Bandana asks…Since I’ve been trying to get pregnant over the last year, I’ve become more concerned about toxicity. I probably eat a sizeable amount of lipstick. I am not your usual “organic” type, but I was surprised to see the list of ingredients for my favorite lipstick, Avon’s Beyond Color Plumping Lipstick. Are organic lipsticks worth the hype?? I’ve seen that Bare Minerals has a natural lipstick, but I’m not feeling $25 per tube. I’m more of a drugstore type girl. I’m not loaded with money and don’t want to be more paranoid than I should be.

The Right Brain responds:

“Regular” lipstick like the Avon example you gave costs $8.00 ($3.99 on sale!) where as the Bare Minerals “100% natural” lipstick is $25.  It’s really impossible for us to make the value judgment for you, but we can help by telling you if there are any significant technical differences between the two. (One point of clarification: although you asked about Bare Minerals “organic” lipstick, the company does not make the claim the this product is organic. They only state that it is “100% organic.)

Ingredient comparison

It looks like the Bare Minerals formula is quite different from a typical lipstick because a) it only uses iron oxide pigments as colorants and b) it does not contain any of the petroleum-derived emollients typically found in lipsticks. (For the sake of thoroughness, the complete ingredient listing for each product is included below.)

Natural vs synthetic

As you’re probably aware, the debate over the safety of natural versus synthetic ingredients is not as simple as “all natural is good and all synthetic is bad.” For example, synthetic dyes like those used used in the Avon product are accused of containing carcinogens. And natural lavender extract, like the oil used in the Bare Minerals lipstick, is said to cause headaches and irritate skin. Whether or not you believe any of these specific accusations is beside the point but it’s important to recognize that these ingredients are ALL chemicals and depending on the dose, chemicals may have undesirable side effects. So rather than make this a debate about toxicology, we’ll try to answer your question by making a couple of quick assumptions to simply the argument about whether an an ingredient “natural” or not.  This is no trivial point since currently there is no standard definition “natural” as it relates to beauty products. But for the sake of this discussion, rate each product on a based on four basic factors as described in the table below:

As is typically the case with natural products, tradeoffs must be made:  if you want to avoid “synthetic” chemicals you’ll have to accept a limited number of color choices. (That’s because iron oxides, the mineral pigments used to provide color, are only available in a few reddish-brownish-yellowish shades.) You’ll also have to give up long lasting color because these iron oxides don’t stain the lips like synthetic dyes do. Are these good trade-offs to make? Maybe, but we can’t make that value judgement for you. We can only try to frame the question and provide a few helpful facts.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Unfortunately there is no easy, one-size-fits-all answer to your question.  Whether or not so-called natural lipstick is a good value depends on what’s most important to you. If you want to limit potential intake of “chemicals” (even though the best science available doesn’t indicate that this is a significant risk) AND if you don’t mind a limited number of “earth-tone” colors, then a “100% Natural” product may be a good choice for you. But,  you’ll need to spend more for those benefits.

What do YOU think? Are you willing to spend more for products that say they are natural? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Image credit: farm1.static.flickr.com

References:
Avon website
Bare Minerals website

Avon

OCTINOXATE, DIISOSTEARYL FUMARATE, SQUALANE, POLYBUTENE, BARIUM SULFATE, OZOKERITE, MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX/CIRE, MICROCRISTALLINE, DI-C12-15 ALKYL FUMARATE, POLYETHYLENE, ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH, CETYL ALCOHOL, PETROLATUM, CALCIUM, SODIUM BOROSILICATE, SILICA, ALLANTOIN, BEESWAX/CIRE D’ABEILLE, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, CHOLESTERYL/BEHENYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, BEHENYL ERUCATE, LAUROYL LYSINE, ALOE BARBADENSIS EXTRACT, ALLYL METHACRYLATES CROSSPOLYMER, LECITHIN, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL, HYDROGENATED STARCH HYDROLYSATE, RETINOL, PEG-80 SORBITAN LAURATE, ACRYLATES/CARBAMATE COPOLYMER, SACCHAROMYCES LYSATE EXTRACT. C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, COLLAGEN, ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, HYALURONIC ACID, TRIBEHENIN, RETINYL PALMITATE, NIACINAMIDE POLYPEPTIDE, PANTOTHENIC ACID POLYPEPTIDE, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, RIBOFLAVIN POLYPEPTIDE, BIOTIN POLYPEPTIDE, PYRIDOXINE POLYPEPTIDE, THIAMINE POLYPEPTIDE. ASCORBYL PALMITATE, FOLIC ACID POLYPEPTIDE, CYANOCOBALAMIN POLYPEPTIDE, BETA-CAROTENE. PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE, MICA, IRON OXIDES, RED 7 LAKE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, RED 6 LAKE, BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE, RED 33 LAKE, YELLOW 5 LAKE, YELLOW 6 LAKE, BLUE 1 LAKE, RED 27 LAKE, CARMINE, YELLOW 10 LAKE, ORANGE 5 LAKE, RED 21 LAKE, RED 40 LAKE, RED 30 LAKE

Bare Minerals

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Barium Sulfate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Silica, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Mica, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Carmine (CI 75470)

Product Girl raved about the new Carmex Moisture Plus Tints. She loves the color and says that “not the same Carmex you grew up with. It still has that familiar smell.” How did they keep the classic Carmex scent in a new lip color? Let’s look at the label to see.

Ingredients

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate (5.8%), Oxybenzone (4.8%).
Sunscreens.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (Aloe Butter)
Moisturizer.

Beeswax
Wax that gives the product thickness and structure.  

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter Fruit)
Natural emollient to smooth and soften lips.

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Emulsifiers that also provide slip and emolliency

Camphor
One of three “magic” ingredients that give that unique Carmex quality.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Another emulsifier/emollient; derived from coconut oil.

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Natural oils that moisturize lips.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Mild skin smoothing ester that helps disperse lip color. 

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
Another bodifying wax. 

Flavor
This gives the product its plum or berry flavor. 

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollients, spreading agents.

Lecithin
Natural emulsifier.

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
Emollient/moisturizer.

Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone
Moisturizing ingredient that reduces water loss through the skin. 

Menthol
The second of three Carmex-scented ingredients.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
Waxy materials that contribute to the texture of the product. 

Ozokerite
A third wax.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Anti-aging ingredient that can supposedly increase collagen and elastin production.

Paraffin
Another waxy material. This one comes from petrochemicals. 

Persea Gratissima (Avocado Butter)
Natural moisturizer. 

Phenol
The third and final ingredient that makes this product distinctly “Carmex-y.” 

PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Still more oily materials to provide lip slip.

Saccharin
Lo-cal sweetener.

Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Tristearate
Emulsifiers.

Tocopheryl Linoleate (Vitamin E Linoleate)
Antioxidant, may also provide some moisturization.

Tribehenin
A smoothing lubricant and humectant.

Titanium Dioxide (CI 778912), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Red 6 Lake (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090)
Coloring agents.

Image credit: CVS.com

A Girl’s Gotta Spa waxed eloquently about red lip color, specifically Dr. Hauschka’s Intense Garnet.  If you like her description of this red shade, let’s look at the label to see which dyes to look for (and to learn what the other ingredients do.)

Ingredients

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Natural lubricating, moisturizing oils that help the waxes spread on your lips.

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
No function but it looks good on the label!

Lanolin
Sheep wool extract that moisturizes lips and lubricates the stick so it spreads easily on your lips.

Beeswax (Cera Alba)
Waxes like this give the stick a strong structure yet still keep it spreadable. Also the name of Jessica Alba’s youngest daughter.

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
Although it’s not an approved colorant, if there’s enough present in the formula it could help stain the lips. 

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
These waxes with the beeswax to keep the stick firm but not too firm.

Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Anthyllis Vulneraria Extract
Sounds pretty, doesn’t do squat. 

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
More natural lubricating oils (provided there’s enough in here to make a difference!)

Rosa Damascena Flower Wax
Flower-derived moisturizing agent. I doubt there’s very much in the formula given how low it appears on the ingredient list.  

Fragrance (Parfum)
To mask the smell (and taste) of the waxes and oils.

Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Limonene, Geraniol, Benzyl Salicylate, Eugenol
The label calls these “component of natural essential oils” which is true, but the real reason they’re listed is because they are known fragrance allergens and by law have to be declared on the label. 

Maltodextrin
Controls texture, adds a touch of sweetness.

Lecithin
Helps stabilize the oil and wax mixture. 

Silica
Mineral powder and spreading agent.

Mica
Mmmmm, sparkly bits!

Carmine (CI 75470)
Natural red colorant that come from crushed insects. (It’s true, look it up!)

Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)
Colorants approved for use on the lips. These and the Carmine are what give this product its unique red shade. Look for all these on the label in other lipsticks if you like this color. 

Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
A whitening, opacifying agent.

Image courtesy Marie Claire.

Veuve asks…Since I have a lot of lipstick and it seems to be one of the cosmetics that goes bad relatively quickly, I was wondering if keeping it in the refrigerator or freezer would help it last longer. Or would the moisture/cold do something nasty to the oils or pigments?

The Left Brain responds:

Good question, Veuve. Making your cosmetics last longer is a great way to save money.

Low temp lipstick

When it comes to making cosmetics last longer, lower temperature is generally better. That’s because chemical reactions occur faster at higher temperatures. (A rough rule of thumb is that the rate of any given reaction will double with every 10C increase in temperature.)  Lipsticks are prone to oxidation reactions that can turn certain oils rancid and keeping your sticks in the ‘fridge can slow down that process.  The only potential problem that may occur is that you may see beads of “sweat” on the stick. These are drops of oil coming out of the wax matrix and rising to the surface of the stick. This is a phenomena known as “syneresis.” If too much of this sweating occurs, the lipstick won’t spread properly on your lips.

By the way, the idea of cooling cosmetics to prolong their shelf life is not a new one. In fact, one enterprising inventor has even patented a refrigerated makeup bag so you can chill on the go. It’s an airtight handbag with a pocket on the top panel where you insert frozen gel packs that keep your  lipsticks and other makeup protected from heat.

What do YOU think? Do you refrigerate your cosmetics to protect them? Leave a cool comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Here’s a good example of beauty and brains coming together: a gadget that allows you to attach lip balm to your watch, your cell phone, your pager, or other portable electronic device. It even works on sunglasses!

It’s called “Care4lipz” and you can read about it here. The manufacturer, First Dutch Europe B.V., offers this tiny techy tub with lip balm or lip gloss and with UV sunscreen in a variety of flavors.

It makes us wonder what opportunities there are for other miniature marvels. How about small packs of breath mints? Maybe a tiny tube of mascara?

It’s not exactly nanotechnology, but it is pretty cool! Of course, it would be cooler if they made it in pink.

Note: I just found out that  Care4Lipz went out of business and that the the original US inventor Erik Nordskog, Promo Lip Balm has re-branded the original Zebug for the North American retail market.  The product now sells under the brand name Lip Pods. Details can be found at http://www.lippods.com.