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Topical niacinamide versus topical niacin
  • I wrote this as a "Dear Paula" question, but having received no reply yet, thought I'd see if anyone here can clarify the issue. Paula Begoun, whose site I find very useful, wrote an unfavorable review of La Roche Posay Rosaliac anti-redness moisturizer (which I've never used). http://www.cosmeticscop.com/product_review.aspx?pid=2520&tid=314&product=La+Roche-Posay+Rosaliac+Skin+Perfecting+Anti-Redness+Moisturizer&filter=itemtype%3acontent One of her comments about the product was, "...niacinamide is derived from niacin, which, although it can be beneficial, has the potential to cause facial flushing—not what someone with reddened skin needs." I have rosacea, and niacinamide is in a lot of products that I use, including prescription Metrogel. A Wikipedia article on niacinamide clarifies its distinction from niacin by stating that unlike niacin, niacinamide "...has not been shown to produce the flushing, itching, and burning sensations of the skin." So which is it? Does niacinamide have the potential to cause flushing, or not?
  • Paula, wonderful as she is, can be inconsistent (she villifies the use of sandalwood oil and rosemary extract in some products, while rating others that contain them highly, even if they're both comparatively high concentrations). I love her and her products but she too is capable of being less than perfect, and her team is also comprised of human beings. Niacinamide is the chief ingredient in almost every Olay moisturizer, which she tends to rate favorably also, so that's another example of inconsistency. However the rosaliac moisturizer does contain alcohol denat as the 5th ingredient, which is definitely a problem for rosacea prone skin.
  • Thanks for clarifying. I noticed people on rosacea forums getting concerned about the topical niacinamide in various products because of flushing concerns (sometimes citing Paula's review of the rosaliac), so I did wonder.

    In another vein (so to speak), how big of a concern is witch hazel for rosacea? I have a new product I like with that in it, I'm waiting to see how my skin does with it.
  • Witch hazel, depending on what portion of the plant is in question and whether or not it's a distillate, tends to be high in alcohol content (and tannins, the components of red wine that pigment the product, make the mouth feel dry and contribute to flushing). Frankly even if there was no alcohol I woud be concerned about tannins, ESPECIALLY for rosacea skin.
  • If you're worried about flushing, add some chamomile extract - it eliminates redness immediately.  Very calming!