxers are formulated with excessive oils or other ingredients that can interfere with the penetration of the hydroxide active. These ingredients reduce the straightening effect.
Reason #2: Relaxer is not left on the hair long enough
This is quite common for home kits where the product is being applied by someone who is not a trained stylist. However, even trained stylists may remove the product too quickly through misjudgment or if if the client is starting to show signs of scalp burning.)
Of course, regardless of the cause it’s always easy to blame the product. But the truth is most incidences of reversion are due to poor application rather than a bad product.
Uyi is too humble to mention it, but he’s also the creator of the popular Motions Relaxer System 
Mr Woghiren may be contacted at universalideas@yahoo.com
Image credit: http://www.dallashairextensions.biz/bb/bb-banda2.jpg
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