The Beauty Brains

Andrea’s stumped by sunscreen: I was shopping today and realized just how many sunscreen options are available today. Neutrogena has a whole line of face sunscreens with SPF ranging from 45-80! How do I know how much SPF I really need?

Fore Brain’s fast answer:

The quick answer is that SPF (aka Sun Protection Factor) is generally a multiplier of your skin’s ability to resist burning. So if normally your skin burns after 12 minutes of sun exposure, applying sunscreen with an SPF 10 will increase the exposure time to 120 mins before you will get burned. This should help you pick out a proper SPF for your skin. Unfortunately sunscreen quality isn’t all in the SPF, so read on for other factors you should look for in a good sunscreen.

UVA UVB UVWhat?

Sunlight in outer space is composed of radioactive rays, which get filtered out by the atmosphere layers of the Earth. Of all the dangerous rays that the sun emits, the only ones that reach our skin are the UV rays. These rays fall into many categories but the ones we care about when discussing skin damage are UVA and UVB.

When they reach our skin, UVB rays stimulate Vitamin D production, appearance of moles, and can lead to sunburn with overexposure. There are more UVB rays in sunlight in the summertime when the sun is closer to the earth. UVA rays, are not as well known as UVB, and are responsible for tanning of the skin, as well as negative effects of sun exposure like as skin ageing and melanoma (a dangerous type of skin cancer). Unlike UVB, UVA rays are generally present at consistent levels throughout the year.

How do we protect ourselves from UVA and UVB?

This is where sunscreen comes in. Developed in the mid 1900s the aim of sunscreen is to limit sun overexposure and therefore minimize the negative effects and risks associated with sunbathing. The SPF rating that comes on sunscreen bottles is determined by an FDA required in vivo test which involves exposing volunteers’ skin to the sun until it sunburns and then evaluating the protection factor that the sunscreen gave that skin. The general rule is that the SPF is the multiplier of your skin’s normal resistance to sunburn, so if normally your skin would be sunburned after 12 minutes of direct sun exposure, with proper application of and SPF10 sunscreen, it will only get sunburned after 120 minutes.

A note about SPF ratings though. Some studies have shown that sunscreen’s protection factor doesn’t rise as evenly above SPF30 as it does in the ratings below. So for a long time sunscreens in the US were only allowed to be labelled 30+ because the numbers above 30 don’t represent sunscreen’s effectiveness the same way that SPFs 30 and below do. Recently this number has been raised to 50; however, you do need to keep in mind that still SPF50 isn’t twice as good as SPF25 as the number might have you believe.

But what about UVA?

Unfortunately, since the SPF test is mainly for the sunburn prevention properties of sunscreen, and those arise only from UVB, the official FDA test doesn’t shed any light onto how much UVA protection a sunscreen provides. Currently there are several skin pigmentation change tests available to test UVA activity and protection (since tanning is a result of the UVA rays stimulating melanin production and release), but they are not a requirement for sunscreen labelling in the United States. This is quite unfortunate, since UVA rays cause more long-term damage to skin like ageing and melanoma which is quite dangerous.

If you do want UVA protection in your sunscreen, look for products labelled as UVA/UVB broad spectrum, and don’t forget to check the ingredients; zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, and ecamsule (aka Mexoryl) are all effective at blocking UVA and have been approved by the FDA.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

So what is the recommendation here? In my research of sunscreen ingredients, I was very disappointed to come across many theories of some sunscreen compounds being carcinogenic, photomutagens, and reactive oxygen species, meaning that upon deep penetration into the skin they can cause some serious harm to us. This, combined with the fact that many sunscreens are poor UVA blockers, means that sunscreen doesn’t give us the ultimate sun protection which we have all come to rely on so heavily. So my recommendation is this: Try to find a facial moisturizer with UVA blocking compounds I listed above to use year-round to avoid signs of skin ageing, pick a skintype-appropriate sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB protection for the summer, and remember: the best way to minimize skin damage associated with sun exposure is to avoid it all together so wear clothing to shield your skin since the best sun block is a physical one.

Fun Fact: UV rays can be used to kill bacteria and are sometimes used to disinfect drinking water.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunscreen

http://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=46376

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/special/sunscreens/summary.php

Hansona, K.M., Grattonb, E., Bardeena, C.J., (2006) Sunscreen enhancement of UV-induced reactive oxygen species in the skin. Free radical biology and medicine, 41, (1205-1212).

Ava asks: I was hoping that you could settle something for us, being scientifically-inclined and all. I recently participated in a heated discussion about hydrogen peroxide being converted into bioavailable oxygen when in a cream, as claimed by Karin Herzog skincare. Not only does this seem impossible to me (and in fact very harmful in the long run to the skin barrier), but I tracked down all the research that supposedly upholds these claims and it is completely, utterly bogus.

Here’s my question: Is there a way to deliver oxygen to the skin in the form of a cream? Is it beneficial? Could hydrogen peroxide break down in order to deliver oxygen to the cells of the skin, as Karin Herzog claims?

The Left Brain responds:
I suggest you read the thread that Ava provided (see reference below) because it contains an excellent explanation from Paula Begoun, the Cosmetic Cop, on why oxygen is a bogus ingredient in cosmetics. Meanwhile, here’s my take on the subject:

A breath of fresh air

It’s true that oxygen is essential for healthy skin. But that’s only because you’d be DEAD without oxygen. Let me explain how that works: When you inhale oxygen it binds to hemoglobin in your red cells and is transported to various tissues throughout your body. From there it’s taken up into the cells, specifically into the mitochondria. These are tiny compartments that are equipped with special enzymes that bind to the oxygen to create energy for the cells. So oxygen that you breathe, that’s properly bound in your cells is important.

On the other hand, free oxygen is BAD for your skin because it can create free radicals that damage your cells. So despite the fact that Karin Herzog tells you her eye cream contains “0.5% oxygen that moisturizes, illuminates, tones, hydrates and firms the gentle eye area” your skin does NOT want free oxygen.

I can think of one case where there is a potential benefit to applying oxygen you skin. That’s using hydrogen peroxide as an antiseptic. The peroxide breaks and release oxygen that can have a mild germicidal effect. But that oxygen doesn’t penetrate into your skin!

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Don’t hold your breath waiting for oxygen skin care products to really work.

Reference:
Paula’s references on oxygen and skin can be found in this thread.

Skeptical Susan says: In your story about cosmetics that really work, you mentioned all those products that don’t really do what they say. That made me wonder why don’t any of these companies ever get in trouble if they’re lying? I thought we had laws against false advertising.

The Right Brain retorts:
You’re correct, there are laws against false advertising. They vary from county to country but generally speaking for those laws to take effect someone has to initiate a challenge against the suspicious advertiser. That challenge can come from a consumer such as yourself, another company, or from an interested party such as a consumer group or governmental body.

Two ways to challenge

Regardless of who initiates the challenge, in the US there are two basic ways by which advertisements are “policed.” The first way involves taking the company directly to court because you believe you can show their advertisement is false and misleading. If the courts rule in the plaintiff’s favor, the offending company can be forced to stop specific advertising and they may have to pull recall product from distribution. In addition, the court can levy fines against the company if warranted. This is not usually the course that is followed because of the time and money involved in engaging the legal system.

Most of the time, cases are reviewed by an arbitrating body, specifically the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Better Business Bureau. The NAD has no specific legal authority and can not punish companies for running bad ads, but their opinion carries a lot of weight. So if the NAD rules against a company, in most cases, the advertiser follows their advice (or they may face more severe action in court.) While the general public may not realize it, companies are challenged on their claims ALL the time. In fact here’s a recent example from the NAD case files issued April 2008:

Is Actifade illegal?

This case involves a product called Actifade, a sunspot/age spot fade cream. We’ve blogged before about similar products like Meladerm and other skin lighteners. These are Over The Counter (OTC) drugs because they contain active ingredients that reduce skin pigmentation. The NAD took issue with the advertiser’s claims because product performance claims should follow the language in the OTC drug monograph. Here’s how the NAD ruled on specific Actifade claims:

• Claims regarding “stopping sun spots, age spots and liver spots” implied that the product permanently eliminated skin discolorations and are not supported by any data from the advertiser. Claims about looking “5, 10, even 20 years younger” are also not supported. Both claims should be discontinued

• The claims “Younger looking skin has never been easier” and “Just rub it on and it works,” must be modified to avoid implying that the products immediately remove age spots

• The claim “Actifade combines a cosmetic with powerful medication that will fade sun spots, age spots and dark discoloration with no greasy mess” is acceptable and can be used.

The Beauty Brains Bottom Line

As a result of this NAD challenge, Actifade has agreed to change their advertising. If they had not agreed, they could have been taken to court to face more serious action. So there you have it - that’s how the system protects us from false advertising.

What do YOU think? Does the legal system do a good job of protecting the public from fraudulent cosmetic claims? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Rebecca’s request: I’ve been introduced to Prevage by my beauty consultant as being a great product to prevent environmental damage to skin and even reversing some of the already existing. This product is a little pricey, so I’d like to know how true are the claims on their web page. Please advise.

The Right Brain proselytizes about Prevage:
Prevage is originally from a company called Allergan who markets the full-strength 1% active version (formally known as Prevage-MD). Elizabeth Arden’s version contains 0.5% (or half as much active ingredient). Arden has launched a line of idebenone-based products including an anti-aging face treatment for 1.7 fl. oz. for $150 as well as a similarly priced night cream and an eye treatment.

Prevage’s claim to fame is that its active ingredient is an antioxidant known as idebenone. Long time readers may remember that we blogged about this “miracle ingredient” before. But in case you missed our first post, here’s a quick recap.

What is Idebenone

Idebenone came out of research in the ’70 and ‘80s that showed a material known as Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) could improve heart failure, reduce free radical damage and slow down certain neurological conditions. CoQ10 is a vitamin-like material that not only helps control cellular energy production but is also a powerful antioxidant. The researchers modified the CoQ10 molecule to enhance its properties and one of modifications became idebenone. Today, several companies , including Elizabeth Arden and Priori Skin Care market idebenone-based products as next generation antioxidants.

Does Prevage work?

According to Arden’s website, they claim that idebenone is “ currently the most effective antioxidant for addressing the visible signs of aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, roughness and discoloration.” Interestingly, they qualify that claim with an “*” the reveals the comparison is to alpha lipoic acid, kinetin, vitamin C, vitamin E, and coenzyme Q10. There’s not mention of other powerful antioxidants like flavinoids and polyphenols found in natural materials like tea leaves and grape seeds. So it’s really hard to tell how idebenone stacks up against these competing technologies.

Furthermore, Arden boasts their clinical tests “show a significant decrease in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and an improvement in the look of firmness, tone, texture, and radiance.” But frankly, those are not particularly impressive claims – many products that are much cheaper are said to perform similarly.

According to one of our favorite sources, Smartskincare.com, there have not been “head to head” studies to determine if idebenone is better than CoQ10 for fighting wrinkles. They also say that if you are using proven anti-wrinkle agents (like retinoids) with good results, you may want to hold off on idebenone until more studies are conducted. They sum it up nicely by saying: “trying idebenone is a question of willingness to spend time and money on a treatment that could work in theory but is not yet backed by hard evidence.”

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Prevage appears to be another high-priced skin care line that promises youth-in-a-bottle without much proof.

Reference: Smart Skin Care

Michael says: I liked very much your review of Ren products and thought to myself, “What would they say about my products?” Then answered myself, “Why not ask?” So, I am putting myself and my products up on the block. Would you be willing to tell me and your readers what you think of our ingredients, copy, etc?

The Right Brain responds:
Michael thanks so much for contacting us about your line of Emily Skin Soother products. Since you were brave enough to offer your products up for our review, the least we can do is give you our honest feedback. Below you’ll find a few statements taken from your website followed by our comments. So take a deep breath, here we go!

The Pros and Cons of Emily Skin Soothers

Emily: Our original creation, Baby and Adult Skin Soother was created because of our daughter’s baby eczema. It was born of a father’s love and concern.

Beauty Brains: Wow! You have to find that statement touching unless you’re a cold hearted bee-yatch like a certain lobe of the Beauty Brains. (Just kidding, LB!) Seriously though, we like they way Michael summarized his philosophy in an email to us:

“I am not trying to scare consumers, I am trying to reach out to people who have a similar mind set and concern. I do not think such statements will make someone who does not care suddenly worry about these ingredients. This type of statement is more a pledge to those people who are concerned that we will not use such ’suspected’ ingredients because we can easily make a quality product without them.”

This is a much better rationale than companies who say “don’t use this because it causes cancer.”

Emily: It was created to soothe and beautify any type of dry and itchy skin condition.

Beauty Brains: While olive oil and beeswax will soothe dry skin, “soothing itching” is technically a drug claim and shouldn’t be made by a cosmetic product.

Emily: It is made of the bare, essential ingredients of the highest quality. We use olive oil, beeswax, and three herbs.”

Beauty Brains: While we don’t question the quality of your ingredients, let’s not to confuse naturalness with efficacy. There’s a reason that skin moisturizers contain silicones and mineral derived oil – these ingredients are better moisture barriers. You may not like these “unnatural ingredients” but they DO perform!

Emily: Skin Soothers products are natural and effective…powered by Chinese Herbs.

Beauty Brains: While we accept that olive oil and beeswax are good for skin because they provide emolliency and moisture retention, we’d like to know how the herbal blend “powers” the product. Do the herbs have proven benefits or are they just known for their folkloric uses?

Emily: We do not add anything unnecessary, so our products do not have colorants, added fragrance, preservative or any unpronounceable nasties.

Beauty Brains: Ok, Michael, be careful with this one. First of all, you’re implying your herbs are “necessary” without any proof of efficacy (see above). Second, you’re promoting fear of chemicals with your remark about “unpronounceable nasties.” Not everything with a scientific name is bad for you. For example, the official names for the herbs in your product are “Potentillae Chinensis” and “Mentha Haplocalyx.” Those names don’t exactly roll off your tongue, but that doesn’t mean they’re harmful!

Emily: Our herbs …are from an American company that batch tests all of its herbs for contaminants, heavy-metals, and pesticides and does not use sulfur preservatives.

Beauty Brains: We’re not sure how much of a danger this represents, but we give them credit for at least trying to support their claims about having pure products. Not all companies are this thorough.

Emily: A 2 oz jar costs $14.00.

Beauty Brains: We’re used to expensive products, but $14 bucks for 2 ounces of olive oil and beeswax seems a bit high!

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Compared to other companies we’ve seen, Emily Skin Soothers has a refreshingly realistic approach to marketing an “all natural” product. While we nit-picked a few technical points above, overall we respect the honest way they offer as pure a product as possible without making exaggerated claims. And most importantly, they DON’T try to scare you into buying something you don’t need.

I was recently reading Dina’s post about Clarisonic on the excellent beauty blog Are You a Beauty? We’ve been asked about the product a few times on the Beauty Brains and have even gotten a sample from the company to review. All of the Brains tried it but we never posted a review for a few reasons.

Clarisonic evaluation

First, it cleans your face well. Your skin almost tingles when you’re done and that’s fun. However, it is a bit of pain to use. It’s just much easier to use an exfoliating product like St. Ives Apricot scrub and a daily facial wash. You pretty much get the same effect.

Second, it doesn’t really look good in my bathroom. You have to leave it on the charger when you’re not using it which means it’s on the counter top clashing with the fabulous decor.

Third, it’s not worth the money. $195 for this? Then another $25 for replacement brushes. I don’t know. If it gave results much better than regular products maybe, but it doesn’t. That money would be better spent on a cute pair of shoes.

Of course if you are curious feel free to click on this Clarisonic Brush for more information. Maybe you go for gadgets more so than most of the Beauty Brains. (Not counting Sarah of course).

Clarisonic recall

But this isn’t the reason for writing this post. The real reason is that Dina’s post reminded me of a letter the Beauty Brains recently received from the company that makes Clarisonic. According to them, they are recalling any unit that was made prior to July 2007 is being recalled. It turns out there is some kind of electronic problem in the handle that makes it get really hot. So hot that it might actually catch fire. If you purchased one before July 2007, be sure to contact the company to get a replacement.

Sandy says:
I was reading this article at National Geographic and wondered what kind of sunscreen you recommend that won’t kill the coral reefs.  Can you help?  And is this really a problem?

Right Brain retorts:

Who doesn’t love the colorful and diverse ecosystem found at coral reefs? Even a logician like Left Brain can appreciate the beauty of these sites. Unfortunately, coral reefs are dying around the world. There are a variety of reasons like coastal development, overfishing, pollution and global climate change which individuals have little ability to change.  However, the article you cite says some environmental scientists think the sunscreen you use may also be killing these systems.

Death by sunscreen

According to a recent paper published in the journal Environmental Health Perspectives, certain sunscreen ingredients have been shown to cause destruction of the coral reefs. In their experiments, they showed that chemicals like parabens, ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3 and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor induce a viral infection of algae living in the corals which leads to bleaching. The authors go on to say that 4000 - 6000 tons of sunscreen is washed off beach goers annually and that this may be part of the problem. They recommend avoiding sunscreens that contain ingredients harmful to coral.

Not all scientists are convinced

While most of the media will report this as definitive news, some scientists question the conclusions made by this limited study. Specifically, they have four primary criticisms.

1. Concentration issues. The amount of chemicals shown to have an effect is over 10x that which is likely to occur in seawater around reefs.
2. No detection. They didn’t actually test the water near coral reefs for sunscreen chemicals.
3. No correlations. Researchers haven’t shown a correlation between popular sunbathing/snorkeling reefs and bleaching levels. If it were a problem caused by people’s sunscreens, places with more people would have more bleaching than those with less. They don’t.
4. Forgot pollution. They also forgot that the same chemicals are found in other personal care products that get washed down the drain and eventually end up in the ocean. Sunscreen use may be a much smaller contributor.

So, your sunscreen use may not be as much of a problem as the original paper’s authors suggest. Don’t you just love science?

Beauty Brains bottom line:

Right now there is not enough information to tell whether sunscreens are really killing coral reefs. The effect is probably overblown in this paper. However, there is proof that some ingredients can theoretically harm them, so if you want to remove this as a concern for you, avoid sunscreens that contain the following (if you’re going anywhere near a coral reef).

Butylparaben
Methylparaben
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
4-methylbenzylidene camphor

Instead, consider using products that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

Here’s good news for all you Beauty Brains readers who are interested in natural ingredients that really work: a combination of Japanese honeysuckle, peppermint, peony tree root bark, atractylodes herb, and cork-tree bark may be an effective eczema treatment.

5 herbs to eczema-free

According to The Dermatology Times researchers have found that a traditional Chinese herbal medicine made from these five herbs can ease the symptoms this itchy, scaley skin condition.

In a controlled study, 85 patients were given either the herbal blend or a placebo. Those who took the herbs reported improved quality of life and a reduced need for steroids, as compared to the placebo group. Additional testing revealed that patients who took the medicinal herbal blend had lower blood levels of certain proteins that are linked to the inflammatory effects of eczema.

Tasty tea?

Does this mean you can just sip some tea made with these herbs and cure your eczema? Not necessarily, because while many drugs come from herbs they need to be purified and quantified to provide a consistent dose. Natural sources of herbs don’t necessarily offer that same consistency and purity.

– Mid Brain

Slique says: Is it true that Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) in facial cleansers is bad for your skin? I find that whenever I use a cleanser with SLS my skin will feel a lil’ bit dry.

The Right Brain responds:
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and its cousin Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES) are favorite topics here on the Beauty Brains. We’ve blogged before about how they are good cleaners, but they can dry your skin if you’re not careful.

Does that make sulfate based products bad? Not necessarily, because it depends on what else is in the formula. A well formulated product that uses sulfates in combination with milder surfactants or with conditioning agents that prevent the skin from becoming too stripped, are perfectly fine for most people.

So that made us curious – how many face washes DO use sulfates? A quick trip to Drugstore.com shows that none of the top ten brands used SLS, but we did notice that 7 of these 10 used other sulfates to some degree.

So if you’re looking for sulfate free and you want to pick a good face wash, here’s the list of ten face washes ranked from least expensive to most expensive (based on cost per ounce) with all the cleansing agents spelled out .

Skin Milk Face Wash - contains little sulfates

Cost: $0.66/oz

Surfactants: Stearic Acid based soap, Glycereth 26, Cocamide DEA, Sodium Laureth 13 Carboxylate, PEG 100 Stearate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Comments: Stearic acid soaps give a whipped creamy kind of foam.

Olay Foaming Face Wash for Sensitive Skin - contains little sulfates

Cost: $0.75/0z

Surfactants: Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate, PEG 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamide MEA

Comments: A surprisingly low cost formula considering the range of mild surfactants.

Seabreeze Naturals Foaming Face Wash - contains a lot of sulfates

Cost: $0.75/oz
Surfactants: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, PEG 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate

Comments:

Basis Clean Face Wash - contains a lot of sulfates

Cost: $0.92/oz
Surfactants: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Lauryl Glucoside, PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, PEG 8, Glyceryl Laurate, PEG 200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate,

Comments: The combination of betaine and laureth sulfate is one of the most popular mixtures for shampoos.

Neutrogena Deep Clean Facial Cleanser - contains sulfonates, not sulfates

Cost: $1.08/oz

Surfactants: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium C12-15 Pareth-15 Sulfonate

Comments: This formula will certainly deep clean since it uses sulfonates, a class of surfactants as stripping, if not more stipping, than any of the sulfates.

Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash - contains moderate sulfates

Cost: $1.08/oz

Surfactants: PEG 80 Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine,

Comments: This is essentially a baby shampoo formula.

Desert Essence Thoroughly Clean Face Wash - contains no sulfates

Cost: $1.15/oz

Surfactants: Castile Soap

Comments: No sulfates to be found but pure soap can also be drying to the skin.

Nature’s Gate Deep Cleansing Foaming Face Wash - contains a lot of sulfates

Cost: $1.20/oz

Surfactants: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MIPA,

Comments:

Biore Pore Minimizing Foaming Face Wash - contains moderate sulfates

Cost: $1.66/oz

Surfactants: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Isethionate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Comments: Isethionates are very rich foaming and mild to the skin.

Kiss My Face Organics Jump Start Exfolliating Face Wash - contains no sulfates

Cost: $3.25/oz

Surfactants: Decyl Glucoside

Comments: A mild, corn based cleanser but certainly not worth almost 3 times more than Biore, the next most expensive product.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

If you’re looking for a sulfate free face wash, the relatively low levels of SLES in and Skin Milk and Olay look like they’re the best value.

What’s YOUR favorite way to clean your kisser? Leave a comment and share the products you like with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Sherry’s peroxide predicament: I have extremely oily skin and have experimented over the years with several different face washes in an attempt to find one that cleanses deeply without over-drying. I have discovered that botanical based gel washes followed by a moisturizer rich in dimethicone work best in my case. I have also discovered that mixing in a little hydrogen peroxide with my face wash works even better. It completely removes any traces of excess oil and makeup without drying me out completely, and it’s completely eliminated my occasional breakouts. I’ve been using this cocktail with great results for a few years now with no problem. Is this safe for my skin?

Fore Brain’s free radical reply:
Sherry, it seems that most of the ingredients in your skin regimen are quite safe with possible exception of hydrogen peroxide. Although not totally conclusive, scientific evidence points to the fact that long term use of hydrogen peroxide on your face may result in skin damage. The quick answer is that if you are concerned about wrinkles and skin damage, hydrogen peroxide may not be for you.

A little about hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen Peroxide (aka H2O2) is the liquid you get in a brown opaque bottle at the pharmacy, and for years has been used for all sorts of bleaching as well as an antiseptic to clean wounds. However, as of a few years ago, this practice has been discontinued since hydrogen peroxide was deemed too harsh for wound treatment. This is probably indication that it can’t be that good for your face either. The primary concern with hydrogen peroxide is its oxidative effect when it contacts other materials. The oxidation is what kills the bacteria; however, as per recent discoveries in free radicals and skin damage, it may also result in skin cell destruction and premature skin ageing. The free radical theories can get pretty complicated but I’ll try to explain it in simple terms.

Free radicals are just lonely

A molecule like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is basically a water (H2O) combined with an oxygen (O) and it takes energy to hold that extra oxygen molecule onto the whole structure for several chemistry-related reasons that are too advanced for the scope of this article. The bottom line is, when the hydrogen peroxide molecule touches other materials, it gets a chance to fall apart to a more relaxed state of H2O (water) and the O (oxygen) that it nearly always takes. The problem however, is that oxygen molecules like to travel in pairs, and the newly released oxygen molecule will look for another oxygen to attach itself to. While the oxygen molecule is alone and looking for its pair, it is quite unbalanced, and can result in damage to the cells, DNA, as well as other cell components. The lone oxygen molecule looking for its partner is an example of a free radical.

Unfortunately, according to this theory, when we apply hydrogen peroxide to our skin, on a very tiny molecular level, it breaks down into water and the lone oxygen molecule that causes damage to the skin cells resulting in premature aging. (This kind of damage also happens normally with time from effects of the sun or the environment.)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

So is an acne spot treatment of hydrogen peroxide once in a while going to ruin your skin? Probably not. However, long-term use over large areas of skin (ie. your whole face), is something I wouldn’t recommend if you want your skin to stay healthy for a long time. If you do want some tips on how to manage your oily skin without the use hydrogen peroxide, check out this site.

Fun Fact: Highly concentrated hydrogen peroxide is often used in rocket fuel because of its oxygenating abilities!

References:

Meneghini, R., (1991) Iron homeostasis, oxidative stress, and DNA damage. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 23, 783-792.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxidative_stress
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactive_oxygen_species