Ask the Beauty Brains - Beauty Questions Answered

Oxidised vitamin C serum - dangerous or just useless?

Bex26 — Fri, 22 Feb 2013 19:15:53 -0500

Hi there! I've just joined the site and I love that it's so scientifically accurate :x

I have a question about vitamin C serums. It's generally known that if you're mixing your own serum with ascorbic acid, it isn't going to stay potent for long because it gets oxidised. So I was reading on various beauty blogs that this oxidised vitamin C will not only do no good, it can actually HARM your skin. Apparently the dehydroascorbic acid "creates free radicals". I've been searching and searching and I can't find any scientific back up for this, it's just repeated by lots of serum reviewers!

Another thing I was wondering was, how long does it take vitamin C to fully oxidise and become dehydroascorbic acid? Because in all my googling I came across people asking how they could make their own DHA, and the answers were a lot more complicated than just "leave vitamin C lying around getting air to it"!

Also, am I right in thinking that it's best to use distilled water for the mix because that has less oxygen in it than plain old tap water, or is there a other reason? I've also been told that mixing it with a metal spoon oxidises it...

Sorry for sooooo many questions! I just want to make sure I won't be harming my skin!

Science behind "Water Only/ WO" hair washing method?

rustybag — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 10:40:27 -0500

Is there any science behind the "water only" hair washing method (or for that matter, "water only" for washing the body). It seems that many people claim it makes their hair healthier, but is using water only really cleaning the hair and scalp? What do you think of this "water only" movement?

Silicone Weights

neroli77 — Sun, 17 Feb 2013 01:24:36 -0500

I know there are different weights for silicones, and wonder what difference it makes in products, for instance what's better for hair vs. skin, and what difference do the different weights make?

I found the article about Dimethicone Copolyol not weighing hair down, and a hefty article about new silicones here: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/antiaging/34408409.html?page=1

I'm hoping there's a simpler answer that can help sort out the basics. Anything about clues for reading labels would be a nice bonus too, for instance I always remember "ampho" generally means amphoteric, etc.

Does changing your pillow case often help prevent acne?

needleusesman — Sat, 12 Jan 2013 17:26:11 -0500

Tell me the truth beauty brainiacs!

Does the featured complex of this antiaging cream make it unique?

starchild — Fri, 08 Feb 2013 03:14:27 -0500

The product is called Restorsea (http://www.restorsea.com/Restorsea-Rejuvenating-Day-Cream/dp/B008OIUXQG?utm_source=affiliate129905&utm_medium=affiliatef&source=webgains&siteid=129905#.URSyTvI0-So) here's what it says about the featured complex "VibranseaTM, our proprietary patent-pending complex fueled by a natural enzyme released during the baby salmon hatching process." Thanks for being one of the few blogs which totes critical thinking, I appreciate it.

helpppp

taylor6 — Sat, 16 Feb 2013 11:24:49 -0500

i have farwell in 2 days i realli need to look fair n pretty wat should i do ... i am allegric to make up ... so help me out plz

Ultrasonic facials

Jenjen3770 — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 18:41:06 -0500

Do ultrasonic facials do anything of real value? The therapist who gave me one said it really cleans out pores.

AOR Cosmaderm Cream Can this cream be used as every day facial moisturizer

hin — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 22:22:41 -0500

LINK:http://www.cureself.com/aor-cosmaderm-cream.aspx

Can this be used as a facial moisturizer and undereye too I am only concerned about one ingredient Psoralea Corylifolia as it is mentioned( Topical application of Psoralea increases the production of melanin).I dont have any hypopigmentation problem,I want to give this a try for anti-aging purposes I do have some fine lines and sundamage(agespots)on my face ,the above ingredient concerned me.I am really impressed by other ingredients in the cream and just found it while searching a supplement this cream is not marketed in mainstream at all that's why I feel like buying this, what is your suggestion?Thanks

Are these silk baby sunscreen wipes the safest bet for my child?

concernedmother — Thu, 14 Feb 2013 03:49:57 -0500

I am afraid because I hear how dangerous sunblock is but this stuff here says its natural and made of silk would this be a good substitute?
https://www.mdmoms.com/ProductDetails.php?PID=230&CID=2

Do ingredients in drugs like Retin A really "expire", or do they get more potent over time?

JanelleK — Thu, 14 Feb 2013 22:32:30 -0500

I have a tube of Retin A that is due to expire in about 3 weeks. I know I will not be able to finish the whole tube by then, and will be forced to use it after the expiry date. I've heard people say that drugs can often get more potent over time, so the expiry date is just "something the manufacturers have to slap on." Is this true? I know people will say to get another tube, but it is quite expensive, and I would like to know if it is worth using after the expiry date, or are the drug companies telling the truth when they put the expiry dates on?

Thank you!

How Can You Be Sure of a Company's Active Ingredient Percentage? Questioning Brand XY

BAlexandria — Mon, 04 Feb 2013 23:20:01 -0500

How Can You Be Sure of a
Company's Active Ingredient Percentage? I honestly don't think there is a way
to estimate this, but then again I am not a scientist and thought it would not
hurt to ask.

Specifically, I recently
found it puzzling that brand XY’s "Brown
Spot Skin Lightening Night Cream for All Skin Types" did NOT list the
hydroquinone percentage on their Night Cream package, but did so on their Day Cream
package (1%). So, why report the proposed efficiency level i.e. the Active
Ingredient Percentage inconsistently?!? I found later that the percentage is
2%, but I am now feeling I should have just made a purchase that listed it prominently.
#buyers.remorse.

Here are the ingredients: Purified Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Monostearate, Isopropyl
Palmitate, Hydroquinone, Glycerin (Veg.), Stearic Acid, Dilauryl
Thiodipropionate, Citric Acid, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Methyl
& Propyl Paraben, Natural Oil Fragrance

Beauty Brains, please offer an insight into why
there might be a difference in Active Ingredient Percentage on Packaging within
the same 1. brand and product line and 2. any general hypothesis on how
effective this formula may be.

Thank you advance! And thanks for this Awesome
Blog!!!

*Because of my experience with the packaging, I did
refer to the brand as Brand XY, but there is enough information here to figure
out which it is if anyone is for some reason curious.

Herbal Essences Totally Twisted Curl Define & Hold Creme: It is Less Damaging than a Holding Spray?

BAlexandria — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 17:01:38 -0500

How does this product work?

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer,
Triethanolamine, Dimethiconol, PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride,
Ceteth 20, Fragrance, DMDM Hydantoin, Disodium EDTA, Iodopropynyl
Butylcarbamate, Silk Extract

What is VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer? Is it related to vinyl as we/most consumers know it?

And, is this formula less drying/damaging than a holding spray?

Nivea Creme: Lets hear it.

Wade — Sat, 02 Feb 2013 17:50:29 -0500

Hello all,

Just wondering what Nivea "Creme" is. I have heard that it was the first modern moisturizer, so it must have something going for it... I have been using Vaseline (petrolatum) as a whole-body moisturizer and was wondering if Nivea Creme would be more effective. How does it compare to petrolatum's TEWL rating? Thoughts? Comments? Thanks!

SAFERCHEMICALS.ORG fear mongering or valid scientific resource?

starchild — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 01:25:14 -0500

I find this site very biased and I noticed that this was the site linked to to support a claim in an article rozy posted on here: http://everydayfeminism.com/2013/02/health-impact-of-toxic-chemicals-in-communities-of-color/

This is the site: http://everydayfeminism.com/2013/02/health-impact-of-toxic-chemicals-in-communities-of-color/
and this is the link that was posted to support the claim that "Mounting scientific reveals that chemicals in our air, water and everyday products—from our sofa to our soap — are harming our reproductive health and fertility."
and heres the actual link to a brochure type thing- http://saferchemicals.org/PDF/chemicals-and-our-health-july-2012.pdf

Is butyl alcohol the possible drying kind of alcohol?

pedrom. — Sun, 10 Feb 2013 21:25:32 -0500

Is butyl alcohol the possible drying kind of alcohol?

TKS.

Anyone else hate Lush?

rozy — Fri, 01 Feb 2013 23:03:02 -0500

I hate how their products are so offensively strong smelling that you can smell it from other parts of the mall, I hate how overpriced their products are, the poor performance, the "slackivism" of having people believe buying their stuff will change the world and most of all I hate their sexist publicity stunt where they compared animal testing to torturing women. After that I was so offended I am never going to buy one of their products ever. It is also annoying I have not gotten full use out of a lot of their products because they are not preserved properly. They capitalize off well meaning people who want "cruelty free" and natural etc... rubs me the wrong way. There is nothing progressive about them, they are just another company who wants to make money.

(lush's campaign that turned me off them forever) http://msmagazine.com/blog/2012/04/27/no-comment-lush-protests-torture-of-animals-with-simulated-torture-of-women/comment-page-1/#comment-102639

BB Creams

ranabow — Sun, 10 Feb 2013 12:43:00 -0500

To me this just sounds like a marketing fad, like mineral powder was a few years ago. The idea that a product can do everything in one step sounds nice in theory, but probably isn't realistic in practice. For one thing, I do not wear the same amount of makeup as I do sunscreen or moisturizer. So if I'm only putting on enough to even out my skin, I won't be putting on enough to moisturize or protect my skin. But if I apply more, it would look and feel way too heavy. This is just a supposition, but I'm guessing these products are, at best, able to do one or two things well. Unfortunately my go-to product has been discontinued and replaced with a BB cream. I hoped it was just their old stuff repackaged, but it comes in fewer shades and the coverage and staying power isn't as good. It just seems to try and do too many things and fails at all of them. So what's the consensus? Here's the ingredient list for the BB cream that replaced my beloved tinted moisturizer:

Active Ingredients: 5% Titanium Dioxide , 5% zinc oxide.

Other Ingredients: Aqua, cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, glycerin, dimethicone, aluminum hydroxide, stearic acid, triethoxycaprylylsilane, calcium sodium phosphosilicate, saccharum offcinarum (sugar cane) extract, pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract, citrus medica limonum (lemon) fruit extract, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) fruit extract, camellia oleifera leaf extract, panax ginseng root extract, ginkgo biloba root extract, anthemis nobilis leaf extract, kaolin, phytantriol, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, tretrahexyldecyl ascorbate, boron nitride, palmitic acid, dextrin palmitate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium chloride, sodium dehydroacetate, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol. (+/-): Iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), mica.

I'm 52. Now what?

ktward — Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:11:36 -0500

Quick recap of my facial skincare history:

- I've never been a Sun Goddess. This is due to equal parts of A) fair skin which, even with sunscreen, burns before it tans and I seriously hated the ugly burn phase, and B) just too dang busy.

- Starting mid-30's, once daily AHA use. (Longtime Alpha Hydrox user.)

- Starting early-40's, AHA in the a.m. and Retinol in the p.m. (Retinol: Roc and Neutrogena at first, but back to Alpha Hydrox the last handful of years. I love that little CO-based company.)

I can't include a photo here, though I'm happy to send one- you have but to ask. But any folks who don't know me who, for one reason or another, manage to learn my age express surprise. They think I'm in my 30's. My 21yo daughter and I are regularly mistaken for sisters. (Granted, these are folks who see my skin only from the chest up. One glance at my saggy knees and the gig is totally up.)

Anyhoo, it's been a very long while since I did my last lit review when it comes to [ageing] skin care, but near as I can tell AHA and Retinol are still the anti-wrinkle standards. However, I'm seeing a lot of talk about peptides. And don't get me wrong, I love love love Diane Keaton, but I don't see any legit lit on whatever is the topical calcium she's peddling.

Like I said, I'm 52. Now what?

Should I also be incorporating some kind of peptide thing into my daily regimen? (Copper peptide looked promising, but Neutrogena has since discontinued that line so I guess it proved to be a dud - ?)

I need some BB input; as a former marketing/advertising professional, I'm altogether predisposed to ignoring the stuff peddled on TeeVee, I need a science-based fix.

What effects does oversleeping have on skin

rozy — Thu, 07 Feb 2013 18:44:57 -0500

Hello I see a lot of articles of the effecting of under sleeping on the skin as this is understandably more common, but I have hypersomia which is basically the opposite of insomnia so I often sleep for 20 hrs straight no lie and still feel completely weak and exhausted when I wake up. I have noticed bruise like bags under my eyes but what are the effects on skin & beauty in general

UD Beauty Balm question

starchild — Fri, 08 Feb 2013 05:37:50 -0500

The new UD Beauty Balm claims that it "diffuses light with high-tech pigments" http://www.urbandecay.com/Naked-skin-beauty-balm-by-urban-decay/358,default,pd.html
Looking up the ingrediants to see if the claims were true I found mention that the ingredient-

ADIPIC ACID/NEOPENTYL GLYCOL CROSSPOLYMER gives it these qualities. Is that true?

Do these powder do what they claim?

rozy — Sun, 03 Feb 2013 18:44:31 -0500

There is this product called Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in Dim Light that claims to... "capture, diffuse, and soften the way light reflects on your skin",
"illuminating particles are one of the first ever to exhibit both
photoluminescence and color-correcting capabilities", "photoluminescent technology" etc. I dont see how its different than other shimmery powder products.

A collagen drink?

AngelaS — Fri, 08 Feb 2013 11:18:42 -0500

I recently read on a website about a collagen drink that's supposed to make your skin look fabulous. The claim, at least according to one reviewer, for the product called "Gold Collagen" was that it erased her forehead wrinkles completely in 2 weeks. Now, judging from the photos on this reviewer's website, I have to wonder if she had any true "wrinkles" to begin with, so I am incredibly skeptical about the product. Any thoughts from the Brains?

How is this cheek stain preserved?

rozy — Mon, 04 Feb 2013 00:21:43 -0500

I see no parabens listed in the ingredients of Tarte cheek stain, so I was wondering how it is preserved and if these chemicals are as effective as parabens. If they are not as effective does that mean this product has a shorter shelf life than products with parabens?
http://www.sephora.com/cheek-stain-P38468?skuId=937912

PS- Is there anything so special about this that makes it worth 30 bucks?

Is it normal for sebum to burn..

RizosMios — Wed, 06 Feb 2013 11:01:37 -0500

the heck out of my eyes? I wash my face twice a day and my morning wash goes normally for the most part, but my nightly wash burns my eyes and leaves me looking high afterward, they are so red. Is it normal for sebum to affect one this way? Could it be something else that I'm not considering?

I do think I excrete an excess of oil, by the way.

Oils in Cleansing Products?

neroli77 — Wed, 06 Feb 2013 16:06:05 -0500

I just noticed that both my body wash and shampoo have oils included, right after I thought I'd figured out that cleansing products don't need emulsification.

It doesn't look like an advertising gimmick with these products, just like they wanted to include them. I guess that might be nice, for a body wash, as a conditioning/refatting idea, and if a shampoo stays on your hair long enough, with an oil that can be absorbed or at least form a film. But does adding oils in cleansing products really provide benefits, and if so, what do they do?

How important is pH in skin care and hair care products?

TheBeautyCat — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 20:54:56 -0500

I was reading a blog post on here where someone asked you if toner was important and you mentioned that it's not important in terms of returning the skin back to a healthy pH because the skin will naturally restore its pH after a few hours. So I'm wondering how important is the level of pH of shampoo, conditioner, face wash, moisturizer, etc? Does shampoo, conditioner, face wash even matter if we're rinsing it all off anyway? I've heard that the perfect pH for hair, skin and nails is 4.5-5.5 but on your blog you stated the skin will naturally restore to 4-4.5. Does that 1.5 difference even matter? I've been testing the pH of all my products and I'm finding that every shampoo/conditioner is not below 5.5 but not higher than 7-7.5. Is it okay to use these even though it's not in the 4-5.5 range? I would assume using a product with a pH of 14 would not be wise, but is it advised to use a product with a pH anywhere from 0-7? 8? How important is this pH business? Thanks so much, Beauty Brains! Your answers are always appreciated!!!

Best routine

Lisamueller — Sun, 03 Feb 2013 21:17:23 -0500

I use Retin a each evening. I use DIY vitamin c each morning. Love this combo, but want to beef it up with an AHA moisturizer. When do I do this? Can I use it with the vitamin c?

Ear Candling?

klennerable — Wed, 06 Feb 2013 15:53:46 -0500

Hi there Beauty Brains!

I have a question concerning ear candling.. The procedure is to melt a special candle into your ear and it will clean out your ear. It claims that it will relieve you of excess ear wax and any allergies you have that pertain to sinus pressure. Can this be true? Thanks Beauty brains for all your hard work!

"Toxic" cosmetics being framed as a women's rights and race issue? Is this problematic?

rozy — Sun, 03 Feb 2013 23:52:49 -0500

As a feminist and also someone who respects science I was very disappointed to find an article on a site I normally enjoy called Everyday Feminism linking to CFSC and using fear mongering tactics seen often in the mass media. I find this worse because turning this into a race and feminist issues is taking away from all the social issues feminists should be putting energy into in my opinion. I find it extremely problematic but honestly I have come to expect little from popculture feminism which is a slightly more tolerable regurgitation of mainstream media and with a sickening fascination with celebrities and Hollywood. Anyways here's the article: http://everydayfeminism.com/2013/02/health-impact-of-toxic-chemicals-in-communities-of-color/
and here is something from the CFSC that talks specifically about black women and how the cosmetic industry is trying to harm them the most: http://www.bwwla.com/images/publications/NaturallyHealthyHair.pdf

*long sigh* I expect much more...

Denaturated alcohol for thickening aging hair?

Verina — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 14:24:09 -0500

Pantene's new product line from the Expert collection, Age Defy, promises to make aging, thin hair appear thicker (they wisely do not promise the growth of new hair). The" Advanced Thickening Treatment" product from this line should be applied daily , and left on the hair, with results appearing within 14 days (thin hair appearing thicker). Its first ingredients, in order, are: DENATURATED ALCOHOL, water, Niacinamide, PEG/PPG-20/23 dimethicone, etc.

My question: wouldn't the denaturated alcohol damage hair, and only make it appear thicker because of the damage? I lighten my very fine, aging hair, and am afraid this product would further damage it, causing breakage.

What are your thoughts, Beauty Brains?

Thank you for your daily bits of wisdom!