We’re linking to love this month! All our February questions come from other bloggers and we’re encouraging you to check out their blogs. Today’s question is from our dear friend Moxie at MoxieReviews.com. Visit her today!

Moxie must know…Brazilian Blowouts were found to release formaldehyde. Are the Keratin-based hair-straightening products that I see stylists in salons doing that much safer on hair/environment? 

The Left Brain responds: 

The safety concerns regarding high levels formaldehyde in hair straightening prdoducts has been well documented and inhaling large quantities of formaledhyde gas is a  legitimate health concern. (see this reference.)  Some of the Brazillain Blowout type products contained as much as 10% formaldehyde which far exceeds the safe limits. (Remember: the dose makes the poison!)

The Keratin straightening products you refer to use an entirely different chemistry. (Read our previous post on how temporary hair straighteners work.) These products do physically disrupt the structure of hair so there is some of degree of damage. (Much less than relaxing but more than simply combing and brushing.) However, these products do NOT raise the same health/environmental concerns as products with high levels of formaldehyde.

Image credit: Flikr.com

February is link love month at the Beauty Brains.  All month we’re answering questions from other bloggers to introduce our readers to beauty blogs they may not have seen before. Today’s question comes from one of our new favorites, Michelle at Lab Muffin. Check out her site!

Michelle asks…Are there ANY hair products out there that can actually reconstruct/repair hair (as opposed to just protecting it from further damage)?

The Right Brain responds:
This is a great question because one of our favorite pet peeves are all the products that claim to repair hair but don’t. When you actually look at the science behind those products you find that they are almost always “regular” conditioners. That means they are very good at smoothing the cuticle and helping to prevent future damage but the do nothing to truly repair hair.

Does any hair repair product really work?

There is hope, however, because of new one technology that works differently. This technology is based on a polyelectrolyte complex, or PEC for short. This PEC complex consists of a negatively charged ion (PVM/MA copolymer) and a positively charged ion (Polyquaternium-28.)  This combination of positive and negative charges creates a single complex with the unique ability to stick to damage hairs and to itself.

How does PEC technology repair hair?

What does all this mean? Well, instead of just coating the outside of hair like most conditioners do, the tiny PEC molecules are able to enter the split ends of hair. Because the complex can stick to the damaged hair protein and to other complex molecules, it creates little bridges across the open ends of the splits. As your hair dries, the water evaporates from the complex causing it to contract.  The force of this contraction pulls the end of the split hairs back together again. Once the PECs are dry they bind the split end shut. Watch this video to see what happens when a drop of PEC complex is placed on a split end and dried with a blow dryer:

Which products contain PEC technology?

Nexxus, Joico, and Tresemme all make products containing the Polyelectrolyte Complex. If you’d like to try this new hair repair technology for yourself, please consider buying one of these through the links below. Your purchase helps support the Beauty Brains blog.

Nexxus Pro-Mend Conditioner

Joico K-Pak Reconstruct Split End Mender

Tresemme Split Remedy Conditioner

Image credit: Splitender.com

Reference: Ending the Cycle of Split Ends

LeahSierra says…There’s a video on Youtube by Andrea’s Choice. She used honey to lighten up her hair. I haven’t tried but you can watch the video.

The Left Brain responds:

Thanks, Leah, for the link to this video. In it, Andrea explains how mixing honey (either raw or regular) with either olive oil and banana or with just your regular conditioner can lighten hair. She claims the honey contains peroxide that can bleach hair over time. But does this really work?

Hair lightening science

It’s true that honey contains peroxide. More accurately it contains an enzyme, glucose oxidase, that can produce peroxide.  But keep in mind that peroxide is only an effective bleaching agent at the right concentration and at the right pH.

Concentration: how much peroxide is in honey?

How much peroxide do you need to lighten hair?  To fully bleach hair it takes a solution of peroxide at a concentration of 6%;  3% can be used over time to gradually lighten hair. Glucose oxidase in honey can react to release peroxide under the right conditions.  (It’s also important to note that only raw honey contains this active enzyme.)  When honey is diluted with water, the enzyme can produce about 1 milimole of peroxide per liter which is about 1000 times less than the 3% solution required to bleach hair. This is far too little to have a significant effect on your hair.

Okay,  but just for the sake of argument let’s say that you used a LOT of honey on your hair. Would it work then? Only if the pH was right.

The pH required for bleaching hair

Peroxide solutions must be “activated” by increasing the pH because peroxide is not very reactive at pH below 4.  Typically, peroxide is mixed with ammonia because it has a very high pH. The pH of honey is between 3.2 and 4.5 which is far below the range required for effective hair bleaching.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

IF you use the right kind of honey and IF the enzyme is still active and IF you dilute it properly and IF get it to the right pH and IF you get it on your hair before it’s used up by reaction with the rest of the organic stuff in the mixture. then you’ll STILL have only about 1/1000 of the amount you need to lighten your hair. I guess just because Winnie the Pooh was blonde doesn’t mean that honey can lighten your hair.

Reference:
http://www.worldwidewounds.com/2001/november/Molan/honey-as-topical-agent.html

Image credit: Walt Disney

The Beauty Brains were recently featured in a TODAY.com post telling you how to get the best hairspray performance for the lowest cost.  Below are the complete ingredient lists for all the products referenced in that article. But first….

If you like this kind of stuff and
want to learn how to save $500 per year on cosmetics,
download the Beauty Brains FREE report now! 

Hairspray ingredients

Tresemme Tres II Extra Hold Hairspray
Alcohol Denatured, Hydrofluorocarbon 152a, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl/Methacrylate Copolymer, Amino Methyl Propanol, Dimethyl Stearamide, Fragrance (Parfum), Hexylcinnamal, Butylphenyl Methlyproprional, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Hydroxyisohexl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Glo Radiant Fix Hairspray
SD Alcohol 40-B, Hydrofluorocarbon 152a, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Triethyl Citrate, Fragrance/Parfum, Panthenol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Polyquaternium-59, Butylene Glycol

Scruples High Definition Shaping Spray
Alcohol denat., Hydroflurocarbon 152a, Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, PBX (Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans [Mycopolysaccharides], Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Benzophenone-4, Dimethicone Copolyol), aminomethyl Propanol, Fragrance (Parfum), BCC12-Base.

Paves Professional FLAWless Convertible-Proof Firm Hold Spray
SD Alcohol 40-B, Hydrofluorocarbon 152A, VA, Crotonates, Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Octylacrylamide, Acrylates, Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil Lavender, Geranium Maculatum Oil Geranium, Citrus Medica Oil Lemon, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil Orange, Citrus Clementina Oil Clementine, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil Roman Chamomile, Phytantriol, Polyquaternium-11, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Arginine, Acetyl Tyrosine, Arctium Majus Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Calcium Pantothenate, Zinc Gluconate, Niacinamide, Ornithine HCL, Citrulline, Glucosamine HCL, Biotin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxan, Amino

Ion Mega Hold Freezing Spray
Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.), Hydrofluorocarbon 152a, Water (Aqua), Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/ Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Triethyl Citrate, Phenyl Trimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, AMP-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Fragrance (Parfum), Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Geraniol, Geraniol

Image credit: www.glamour.com

Continuing our look at the top-selling products on Amazon.com…

Even though they are technically Over the Counter (OTC) drugs and not cosmetics, dandruff shampoos are big sellers in the beauty section of Amazon.com. Specifically, two versions of Head & Shoulders dominate the 6th and 7th top selling spots. Who would have thought that SO MANY people have dandruff!! What can we learn by looking at the label?

Head & Shoulders Ocean Lift Shampoo Ingredients

Active Ingredients: Pyrithione Zinc (1%)
This is one of the most common drug ingredients approved to treat dandruff.

Water
Solvent.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Primary surfactants.  Excellent foaming/cleansing agents although some people find them too drying.

Cocamide MEA
An old-school foam booster.

Zinc Carbonate
Added to help stabilize the preservatives in the formula. (The anti-dandruff active can deactivate preservatives leaving the product vulnerable to microbial contamination.)

Glycol Distearate
Opacifying agent. Forms little crystals that make the product look creamy.

Dimethicone
Conditioning agent.

Fragrance
Smells like the sea.

Cetyl Alcohol
Helps provide the creamy look and texture.

Magnesium Sulfate, Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxide
Most likely part of the preservative boosting system.

Sodium Benzoate
Preservative

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
Secondary surfactant.

Benzyl Alcohol
Supposedly reduces eye sting.

Sodium Chloride
Salt for thickening.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone
Preservatives.

Sodium Xylenesulfonate
Additional surfactant that’s probably carried in with one of the other ingredients. Sometimes this is added as a coupling agent to help clarify formulations but this product is opacified so it wouldn’t matter.

PEG 7M
Thickening/viscosity control polymer.

Sea Salt, Fucus Vesiculosus (Bladderwrack), Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract
Marine extracts that don’t do anything except make the formula look more “Ocean Lift-y.”

Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5
Colorants, presumably providing a sea-shade.

Image credit: Drugstore.com

If you have an itchy, flakey scalp and you want to support the Beauty Brains, this is your lucky day! Just click the link below to buy Head & Shoulders and you’ll really be helping us out. Thanks!

Name Your Link