Karen is inquisitive…Can you kindly explain what makes Pureology shampoo feel so much different than anything else I’ve tried? I’m guessing it’s not the botanical infusion!

The Right Brain responds:
Good guess, Karen, the difference has nothing to do with green tea or sandalwood. It’s all about the cleansers and conditioners.

Pureology ingredients

Most shampoos are based on a blend of 1 or 2 primary surfactants with another 1 or two secondary surfactants. Pureology (at least the Anti-fade variant), has 7, count ‘em 7 different cleansing agents: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, and Decyl Glucoside. (Actually the total number of surfactants is more like 9 or 10 if you count some of the minor ingredients.) This cleansing blend gives Pureology an extraordinarily rich lather for a sulfate-free shampoo.

On top of that, it’s formulated with three potent conditioning agents: amodimethicone, a organo-modified silicone that provides excellent conditioning effect; Polyquaternium-7 which also gives excellent wet slip; and a chemically modified guar gum that smooths hair.

Is Pureology perfect?

So what’s the downside, you ask?  For one thing the claims about controlling color fading are over stated.  Based on research we’ve seen, sulfate-free shampoos do not strip less color than their sulfate containing cousins. Plus, at $28 for 10 ounces, Pureology is not cheap! You might want to consider trying EverPure shampoo because it’s a similar formula that costs a lot less.

Would you spend $28 on a bottle of shampoo? Leave a comment and share your thoughts on shampoo spending with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Indi-Curl wonders…I have just started a No-Poo hair care routine for my ultra-curly hair and I have a question about leave-in products that are compatible with the system. I know to avoid silicone, and I do, but I was wondering about products with Mineral oil in them. My favorite leave-in treatment contains Mineral oil.  Is a conditioner like VO5 strong enough to cleanse hair when this type product is used? I couldn’t find any real information online about it. Everyone just says not to use Mineral oil at all, but it works great on my hair! My hair has never looked better, but I want to make sure I don’t have any buildup problems down the road. Thanks!

Left Brain explains
For the people who don’t know it, the No-Poo hair care routine is basically washing your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo. People also call it Co-washing as in Conditioner Washing. Some say it originated with a stylist in Australia but it’s tough to know where these things actually start. The reason people do it is because they want to avoid the harsh effects of shampoo surfactants on their hair. Another strategy is to use Dry Shampoo but we’ll save that for another post.

How can conditioner wash hair?

There is some science and logic behind this hair care regime. Shampoos are typically composed of about 10-15% detergent. They use anionic surfactants like Sodium Laureth Sulfate of Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate which do an excellent job of cleaning and removing oil from hair.

Conditioners also have detergents in them but a different kind. They use cationic surfactants (or quats) which have the tendency to stick to the hair where they provide conditioning. Common ingredients are Cetrimonium Chloride or Distearyldimonium Chloride and are used at 1-5%. Although they do stick to the hair, these ingredients also have the ability to cleanse the hair. This is why the No-Poo washing system can work.

Avoid Mineral Oil?

The reason people say to avoid silicones and mineral oil is because the amount of detergent used in conditioners may not be enough. This may or may not be true. It really depends on your hair and the way it is left feeling to you. The VO5 conditioner should be enough to remove mineral oil, but you have to try it to know for sure. It may even be good enough to remove silicone!

If you are unsatisfied with the way your hair feels after trying the No-Poo method, you should consider occasionally washing your hair or trying a VO5 Hot Oil treatment. I know this might sound odd, but the Hot Oil treatment does not actually have oil in it! It is composed of a quat (like the VO5 conditioner) called Cocotrimonium Chloride. You can use this product and it will give your hair a good cleaning without using the harsh surfactants of shampoo. It even foams.

Beauty Brains bottom line

There is no scientific reason to avoid using Mineral Oil or Silicone if you are using the No-poo method of cleansing. It just depends on whether you like the way your hair feels or not.

No-poo or Co-washing is not for everyone, but some people like the way it makes their hair feel. It will be less damaging, less exposure to chemicals, and may even do a better job of protecting your hair color & shape. However, I doubt the shampoo companies are too worried about everyone switching. While it may be less damaging, it also leaves your hair feeling a bit “dirty”…and it is.

Have you tried the No-poo washing method or even the dry shampoo option? Leave a comment below and let the rest of the Beauty Brains community know what you thought.

Mid Brain reports:

It turns out, more is not always better, at least not when it comes to laser hair removal.

In an article published in the Archives of Dermatology, scientists report that a treatment with a single type of laser was more effective than one with two kinds of lasers.  Twenty individuals were treated in various spots with a Nd:YAG laser, an alexandrite laser, or a combination of those.  They found that the most effective, least painful treatment was the alexandrite laser.  It had an 84.3% reduction in hair versus a 73.6% reduction of the combined laser.  The combination treatment also caused more burning (an unfortunate side effect of this procedure).

Does laser hair removal work?

According to this research, laser hair removal does work. It is believed to work by destroying the hair follicles. The other finding was that this treatment lasts.   After an 18-month follow-up, the hair removal treatment was still effective.  So, if you can get past the pain of the procedure, it does work.  And it’s certainly longer lasting than both shaving or waxing.

Have you had a hair removal laser treatment?  Did it work for you?  Leave a comment and let the rest of the Beauty Brains community know.

This month Mid Brain reports on new cosmetic science stories while the Left and Right Brains take time off to work on the new Beauty Brains book.

Mid Brain reports:

It sounds sketchy to me, but here’s a new hair care product designed to prevent acne: Kairos Anti-acne Hair Care Treatment.

The active ingredient is Salicylic acid, a legitimate anti-acne ingredient (that has anti-dandruff properties as well.) But I don’t get it. It’s a shampoo so I see how it could help control acne on your scalp. But is scalp acne really a big problem? I usually don’t get zits on the top of my head. Or, are you supposed to wash your face with it while you wash your hair so it’s a kind of two in one product? Sounds more like a marketing gimmick than a product breakthrough to me.

What do YOU think? Would you use an anti-acne shampoo? Leave a comment and share your pimply prose with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Cindy’s sassy about Sebastian…What’s up with Sebastian Shaper Hairspray? Everyone I know who uses it just freaks out about this stuff but I can’t even find it because it’s always out of stock. Is there something really better or different about this hairspray compared to other brands?

The Right Brain responds:

Actually, Cindy, there is a simple answer to your question. Many hairsprays are formulated with a chemical that is TERRIBLE for your hair style. This chemical causes your hair to droop and lose its style almost the instant it is applied. Sebastian wisely chooses to NOT use this chemical in their aerosol hairspray and that’s one of the primary reasons their product is so good.

Sebastian Shaper’s secret

The secret to Sebastian’s formula is: WATER. That’s right. simple H20. Many companies use water in their aerosol hairsprays because it’s much cheaper. But when water contacts the hair, it loosens some of the internal bonds and causes the hair to lose its style. If you can avoid water in your hairspray you’ll get a much better style. (Of course there are other ingredients in the formula that control how well the hairspray holds. You can read our series on Adorable Aerosols if you want to learn more.)

Hairsprays that are “all wet”

If you like the way Sebastian makes your hair feel, you’ll want to avoid these brands that formulate their hairsprays with water:

• Pantene Pro-V Texturize
• Suave Max Hold
• Herbal Essences Body Envy Volumizing
• Got 2b Styltini
• Garnier Fructis Style Volumizing Anti-Humidity
• Dove Hairspray, Extra Hold
• Rusk W8less Plus Shaping and Control
• Aussie Instant Freeze

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Water is bad for your hairstyle but if you can’t afford Sebastian shop around for other hairsprays that don’t use water. How can you tell? Turn the can over and read the ingredient list!

What’s YOUR favorite hairspray? Leave a comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.