Ask the Beauty Brains - Beauty Questions Answered

How to sort good ingredients from bad

ladyamare — Thu, 16 May 2013 23:18:40 -0400

Hello Beauty Brains! First off, I wanted to thank you for this wonderful blog. My question involves how to sort through all the different things we see on the ingredient lists of products we are investigating. I know it would be easier to know what all the ingredients are, what they do, and how beneficial or detrimental they are if I were a cosmetic chemist, but is there any guide or list of the different ingredients and their descriptions? For example, the list of sulfates you gave in the "Are You Silicone Savvy?" article.

Going from Brown to Blond

cyw — Tue, 21 May 2013 13:09:08 -0400

I currently am a medium brunette and want to become a medium blond.
I would like to try going without bleach by using boxed dyes in a light ash blond.
Would there be enough lift or am I better off using bleach
Any advice and pros/cons would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

Marula Oil

lindygirl1960 — Tue, 14 May 2013 11:33:24 -0400

Are products like Marula Oil a good source of antioxidants to use daily under sunscreen (physical block - zinc oxide - spf 30) to help fight free radicals and, possibly, infrared rays?

Marula Oil is supposed to have vitamins C and E. Or would it be best to just stick with the vitamin C&E serums?

Follow-Up to Read and Interpret Product Ingredients

Graytemples — Wed, 15 May 2013 19:31:49 -0400

Hello Beauty Brains:

Thank you for responding to my query re. Rare Elements and Phylia de M hair products. I now have the ingredient list for Phylia de M Condition and Connect.

Connect: Water, Ethyl Alcohol, Aloe Essence, Hydrogenated Triterpene Mixture, Fulvic Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Condition: Water, Quartamin 60, Silicon 929, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Alcohol, Wheat Protein, Pola Wax, Urtica Essence, Aloe Essence, Fulvic Acid, Rosemary Oil, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Chamomile Essence, Phenoxyethanol

What is your take on these ingredients? What role do they play? I've never heard of some of them.

I look forward to your comments.

Graytemples

clean shampoo with pyrithione zinc

wixta — Mon, 13 May 2013 22:00:16 -0400

Does natural shampoo with active ingredient pyrithione zinc exist?
I currently use Head and Shoulders but would like to find sulfate free shampoo. I tried to go no poo (just baking soda, or hand made natural shampoo bars) but even though my hair look great after one month my scalp was very unhappy and flaky. Also tried to rub coconut oil on scalp, or jojoba oil or teat tree oil. Nothing helps except shampoo with pyrithione zinc.

Is kenra volume 25 hairspray that good?

srg01 — Tue, 14 May 2013 14:36:47 -0400

hello brains,

Is there a cheaper substitute for Kenra Volume 25 hair spray? The website claims its an excellent anti-humidity spray. The product has great reviews on Amazon. Its little expensive though and I wondering if I could find a similar but cheaper version.

key Ingredients: (from their website)

Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer An advanced non-flaking resin that provides maximum hold and curl retention. This resin has excellent humidity resistance. Aminomethyl Propanol A neutralizing agent that improves the re-wetting / re-styling ability of the hair

Thanks for the help

Different sulfates, different results?

tdb7297 — Sun, 12 May 2013 21:39:15 -0400

I was in the drugstore comparing the ingredients between two shampoos, one targeted for African American hair types.
1. Cantu Shea Butter Moisturizing Cream Shampoo has ammonium lauryl sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate as the second and third ingredient respectively.
2. Pantene Pro V Moisture Renewal Shampoo for normal to thick hair has sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate as the second and third ingredients respectively.
When I shampoo with the Cantu, no itchy flakes after I blow dry. The last time I tried a shampoo with the sodium sulfates, flakes for days.
Could it be the sodium sulfates or something else in the shampoo causing the itchiness and flakes?
Thanks

blackheads and big pores help!

yuliafaye — Tue, 14 May 2013 09:14:16 -0400

I have a problem regarding blackheads on the nose and big pores between my eyebrows.

Aloe Vera Juice and Gel and when to preserve

bertashija — Tue, 07 May 2013 12:55:00 -0400

If I mix Aloe Vera Juice or Gel with conditioner or a styler, do I have to refrigerate the mixed concoction?

IRA Sunscreen

Al — Sun, 12 May 2013 19:36:40 -0400

Hi there,

lately in Spain I've seen people raging about infrared targeted sunscreens, products that protect from IRA rays...is this necessary at all? Does it have some basis or is it mere marketing gimmick? Should I buy one? :)

Example : http://dermapproved.com/blog/your-sunscreen-is-likely-missing-ira-protection-get-the-facts

<<In addition, antioxidants have also been shown to protect against IRA. Antioxidants that are typically used in sunscreens are comprised of vitamins, (such as Vitamin C and E) and Polyphenols (ex. flavonoids and procyanidins) are present in numerous foods and have been demonstrated to provide protective properties through direct application to the skin.^7,8>>

Sources are:

7. Allemann IB, Baumann L. Botanicals in skin care products. Int J Dermatol 48(9):923-34 (2009 Sep).

8. Krutmann J, Yarosh D. Modern photoprotection of human skin. In: Gilchrest BA, Krutmann J (eds). Skin aging. New York: Springer, p103-12 (2006).

I searched the web and found nothing related to IRA but topics regarding iron straighteners, so I ask for your pardon if you have alredy answered this.

Thanks in advance.

Is My Trusty Hair Gel Okay?

neroli77 — Sat, 11 May 2013 18:08:12 -0400

I use lots of mega-hold gel, to compensate for fine, thin hair with some hair loss caused by what turned out to be severe B12 deficiency. Just the other day a hairdresser told me this can't hurt my hair, and then I stumbled on the blog here, where it says it can if you brush with it in, i.e., it just causes yanking hair out.

I try to be careful when I comb - only use a pick anyway. So is my trying to be careful enough? Seriously, I was also told I can't get my usual uneven layers until my hair is thicker again, so I don't need to make things worse while trying to disguise the thinness!

Guess this just comes down to is being careful enough, with (cheap) mega-hold gel, when you have a real thinning/hair loss issue?

Plant stem cells

kris10_mason — Fri, 10 May 2013 16:00:53 -0400

I am noticing that plant stem cells are popping up in a number of skin and hair care products recently. I cannot find much info as to any efficacy beyond marketing information from the companies of said products. Any information is appreciated!

Hair Growth

hemiqueen — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 10:06:05 -0400

I know this question may sound weird but can you actually feel when your hair grow?

26 seconds to absorb into bloodstream?

rainytigermouth — Mon, 04 Feb 2013 15:01:55 -0500

Hi Beauty Brains,
I've read your previous blog posts on our exposure to cosmetic chemicals, but was wondering what your view is on the information flying around the internet that it takes 26 seconds to absorb chemicals from cosmetics into your bloodstream. All of these posters claim this statistic is based on 'studies', but I have yet to see a study which demonstrates this. As many of the chemicals in our cosmetics cannot be absorbed at all, I can't help but wonder if this is a myth. What do you think?

Is there a way I can make my hair conditioner a thicker consistency?

Tue, 07 May 2013 02:31:05 -0400

I absolutely LOVE my Vidal Sassoon Moisture Lock Shampoo and Conditioner, but I wish the conditioner was a slightly creamier consistency. Is there anything I can do to thicken up the formula at home? Thanks!!

Silicones in skincare (and scar reduction) - good, right? Help!

bccodes — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 00:04:22 -0400

I was under the impression that silicones in skincare (lotions, creams etc) were good because they help create a barrier for moisture. My facial moisturizer has a silicone, as does my body lotion (baby lotion - cheap and great for sensitive skin). I also use silicone sheeting for a hypertrophic scar from a surgery a year and a half ago. From what I gather, studies are sort of inconclusive as to why silicone works for scars (probably something about occlusion(sp?)), but silicone gives unparalleled results as far as scar reduction.

I was watching a review of a silicone free face primer, and I got to googling. Silicones are being blamed for everything! I don't use silicones in my hair products because I have dry hair and a sensitive scalp - shampoos with sulfates are not my cup of tea. I understand that over time, silicone can build up on hair if not properly removed, and since I do not use a harsh shampoo, I go without them. But I use a regular face cleanser and body wash, so I don't see why using a face cream or body lotion with dimethicone would be a problem. Especially considering the scar healing functionality of silicone sheeting, wouldn't silicones in skincare be a good thing?

Help a girl out!

mattifying gel

luluswish — Tue, 07 May 2013 17:39:35 -0400

I recently used Peter Thomas Roth mattifying gel at an outdoor photo shoot. I used the products in this order, all silicon based...primer, foundation, mattifying gel. It looked good and then once the actress got outside in the cold her skin started to look uneven, splotchy, and dry. Help! Maybe I should of moisturized her, duh!!!!!!!!!!

herbal hair rinses: pointless or useful in scalp health?

duchessgummybuns — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 23:00:08 -0400

since i am still trying to figure out how to deal with a not so wonderful scalp i have been trying out the rosemary tea rinse and want to add mint to the mixture. Supposedly rosemary helps with hair growth & mint helps with scalp issues and i was wondering if that could be helpful or harmful to my scalp? is there anything benifical or am i wasting my poor plants??!!

was looking for a new day cream

kuldkollane — Mon, 06 May 2013 20:16:30 -0400

Hi!

So, according to http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17015167 octocrylene protects your skin from UVB, but after a bit of time increases photosensitivity (I'm somewhat bad at biology, though, please correct me if I misinterpreted that). But wait! There's avobenzone as well! Well, the label says Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, but that's avobenzone, right? So octocrylene makes the avobenzone somewhat photostable, right? But won't the increase in photosensitivity cancel that out?

Full ingredients: Aqua/Water/Eau, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycerin, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Rhus Vernici.ua Peel Wax, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Coco-Glucoside, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Sucrose, Sucrose Distearate, Alanine, Arginine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, C20-22 Alcohols, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citronellol, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Oleate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Lecithin, Linalool, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Mourera Fluviatilis Extract, Parfum (Fragrance), PCA, Quercetin Caprylate, Quercus Robur Bark Extract, Serine, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Gluceptate, Threonine, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum.

(So yeah, basically almond oil and glycerine with sunscreen?)

And since I know the product can be googled by it's ingredients and the question might pop up - no, I was not looking for an all natural paraben-free not tested on animals (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - not tested on animals, really?) vegan cosmetics when I came across this. I just liked the bottle. :(

I'd really appreciate if you cleared up that sunscreen thing for me though. I'd use my regular sunblock with it anyway, but it just irks me to no end.

Good/bad barrier?

NicciWeasley — Sun, 05 May 2013 07:58:23 -0400

So... I've seen the same arguent for both sides of a case several times now, and I was hoping you could shed a little light for me here.
The topic here is skincare ingredients that "sit on top" of the skin.
On one side, people claim that ingredients like silicones, SPFs and mineral oils, because they just cover the skin instead of being absorbed, can hinder other ingredients from being absorbed as well. On the other side, I hear people say that these ingredients are beneficial because they create a barrier between your skin and the environment.

My questions then are:
First, are the more expensive plant oils more absorbable than mineral oils, or do they all just sit on top of the skin?
And is it possible for e.g. SPF, silicones or oils in a moisturiser to create a barrier stopping other ingredients from being absorbed??

Hope you can help.
- Nicci

Is it true that excessive/daily hair product usage can cause hair loss?

JanelleK — Sat, 04 May 2013 16:57:23 -0400

My mom and sister are big supporters of the theory that excessive use of hair products (E.g: Hairsprays, shampoos, gels, etc) are the reason why my hair is falling out/isn't so thick. In general, can usage of these gels and hairsprays every day cause hair loss? I don't shampoo more than twice a week, but I do use hairspray and gel on my hair every day. Are they correct, or is this an old wives tale?

Can L'oreal Youth Code Eye Cream Intensify Dark Circles?

greenbeenz — Wed, 27 Jul 2011 15:50:53 -0400

I've been wanting to try L'oreal youth code eye cream because the majority of reviews are quite positive. I'm always skeptical of under eye treatments but so many people claim to see a difference it's tempting. However, out of the negative reviews one thing keeps coming up. People say that the cream has intensified their dark under eye circles to the point where they are dark purple and look like actual black eyes. Is there something in this product that can actually cause that and if so, what is the mechanism that causes it?

Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Squalane, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, PEG 100 Stearate, Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Beeswax), Glyceryl Stearate, Nylon 66, Propylene Glycol, Honey, PEG 20 Stearate, Algae (Seaweed) Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher's Broom) Extract (Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract), Glycine Soja Protein (Soybean Protein), Caffeine, Isohexadecane, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Silica, Cholesterol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Panthenol, Fagus Sylvatica Extract (Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract), Polysilicone 8, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide (Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer), Acrylates Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Methylparaben, Phenoxylethanol, Digluconate, Ethylparaben, CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Sodium Benzoate

Product description:

Reduces signs of stress, fatigue and aging10 years of gene researchNon-greasyDermatologist tested for gentlenessYouth regenerating skincareFragrance freeOphthalmologist testedDiscover an innovation derived from gene science.
The breakthrough genactiv technology in this potent daily eye treatment boosts skin's natural powers of regeneration so it regains the qualities of young skin. Skin looks rested, smoother and youthfully luminous. A unique metal-tip applicator cools as it de-puffs under-eye bags. Light diffusing micro-pearls illuminate dark circles. Breakthrough genactiv technology helps increase skin's natural powers of regeneration, boosting skin's own capacity for recovery. The cooling massage applicator tip delivers instant de-puffing action for under-eye bags, while lightweight micro-pearls brighten and smooth.

Thanks.

I want to go blonde

Pixydust — Wed, 01 May 2013 03:15:59 -0400

I recently colored my hair with loreal excellence medium beige blonde, it didn't go the color I wanted it to in fact it looks darker

than the dark blonde color I had on it. can anyone tell me if loreal feria 3x light beige blonde 91 will lighten my medium blonde hair to

a light blonde even though id be putting it on top of dye????

LaseResults® Calm & Restore Serum $85

SugarCaned — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 03:14:47 -0400

I fell in love with this product during a testing from a magazine that I participated in. I would love to find out what is in it that works so well to soothe my face and make it look absolutely amazing and feel baby soft. (Hopefully in a lower-priced product) I have extremely sensitive, combination skin with acne scars. I'm under 30.

Here are the ingredients:

Ingredients:: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone,
Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquuioxane, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG/PPG-14
Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-11, Neopentyl Glycol
Diheptanoate, Sodium Choride, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root
Extract, Glutathione, Gluconolactone, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-7, Resveratol, Hydroxyproline, Whey Protein, Sodium
Hyaluronate, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Petasites Japonicus Root
Extract, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Linoleic Acid, Triolein,
Tocopheryl Acetate, Oleic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitic
Acid, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Dimethiconol, PEG-100
Stearate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA,
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

Dark Bags Under the Eyes

murkybubble — Mon, 05 Jan 2009 11:47:55 -0500

I get dark shadows under my eyes that always make me look tired even when I've gotten plenty of sleep. Concealer just doesn't seem to do the trick covering them, so I was hoping there was a product (or products) that can prevent them or make them go away, instead of just covering them up. Are there any products like this, and more importantly, do they WORK?

Help with bags under eyes that never go away

ramata — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 15:22:55 -0500

I have bags under my eyes all the time, regardless of whether I've gotten enough sleep or not. I think it's probably hereditary, as my mother and grandmother both had them. I don't have dark circles (so all the posts for dark circles don't really apply). I have the puffy bags. Is there any way to minimize them with creams or at least minimize their appearance with some sort of make up? I don't mind paying money for a decent cream if it really works. I've recently tried the arbonne eye cream for about 5 weeks and haven't noticed any difference. If it matters, I generally don't wear any makeup, so I wouldn't want to use makeup that stands out against the rest of my face. Thanks for any suggestions!

Consumer Reports Magazine re: eye creams

bluecatbaby — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 10:29:13 -0400

I LOVE Consumer Reports Magazine and their website which has the content of the magazine plus more. I just read an article from their October issue about their ratings of several brands of eye creams. I am so pleased to see this fairly scientific research applied to eye creams. I love that their findings repeat what the BBs have told us, that price is not an indicator of how well a product works. Since I have (ahem) a few eye wrinkles I will look into trying one that they rate higher. I have been using Paula's Choice Super-antioxidant, Cerave lotion and, at night, Cerave cream. Here is a link to the Consumer Reports website article:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine-archive/october-2009/health/eye-creams/overview/eye-creams-ov.htm.
This link is to their page of product ratings: http://www.consumerreports.org/health/healthy-living/beauty-personal-care/cosmetics/wrinkle-creams/eye-creams/ratings/eye-creams-ratings.htm
What do BB forum readers think about this article?

Please Help Me Go Blonder!! :)

Pixydust — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 04:28:05 -0400

I recently dyed my hair with loreal excellence medium beige blonde and my hair

is basically a dark blonde now with a slight orange tint at the top. I am disappointed because I wanted to get

to a pretty blonde color. it isn't medium blonde at all. I want to go blonder, what color would you suggest to get to a pretty blonde??

not Marilyn Monroe white blonde but pretty soft blonde that is light. and also ive heard that it wont lighten if I put a color on top of a color how can I

go about coloring my hair lighter with boxed dye because I don't want to bleach it. thank you :)

Sunscreen/Nanosomes penetration

Al — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 12:37:43 -0400

Hi there :)

I have a question, lately I've seen some people arguing about using nanosomes, liposomes and this "new" stuff which potentiates the penetration of some actives into the dermis regarding sunscreen penetration. They say that when pairing sunscreen with those you get the sunscreen active into the dermis and that it may be toxic/dangerous. Is this posible?

I've found some information about physical sunscreens and if I've understood they do not penetrate even if nanosomed they are not toxic at that size:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18523411

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2835875/#R25

Can it be dangerous to mix some for example serum containing this technology and then using my sunscreen wich mixes both physical and chemical sunscreen agents? I'd like to know if I have understood right and your opinion about the chances of this happening.

Thanks in advance, and pardon my english since it's not my mother languaje :)

Greetings

Eye Creams

chefmeche — Sat, 06 Dec 2008 17:01:50 -0500

Is it really necessary to use special creams under the eyes? If so, what ingredients should one look for?