Does molecular size of beauty products matters?
  • Hello to my dear trustworthy beauty brains,

      I've recently attended a roadshow by Vaseline, and the promoters claimed that its Vaseline Nourishing Body Serum has smaller particles, so it can penetrate the skin better. It also retains moisture & hydrates the skin up to 10x w/ approx 8 hours long of hydration.

     After trying the sample, I was dazzled by how fast it's absorbed (I judge that by how sticky it feels right after application & after 5 mins of application). I'm currently using Fruit Of The Earth Vitamin E Lotion. FOTE Lotion feels quite sticky even after 5 mins of application (feels like oil sitting on your skin), whereas Vaseline does not.

      I've asked the promoter & she said its bcz of the molecular size, Vaseline's serum has smaller & could penetrate the skin to moisturise outer & inner layer of the skin, whereas FOTE Lotion just sit on top of the skin & moisturise the skin's outer layer. I wonder how true is this claim?

      Why does some product are less sticky on your skin upon application? Are serums smaller particles than lotion? Do serums really moisturise both outer & inner skin layer; lotions only outer skin layer? Thus, serums better moisturisers than lotion? Or is it simply some marketing hype?

      Would you mind to compare as well Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil with any normal brand cleansing oil (or using olive oil as a cleansing oil)? I don't know why after using Shu Uemura's I feel like my skin pores are so clean they can actually breathe, I'm wondering if they're just merely feelings or it's the plus effects of Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil. They feel similar to Vaseline's serum. I don't feel the same with using 100% olive oil cleansing oil, which is also similar to FOTE Lotion.

    Thanks for clearing out my doubts once again
  • Alisas: The size of the particles in a moisturizer is not what determines how well it will moisturize or how it will feel on skin. Rather, it's the nature of the ingredients in the formula. Some ingredients will feel greasier while others are lighter and will "soak in" to the upper layers of skin.   

     I haven't been able to find an ingredient list for this product so it's difficult to understand exactly how it works. (From what I've seen online it appears that this product not be sold in the US. If you can find an ingredient list let me know.)


  • Thanks so much for responding to my question, appreciate it a lot. Couldn't find the ingredient list online, so I'll type it out here

    For body part:
    Nivea Body Intensive Moisture Serum SPF 25 PA++
    Aqua, ethylhexyl salicylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, cyclomethicone, distarch phosphate, sodium phenylbenzimidazole sulfonate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, alocohol denat., cetyl alcohol, tocopheryl acetate, persea gratissima oil, vitis vinifera seed oil, glyceryl glucoside, sodium carbomer, trisodium EDTA, sodium polyacrylate, benzoic acid, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, parfum

    Vaseline Healthy White SPF 30 PA++ Serum
    Water, ethylhexyl salicylate, glycerin, stearic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, glycol stearate, niacinamide, PEG-100 stearate, butyl metholxydibenzolymethane, dimethicone, glyceryl stearate, pottassium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, carbomer, cetyl alcohol, xanthan gum, perfume, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, stearamide AMP, BHT, maltodextrin, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate

    FOTE Vitamin E Lotion
    Aqua (water), mineral oil, cetyl alcohol, glycerin, stearic acid, tocopheryl acetate (vita E), aloe barbadensis leaf juice, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil, retinyl palmitate (vita A), carbomer, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, squalane, dimethicone, sodium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine, propylene glycol & diazolidinyl urea & methylparaben & propylparaben, parfum (fragrance)

    For face part:
    Shu Uemura ultime8 sublime beauty cleansing oil
    zeea mays, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, capylic/capric triglyceride, butyrospermum parkii butter, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, octyldodecanol, polyglyceryl-6 tricaprylate, phenoxyethanol, squalane, simmondsia chinesis oil, carthamus tinctorius oil, camellia oleifera seed oil, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, linalool, tocopherol, geraniol, aqua, zingiber officinale root extract, 2-oleamido-1, 3-octadecanediol, parfum

    The ingredients list may differ. Please refer to the product for the official ingredients list.

    100% olive oil cleansing oil
    50% olive oil + 50% water

    Wow, that's a lot of typing I did!!! Haha, hope this helps :)
  • Thanks for all the typing! 

    To answer your first question, it's not surprising that the Vaseline product feels like it absorbs so quickly compared to FOTE product which contains mineral oil and cetyl alcohol (among other things.) The Vaseline product appears to be surprisingly light considering it's a sunscreen. 

    Why are some products less sticky on your skin? It depends on the oils in the product and the emulsifiers used to allow the oils and water to mix. Again, FOTE product uses mineral oil which is a good moisturizer but is heavier. The Nivea and Vaseline products use other materials which are less likely to be sticky. 

    The Shu cleansing oil product is based on isopropyl myristate and caprice/caprylic triglyceride both of which are lighter in texture than olive oil. So it's not surprising that this product makes your pores feel like they can "breathe" better. (Even though skin doesn't really breathe.)  
  • Thanks so much for the info. I did a quick research and found the following, pls check wif me if my understanding is correct. Thanks again

    For body part:
    1. When you mentioned Vaseline & nivea has sunscreen properties, do you mean this ingredient (ethylhexyl salicylate) which only absorb UVB from what I've found. So, technically speaking, if I want max protection from the sun, I should apply another layer of sunscreen which protects from both UVA & UVB, and not merely apply these "serums" only, before I hit outdoors?

    2. FOTE contains mineral oil and cetyl alcohol, which I've checked are emulsifiers. Emollients = occlusive? Which means they just cover the skin to prevent water evaporation?

    3. Isn't alcohol drying to skin? So why is cetyl alcohol an emollient?

    4. Considering the long term benefit of these body lotion/serum, which would be a better pick? Nivea, Vaseline or FOTE? Thanks

    5. For FOTE, these ingredients:
    tocopheryl acetate (vita E), aloe barbadensis leaf juice, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil, retinyl palmitate (vita A), carbomer, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, squalane, dimethicone

    These yummy ingredients were placed after the 5th ingredient. So according to the RULE OF 5, does it mean that they don't impact or has any real benefit to my skin? or they do, just that it's minimum? Should I consider them while I'm comparing it to other brands/products?

    For face part:
    1. Shu has isopropyl myristate which clog pores apparently? So I'm don't really understand how does it make our pores breathe better? Does it imply long term usage will end up in breakouts or blackheads?

    2. How can I know or clarify which texture is lighter, except relying on applying on my own skin test, which I believe is pretty unreliable?

    All ingredients were checked on Paula's website. If there's any better website to check regarding cosmetics ingredients, pls pls pls do notify me.
    Sorry for my super long lists of questions, I'm just really eager to learn more how to take care my skin, & I really love reading your blog & listen to the podcasts as usual. Thanks a million
  • Q: If I want max protection from the sun, I should apply another layer of sunscreen which protects from both UVA & UVB?


    A: Yes! 




    Q: FOTE contains mineral oil and cetyl alcohol, which I've checked are emulsifiers. Emollients = occlusive? Which means they just cover the skin to prevent water evaporation?


    A: Mineral oil is occlusive. Cetyl alcohol is a thickener and emulsifier. The mineral oil prevents water from evaporating.  




    Q: Isn't alcohol drying to skin? So why is cetyl alcohol an emollient?


    A: Short chain alcohol, like Ethanol, dries skin. Long chain fatty alcohols, like cetyl, actually help moisturizer. 


     


    Q: Considering the long term benefit of these body lotion/serum, which would be a better pick? Nivea, Vaseline or FOTE? 


    A: I'd go with the products containing sunscreen even though they are not broad spectrum. 




    Q: These yummy ingredients were placed after the 5th ingredient. So according to the RULE OF 5, does it mean that they don't impact or has any real benefit to my skin? or they do, just that it's minimum? Should I consider them while I'm comparing it to other brands/products?


    A: These ingredients are most likely not the ones providing the main product benefits. 




    Q: 1. Shu has isopropyl myristate which clog pores apparently? So I'm don't really understand how does it make our pores breathe better? 


    A: Many people find that IPM causes acne. Pores do not "breathe." 




    Q: How can I know or clarify which texture is lighter, except relying on applying on my own skin test, which I believe is pretty unreliable?


    A: Not sure I understand. The lighter texture means it feels less greasy on your skin so use which ever one feels the best. 

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