How to use vitamin C serums?

Dear Beauty Brains,

I really love vitamin C serums, but I would like to use them properly. 
I have two product.
BRTC C-vitamin ampoulle, you can find the INCI here:
Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant Serum, for INCI please click here:
As I know the ascorbic acid works pH 2.5-3.5. But despite of this fact, you can read at the description of the BRTC C serum, that it is ph 5,5 because it is more gentle to the skin. Can it also work oh this pH?
I also read that the derivates of C-vitamin, like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, what it is in the Paula's choice serum, does not need any special pH to work. Unfortunatelly I cannot measures the pH-s.
I also use chemical peelings, and I know that after using chemical exfoliation, which has a pH between 3-4, I should wait after applying it a half an hour, then the pH of my skin can restore its nature pH around 5-5,5 pH.
So my questions:
Does the vitamin C really need a special law pH around 2,5-3,5 pH? And what about their derivates, like Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate? Do they need special lower pH?
Can my BRTC C serum works on a pH 5,5?
And finally should I wait 30 minutes for having the effect of both my serums like after a chemical peeling?
I am very-very appreciated for your answer in advance! :)
(And I am sorry for my bad English, please correct my letter if it is needed.)

Best regards,
Ildikó alias MsTindigo from Hungary


  • +1 this post. This is something I've wondered about too. Maybe Randy or Perry could look into it. Mstindigo would you mind if I reworded your question into a blog-post friendly form so the brains could share their answers on the blog for all to see?
  • Brainybimbo - you keep this up and we might hire you. 

    Mstindigo - we are planning on discussing vitamin C so please stay tuned. 
  • Ooh exciting.
    Haha I am gainfully employed by the enemy currently, but you wouldn't have to ask me twice. If you wanted a "confessions of a Sephora girl with secret brains" column, you would be speaking to an excellent candidate.
  • For me it makes no sense whether you make a blog post. :) I will do for sure as I have a hungarian skin-care blog, so girls from Hungary are waiting for your smart answer very-very much and send hugs and kisses to the smartest beauty brains! :) Hope you will find out how to use these C-serums, because these products are very popular at in Hungary.
  • I have also wondered about this topic and also is vitamin c that important to include in your skin care and does it really benefit the skin like they say? Will be curious to hear what forms of it are best for skin, ascorbic acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, etc.
  • Hope you dont forget me and my question. :) Really wait for you answer! :)
  • We certainly haven't forgotten. We're doing the research now and we're thinking about making this a topic for an upcoming episode of our podcast. 
  • Thank you very much! :) Looking forward to your podcast!
  • I don't want you to think we forgot about this question. The reason it's taking so long is that I had to order an article from Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology that reviews the stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of the various forms of Vitamin E. Once I receive it, this should give me the definitive information I need to write an article. 

    PS are you sure you don't want to record an audio version of the question for our podcast? We'd LOVE to have one of our Hungarian fans on the show.
  • Really looking forward to a Vitamin C article.  I use a 25% vitamin c (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) serum every morning under my moisturizer and feel like I have seen the benefit in my own skin but I would like to back up my love of the stuff with some actual data for when I'm singing it's praises to others.  My serums are where I spend money and where I encourage others to spend money so it will be good to know the science!  Thank you!!
  • Dear Randy, 
    Well, thank you very much for your kind request! If you would like to do it with me, it is my pleasure. :)
    But I would be appreciated, if you could let me know the corrected question, and than I just should read is loudly. :)  Can you send me by e-mail the proper question? And then I record it. Anyway I have hungarian accent, as I have never lived abroad, in Hungary we just say "hunglish". ;) But I hope it will make your podcast even more entertraining  :D
  • I am interested too! Tried a vitamin c serum before but it made my sensitive skin all red and hot so I had to throw it away after one usage. MAP (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) is apparently also used in some lower concentrations to 'neutralize' the DHT hormone produced on scalp in male alopecia patients which may stop hair thinning, if I remember correctly from a Japanese paper.
  • Do you have a link to that paper? I'd love to take a look at it. Thanks!
  • Sorry! It was the Koreans :)

    But I do remember a Japanese paper on it too. Let me see if I can find it ...
  • Mstindigo: I sent you a private message about recording your question. Did you see it? 
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