Today’s post is sponsored by FutureDerm.
If you’re not familiar with FutureDerm.com you should be. It’s another website that embraces a science-based approached to beauty (much like The Beauty Brains.) Nicki Zevola, the owner of the site, is an aspiring dermatologist who has formulated her own line of products. She recently asked to us to write a review of her FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 Gel Treatment.
What does it claim?
- Contains 0.5% concentrated retinol
- Fast absorbing (absorbs in a second compared to most retinoid creams which are thick and take up to 30 minutes)
- Sustained release technology keeps working for up to 8 hours.
- Perfect for use with your favorite moisturizers because you don’t have to wait before applying.
- Designed to optimize skin’s natural retinol activation process. (Retinol must be converted to isotretinoin by enzymes called retinyl ester hydrolyses.)
What is the technology?
Those of you familiar with retinol products might be surprised to see this one touting a use level of 0.5% when there are other products on the market that claim to contain 1% or even 2%. This is a case where more is not necessarily better because the same properties that make retinol good at “resurfacing” your skin also make it potentially irritating. FutureDerm has solved this problem by using a lower level of a micro-encapsulated retinol. Micro-encapsulation means a smaller amount of retinol is released slowly over time rather than blasting your skin with a high dose all at once. That means you get all of the benefits but less of the irritating side effects. While I’m not privy to the exact formula that Nicki uses, after looking at the ingredients I’m guessing the encapsulation technology involves one of the cross-polymers in the formula.
How well does it work?
First let me say how much I love the packaging for this product. The pump dispenses the perfect “pea-sized” amount that helps prevent you from over or under-dosing. The pump also has the additional benefit of protecting the product from exposure to air.
I was nervous at first because I’d never used a retinoid cream before and I’d heard nightmare stories of women burning their faces with similar products. While the product is quick absorbing as promised it did leave a light, but noticeable, greasy coating on my face. That’s a small price to pay, however, because the effects are real and surprisingly fast. After only a few days my skin was noticeably smoother. I was pleased to find that FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol did not aggravate my slight case of rosacea (although I know retinol products are not meant to be used on skin with rosacea.) More impressive, it completely removed dry flaky skin around my eyes, nose, and forehead. My only issue was the slight irritation I encountered when I increased the frequency of use too soon. The directions tell you to start off using it only two times per week and to slowly increase your usage to every day. That’s something you should pay attention to! After a full month of using this product my skin is definitely in better shape.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 Gel Treatment is an effective product that’s backed by real science. At $54.95 it is not cheap, but it is cheaper than other concentrated retinol formulas out there, like philosophy Help Me Retinol or Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 at $60 and up. If you’re in the market for a retinol cream I suggest you give this one a try.
FutureDerm Time Release Retinol 0.5 Ingredients
0.5% Retinol, Aqua, Glycerin (hydrator), Alcohol (thins the solution), Octyldodecanol (emulsifier), Butylene Glycol (thins the solution), cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (emulsifier), Allyl Metacrylates Crosspolymer (film-forming agent), Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Salix Alba Bark Extract (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (anti-inflammatory), BHT (antioxidant), Tocopherol (antioxidant), PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (emollient), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (thickening agent), Triethanolamine (pH adjuster), Propylene Glycol (thins the solution), Diazolidinyl Urea (antimicrobial preservative), Propylparaben (antimicrobial preservative), Methylparaben (antimicrobial preservative).
Disclaimer:
We were compensated for writing this post but all the opinions provided are our own. You should always do your own research before buying any of the products we blog about.
FutureDerm is offering a special 15% off for all Beauty Brains readers – click here and use coupon code TheBeautyBrains now through January 21, 2013.
{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }
the code doesn’t work for me. it says “Unable to find a valid discount matching the code entered “. maybe there’s a mistake?
It seems to me this cream has too much alcohol only to thin the emulsion, and it can be irritant. Considering the prize of the cream, they could have used some other thinner better for the skin.
Pazit, I’ll check on this for you.
I think its really cool how she formulated this to solve a lot of the issues people have with retinols.
I’ve been using Paula’s Choice retinol, and it irritates my skin if I use it every day. (It’s a good product, it’s just that my skin is more sensitive than average.) I’m considering ordering this Futurederm retinol when I run out.
I admire Nicki Zevola for being an entrepeuner with her website and now this cream.
I think for the price, this product should contain way more antioxidants and anti irritants and less alcohol.
FutureDerm and Paula Begoun have apparently clashed on the issue of alcohol (ethanol) in cosmetics:
http://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=10150904101969004
I read what both said and feel that Paula has presented a stronger scientific argument than FutureDerm. But there seems to be little research about topical use of alcohol.
The above argument is mostly about free-radical damage to skin (i.e. the aging effects). But there are more issues. Is alcohol irritating and harmful for skin in general? Does alcohol in cosmetics also dilate capillaries in couperose skin? And what about alcohol used in sunscreens (exposed to UV-rays)? And what about the concentrations of ethanol, is there a difference in effects?
Dear BB, what is your take on the issue?
In the interest of accurate reporting, Skinceuticals Retinol .5 is $54.00 (I just purchased it two days ago at a Blue Mercury store).
FutureDerm’s product sounds great; I know I’ve had outstanding results for many years with the Skinceuticals .5 product, and had actually tried their 1.0 version and found it was too harsh for me even at 2x per week.
Regarding PC – I think she makes some good products, but her biases can be extreme. Mintaka, you should look on FutureDerm for the discussion regarding the mixing of retinol with AHA’s, BHA’s and vitamin C. This is another area where PC differs in her philosophy on skincare from FutureDerm, and I think FutureDerm has it right. Throwing everything but the kitchen sink (so to speak) into a skincare formulation just because the ingredients separately are good, doesn’t mean they will work together well.
Susan, I don’t agree with everything Paula says, but I think the bias argument is used too often to dismiss her less than popular opinions. After reading Mintaka’s link to Paula’s Facebook page, the article about alcohol is more or less a discussion of research, not selling her products or opinions, with this follow up article by Paula with even more research
http://www.facebook.com/notes/paulas-choice-inc/alcohol-in-skin-care-products-its-still-bad-news/10151142710969004.
It’s hard to argue with this last one, and the timing of Futurederms opinion of alcohol in skin care as harmless is, let’s be honest, coinciding with the release of her alcohol-based retinol, right?
The bias argument isn’t really applicable in Paula’s argument I think, and Futurederm seemed to call her out first. Really, we could say that all researchers are selling something, whether its to be published or grant eligibility, but that’s why its important to look at the research behind the hypothesis. As far as mixing retinol with AHA’s, BHA’s and vitamin C, Paula addressed that with the research here
http://www.facebook.com/notes/paulas-choice-inc/the-truth-about-using-retinol-with-aha-bha-and-vitamin-c/10151246226879004
I was disappointed in Futurederms argument about not using them together, which lacked so much of the evidence that Paula brought. I would like to see Futurederm talk about the studies that Paula cited.
Totally agree with Jack. Besides, I think Nicki Zevola is trying to confuse customers by lumping all alcohols together (when she says Why do Paula’s products contain alcohols?). For a person without a chemistry background it is difficult to understand why ethanol and cetearyl alcohol are so different if they both are alcohols, but I guess Nicki must know about the difference and their very different properties very well, and really, I didn’t like her attitude at all.
Looks like a great product! I’m anxious to try it!