From The Beauty Brains Forum Member: Purple Rules

Neutrogena has introduced two new products that promise to make you look great and to improve the condition of your skin and lashes as well. I tried out the Healthy Volume Mascara and the Nourishing Eye Duos.

Super-size it

The mascara promises to give you 400% fuller lashes and to moisturize, protect and improve the condition of your lashes. 400% fuller lashes! Even professional athletes only promise 110 %. They say “the exclusive super sized Visible Volume Brush quickly coats and builds every single lash.” The brush certainly is super sized. It’s on the far left in the picture and is clearly larger than any of the other brushes. The mascara contains Olive, Meadowfoam Seed and Sweet Almond Oil, which “penetrate lashes on all dimensions to moisturize, protect and improve the condition of lashes” and rinses clean with water.

Big brush

The proof is in the pudding, of course; what really matters is how it applies and how it wears. The super sized brush made applying the mascara a challenge at first but gave me soft, natural looking eyelashes. The mascara didn’t clump or smudge and still looked great at the end of the day. I wasn’t able to remove it with water alone but it came off easily with a little help from a gentle cleanser. One coat resulted in a nice, natural look. Two coats gave me a little more oomph without getting clumpy or spidery. I don’t think my lashes were 400% fuller but I don’t own calipers so I can’t be sure.

Eye conditioner

The eye shadow duos are “the next evolution in eye shadow.” They contain a multi-vitamin complex that is “clinically proven to condition the delicate skin around the eye.” Each duo contains a coordinated base and accent color. The colors are sheer and easy to apply. I tried “Sweet Dusk” (a great color if you have green eyes) and “Iced Coffee.” They’re not highly pigmented and appear much lighter on. They stayed on well when I used a primer underneath but when I tried to build up the color for a more dramatic effect, I had problems with creasing.

Healthy and wholesome

Both products give you a healthy, natural look that’s entirely in keeping with Neutrogena’s wholesome image. I don’t know if my lashes and the skin around my eyes are healthier then before but both products apply easily and stay on well. They also wash off easily, which is important. There’s nothing more frustrating then watching your lashes go down the drain along with your makeup. You’re not going to achieve a dramatic evening look with these products but that’s not what we’ve come to expect from Neutrogena.

The mascara sells for 7.99 and the eye shadow duos sell for 8.49.

What kind of make up looks best on your? Natural and wholesome, or dramatic and glamorous? Leave a comment and let us know. Or, you can start a thread and talk to Purple Rules directly in the Beauty Brains Forum. And if you’re interested in getting free goodies of your own, join the Forum now and show us you’ve got what it takes to be a Beauty Brainiac!

CMH asks: I’ve read a lot of hype about MAC Liquidlast Liners being “industrial strength” eyeliners. They are smudgeproof and waterproof to the extent that they stay on the skin for days (five days, in the case of one reviewer) in spite of showering and washing. They only come off with oil-based makeup removers and quite a bit of rubbing. What does MAC Liquidlast Liner contain that makes them adhere so tenaciously to the skin?

The Right Brain replies:
We haven’t tested MAC’s liquidliners so we can’t attest to their ability to last for several days, but we can comment on their chemistry. Eyeliners are similar to mascaras in their composition, so, before we begin, you should go read our previous post on how regular mascaras work. All done? Ok, let’s continue.

How eyeliners work

As you know from what you just read, most mascaras (and eyeliners) rely on waxes and oils to hold the pigments in place. But there are a newer style of eye products that employ a different kind of chemistry. These products use acrylic polymers instead of waxes. The properties of these polymers can be controlled by how they are neutralized and how they are mixed with other ingredients that have a plasticizing, or softening, effect. Products made with these polymers can be made very soft and water washable or very hard and long lasting. Blinc mascara is one type that uses this kind of formulation approach. (Have you read our post on how Blinc makes tiny little tubes around your lashes?) Another product that uses this polymer technology is the MAC Liquidlast liner that you asked about.

Why is MAC so waterproof?

Let’s look at the ingredients MAC uses:

Water (purified), Propylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Hectorite, Glyceryl Stearate, TEA-Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Acrylates Crosspolymer, Oleyl Alcohol, Isopropyparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ultramarines, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Carmine, Chromium Hydroxide Green, Chromium Oxide Green, Blue 1 Lake, Yellow 5 Lake

Based on this list, our guess is that MAC uses a lower amount of neutralizing agent (Triethanolamine, or TEA for short), which makes the film formed by the polymer (the Acrylates/C10-30 Acrylates Crosspolymer) longer lasting. The trade off is that this type of eyeliner can be very hard to wash off. So you have to decide what’s more important for you – long lasting or easy to wash off. Like having your cake and eating it too, you can’t have both.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

If you like this effect, this is a good product for you. But if you want a more conventional feel from your eyeliner, you might consider Revlon Colorstay Eyeliner or Anna Sui Liquid Eyeliner.

Beauty Brains News Flash:

The US FDA recently approved a new black pigment for eyeshadows and mascaras that is made from charred cow bones. The ingredient contains small, but safe, levels of carcinogens.

Alexia asks: I was genetically condemned with the most colorless lashes in the world, which make me look like an alien or a corpse (or maybe an alien corpse?) I was thinking about dying my lashes but I found that it’s illegal in some places because several people went blind! Then, I found a product called Colorsport 30-day Mascara, which is supposed to be a permanent eyelash color. I’m desperate to try it, but I’m also partial to eyesight. Will I go blind if I dye my lashes?

The Right Brain shows her the light:
You’re right, Alexia, in the U.S. eyelash dying products are considered to be illegal and unsafe.

What is eyelash dye?

Eyelash dying products use the same kind of dyes as permanent hair colors. For example, the Colorsport product you mentioned contains 2-Chloro-p-phenylenediamine; 2,6 Diaminopyridine and m-Aminophenol. These chemicals are referred to as “oxidative dyes” because they must be mixed with an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide) before they will work. The oxidizing agent causes the dye molecules to polymerize, or link together, to create intense shades.

Why is dying lashes dangerous?

Oxidative dyes are very reactive chemicals and can induce an allergic reaction in some people that causes painful rash or even blistering. That’s why permanent hair colors instruct you to test the product on a small spot of your skin before applying it to your scalp. (Not many people do it, but read the label on your Clairol or L’Oreal dye and you’ll see it.) Since your eyes are even more sensitive than your scalp, an allergic reaction there is much more dangerous. There have been a few cases, dating back to the 1930s, of women being blinded (and even killed!) from allergic reactions to these kinds of dyes.

That’s why the U.S. FDA says these dyes represent “an acute, severe hazard to health with the possibility of permanent injury; i.e.,impaired sight, including blindness.”

“Permanent eyelash and eyebrow tints and dyes have been known to cause serious eye injuries, including blindness. There are no color additives approved by FDA for permanent dyeing or tinting of eyelashes and eyebrows.”

How can Colorsport sell an illegal product?

There are two reasons : First, Colorsport is made in the UK and these products are not illegal there because the jurisdiction of the FDA is limited to the US. For reasons we can’t fathom, the European Union does not seem to be as concerned about this danger and so there are several eyelash dyes available in the UK. The FDA tries to stop these products from being brought into the US but it’s tough to stop people from ordering them online.

Second, there are salons in the US that still offer this service but they’re just that are just ignoring the law (and the danger!) They use the argument that “I’ve been dying eyelashes for years and never had a problem.” But the reality is, every credible source on this topic says that the risk is not worth the reward. So stick with a good mascara and leave the hair dyes off your lashes.

Angel Asks: I’m using Maybelline Great Lash right now but it’s not really doing anything for me because I want longer and thicker lashes. I saw a commercial for this new Revlon 3D Extreme mascara, that gives 17X fuller, 70% curvier, and 50% visibly longer lashes. Please tell me if it’s any good before I waste my money. The Right Brain responds:

Is Maybelline better than Revlon?

As you know from our previous posts, mascara works by coating your tiny eyelash hairs with ingredients like waxes and polymers. The thickening effect varies greatly from product to product depending on which ingredients they use and how much they put in. So, we did a quick side by side comparison with the two products you asked about to see if we could see any major difference. Here’s what we found:

Seeing is believing

Photo one shows lashes treated with Great Lash. You’ll notice that on these lashes it looks like most of the coating is concentrated on the upper 1/3 or so of the lash. Not much is on the tips of the lashes.

Photo 2 shows Revlon 3D lashes. These lashes look like they’ve got more coating on the tips. It also appears like the natural curl of the lash is accentuated.

What do all the numbers mean?

We have no way of telling if 3D mascara really thickens and curls as much as Revlon claims. Companies are required to have support for their advertising and since Revlon is a reputable company, let’s assume they have SOME kind of data that shows such large percentage increases. The exact size of the number doesn’t really matter. It’s kind of a advertising game that is used by many companies in many different industries: create a test that gives you the type of claim you want to market. There’s nothing wrong with that as long as the advertising isn’t misleading. And in this case, at least from our quick side-by-side test, 3D looks like it does a pretty decent job. Interested? You can click here to shop for Revlon 3D mascara.

Have any of our Beauty Brainiacs tried this product?

One of the most popular topics on the Beauty Brains is the Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelash. People always want to know, “will this product make my eyelashes grow?” “Is it worth $160 for less than 1 ounce of product?”

No evidence for lash growth

We’ve looked high and low but have not been able to find any scientific studies that would support that this product will make your eyelashes grow thicker and longer. But that hasn’t stopped people from leaving comments telling us how wrong we are. They insist that there is a special off-label glaucoma drug that Jan Marini uses in the product to make eyelashes grow. Or they insist that they’ve used it and it makes their eyelashes grow. While we’re skeptical, we continue to look for credible research that shows this product really works.

Passionate comments

Here is a recent comment that prompted some more research. Jim writes…

Everyone has a right to their opinion, but blatant misinformation is not only inaccurate, but harmful.The new Age Intervention Eyelash product does work. Jan Marini Skin Research replaced the original prostaglandin analog with another customized prostaglandin analog that actually appears to be even more effective than the original. There was never a patent issue and Jan Marini Skin Research has patents pending on both the original and new formulations. The product has enormous positive media attention along with a huge celebrity following. Physicians throughout the US and abroad have validated the tremendous efficacy of the formula and continue to recommend it to their patients. There is no doubt regarding the amazing results. In addition, the company has excellent safety studies. This continued bashing and misinformation needs to stop. A loyal and informed fan.

Patent pending?

Well, there are certainly some testable claims here even though no references were given. First, we looked at the claim that they’ve got patents pending. Well, a search at the United States Patent Office reveals no such patents pending for Jan Marini.

Second, “the product does work.” This we agree with. Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelash does work, just like every other mascara you can buy. It DOES NOT work to make your eyelashes grow longer or thicker and we have excellent proof.

What does Jan Marini say?

Just look at what the company says on their own website about the Age Intervention product. We quote

“Age Intervention Eyelash Conditioner is not intended to stop, prevent, cure, relieve, reverse or reduce eyelash loss or to promote the growth of eyelashes”

The company admits that it will not grow your eyelashes! What more proof is needed?

Word of mouth

Third, that a product has a “huge celebrity following” and is endorsed by unnamed physicians throughout the US is not proof of anything. Everyone is susceptible to glitzy marketing and wishful thinking. And if you’ve spent $160 for a cosmetic to make your eyelashes grow, you probably don’t want to admit that you’ve been fooled. It’s ok, no one wants to but it happens.

Kathie Lee’s question: I’ve been using Maybelline clear mascara to add shape and definition to my brows but my friend tells me I should be using a brow gel. Is there was any difference between clear mascara that’s specifically designated for your lashes and clear eye brow gel?

The Right Brain responds:

Clear mascara is different than regular mascara because it’s not wax based. Maybelline Clear Lash, for example, consists of base of water and alcohol, thickened with a chemical called Carbomer, and a film forming agent called PVA (Polyvinyl alcohol) that gives your lashes some stiffness.

Now consider an eye brow gel like Paula Dorf Perfect Eyes Brow Gel or EyeBrowz. We’ll use the EyeBrowz Gel as an example because it doesn’t have a silly name like “Dorf.” The Eyebrowz formula is also water based and is thickened with Carbomer. But it doesn’t contain alcohol and it uses PVP as a film former instead of PVA. (That’s not a big difference.)

These formulas use pretty much the same ingredients so they should have a similar feel. (Without testing we can’t tell if one formula uses a higher level of the film formers so we can’t say for sure.) There’s no technical reason why you couldn’t use clear mascara on your eyebrows, but it really comes down to your personal taste. Why don’t you test it for yourself: use one product on one eye and the other product on the other. Write back and let The Beauty Brains know how the experiment works out!

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Beauty Bug is bugged: The Beauty Bug got into a mascara conversation with the Store Director of Sephora who said that all/most drug store formulations contained tar which makes your lashes fall out. Is this true? The Left Brain responds:

We love these stories about how salon/specialty store products like Blinc and Darphin use safer chemicals than mass market products. If you compare the ingredients you’ll see that many of these brands use similar, if not identical, ingredients.

So how did this rumor about tar in mascara get started? It could be because “coal tar” dyes have been used in permanent hair colors. But these chemicals are not approved for mascara.

So you can rest assured that Revlon, Covergirl and the other drug store brands do not contain tar that will make your lashes fall out. Thinks about it - MILLIONS of women use these products. If they did make your lashes fall out, our cities would be filled with bald-eyed women!

By the way, if you’re interested in learning more, read our post on how mascara works.

Amy Asks: I have recently purchased Blinc’s Kiss Me Mascara. It works, via their product description, as “tubing” your lashes instead of “painting” them. Let me tell you, it’s beyond cool to take of my mascara at night and physically see it coming off in tubes from just “water and pressure” as the directions advise. My eyes water when it’s cold out, so I’ve found that my standard mascara doesn’t work in frigid temperatures. I’ve resorted to a fiber mascara, but I do like this tubing since it is easier to take this off. Can you explain how it works?…Like a good reader, I do know how “standard” mascara works.

The Right Brain Answers:

Hairspray in a mascara

Unlike most mascaras which are made with waxes, Blinc’s Kiss Me is formulated with acrylate polymers. These polymers are similar to the ones used in hairsprays and they’re what give Kiss Me its ability to form tiny tubes.

Two kinds of strength

When you apply any mascara to your lashes you’re coating the tiny hairs with a layer of product. When you try to remove the mascara, two factors come into play: cohesive strength (how well the mascara sticks to itself) and adhesive strength (how well it sticks to the eyelash.)

The coolness of Blinc

Regular mascaras, even LashFusion, have a low cohesive strength and a relatively high adhesive strength. That means when you try to remove regular mascaras they come off in little bits and pieces. Kiss Me mascara, on the other hand, has a high cohesive strength and lower adhesive strength. Therefore, the mascara tends to stay in one piece as it slides off your lashes. That’s why it looks like tiny tubes. That is cool!

A previous post on Jan Marini Eyelash Growth product prompted many comments. Most of the comments were anecdotal stories about how people used the product and were convinced that it was the greatest thing they’d ever tried. While reports from users are interesting, they aren’t “proof” that the product works. It’s a basic Beauty Brain belief.

“Anecdotal evidence does not prove anything”

This Beauty Brain remained highly skeptical in a way that would make my heroine Rebecca Watson proud.

But then the following comment was posted…

Hello Everyone,
I can`t stand the confusion anymore. Here is the scoop. The OLD Jan Marini eyelash product did indeed work. It had a DRUG in it for GLaucoma that had a known side effect of hair growth. A larger company already has a patent on it for this use. THAT IS THE REASON WHY IT WAS TAKEN OFF THE MARKET FOR MONTHS. Not surprisingly, the active secret ingredient was not disclosed on Jan Marini`s label. It did work however, so I hope that settles the confusion. People were using a DRUG!!!(for glaucoma)

The NEW formulation does not have the drug in it. It was released last week. the new product probably will not work since there is nothing in it that can make eyelashes grow. The company is in fact writing letters to consumers telling them that the product is different. This is such a travesty. Thousands of people are waiting
for the back ordered product, and now they will be getting nothing. The public always loses. I guess it is very difficult to come up with a safe, cosmetic product that indeed makes eyelashes grow. So, the OLD JM EYElash did work for most people, and now that is GONE. The new one has no drug in it. We are too late to do any studies. Sorry!

I still remained skeptical but it prompted me to look into the claims and there just may be something to what this commenter said.

It turns out that in 2003, a group of dermatologist published a paper in the Dermatology Online Journal suggesting that a drug used for glaucoma (latanoprost) actually stimulated eyelash growth. This could be the basis for the Jan Marini eyelash product.

I was amazed that this could be true! It seems to me that this would’ve been HUGE news in the cosmetic business and the general public. But it went by without nearly a mention. Imagine the money this discovery could bring in!

Then I dug a little deeper and found out why the discovery likely passed unnoticed. Subsequent studies were not able to repeat what the original scientists demonstrated. According to these scientists in an article published in 2005 in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, topical application of latanoprost was NOT EFFECTIVE.

Not having seen the original papers, I can’t say which research study is more believable. However, in terms of credibility, the American Academy of Dermatology is one of the premiere organizations in the area of dermatology so they win out there. Additionally, amazing claims like “Renews hair growth” require amazing proof. One paper in an online journal that can’t be reproduced by peers is hardly amazing proof.

Beauty Brains bottom line:
Jan Marini eyelash growth product could’ve been based on a drug used for glaucoma, and there is at least one study to back-up the use of that drug for eyelash growth. However, the work was not repeatable and we don’t know for certain that the Jan Marini product used the drug anyway! I continue to remain skeptical.

No cosmetic will make any of your hair grow.

ALERT: The story has been updated. Jan Marini Admits product will not re-grow eyelashes.