Doppleganger says: I’ve been told that hair needs protein and moisturization to stay healthy. So, for protein I use Mane n Tail and for moisturization I use hair cholesterol products (like Le Kair, Queen Helene) and coconut oil. Is this good for my hair or can I be causing any kind of long term damage?

The Left Brain Replies:

Relax, Dop. These conditioners won`t damage your hair. You might find that your hair is weighed down if you`re using them all at once, but other than that they won`t do anything bad to your hair. So if you like the way these conditioners make your hair feel, then keep using them anyway you like. The real question here is, does hair really need protein and moisturization? The answer is yes and no.

YES, hair needs moisturization

That just means you need to keep your hair from drying out. That’s the whole idea behind conditioners. You can moisturize by adding water (which doesn’t really stay in your hair very long) or you can moisturize by fighting the effects of dryness. That’s what any good conditioner does. Conditioners, like Le Kair and Queen Helene, work by smoothing the outer layers of your hair, the part called the cuticle. Cuticles are like shingles on top of a roof. If you don’t keep them “glued down” they tend to come loose and fall off. When ever you’re doing anything to your hair (including washing, drying, styling, or coloring), your causing some degree of damage to those cuticles. What a good conditioner does is smooth the cuticles, forming a protective layer over them so they don’t become as damaged.

NO, hair doesn’t need more protein

Although, hair is made of protein, it’s dead. So putting protein on top of the protein in your hair doesn’t really make it “healthy.” But the right kind of proteins used at the right levels can act as a conditioning agent that can form a protective film on the hair. So it’s not that your hair needs protein, it’s that it needs SOMETHING to form that protective layer. Proteins will do it to some extent, but there are other ingredients (like fatty quaternium compounds or silicones, that will work even better. So protein conditioners like Mane ‘n Tail are good for your hair, but not necessarily BECAUSE they contain protein. We’ve written other posts about protein if you’d like to read more.

The Beauty Brains Bottom line:

There are many, many great hair conditioners on the market that will moisturize your hair. Mane n’ Tail, Le Kair, and Queen Helene won’t do anything bad to you. The important thing is to find the ones that feel right for your hair and that you can afford. But don’t worry too much about special ingredients like proteins. Oh, and by the way, the coconut oil you’re using has an added benefit. It penetrates through the cuticle to strengthen the inside side part of the hair called the cortex. But that’s a topic for another post like this one about the Ojon treatment.

Shendel says: What makes a heat activated hair product well, heat activated? Do heat activated products really protect hair against heat? Specifically I`m wondering about the Ciment Thermique leave-in by Kerastase that claims it actually *treats* hair during heat styling. Is that possible? The Left Brain Responds:

The quick answer is: sort of. The long answer is that you have to understand terms like “heat-activated” and “heat protection” do not have universally accepted scientific definitions as they relate to cometics. Essentially, every company comes up with it`s own definition. So to help you make sense of these confusing terms, here’s how The Beauty Brains define them:

Heat activated

This is the most vague of the heat related terms. When a product says it`s heat activated, all that really means is that the company has found a way to show that some aspect of the product changes when it`s exposed to higher temperatures. For example, it could mean that the product releases fragrance or some other encapsulated ingredient when it`s warmed up. It could also mean that the formula changes consistency when heated, or that it deposits more of an active ingredient. Remember, just because the product is heat activated doesn`t necessarily mean you`ll be able to notice anything different. It just means that the company has found some way to measure a property of the product that changes with temperature.

Heat protection

Heat protection means the product somehow reduces the negative effects of heat. The simplest way to accomplish this is by lubricating the hair during heat styling. Silcone based products are very effective in this way, they coat the hair shaft so flat irons and curling irons glide across the hair more easily. Therefore there`s less chance of damaging the hair.

Self Heating

Of all these heat terms, self heating is the most noticeable to the consumer. Simply put, it means the product has the capability to warm itself. Some products accomplish this through a chemical reaction, others use a self-contained heat source in the package. However, you have to realize that just because a product warms up doesn`t mean it WORKS any better. The sensory experience may be more pleasant, but rarely do self heating products function differently.

How do we classify the Ciment Thermique product? It`s certainly not self-warming. And there doesn`t seem to be anything in the formula that`s significantly activated by heat. But based on the combination of silicones and fatty conditioners in the product, we`d guess it would do a pretty good job of lubricating hair and therefore it should be a decent heat protection product. But you`ll have to try it and tell us if you like it or not.

Nina asks about WEN, a line of cleansing conditioners created by a Hollywood hair stylist Chaz Dean. Dean believes that sulfates in most shampoos can be very damaging and stripping to hair so he created these cleansing conditioners to clean hair without stripping it. Nina wants to know if hair can really be better off in the long run by cleansing with a conditioner. And if it does work, will a regular drugstore conditioner produce the same effect.

The Left Brain replies:

Great question, Nina. First of all, the idea of cleaning your hair with conditioner is not new and was not invented by Chaz. And no, he’s not using any kind of revolutionary technology. Let`s take a look at the ingredients:

Water, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, rosemary leaf extract, wild cherry fruit extract, fig extract, chamomile extract, marigold flower extract, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, amodimethicone, hydrolized wheat protein, polysorbate 60, panthenol, menthol, sweet almond oil, PEG-60 almond glycerides, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, citric acid, essential oils.

Looking at just the functional ingredients (leaving out extracts, preservatives, pH adjusters, ) leaves the following:

glycerin, cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SADMA), and amodimethicone

These are very common conditioner ingredients. Here’s what they do: Glycerin can provide moisturization in a leave on product, but it doesn’t do anything for hair when it’s rinsed out. Cetyl and cetearyl alcohol are thickening and emulsifying agents are are used to make a conditioner rich and creamy. Because they`re oil soluble they could, in theory, help lift some of the sebum of your hair and scalp. Behentrimonium methosulfate, SADMA, and amodimethicone are very effective conditioning ingredients because they deposit on the hair.

Could you clean your hair with this product? Sure, if your hair isn’t very dirty this could work pretty well. But so could any basic conditioner. In fact, I’d look for a conditioner that doesn’t have any silicone in it, just to make sure it leaves as little on your hair as possible.

But what if you have greasy hair, or if you use hairspray, mousse gel, or putty? Then cleansing conditioners are not a very good idea. They don`t have enough cleansing power to remove gunk from the hair. Chances are that cleansing with conditioner will leave your hair feeling dirty and weighed down.

The Brains Bottom Line: If you’re really worried about drying your hair out from over-shampooing, there’s nothing wrong with skipping your shampoo and just rinsing with conditioner once in a while. But you don’t need to spend $28 on a special product. A nice inexpensive drug store brand will do the same thing.

Carly’s Question:
There has been a lot of controversy lately about silicones in hair products. I am a member of a naturally curly hair website and many of the members are anti-silicone because of the claims that silicones bond to the hair and do not allow moisture into the hair shaft. Supposedly once the silicone is on the hair it acts as a barrier between your hair shaft and any moisture. Is all of this true, or is it just a myth? I will sometimes use a silicone product, but then later feel guilty that I am suffocating my hair, and wash it all off. I think it would be great if you can let everyone know the truth behind silicones.

The Right Brain’s Response:
Questions about silicones being bad for your hair come up a lot. But you can just call us the cosmetic mythbusters, Carly, because silicones do not really cause the problem you described. Shampoos and conditioners that contain a high level of high molecular weight, water insoluble silicones can build up on hair, that much is true. And if you over-use products like this everyday, it is possible to end up with hair that feels weighed down and limp. But even this does happen, you’re not really suffocating your hair.

3 Reasons Why Silicone Can’t Suffocate Hair:

1) Even if you didn’t wash all the silicone out, we’ve never seen any data that indicates that a small amount of silicone residue acts as a “barrier” between hair shaft and moisture. On average, your hair contains about 8 to 14% water by weight but it will equilibrate to the ambient humidity. In other words, it will pick up moisture when it’s very humid and it will lose moisture when it’s very dry. Slight silicone residue won’t substantially change that. Now, if you slather on a heavy layer of a silicone hair treatment product, that’s a different story!

2) Even though your hair absorbs moisture from the environment, its state of dryness isn’t completely controlled by this external water. Dryness is more a function of how damaged your hair is and how much natural lipids it contains.

3) Even if you did block your hair from absorbing moisture, the silicone would act like a moisturizing agent because it would plasticize and lubricate your hair. It would essentially fight the effects of dryness.

The Beauty Brains Bottom Line:

If you use a silicone containing product and you like the way it makes your hair look and feel, DONT WORRY ABOUT IT! Don’t feel guilty because some people tell you that it’s bad for your hair.  Oil products like Ojon can work too if you don’t want to use silicone.

Denise is shocked by all the static electricity in her hair, especially in the winter time. So, she’s turned to the Beauty Brains to find out what causes it and how to stop it. The Right Brain gets excited about electricity in this response…

The Causes of Static Electricity

Static electricity, unlike the electric current that runs your blow dryer and your iPod, is caused by two unlike materials rubbing against each other. (Think about rubbing a balloon on your sweater or running a comb through your hair.) This process causes electrons to be transferred from the surface of one material to the other. The material that loses electrons ends up with an net positive charges and the material that gains electrons ends up a net negative charge.

When this charge build up occurs on materials that don’t conduct electricity very well (like dry, damaged hair) the electrons just kind of sit there. (Hence the name “static electricity.) If there’s enough moisture in the hair the charge can dissipate, but in very dry weather it has not place to go. This charge buildup causes hairs to repel one another (like two ends of a magnet) and that’s when you get static flyaway.

3 Tips For Reducing Static Charge

1.) Reduce the friction that causes static charge.

If you can, cut back on combing and brushing, be careful when putting on or taking off coats, sweaters, and hats. If you must comb or brush, using a wooden comb or brush can help. Ok, this isn’t the most practical advice in the world because you still HAVE to style your hair, but you get the idea - the more you rub stuff against your hair the worse the flyaway will be.

2.) Prevent charge buildup by increasing the conductivity of your hair.

Increasing the conductivity of your hair means that the charge can be spread out and neutralized. Leave in products are particularly good for this because they’re less likely to build up on your hair over time and they can be easily reapplied during the day. You don’t have to spend $15 on something like Fredrick Fekkai Winter Hair Anti static Weightless Mist, there are plenty of other products that work as well. Read the back of the package and look for products that have the ingredients with the word quat or “amine” in their name. These ingredients conduct electricity better than silicones or oils and so are better static fighters. If you don’t like a leave in, you can spray Static Guard on your hair brush or you can even wipe your hair with a dryer sheet. Not our favorite choice but it gets the job done.

3) Improve the condition of your hair so there are less damaged sites.

The more porous and damaged your hair is, the drier it will be. And the drier it is, the more likely that static charge will build up on it. Use a good rinse out conditioner every time you shampoo to keep your hair smooth and moisturized and you can lessen the likelihood of charge building up in the first place. If you don’t mind using silicones, Pantene is one of the best conditioners available. If you’re silicone-shy, try something like Nisim.

Diane’s Undaunted By Silicones For Silkier Hair:
The question of silicone’s usefulness has long being a subject of intense debate, speculation and confusion in Long Hair Community. As a consequence, a lot of members in Long Hair Community are wary of using silicone-heavy products, such as Pantene conditioner. Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone and whatnot are allegedly harder to rinse out, therefore build-up occurs faster than a silicone-free hair regimen.

As for me, I love how cones smooth and soften my hair big time - while in shower. Sadly, the miraculous silkiness vanishes as soon as my hair dries. So I use unrefined coconut oil to successfully add shine, softness and protection for my hair.

My questions are these: Are cones really harder to rinse out? How do they work on hair? Do they dry hair out? And why does that wonderful silkiness disappear when my hair dries? How do carrier oils like coconut oil, sweet almond oil compare to silicones?

The Right Brain Comments on ‘Cones for Conditioning:
Diane, you raise some very good questions. In general, silicones work by covering hair with a thin hydrophobic (water-proof) coating. This coating serves several purposes: it helps reduce the porosity of the hair which makes it less likely to absorb humidity; it helps reduce moisture loss from the inside of the hair; and it lubricates the surface of the hair so it feel smoother and combs easier.

The properties vary depending on which particular silicone is in the formula. Some silicones do leave a heavy coating on the hair that can be hard to wash off. Others are very water soluble and don’t buildup at all. Dimethicone, (sometimes called simethicone) for example, is the heaviest of all silicones used for hair care. It provides the most smoothing effect but it is also the hardest to wash out. Cyclomethicone on the other hand, gives great slippery feeling while you’re rinsing your hair, but it quickly evaporates leaving nothing behind. This is probably what you`re experiencing.

What about carrier oils, as you describe them? Some oils are effective conditioners. Take coconut oil, for example. While it doesn`t provide the same surface smoothing as silicones, it has been shown to penetrate hair and plasticize the cortex, making hair stronger. (This isn’t true of all natural oils however.) So oils are useful ingredients but they’re not direct replacements for silicones.

The Brains Bottom Line:
It`s tough to tell simply from reading the label because there are so many types of silicones and they can be used in combination with each other. You can’t simply say: all silicones are bad. Some women will find silicones too heavy for their hair, others will love the soft, conditioned feel they provide. You’ll have to experiment to find what’s right for you. Good luck!

Sandra’s Got A Hunch About Henna:

Hi! I read your blog a lot, and it’s so interesting that I’m actually considering changing my major from Biology to Chemistry!

Anyways. I want to grow out my hair to very long lengths, so I’m always looking for ways to take care of it. A lot of people at the Long Hair Community use henna and swear that it strengthens and conditions their hair.

If I got it right from what I’ve read, henna coats the hair shaft, and even penetrates the hair to a certain extent, and binds to the protein of the hair, thus the strengthening. The coating effect smooths down the cuticle, so there you have the conditioning. So what`s the truth - Does henna condition hair?

The Right Brain Coos About Chemistry:

Sandra, we’re THRILLED to think our blog has helped you in in selecting your major. You`ll have to write back and let us know if decide on a career in chemistry.

Speaking of careers, The Beauty Brains have been in the hair industry for many years and we have NEVER seen a single technical reference that ascribes hair strengthening or conditioning properties to henna. While we`re big fans of the Long Hair Community (we`ve quoted them on several occasions) this one sounds like the kind of thing someone just made up or heard from someone else.

This much is true: the active ingredient in henna (called Lawsone) does have an affinity for keratin protein (like your skin and hair.) That`s why henna is used to create mendhi, those decorative Indian skin designs. The brown stain sticks around for so long because it binds to your skin’s protein. But there`s no evidence that this interaction has any affect on the structure of your hair. Modern hair researchers have the ability to measure how well ingredients penetrate into hair AND how they impact hair`s tensile strength. Good conditioners need to be able to lubricate the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle and there`s no data to show that henna is efficacious in this regard.

(Oh, and just in case you’re wondering, henna does do a good job of staining skin brown but it doesn’t really work well enough to help you quit getting grey hair.)

One of our favorite resources, The Long Hair Community, has posted an excellent list of silicones used in hair care products. There are a couple of technical inaccuracies here and there, but overall this is a very comprehensive list of what you’ll see on the ingredient lists of the products you buy. It’s a bit long, but we thought we’d reprint it here in it’s entirety for your reference. And it took a lot of time to compile this, so a BIG THANKS to the ladies at the Long Hair Community - it’s one of the best non toxic beauty blogs we’ve ever seen!

Silicone Ingredients Used In Hair Care Products

Amodimethicone- Trimethylsilylamodimethicone- A non-curable amine silicone fluid for hair care products and decorative cosmetics. Provides water resistance.

Amodimethicone (&) C11-15 Pareth-7 (&) Laureth-9 (&) Glycerin (&) Trideceth-12-
An amine functional micro-emulsion for clear, aqueous-based hair products.

Amodimethicone (&) Trideceth-12 (&) Cetrimonium Chloride- Cationic emulsion for hair conditioning.

Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone- Provides excellent hair conditioning without build-up. Ideal for use in products designed to treat colour, perm, sun and heat-damaged hair.

Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone- A colourless silicone fluid with high RI, low viscosity and volatility, shine enhancement and luxurious feel.

C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone- Superior compatibility with both silicones and organics. Can be used as a thickening agent which gives a unique silky skin feel.

Cetearyl Methicone- A soft, waxy material; excellent lubricity and spreadability.

Cetyl Dimethicone- Occlusive film forming for skin conditioners.

Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone- A silicone emulsifier for use in the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions. Also offers good emulsification of paraffin oils and vegetable triglycerides.

Cyclomethicone (&) PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone- For formulating water-in-oil emulsions, particularly water-in-silicone emulsions. Excellent aesthetics.

Cyclopentasiloxane- Cyclomethicone D5- Provides improved efficacy in antiperspirants and wet combing in hair conditioners.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer- Provides a unique feeling during rub-in followed by a soft powdery feel for an extended period. Ideal for cream to powder formulations.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Cyclohexasiloxane- Available in three different proportions offering low viscosity, a relatively high volatility and a cyclic structure.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethicone- The basis for hair serums. Conditioning without build up.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer- An elastomer dispersion resulting in a smooth, highly viscous gel with a unique silky feel on application.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethiconol- Provides a smooth, velvety feel without greasiness. Useful for skincare and hair conditioning.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Trimethylsiloxysilicate- Silicone resin blended with Cyclopentasiloxane. Provides water resistance.

Cyclotetrasiloxane- Cyclomethicone D4- A volatile silicone for improving skin feel in applications such as anti-perspirants.

DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone- Enhances the performance of shampoos and conditioners with improved gloss, manageability and moisturizing properties.

Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate- Highly substantive to skin, has good lubricity and spreadability. Compatible with organic oils and waxes.

Dimethicone Copolyol

Dimethicone (&) Laureth-4 (&) Laureth-23- Non-ionic silicone emulsion for 2-in-1 shampoos.

Dimethicone (&) Trimethylsiloxysilicate- Water resistant, non-tacky film, ideal for sun screens.

Dimethicone (from 1 to 1,000,000 cs)- The original silicone ‘oil’. A complete range is available from the highly mobile 1-20 cs, the popular 50-500 cs and the heavier 1,000-1,000,000 cs.

Dimethiconol (&) Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulphonate- An anionic emulsion for leave-in hair products. Disperses well in aqueous preparations and gives the hair good texture.

Diphenyl Dimethicone- A heat-resistant silicone with good film-forming properties. Used as a skin conditioning and anti foaming agent.

Disiloxane- Volatile replacement for ethanol in APs and aerosols.

Lauryl Methicone Copolyol

PCA Dimethicone- Functional over a broad pH range and offers excellent smoothing, conditioning and emolliency properties in many different applications.

PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone- Previously referred to as Dimethicone Copolyol. A very versatile, water soluble polyether modified silicone for use in skin and hair products.

PEG-12 Dimethicone- Previously referred to as Dimethicone Copolyol. A very versatile, water soluble polyether modified silicone for use in skin and hair products.

Phenyl Trimethicone- A very popular high gloss silicone for spray-on hair products. Also provides emolliency and water repellency in skin care products.

Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate- Color-retaining conditioner for hair products. Also offers thermal protection and a slick, soft after-feel. Excellent solubility and compatibility with most surfactants.

Silicone Resin Spheres (2, 5 & 6 micron)- Fine, white spherical particles give slip and lubricity in pressed and loose powders.

Simethicone- A mixture of Dimethicone and hydrated silica, used as an antifoaming agent. Available in two grades.

Stearoxy Dimethicone

Stearyl Dimethicone

Trimethylsiloxysilicate- A solid silicone resin for decorative cosmetics. Provides water resistance.

Trisiloxane- Anti foaming and skin conditioning agent.

Nathalie Needs To Know:
Which hair lotions and conditioners could be used in Indian Head massage as alternative to any oil?

The Right Brain’s Reply:
In general, lotions and conditioners do not work well for massage because they are a mixture of water, fatty alcohols, and other solid materials. When you rub them into the skin the water evaporates leaving the solid materials that do not spread very well so they start to feel “draggy.”

Pure oils, on the other hand, don’t dry out so they remain lubricious throughout the massage. We don’t know of any lotion that would work as well as an oil, but The Beauty Brains are just chemists, not massage therapists and there maybe a specialty product out there somewhere that we`re not aware of. Hope this helps!

In case our other readers aren`t familiar with this treatment, Indian Head Massage is based on old Ayurvedic techniques involving work on the upper back, shoulders, neck, scalp and face. A variety of massage movements are used to relieve accumulated tension, stimulate circulation and restore joint movement. IHM also supposedly aids the condition and health of the hair, particularly when combined with the use of natural organic oils. We`re all for good massage now and then but there`s no scientific data to show that this can have ANY effect on the health of your hair.

Jim’s Got A Problem:
Here’s my problem. I’m an “older” male who has kept his long hair. Now that I’m left with only about 26,000 hairs!! it’s still long, curly … and once I spend 20 minutes in the shower with a ton of conditioner, looks great.

My hair is SO tangly that virtually every hair I have tangles with every other hair. After gobs of conditioner and 20 minutes in the shower separating every hair from every other hair - 2 days later it’s a tangled mess again. I stopped using any shampoo or soap or anything (except conditioner) a long time ago. I’ve never coloured my hair or used any chemicals on it.

So - what’s the most powerful, de-tangler you know of? I’d be prepared to use some spray on Teflon cookware product it that meant not having to slowly, slowly (from the bottom up naturally) separate every hair with tons of conditioner! Please help this super tangled guy!

The Right Brain Responds:
Jim, as always it’s a pleasure to hear from our male readers. We just wish there was more we could do to help you.

What Makes Hair So Tangly?

It’s possible that you have a medical condition that can cause hair to become excessively tangled. It’s called Uncombable Hair Syndrome and it occurs when your hair shaft is more triangular than cylindrical. Without examining your hair, it’s difficult to determine what your condition really is.

Would A Homemade Moisturizer Help?

Probably not, homemade products just aren’t that powerful. There are plenty of good conditioners that should be sufficient to detangle “normal” hair. Pantene is a great product because it combines fatty alcohols and silicones in a very slippery formula. If you haven’t tried that product, you might give it a shot. You might also try using a wide tooth pick in the shower to work the conditioner through your wet hair. Finally, you might also consider using a leave in conditioner in your hair at night to reducing tangling while you toss and turn in your sleep.

You’ve probably heard some of this advice in the long hair forums, but we hope some of this info helps. Please write back and let The Beauty Brains know how this works out for you.