IndianGirl inquires…I was considering buying the New Options Alkaline hair relaxer, but its not something I can afford on a monthly basis, I was wondering, if the ingredients are as natural as they claim, is it something i could make at home, I have no idea what goes in, but was hoping you could helm me out here!
The Right Brain responds:
I don’t blame you for looking at options to replace New Options. At $28 for 16 ounces this product is much more expensive than most relaxers on the market. Is it worth it? Let’s take a look.
New Options claims
First lets review what all the fuss is about. Here’s what New Options says…
- We’ve combined advanced relaxing technology with alkaline salt minerals.
- 99.9% less chemicals and half the time of a press and curl
- Unlike traditional relaxers, it does not subtract or rob the hair of its natural cuticle layer in order for straightness to occur.
New Options Ingredients
So what is this stuff? We’ve had trouble finding a full ingredient list for this product (so if anyone can find a full ingredient list, please leave a note in the comments!) but the best information we have says it’s based on soda ash (which is what we chemists call Sodium Carbonate.) This is the alkaline salt mineral they refer to on their website.
Sodium carbonate will not break disulfide bonds of hair like a regular relaxer will, however, it will still raise the pH enough to swell the hair significantly.And that’s the problem: Hair doesn’t tolerate swelling very well. Swelling of the hair really caused damage. so while swelling does soften hair it will also cause damage. Is it as bad as hydroxide? No. But then again it will not straighten hair as well either.
Their claim about it working faster than a press and curl maybe true but it is NOT faster than a traditional relaxer which takes about 10 to 20 minutes to process. New Options takes 20 to 30 minutes. The claim about relaxers removing the cuticle to straighten hair is just not true- relaxers straighten by breaking the disulfide bonds which are located in the inner part of the hair called the cortex. They do not “subtract” the cuticle.
Can you make this yourself at home? Sorry, but no. Products like this which have a very high pH can be dangerous if not properly formulated. You’re better off paying for the formulation expertise rather than risking damage to your hair or skin.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
if you’re just looking to soften your texture a bit this could be the product for you. But If you want to relax your hair and you’re thinking of buying an Alkaline Softener because it’s 99.9% less chemicals , then you’re likely to be disappointed.
{ 20 comments… read them below or add one }
Greetings TBB,
What you got right:
Soda Ash is Sodium Carbonate!
What you got Wrong:
Alkalines Do Not SWELL hair. Alkalines, soften and reduce density, which can lead to a flexuous, and supple hair strand; hair shaft. Relaxer cream formula’s or Alkalines DO NOT BREAK BONDS. They dont get a chance to. Due to the nature of Alkalines to soften and dissolve, the first layers are affected before it enters any other layers.
Unfortunately, most chemist and scientist do not take into consideration that Dominant hair texture types like most African Americans have, do not work under Acid formulations such as RIO, Copa and Formaldehyde Keratin Straighteners.
The notion that ALL hair is the same is what has most CHEMIST on the wrong side of CURLY HAIR chemistry. Which is very different from straight hair chemistry. Which is the culprit for many myths in ethnic hair care.
The Ingredients are very simple and non-complex; Alkaline Minerals, emulsifiers, natural preservatives.
New Options is designed to Enhance Texture, not straighten. This remarkable product is designed to enhance curly hair’s natural behavior not change its genetic structure.
The Alkaline Mineral New Option technology has nothing to do with HYDROXIDE. AND Chemist should know this. Not quite sure the TBB chemist team understands Curly Hair science however, please be cautious when chemist think all hair is the same. IT IS NOT. Curly hair types are Dominant in nature and must be treated as such where formulation is concerned.
The time table itself should give Chemist a clue that the chemical principles of most straightening formulation does not apply to New Options. Hydroxide is a dissolver and that’s FACT! If it weren’t a subtraction of cuticle layer then a professional WOULDN’T NEED GLOVES.
At touch up time, the NEW GROWTH needs to be Straightened to match the density loss of the previous chemical service FACT! THAT IS WHY TOUCH-UPS MUST HAPPEN every 4- 6 weeks to keep the hair that is smaller in density from breaking away from the new growth.
The GREAT NEWS!
New Options does not minimize strand size, or dehydrated cortex bonds like acid pH formula’s; like Keratin straighteners and THIO based straighteners.
The Technology of New Options Alkaline Mineral is chemically sound and pH Balanced, which is the most sophisticated organic hair science on the MARKET. New Options is based on Thermo-tri-acto-mene chemistry and that is the most advanced technology in the hair care industry.
Errol Crockett, President
Crockett & Co., Inc.
@Errol: Thanks so much for your comment we do appreciate the additional information you’ve provided. However, you might want to fact-check a couple of your points with your company’s chemists. For example, alkaline materials do indeed swell the hair. As proof, I quote this article published in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists “A STUDY OF THE SWELLING OF HAIR IN MIXED AQUEOUS SOLVENTS” 1952, vol 3:
“However, further increase of pH causes greater swelling which become steep above pH 10. The increase above pH 10 probably signifies hydrolytic decomposition of the keratin molecule, and consequently loss of cohesion of the fibrous material.” So, yes, alkaline materials do cause swelling of the hair.
I’d also like to point out that, having worked for companies that formulate relaxers, we can assure you that chemists are very knowledgeable about curly hair science.
Thanks again and we wish you continued success with your business.
I have formulated permanent waves, hair colors, bleaches and relaxers (sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and thioglycolate relaxers) and been involved with the testing and study of rleaxers and all types of hair for 30 years. I do have expertise and understanding of curly, wavy and African/Caribbean hair types and products designed for those types.
Chemically, all hair is composed of the same basic building blocks – amino acids. The ratios and configurations of those building blocks are what gives hair all of its unique and intriguing properties – waviness, stretchability, durability, etc. The most important bond in hair is the disulfide bond which allow hair to stretch and contract and yet retain most of its integrity.
Hair can stretch up to 60% of its length when wet and then return to its original length with very minmal damage to structure. Hair does not tolerate radial swelling nearly as well. Wetting the hair causes swelling. As noted by BB, swelling of hair under alkaline conditions is even greater and accelerates dramatically dramatically as pH goes higher than 10. This swelling, under controlled conditions, allows active products (perms, colors, relaxers, bleaches) to permeate through the cuticle and cortex of the hair to perform their desired function (e.g., reduce curl). The swelling, in and of itself, does cause significant damage to the hair, but, if controlled, does yield the desired result withou damaging the hair to the point that it is no longer able to maintain its integrity. As hair is incapable of repairing itself, versus skin, the damage is cumulative. That is, the more we do to our hair, the greater the damage over time.
The response by the company is not totally accurate and the comments related to those of us who have been in the industry for many years and take great pride in the understanding we have of the medium (hair), the products and the resultant impact on the hair seems to be dismissive.
I thought the BB response was fair, accurate and informative.
Thanks.
Chuck Warren
Greetings to the TBB team and Charles Warren
This fundamental debate has been the problem in Ethnic Hair Care since it’s conception and the birth of the Black hair care vocation of 1896.
Though there might be structural similarities in hair of all races, the Dominant hair types of African descending people have drastic functional and behavioral differences, which must force chemist to approach formulation different.
Though I welcome the dialog about swelling, the fact of the matter is by science Alkalines; Salts, Soda ASH IN mineral bases mixed with HYDROXIDE DO NOT…swell. That would mean the hair strand gets bigger not smaller. It is not it’s scientific nature. Your team of chemist could be confused with the swelling nature of acid based formula’s; with ABSORBENCY and PENETRATION. Acids do penetrate, Alkalines DO NOT!
However I’m perplexed by the focus of your response. Your focus was only about your teams experience and validation of your knowledge. The point of the website is to review a product’s features, benefits and of course claims.
NOTE: If you can only review New Options via your present knowledge base then please tell your readers in all fairness, “That at the present time TBB is limited on the New Options technology and needs more knowledge to review this product.” This would be the right thing to do!
And lastly, the 1952 version of the text book that was quoted was and is still today not inclusive nor suitable for Dominant hair types, the hair of African descending peoples of the world was neither included or deemed important to the authors (whomever they were, it doesn’t state) at that time period. AND if your knowledge was and is still correct to this very day, my question to you then, is, why does Back Hair Care lack so much chemistry technology?
I can answer that for you; because what is being formulated to sustain the Beauty Standard (Straight Hair) is being formulated by those with Straight hair. And every chemical formulation is approached by the same point of view that is apart of old chemistry notions that have an historical failure rate in creating fresh, safe and organic options for the world largest population with hair “The Curly’s”
So once again, the fact of the matter is New Options Alkaline Mineral is based on pH genius, and Complete scientific sound principles.
Features;
Self Neutralization
Non-Structural Alteration
Organic pH formulation
Moisture Retention
Cuticle suppleness Benefits:
Increased growth
No-scalp trauma
texture transition
S-pattern retained
Scalp pH balance
Is there any way TBB can focus on New Option’s, New Options?
Errol Crockett
What a GREAT DEBATE! I believe that technology is challenging all of us in our everyday lives. It is challenging every aspect of society. It is changing and revolutionizing the makeup of every industry; food, manufacturing, medicine, psychology, etc. I don’t believe anyone on this thread will argue with the fact that we would have to also include the multi-billion dollar beauty industry. But, in addition to that as better tools are developed with new technology, it is also turning on its head what many scientists believed for many years about scientific research from years past in all areas of science. What I can say is that, it is good to see that intelligent individuals in our industry can have the same kind of healthy debates. Nothing wrong with questioning and challenging our minds and our beliefs, therein lies a true education. As Everett Dean Martin stated, “The man who strives to educate himself–and no one else can educate him –must win a certain victory over his own nature. He must learn to smile at his idols, analyze his every prejudice, scrap if necessary his fondest and most consoling belief, question his presuppositions, and take his chances with the truth.” Thanks for the Education,
Emilio Antonio Guevara
http://www.facebook.com/EnyadaGraduateSchoolofCosmetology
@Errol: As we pointed out in the original post we could not find a complete ingredient list for your product. Would you mind listing the ingredients here to help further an open and honest discussion about how your product works? Thanks!
Wow. getting a bit lost in the technical jargon!! Since both New Options and Xenna Culaway claim to work in the same way by loosening your natural curl pattern etc would it be cheaper for me to buy Xenna? Incidentally I have fine wavy hair that I would like to straighten a little more, I’m not looking for dead straight hair. Also what does damage to hair mean? regular shampooing etc also damages in the long run, do such such products damage hair more then the chemicals in your average shampoo? Veering off slightly from the topic of products, my naturally black Indian hair seems to be getting a reddish/brown tint from the sun over the last four to five years, I don’t really care about the change in colour but can the sun damage your hair in the long run? I haven’t found a hair serum with SPF in India
@IndianGirl:
Xenna Curlaway is $14.95 for a 6 ounce jar.
Relaxer and straighteners chemically damage hair which is MUCH worse than the physical damage you’d encounter from shampoos.
Extreme exposure to sun can damage hair but sunscreens in hair care aren’t very effective unless you apply a LOT and leave it in your hair.
Thanks I meant to ask are even these so called natural products bad for the hair in the long run.
New Options Alkaline Mineral Softener is only $27.95 for 16 oz.
We also offer package deals that include 16 oz. Moisturizer and 8 oz. Neutral Shampoo and Alkaline Mineral Softener for $49.95.
@IndianGirl: please reach out to us, I’d like to let you hear a non-solicited testimony, that we taped, through a phone message…it will transcend the technical jargon.
Errol
@Errol: is there any chance you’ll share the ingredient list for your product so we can help educate consumers about how it works? Thanks.
Mr Errol Crocket – I very much appreciate hearing a phone taped testimony of the product, but I would also love to know about how the product works from the ingredients used to create it. How do i reach you?
thanks a lot for taking the time to reply.
We mentioned the Ingredients in the beginning of this conversation.
” The Ingredients are very simple and non-complex; Alkaline Minerals, emulsifiers, natural preservatives.”
You can contact us @ http://www.newoptionshaircare.com
Thanks,
Errol
@Errol: with all due respect, what you have provided is not an accurate list of ingredients.
As I’m sure you’re aware all cosmetic products are required by law to carry a full list of ingredients somewhere on the package.
Those ingredients must be listed using their standardized scientific names. This prevents companies from trying to mislead consumers by using their own terms for chemicals.
I can’t speak for anyone else reading this discussion but personally I find it disturbing that you are so reluctant to share your ingredient list with potential customers. Consumers have a right to know what chemicals they are exposed to when they use a personal care product.
Hi beauty brains – I think I am just looking for a product that really controls frizz well in EXTREME HUMIDITY, not to straighten hair but something like a smoothing cream that i could use every month, by the way, i dont mind if it is not natural so to speak, but something that I could buy on Amazon and do at home? I t would be great if you have any suggestions.
Well the fact that Beauty Brains would rather get into a war of words with just about anyone on the response page just to demonstrate verbal prowess rather than just presenting whatever information is available on new products is a drag. At the end of the day, present the info and let readers/consumers make up their own mind. You can make the point without being needlessly verbose – it detracts from the point of this blog I think. Is that where the brains part is supposed to come in?? Just my 2 twigs. Being succinct and to the point is the best way to go.
@Trisha: Sorry if we came across as “needlessly verbose.” We were just getting frustrated that the company wouldn’t share their TRUE ingredient list with potential customers. That’s one of our pet peeves.
I’m a chemist by trade and new to this site, but I would suspect revealing the “true ingredient list” would infringe on the company’s formula. Never tried the stuff, just stating the obvious. Love the research, keep up the good work!
@Anita: Hi and welcome to our community! We love to have chemists join in the discussion because of their expert point of view. In response to your comment about “infringing on the company’s formula” here’s the scoop: All cosmetics are required to disclose their full ingredients on their package. If the company has “secret” technology they are permitted to apply for a special trade secret non-disclosure allowance but that happens VERYLY rarely. A company can also protect their intellectual property by patenting their inventions which protects other companies from copying their formula but even then they have to disclose the ingredients.
I was going to try and buy new options today but since erroll crockett isn’t revealing what is in the product I wont be placing the order after all. I will have to look for something else for my 4 a-b hair. I really likr the new options website and thought this was the way to go but when someone cant even say what is in it for the consumers knowledge and when they don’t care aobu the consumer only the money well then you have lost a customer.
I hope that other people out there see this before they buy the product
amroj
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