Uma asks…Could you please help with these two products (Phillip Kingsley’s Elasticizer and Phytodefrisant)…are they nourishing or just bunch of silicones?
The Beauty Brains respond:
First, let’s be clear about what “nourish” means in the context of hair care.
Is there a difference between “nourish” and “condition”?
You can nourish garden plants by adding water and fertilizer to the soil they grow from. But hair that has already grown out from your scalp can’t be nourished like that because it’s dead. All you can really do is condition it. The definition of conditioning, according to “Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin,” is as follows:
A product can be said to have conditioning properties if it improves the quality of the surface to which it is applied particularly if this improvement involves correction or prevention of some aspects of surface damage.
This point is often lost because the cosmetic industry has uses so many synonyms for condition but when it comes to hair, condition, nourish, moisturize, revitliaze, replenish, restore, vitalize, all basically mean the same thing.
Which ingredients provide the best conditioning?
While it’s true that some conditioning agents (like coconut oil) do have the ability to penetrate hair and help strengthen from within, the vast majority of ingredients work by coating the hair. If left on the hair, almost any kind of oil will provide some degree of conditioning but they can also leave hair feeling greasy and weighed down. Other ingredients, like cationic conditioners and silicones, are designed to remain on the hair after rinsing and they provide superior lubricity and shine.
Elasticizer versus Phytodefrisant
The Phillip Kingsley product is a relatively standard rinse out conditioning treatment which is based on silicones and cationic polymers. The Phtyo product, on the other hand, doesn’t contain any traditional conditioning agents. It’s all plant extracts and is designed to give your hair texture during heat styling. Since it’s not rinsed out the starchy plant materials are left in the hair where they will provide texture. There’s no scientific data, however, to back up their claim that the “Straightening effect is cumulative with continued use.” So, if you want the most “nourishment” for your hair, Elasticizer will give you the most benefit. If you want an all “natural” styling product, then try the Phytodefrisant Botanical Hair Relaxing Balm.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
In reality, silicones are just as “nourishing” as any other ingredient that you can put on your hair.
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