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Octinoxate, avobenzone, and minerals--oh my!
  • sarahf
    Can someone help me out as far as what destabilizes avobenzone and how big of an issue it is?  Assume octocrylene is not present in the formulation. I ask because for the first time, I'm starting to use liquid products (e.g., tinted moisturizers) with spf on top of my sunscreen, and I want to know what will interfere with what. 
    I've been reading that octinoxate and avobenzone destabilize one another unless octocrylene is there to make everyone happy.  I got a tinted moisturizer a while back that I thought would be my all-in-one, but it turns out the only actives are octinoxate, avobenzone and homosalate, so I think that wouldn't be considered a stable formulation?  Then there is some question about minerals (I think titanium dioxide) and avobenzone not playing well together? 
  • CharlieNyc
    That s a great question. Avobenzone by itself, is a great UVA sunfilter. Unfortunately when exposed to the sun, it breaks down and its protective 'power' vanishes, therefore leaving you without any protection (that s what s called non photostable). So you need to have a certain concentration of Octocrylene and Avobenzone together to photostabilize the Avobenzone. The first brand to patent this discovery at the right concentration was L Oreal via Lancome, La Roche-Posay (Anthelios) or Kiehl's products. Now more brands use this combination too.
    A great sunscreen must have:
    - broad spectrum (UVB and UVA protection),
    -but at high level of protection (spf and UVA. Often, products claiming broad spectrum barely protect),
    -and finally a strong photostability.
    - Last part, a great texture too because at the end, you have to want to use the sunscreen.
    I recommend Anthelios line, the ones with Mexorl or the ones with CELLOX Shield, both excellent and very photostable.
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