Occlusivity of waxes

I've looked everywhere for information on the occlusive ratings for waxes and can't seem to find any information.
Do thickeners, such as glyceryl stearate SE, beeswax, cera bellina, etc. still allow penetration of goodies such as vitamin e, panthenol, and vitamins? Obviously, the percentage of wax would be a factor, but are some less occlusive than others? You'd think there would be some sort or rating guide out there somewhere.
Or is cetyl alcohol an option? I'm asking htis in regard to facial and lip serums.



  • Occlusivity typically means an ingredient will form a water proof layer on the skin that will keep moisture from evaporating. That doesn't necessarily mean an occlusive ingredient will prevent other ingredients from getting into the skin. (Assuming of course that the ingredient in question will even penetrate skin.)

    Since many, if not most, anti-aging creams that contain legitimate actives (like retinol and niacinamide) do contain waxes and thickeners like the ones you mentioned, I don't see any reason to believe those ingredients are causing a problem.  
  • Thanks for the info Randy
    Now I can get to work and know I'm not waisting those beneficial ingredients :)
  • I was wondering the same, because a lot of facial masks, contain clay, and some clay's compositional qualities are naturally waxy, such as Fuller's Earth. You see anti aging masks sold with it in them, such as LUSH cosmetic's Ayesha mask. Would this mask be able to deliver any of the ingredients past the waxy barrier of the clay in that of LUSH's Ayesha mask I mentioned? Here is a list of the ingredients:

    Fullers Earth, Honey (Mel), Elderflower (Sambucus Nigra) & Lime Tree Flower (Tilia Europaea), (Soy Based) Glycerine, Fresh Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis), Fresh Organic Kiwi Fruit (Actinidia chinensis), Kaolin, Witch Hazel Extract (Hamamelis virginiana), Rose Absolute (Rosa damascena), Rosemary Oil (Rosmarinus officinalis), Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cabin, Elderflower Vinegar, Bentone Gel, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Fragrance                                                        


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