The Beauty Brains are linking and hopefully you’re loving it! All our questions this month come from other beauty bloggers, like Jenn of Literature Couture. Check out her creative character makeup tutorials!

Jenn asks…I’m loving the new Sally Hansen Nail Effects, but I’m have two questions about them. One, how exactly does the company manage to use real nail polish that isn’t dried and crumbly by the time I open the package? Two, is there a way for me to make my own strips to avoid the hassle of manicuring my non-dominant hand?

The Right Brain responds:

Regular nail polishes are a mix of film forming agents, adhesive polymers, and colorants all dissolved in a solvent cocktail (usually ethyl and butyl acetate with a dash of isopropyl alcohol.) To “stripify” the polish, Sally Hansen’s Nail Effects use a formula that’s a little more plastic-y than a regular nail polish. It looks like they’ve applied the polish to flexible substrate (polyethylene terephthalate) and dried off all the solvent. The result is a strip of nail polish that remains flexible but still sticky enough to adhere to your nail.

Can you DIY nail effects?

Sure, it’s actually quite simple. First, get an advanced degree in organic chemistry. Then, gain access to a mixture of over 2 dozen flammable chemicals and the associated equipment you’ll need to mix them properly, then…ok, I guess it isn’t quite so easy. This chemistry is quite complex and even the most accomplished DIY formulator would have problems doing this at home. Looks like you’re stuck with Sally’s strips for now.

Sally Hansen Nail Effects Ingredients

NITROCELLULOSE, POLYETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE, ADIPIC ACID/NEOPENTYL GLYCOL/TRIMELLITIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER, BIS(GLYCIDOXYPHENYL)PROPANE/BISAMINOMETHYLNORBORNANE COPOLYMER, ACETYL TRIBUTYL CITRATE, TRIPHENYL PHOSPHATE, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, BUTYL ACETATE, CALCIUM ALUMINUM BOROSILICATE, POLYVINYL BUTYRAL, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, STEARALKONIUM BENTONITE, SHELLAC CERA/SHELLAC WAX/CIRA DE LAQUE, DIHYDROXYETHYL COCAMINE OXIDE, BENZOPHENONE-3, SILICA, TIN OXIDE, [May Contain/Peut Contenir/+/-:MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), D&C RED NO. 6 BARIUM LAKE (CI 15850), D&C RED NO. 7 CALCIUM LAKE (CI 15850), FD&C BLUE NO. 1 ALUMINUM LAKE (CI 42090), FD&C YELLOW NO. 5 ALUMINUM LAKE (CI 19140), D&C YELLOW NO. 10 ALUMINUM LAKE (CI 47005), D&C ORANGE NO. 5 (CI 45370), D&C YELLOW NO. 11 (CI 47000), D&C RED NO. 22 (CI 45380), D&C RED NO. 28 (CI 45410), ULTRAMARINES (CI 77007), FERRIC AMMONIUM FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510), ALUMINUM POWDER (CI 77000)].

Image credit: Sally Hansen

If you’d like to try being a “stripper” you can buy Nail Effects with the Amazon link below. Your purchase will help support the Beauty Brains and for that we thank you kindly.

Vivawoman gives 5 out of 5 stars to Scotch Nails water-based nail colors. Let’s look at the label to see what is, and in this case what is NOT, in this formula.

Ingredients

Water
It make sense that water is the first ingredient since this product is not based on typical nail polish solvents like ethyl acetate or butyl acetate.

Acrylic polymer emulsion

This is the actual polish ingredient in the formula. Acrylic polymers are commonly used in nail polishes but they usually have to be dissolved in solvents like those listed above.  In the case of this product, the polymers are in “emulsion” form which means they’re made to be mixed with water.  The term “Acrylic polymer emulsion” is a bit misleading because it is descriptive of a class of chemicals but it does not tell you specifically which chemicals are used.

Butoxy diglycol
A co-solvent and viscosity decreasing agent that helps the polish dry smoothly and evenly. 

Non-toxic colorants
This is another mislabeled ingredient.  Colorants have specific names that must be used in labeling. The term “non-toxic colorants” makes it impossible to tell if this product uses colorants that are different than typical nail polishes. 

Image credit: Scotch Nails

Have you tried water based nail polishes? I didn’t think so! WHY NOT? What are you afraid of??? Leave a comment and share your experiences with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Georgia asks…I’ve seen three types of treatments for nails  advertised: formaldehyde; protein; and, calcium floride. Is one of these better than the others? Which would be best for my nails, which are thin, weak, and break at the sides?

The Left Brain responds:

There are two basic kinds of strengtheners: Hardeners and Hydrators. By understanding the advantages and disadvantages of each type you’ll be able to pick the one that’s right for you.

How Hardeners work

Cross-linking hardeners: This kind of hardener works on the inside of the nail with ingredients that react with the protein in your nails. When your nails are weak, the protein is like a ladder with broken rungs – the ladder feels loose and wobbly. But you can make the ladder sturdier by adding extra rungs to connect the two sides. That’s what cross linkers do to your nails: They create chemical bonds that tie the protein chains together to make the nails harder.

Reinforcing hardeners: This kind of hardener works on the outside of the nail with ingredients that coat the nail. This kind of hardener work like a a splint on a broken bone: it adds a layer on top of your nails that reinforces their natural structure.

Issues with Hardeners

The issue with cross linkers is that the nail can become so hard that it becomes brittle and unable to bend. If this happens the nail will break more easily.

The issue with reinforcers is that they wear off and need to be reapplied often to continue to be effective.

Examples of Hardeners

• Sally Hansen Nail Nutrition Green Tea + Bamboo
• OPI Maintenance Nail Envy Nail Strengthener
• Nutra Nail Strengthener with Green Tea

How Hydrators work

Hydrators work with ingredients that moisturize the nail to keep it flexible so it bends rather than breaks. These products are oily and waxy materials mixed with water.

Issues with Hydrators

Hydrators need to be used on an ongoing basis for maximum effect. As with any moisturizing product they need to be reapplied because they wear off over time and they wash away.

Examples of Hydrators

• Barielle Nail Strengthener Cream
• Hard As Hoof Nail Strengthening Cream
• Ecrinal Nail Cream

Hardener or Hydrator: Which should you use?

Use a Hardener if you want to a quick fix that is a more permanent solution. Just be aware that your nails may become more brittle over time. Use a Hydrator if you want your nails to have a more flexible strength and you don’t mind having to apply the product several times before you see much of a difference.

How to pick the best product for you

Now that you know how strengtheners work, you can look for the best treatment for nails. Unfortunately, most products do not tell you which type they belong to. We’ll teach you how to tell which type of strengthener any product is is by answering these three simple questions.

Question 1: Is it a Hardener or a Hydrator?

Look at the product: If it’s clear it’s a hardener. If it’s creamy like a lotion then it’s a hydrator.

Shake the product: If it’s thin and shakeable like a nail polish: then it’s a hardener. If it’s thick like an oil or a cream then it’s a hydrator.

Look at the package: If it’s a brush-on type it’s a hardener. If it’s in a tube or a jar, it’s a hydrator.

Question 2: If it’s a Hardener, is it the kind that makes your nails brittle?

If you see any of the following ingredients on the back of the bottle it works by cross-linking nail protein which can make nails more brittle:

• Formaldehyde
• Calcium

Question 3: Is it the kind that leaves a reinforcing layer?

If you see any of the following ingredients (but none of the ones listed above) then it’s a reinforcer.

• Nylon
• Sulfhydryl protein

If the ingredients look like a typical nail polish ingredient list, then it’s most likely a reinforcer type as well.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Now that you know the science of nail strengtheners you can experiment with different product types until you find the ones that are best for you.

If you’re shopping for a treatment for nails, please consider buying a product using the link below. Any purchase you make on Amazon will help support the Beauty Brains blog. Thank you! 

The latest trend in nail polish products are “crackle glazes” that give your nails an artsy shattered look. Both OPI and China Glaze are featuring these new glazes in their Spring collections. Today we talk about how these new polishes create this cool new look.

How does ChinaGlaze crackle polish work?

Crackling is a 3 step process. In the first step you apply a traditional base coat and let it dry completely. The second step is where the magic occurs: you apply the crackle layer over the base coat.  In as little as 3 to 5 minutes the fissures form. Use a thin layer for a finely fractured pattern and a thick layer for a more chunky look.  In the third step you apply a gloss coat that smooths the surface and adds shine.

What’s the magic in crackle glaze?

They’ve added a solvent (ethanol) to the polish that makes the film dry quickly and unevenly. This effect is the exact opposite of how nail polishes should normally behave – you want, slow even drying to ensure the smoothest finish. But by adding this alcohol to the formula they’ve created an imperfect film that shrinks as it dries, resulting in the cracks and crevices that show off the base coat. What should have been a formulation failure is now a new fabulous fashion trend.  How clever! The chemist who thought of this should get a big raise or a Nobel prize or something!

“Regular” China Glaze Ingredient List (minus colors)

Ethyl Acetate, Butyl Acetate, Nitrocellulose, Propyl Acetate, Tosylamide Formaldehyde Resin, Isopropyl Alcohol, Trimethyl Pentanyl Diisobutyrate, Triphenyl Phosphate, Ethyl Tosylamide, Camphor, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Diacetone Alcohol, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Benzophenone-1, Citric Acid, Kaolin, Dimethicone

ChinaGlaze Crackle Ingredient List

ETHYL ACETATE , SD ALCOHOL – 40B, ADIPIC ACID/ NEOPENTYL GLYCOL/TRIMELLITIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER, SILICA, BUTYL ACETATE, NITROCELLULOSE, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE, STEARALKONIUM BENTONITE SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE, TRIMETHYL PENTANYL DIISOBUTYRATE, ETHYL TOSYLAMIDE, KAOLIN

Click here to buy China Glaze Crackle Nail Polish

OR

Click here to learn more about products that really work in our FREE guide to beauty products.

Some lobes of the Beauty Brains (me included) have become obsessed with tracking all the iPhone beauty apps that are springing up all over the place. They’re certainly an interesting combination of science and beauty so they seem like an appropriate topic for the BB’s to discuss. Last time I blogged about a iPhone App that helps you track dangerous chemicals. This time the application is much more benign: it’s OPI’s new Nail Studio app.

iOPI

You can now browse and search over 200 OPI Nail Lacquer shades right from your iPhone or iPod Touch. You can even virtually try on colors by customizing the screen to match your skin tone. The feature is supposed to more closely represent how any given nail color will look on you. This ability to customize the app to your tastes is certainly an appealing feature, but this kind of “try before you buy” approach is limited by the companies ability to accurately  capture YOUR individual skin tone.

What do you think? Would you trust in electronic gadgets to help you pick a makeup color you’ve never actually worn before? Or, are color cosmetics so personal that you have to try them on in the store on your own skin before you can tell whether or not they will work for you? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.