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Collagen Serum: Look at the label

Collagen Serum by Sublime Beauty is one of the top selling cosmetics on Amazon.com. Let’s look at the label to see what makes it work.

Collagen Serum ingredients

Aloe leaf juice
Aloe is a little suspicious as the first ingredient because typically the first ingredient in a cream or lotion is water. Some companies hide the fact that they’re using water by adding reconstituted aloe powder diluted with water. I don’t know for a fact that that’s the case here but like I said it’s suspicious.

Hyroxyethyl urea
Not to be petty about this but note that the spelling is wrong on this one, it should be “hydroxyethyl urea” I don’t point that out to be nitpicky but I think it’s important to note where companies are accurate in their ingredient lists. You’ll see a couple more errors at the end of this list. Unfortunately I can’t tell if the error came from the company itself or just through transcription to Amazon.com. In any case urea is an excellent moisturizing agent and is part of the skin’s own Natural Moisturizing Factor.

Ethoxydiglycol
A solvent similar to propylene glycol.

Coco-glucoside, glyceryl oleate
These are surfactants that help the oil and water-soluble components mix together.

Hydroxypropyltrimomium honey
This is a specially modified version of honey that is designed to stick to skin. Supposedly it helps bind moisture but there are other ingredients that are much more effective.

Panthenol
When used it high enough levels panthenol can provide some benefits to hair and skin.

Sodium hyaluronate
This is the salt form of hyaluronic acid which ( assuming it’s the right molecular weight) can do a good job of binding moisture to skin.

Sclerotium gum, Lentinula edodes
These are two mushroom derived ingredients contained in this formula. This first is primarily a thickening and a emulsion stabilizing agent but it also purportedly is a good film former and will help seal moisture in the skin. The second is an extract from shiitake mushrooms. Similar mushroom extracts there is some data which indicates mushroom extracts have skin lightening properties.

Hexapeptide-11, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-3
Together these three peptides of real “powerhouse” of this formula. While the date is hardly conclusive, there is evidence to suggest these peptides can stimulate collagen production. However most of the testing has done in vitro, on skin cells, instead of on living skin.

Panax gingseng root extract
Natural extract that does nothing for skin.

Phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, methylisothiazolinone, sodium gluconate
These form the preservative system for the product

Hydrolyzed collagen
I guess they had this ingredient just so the word “collagen” shows up somewhere on the ingredient list. It certainly adds no value since hydrolyzed collagen (that means college and it’s chopped up into itsy-bitsy pieces) does nothing when applied topically to skin.

hydrolyzed elastin

Xantan, disodium
Chalk this one up to another typo. I assume “Xantan” actually refers to xanthan gum which is a thickening agent. And “disodium” by itself means nothing so there must be some other word missing here.

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