What the heck is Matryxl?

I have been reading quite about about this ingredient Matryxl 3000 - is it all hype or is it really something to consider?

One of the main products I have been hearing about is by timeless and the ingredents are (cost is 22 USD) :
water, matrixyl 3000™, aloe barbadensis, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, benzylalcohol, dehydroacetic acid.

A comparable coming in at a whopping $11 CAD from The Ordinary is a product with the following ingredients:
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyacrylamide Crosspolymer-6, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

Looking forward to your thoughts!


  • Matrixyl 3000 (variation of CU-GHK copper peptide), AKA Palmitoyl oligopeptide and Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7; Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR

    Very important note that it SHOULD not be used together with L Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C!!!!!

    It is detrimental to your skin if you mix this 2 ingredients.

    If you must use them together, wait an hour after applying one ingredient before you introduce the next. 

    note: Ascorbic acid is not compatible with any metals. eg Copper, Zinc,Iron.

    Matrixyl™ 3000 is an anti-aging product from Sederma. "Matrikine" is the term proposed for fragmented matrix peptides able to regulate cell activity. Matrixyl™ 3000 contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR. Acting as messengers of cutaneousrestructuration and repair, these two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin's youthful appearance. 

    Matrixyl® 3000 has been shown to regulate the expression of well-known (SA β-galactosidase) and recently discovered (progerin) markers of senescence. Indeed, it does not only reduce the SA β-galactosidase activity, but it also reduces the progerin's expression while preserving the expression of the normal form lamin A*.

    Then, immunohistochemistry analysis of skin sections ex vivo has proved that Matrixyl® 3000significantly stimulates synthesis of Collagen-I, -IV, -VII, -XVII and Nidogen-I proteins. While these proteins of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction usually decrease with age, Matrixyl® 3000 rejuvenates the dermal structure.

    More info on Matrixyl™ 3000 

  • edited October 2016
    Matrixyl 3000 doesn't contain copper, the peptides are fatty acids combined with amino acids.

    I tend to believe a cosmetic chemist knows that metals can't be combined with ascorbic acid, and that they account for that in their formulation with chelators for example. And also copper peptides are added at extremely low concentrations (parts per million range), so most probably the effect is negligible for the vitamin c. It's like the story with ascorbic acid and benzoic acid, in practice the reaction in a cosmetic product with some stabilizers is literally zero.

  • edited October 2016
    @Peter I remember Dr Todorov saying it contains a variation of Copper. It is not a very well known fact. He did warn against using it with Ascorbic Acid in his book which i purchased. You can read a little more on his website:  http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/palmitoyl-oligopeptide-palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7-matrixyl-3000.html

    Matrixyl is not formulated with Ascorbic acid (not that i have seen)

    The issue arises when the users may be unaware and use different incompatible products in a single skincare routine in one sitting. 

    Copper is a really potent ingredient. Just a little is enough to do it. The low concentration is irrelevant. 

    What's the story with ascorbic acid and benzoic acid? I have not heard of it.
  • @preciousia
    No, matrixyl 3000 doesn't contain copper. The three amino acids groups (GHK, which stands for Glycine-Histidine-Lysine) is part of the copper peptide Cu-GHK. Matrixyl only uses Palmitic Acid bound to amino acids. And as is explained on Smartskincare, there are rather few good quality studies on this mix of ingredients.

    Inside the same formula I haven't seen Ascorbic Acid combined with Copper Peptides either. Although the Resist Line minimizer of Paula's Choice contains Copper, which is often used together with the Paula's Choice C15. Your skin containes copper too btw. Because it's bound to the peptides I wonder if it there is a scientific study which has researched the effect on ascorbic acid. I mean free heavy metals is something different than bound heavy metals (to peptides or chelators). And both ascorbic acid and copper are naturally already in your skin. 

    In soft drinks ascorbic acid en benzoic acid are able the form benzene in the presence of metal ions. Although in cosmetics the concentration of benzoic is very low, and the addition of chelators has proven to reduce the formation of benzene to almost zero. You would have to drink about 20L or something to get the amount of benzene you already breath in from the air around you every day.

  • edited November 2016
    @Peter I did well in my Cambridge GCE  O Levels in both Chemisty and Biology but that was 20 years ago. I did not pursue science in my tertiary education and i do struggle when they into the biochem of ingredients.

    Today when you speak chemistry, most of the time, i find it difficult to comprehend without the education.  I always quote the sources so in case I misinterpret, you guys can see the original doc and step in to help. The same way how academics have to quote their sources too :)

    i thought matrixyl 3000 contains the precursor of copper. i need to retrace where i saw that. it wasn't his website but was from Dr Todorov, perhaps his forum, i forget ;;)

    Will report back if i find it. 

    Thank you for the input! Love the Beauty Geeks here in this forum 
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