Sarah Bellum Says:

Damn, I hate science sometimes.

Contrary to the old wives’ tales that say chocolate is bad for skin, I’ve chosen to believe the prevailing scientific evidence that says diet does NOT contribute to acne. (See our candy post from last Valentines Day). But now a new study says that those old wives may know best after all.

Australian acne study

NPR reports on an Australian research study that evaluated 54 acne patients, ranging in age from 15 to 25. Half of the patients were given a low blood sugar diet while the other half were allowed to feast on Doritos and M&Ms (and other starchy, sugary foods). After 12 weeks, dermatologists evaluated the skin of all the panelists with out knowing which diet they were on (so it was a well blinded study.) Guess what? The patients on the sugary diet had significantly worse skin.

Final proof?

This certainly contradicts what previous studies have shown. So is this proof beyond a shadow of doubt that sugar causes acne? Not quite, the report acknowledged that while this study strongly suggests a causal connection between sugar intake and acne there are other factors to consider as well. For example, the patients overall caloric intake and degree of weight loss were not the same. So there may have been other factors at play here beyond sheer sugar consumption. Still, it makes me think twice before gorging myself on my post-holiday stash of Lake Champlain gourmet chocolates.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Looks like more research is needed. I hope they hurry up and settle this before Valentines Day!

What do YOU think? Does your skin break out when you indulge your inner chocolate demons? Leave a comment and share your sweetness with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Meredith muses: Can you give me the scientist’s perspective on Neem? It’s a plant that has been called the “corner pharmacy” in India for ages. I’ve found a lot of information about it from Ayurvedic and naturopathic stores, and I’m not seeing a ton of hard science behind the claims. I’m looking specifically for info regarding its healing properties for acne and eczema.

The Left Brain’s not sure about Neem:
Like you, I’m always VERY skeptical of naturopathic remedies unless there is clinical data to back up their claims. Sometimes, these remedies do contain active, effective ingredients. Other times they do not. Interestingly, the effectiveness of Neem, or Azadirachta indica, as it is technically known, is pretty well documented.

Neem, the wonder drug

A search of Pubmed reveals over 400 different studies on Neem oil most of which deal with its antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory effects. The data indicates that Neem does live up to its reputation as a wonder drug, at least in many respects.

There are studies showing that it gets rid of camel ticks, it’s a spermicide, stops hamsters from getting cheek cancer, it’s good for sheeps’ digestive systems, kills head lice, helps against some types of diabetes, repels mosquitoes, and stops mange. It’s also effective against plaque and cavities, can interrupt the breeding cycle of the diamondback moth, and guards against some forms of gastic cancer. To name a few.

Not for acne?

However, in all these studies (and I reviewed all 448 of them!) I couldn’t find a single reference to any testing on acne or eczema. Now, that doesn’t mean necessarily mean that Neem DOESN’T work. It is a plausible theory since it does have antibacterial properties. But there maybe other effects to consider. For example, it could kill the bacteria that cause acne (P. acnes) but it could also contribute to acne by clogging pores. Without some kind of test data it’s all speculation and hearsay.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Unless someone out there can direct me to further studies showing Neem works on acne, this Beauty Brain remains skeptical. But if you want to buy some Neem oil and give it a try there’s probably little risk. But then again, why not use some acne medications that are proven to work?

What do YOU think? Do you trust the over the counter acne medications or do you prefer natural remedies? Leave a comment and tell us what you think about neem or any other natural cures you’ve tried.

If you thought your acne problems would be gone after your 20’s, think again. In an acne study of over 1000 people, 73% reported dealing with adult acne. And while there was no difference in frequency of acne in their teenage years, adult women experienced far more acne than men. The good news is that when you hit your 40’s, only a quarter of women get acne.

Are YOU still fighting the battle with acne? Do you think men get all the breaks? Leave a comment to see how you compare to the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

—Mid Brain

Bobby is bothered: I was wondering about IS Clinical Active Serum. I’m skeptical about whether active ingredients are really worth the $120 price tag — or whether, at the very least, they work. In terms of what this particular product promises to do (anti-acneic, skin lightening, and mild wrinkle prevention), it is covering all my bases, but I know better than to be drawn to promises (okay, at least sometimes). Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

The Right Brain responds:
IS Clinical is an “Innovative Skincare” company with a range of high-end facial products. Their Active Serum treatment “reduces fine lines and wrinkles, helps treat acne, and evens skin pigmentation.” The key ingredients include glycolic acid, lactic acid, arbutin, and kojic acid. Is it worth $120? The information presented on their website gives me several reasons to be suspicious:

1. Lack of differentiating technology

This product doesn’t seem to contain anything new or breakthrough. Alphahydroxy acids are well known ingredients for treating fine lines and wrinkles. And Salycylic Acid is approved as an approved anti-acne drug ingredient, so nothing new there. Finally, skin lightening can be achieved through products like Meladerm (which is effective but also expensive) or less expensive products like Olay’s Definity. Given that you can buy other products with similar functionality for significantly less money, I just don’t understand what’s so different about IS that makes it worth its $120 price tag. Strike 1.

2. Lack of clinical test data on the formula

The IS website has a “Clinical Opinions” section under the Science tab. While one might expect to see results of studies of IS products in this section, all the information is just generic data. For example, there’s a section about kojic acid and cancer but there’s no mention of any clinical tests that show kojic acid is an effective skin lightener. This is a red flag that could indicate they haven’t tested their product. Strike 2.

3. Lack of relevant information on ingredients

One might also expect to find useful information under the “Clinical Ingredient Studies” section. Alas, all we see here is regurgitation of some standard industry literature references. My favorite is the discussion of Carbomer 941 (a thickener). They list several scientific papers, including “Release Profile of Lidocaine HCl from Topical Liposomal Gel Formulation.” What this has to do with their own formulas, I have NO idea! Strike 3 - IS is out.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

Active Serum may be a perfectly fine product but it certainly doesn’t seem worth the price. Perhaps even more troubling is the fact that the company is trying to look more scientifically credible than it really is.

What do YOU think? Does it bother you when companies try to trick you this way? Or do you just ignore all the hype? Leave a comment so we can all learn from our fellow Beauty Brainiacs.

Emmy’s Inquiry: (after reading our post on Juice Beauty): I like what you’re trying to do with this site, but you seem to have it in for anything labeled organic. Heaven forbid you admit that anything natural and not chemically processed might have beneficial properties - honey for example is medically proven to be anti-bacterial and is included in the Juice Beauty moisturizer, yet you make no mention of that. And since one of the causes of acne is bacteria, couldn’t it be possible that the presence of honey in the formula IS a benefit not delivered by drugstore brands? But of course, that would mean admitting that the chemicals you never fail to hype aren’t the end-all be-all answer to all beauty problems.

The Right Brain replies:
We can understand how you might assume that because we’re scientists that we are “pro-chemical.” The truth is, we’re pro-scientific method. If we find reliable studies that prove natural ingredients work, we mention them. But most of the time, natural claims are exaggerations to try to trick you into buying products. Now, on to your question about honey.

Does honey kill bacteria?

We did find legitimate scientific research that backs up the theory that honey has antibacterial properties. For example, one study in the Journal of Antibacterial Chemotherapy showed that honey (in concentrations between 2.5% and 5%) is effective against staphylococci, a very harmful bacteria. We could not find any studies that tested honey’s effect on p acne, the bacteria that helps cause zits. However, given what we know about the antibacterial mechanism of honey, it is plausible it would work on this bacterium was well.

How does honey work?

Honey appears to work against bacteria in two ways, depending on the type of honey. In most types, the bees add an enzyme that generates low levels of hydrogen peroxide, which is the active ingredient that kills bacteria. In a special honey, known as Manuka honey, the bees feed on nectar of the flowers of the manuka bush (Leptospermum scoparium), which imparts additional anti-bacterial properties. Both types of honey can be effective but (and this is VERY important) their efficacy can vary greatly from batch to batch. Any given jar of honey may or may not have a high enough antibacterial activity to really work. To ensure efficacy, each lot of honey must be tested for activity before you know it will really work. (Learn more about Manuka honey.)

Should you try Juice?

So, back to the question about Juice Beauty: IF they are buying honey that is certified with the appropriate activity level and IF they’re using between 2 and 5% in their formula, and IF nothing else in the formula is deactivating the enzymes in the honey, then it is possible that their moisturizer really is effective against acne.

We’d love to hear from any of our loyal Beauty Brainiacs who want to try Juice’s moisturizer on their zits.

Learn to Get Acne Free in Three Days - Click Here!

Lorian’s looking for a green light: You guys are fantastic. Thank you for cutting through all the marketing bullsh$* and giving us the real deal. My question concerns the “bareVitamins Skin Rev-er Upper” by Bare Escentuals. Apparently, it’s some sort of serum you’re supposed to smear on your face before applying makeup, thus making the surface of the skin smoother for the powder. I’m a little nervous to try it, because I’ve got incredibly acne-prone skin and I don’t want to risk the breakouts. I’m hoping you can give me the green light.

The Right Brain runs a red light:
Skin Rev-er Upper is claims to “rejuvenate your complexion like a daily multi-vitamin supplement.” Reading the reviews of this Bare Escentuals product we see mixed results: some people love it and some hate it. As with all cosmetics, personal taste rules supreme. But is there anything about the science of this product that would be likely to encourage acne breakouts? Let’s take a look at the formula:

Ingredients: Water, PPG-14 Butyl Ether, Cetyl Dimethicone, Methyl Gluceth-20, Salicylic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Oat Kernel Extract, Saponaria Extract, Grape Fruit Extract, Honey Extract, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin E Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Peg-100 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Glycolic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Diazolidinyl Urea, Tetrasodium Edta, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

The good news is that the product contains salicylic acid, a betahydroxy acid that is proven to fight acne. The bad news is that it also contains 3 other ingredients that are known to be comedogenic (which means they can contribute to acne):
Glyceryl stearate
Cetearyl alcohol
Cetearth-20

So if you’re really worried about acne, we’d suggest looking for a similar product that doesn’t contain these potentially zit-promoting ingredients.

Danny’s Dilemma: Please, is there a liquid or powder foundation out there that won’t cause acne?

The Right Brain’s reassurance:

If your skin is prone to acne breakouts, you do need to be careful about what you put on your face. The good news is, there are many foundation products that don’t cause pimples. You just need to know what to look for.

Acne by any other name…

There are foundations that are tested to make sure they won’t cause acne. You need to look for products with “non-comedogenic” on the label. (Color Me Beautiful, for example.) That means they don’t promote the formation of comedones which are a fancy name for a specific type of acne: a blackhead.

Comedone is actually a combination of two Latin terms: “come” meaning dark mound and “done” meaning finished or done, as in “my dating life is DONE if I don’t get rid of freakishly huge zit!” But seriously, go read our previous post on what causes pimples if you want to learn what comedones really are.

Powder or Potion?

In general, powders are less likely to contain acne causing ingredients than liquid products because some oils can cause comedones. Having said that, there are plenty of oils that are safe for acne sensitive skin. For example, most people are surprised to find that mineral does NOT cause acne! Again, just be sure to look for products that claim to be noncomedogenic.

If you do happen to get a zit and if regular benzoyl peroxide or Sal acid products don’t work well for you, you might try Murad’s Acne Spot Treatment with sulfur, a rather unusual active ingredient.

Joolia’s just asking:
There’s a product called Dr. Ci:Labo Basic Black Blemish Control Gel that uses charcoal to treat acne. Does it really help?

The Right Brain simply says:
It’s tough to find much information on this product, but according Dr. Ci:Labo’s website: “Charcoal and gentle botanical extracts in Blemish Control Gel help to prevent the problem of oily skin by removing excess sebum.” The company doesn’t seem to be making any direct claims about acne, but by calling the product “Blemish Control” they’re certainly implying it’s good for pimples!

What causes acne?

As you know if you read our post on the causes of acne, there are three different factors that cause your face to populated with pimples. Excess skin oil (sebum) production is one of the causes, but if just getting rid of oil could cure acne, all you’d have to do is wash your face. You also need to beat back the bacteria and regulate the speed at which your skin cells are sloughing off.

Can charcoal really help?

But back to Dr. Ci:Labo. Does charcoal really regulate skin oil? Highly unlikely. The idea that tiny charcoal sponges could soak up oil off your face and make it magically disappear is a bit hard to swallow. Besides, the oil level of your skin is self-regulating. Drying up the surface just triggers the layers beneath to produce more oil. And finally, we searched the technical literature and couldn’t find ANY mention of charcoal having any beneficial skin properties. But if anyone in the Beauty Brains’ community has any seen any references to this, let us know and we’ll look into them.

The Beauty Brains Bottom Line

Even if charcoal does have oil absorbing properties, that alone will not stop acne. This product may be a perfectly fine facial lotion but unless it contains a proven anti-acne ingredient, like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, it won’t have any effect on zits.

Nickers needs to know: Does Windex, the window cleaner, work on pimples? Because I just saw “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” and they said to “Windex it.” Like put some on a cotton ball and dab it on. Is it true? The Right Brain responds:

We hate to break bad on scientific beauty advice from any major motion picture, especially a block buster romantic comedy such as this, but with all due respect: FORGET ABOUT IT!

Windex is a mixture of water, rubbing alcohol and some industrial solvents. Yes, it might help degrease your oily skin and it might even kill off a few acne causing bacteria, but it won’t work as well as pimple medications that you buy in the store. And it might even irritate your skin and make your pimples worse. Stick with Clearasil! (By the way, you’ll feel 13% smarter if you read our explanation of what causes acne.)

Or if you really want to try something different, check out the Zeno Zit Zapper. Yes, it’s expensive but it really works!

“It’s like having lots of gasoline…and a match.”

That’s how the lead researcher describes his team’s new break through in skin research.

Rosacea revealed

Dr. Richard L. Gallo, M.D. Ph.D. of the University of California’s San Diego School of Medicine and his team of researchers have found the cause of rosacea, a condition also referred to as adult acne. (You can learn more about the red-faced regret of rosacea here.) They discovered that unlike real acne, which is caused by bacteria, rosacea is caused by a combination of two abnormal factors.

A protein menage a trois

According to Science Daily, Dr. Gallo’s team found that when too much of two different inflammatory proteins are produced, they interact and boost the levels of a third protein. It’s this unusual protein triple play that produces the red-faced features that characterize rosacea.

Is there a cure?

Currently there is no good treatment for rosacea. Antibiotics can help but the underlying cause is not bacterial so they usefulness is limited. Dr. Gallo hopes that this research will lead to a brand new therapeutic treatment for this condition. Now if they can only find a cure for bacne!