MadeiraD must know… I’ve been using Kinerase Ultimate Night Moisture for a long time. So far it seems to work pretty well for me (perhaps not quite humectant enough) but I’ve seen smoother skin, and it feels pretty nice. Anyone know about the ingredients?
The Left Brain responds:
If you like the product and can afford it then I won’t tell you not to buy it. But in my opinion, this product lacks evidence to show it’s really worth the money. The “most famous” ingredient in the formula is Kinetin which is a brand name for the chemical N6 Furfuryladenine.
What is Kinetin?
This chemical is a plant hormone that helps regulate cell division in plants. It is also alleged to be an effective anti-aging ingredient for skin which is why it’s included in products like Kinerase. According to their website the ingredient ”improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture by 25% in just 24 weeks.”
Does it really work?
Unfortunately, as with so many other “scientifically advanced ingredients” the effects of this chemical are really not that well established. But don’t take my word for it, a couple of our favorite beauty science mavens have written extensively about the research behind Kinectin. Paula Begoun (the Cosmetics Cop) and Nicki Zevola (FutureDerm) have both said essentially the same thing: That kinetin is overrated because almost all of the research has been conducted in vitro (meaning in the laboratory) and not in vivo (on actual skin.)
Nikki even goes on to say that in the areas where it appears that Kinetin may provide some benefit there are other compounds that are much better tested and proven to provide the same benefit and more.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
You should read both of these references to get a full understanding of the research that has been done on this ingredient. But in my opinion it would be foolish to spend $125 for a couple of ounces of a product that doesn’t really provide a differentiated benefit.
Kinerase Ultimate Night Moisture Ingredients
Water, Saccharide Isomerate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Capric/Caprylic Stearic Triglyceride, PEG 20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Kinetin, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide 5, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Phytosphingosine, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6 11, Cholesterol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium NTA, Ethylenediaminetriacetic Acid, Trisodium Salt