I want to know about deep conditioning and silicone. I am natural and I use no heat nor do I color.

First deep conditioning, I wrote a letter to a Trichologist this is my email and reply:

ccgre


I am a member of this hair forum http://www.naturallycurly.com/curltalk/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=40 we speak about our routines and products that we like but it is all opinion, I wanted some science fact. Most natural type 4 hair people feel that heat is definitely a no no, so I would like to know is heat required in order for the hair shaft to swell open for deep conditioning ? Thank you for your time.




The Trichological Society (TTS) - www.hairscientists.org

The Hair-shaft is not a vessel which opens up with heat and absorbs nutrients. The hair-shaft consists of an outer casing - the Cuticle which protects and contains the central Cortex (a series of tubes (macrofibrils) containing smaller tubes (microfibrils) containing smaller tubes (photofibrils) containing the alpha helices. The Cuticle’s role is to prevent the invasion of the Cortex. If the Cuticle is damaged and the Cortex becomes exposed, the hair-shaft will usually deteriorate and eventually sever at that point. Heat is always damaging to hair-shafts - Bubble Hair Syndrome is a condition in which small pockets of moisture contained within the Cuticle and Cortex vaporise with the intense heat from hairdryers, tongs, irons etc forming blisters which lead to severance.
In my opinion any process referred to as ‘deep conditioning’ is wishful thinking. Conditioning hair usually starts and finishes with aiding the Cuticle to enclose the Cortex. There is no effective treatment yet available which will permanently repair damaged hair-shafts and I have seen no evidence to confirm that they benefit from exposure to steam.
The best action is preventative care – do not expose hair to the potential hazards associated with chemical processing or thermal appliances which generate great heat.
If any of your members has a real hair problem I would suggest he/she takes individual advice from a graduate trichologist registered with and listed on The Trichological Society’s website (www.hairscientists.org)

I hope this is of interest.

Barry J Stevens MA FTTS
Consulting Hair Scientist and Registrar (TTS).


So is deep conditioning just a lie or what? I am not talking about permanent repair, I am talking about daily maintenance. And what is the significance of, instant and deep conditioners? I co-wash pretty much on a daily basis, is this fine am I doing damage? I do so because it makes styling easier when I wear my hair out.

Second silicone. On many hair care forums that cater to my type of hair the silicone question is debated vigorously. It is said the silicone coats the hair shaft like a barrier keeping new moister from getting in. Now with kinky, coily, 4a/b hair moister is a must, but to remove non water soluble silicone from the hair you have to use the harsh, drying detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate and such. So is this all true, do you have to remove silicone from the hair and how often? How often does my type of hair require moister? Will the non water soluble block my daily routine of co-washing daily and applying moisturizing leave-ins? If I use a sls shampoo like once or twice a month would that be sufficient to maintain the moisture in my hair?