Modistmoz asks…I’ve just begun looking into starting an anti aging regiment for my skin (I am 30 with very fair skin). I’m working hard to research products to find the best fit. I was wondering what the Beauty Brains has to say about the new Oil of Olay Professional Pro-X line. Is it any good?

The Right Brain replies:

Is Pro-X any good? According to one study, it’s as good as prescription anti-aging from a dermatologist. Maybe.

Doubtful data?

According to Cosmeticsdesign testing done by Procter Gamble, makers of Olay, shows that its Pro-X line performs as well as a tretinoin-based prescription treatment. (Tretinoin is also known as Retin-A.) Now, we can guess what you’re thinking: Yeah, but it’s P&G’s test that shows that it works! Can we trust them? The answer is yes, if the study was designed and executed properly. The real question is exactly what was the test designed to prove? Test data can be used to support many different conclusions depending on the study design.

X-rated action

In this case, P&G had expert graders look at pictures of the panelists after treatment with both product regimines and rate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. After 6 months the graders rated both products as performing similarly. But since the Pro-X treatment regimen is moisturizing while the tretinoin treatment tends to be irritating, the tretinoin dosage started low and was ramped up over time. One could argue that this methodology gave the Pro-X product a head start in the treatment, but P&G points out that this application process is consistent with how people actually use tretinoin in real life to help reduce irritation. So, their conclusion is that “prescription efficacy for improving fine lines can be achieved with a cosmetics regimen as well as being better tolerated by patients.”

The Beauty Brains bottom line

If you like the way tretinoin makes your skin look but you find it irritating, you might have better luck with the Olay Pro-X line. But don’t expect miracles.

What do YOU think? Have you had luck with any wrinkle fighting anti-aging skin treatments? Leave a comment and share your experiences with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Source: British Journal of Dermatology

2010, Issue 162, Pages 647 – 654
A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamde/peptide/retinyl propionate products regimen versus a prescription 0.02 percent tretinoin product regimen
J.J.J. Fu, G.G. Hillebrand, P. Raliegh, J. Li, M.J.Marmor, V. Bertucci, P.E. Grimes, S.H. Mandy, M.I. Perez, S.H. Weinkle, J.R. Kaczvinsky

Penguinbiter pleads…How does cigarette smoke cause wrinkles?

The Right Brain responds:

When Penguinbiter (BTW I love that name) asked this question in our Forum, Jami was quick to point out several links that answered the question very nicely. I won’t repeat them here but you can find them if you click here. This research shows there’s no doubt that smoking is bad for your skin. But, it turns out that tobacco might actually be good for skin.

Tobacco road

CosmeticsDesign reports that Italian researchers have discovered a sugar-peptide found in wild tobacco plants could have anti-aging properties for skin.  This complex has antioxidant properties as well as the ability to promote collagen synthesis.

The researchers were focused on finding compounds that could protect crops from environmental stresses but they discovered that the path ways they uncovered in plants had applications to animals as well. Specifically, they found that human keratinocytes treated with this sugar-peptide mix increased expression of two sirtuin proteins which are  thought to be linked to aging.

Will tobacco farmers everywhere breathe a sigh of relief for a more healthier use for their crops? Only time will tell.

Julie says…I don’t know if it’s available in the States, but in Malasia there’s is a coffee with collagen that supposedly has anti-aging effects. Is this product really good for my skin?

The Left Brain responds:

The product that Julie is referring to is the Nestlé’s “Nescafe Body 3-in-1 Coffee with Collagen.” According to what I read it is sold only in Singapore but Nestle has experimented previously with similar products in Japan. This is one of several new Nescafe products that promote “beauty from within.” But does it really work?

Collagen quandary

On one hand, there does appear to be some science behind this. According to at least one study (Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2009 Apr 23;73(4):930-2. Epub 2009 Apr 7.) daily ingestion of collagen peptide can help control UV-B induced skin damage and photoaging.  In this particular study, subjects ingested 0.2 g of collagen peptide per kilogram of body mass per day. That’s approximately 11 grams of collagen per day for a 125 pound woman.  On the other hand, coffee doesn’t appear to be an effective way to administer that much collagen. The Nescafe product contains about 200 mg (or .2 grams) per cup, so you’d need to drink about 55 cups of coffee every day to achieve the benefits that the collagen study identified. (You’d also need to drink 26 glasses of wine to calm down from all that caffeine!)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Based on a quick review of a single study, there does appear to be a possibility that ingesting enough of the right kind of collagen may be beneficial for your skin. But don’t fall for the marketing hype of collagen coffee.

The Left Brain updates:

I created quite a stir in the world of silk pillow cases last year when I tried to answer the question “Are Silk Pillow Cases Good For Your Skin? (Follow the link for the original post and all the entertaining comments.)

Silk from a sow’s ear?

According to the ASA (the UK organization that enforces British advertising laws) it looks like I was right.  Cosmeticsdesign reports that they have ruled that Direct Beauty Products have not adequately supported their advertising claims that their silk pillow cases have anti-aging properties.  A key issue was the lack of support for minimizing wrinkles. In this particular ad, the company even went so far as to imply that cotton and polyester pillow cases are a major cause of aging, second only to sun damage!

Despite the fact that the company presented a study from the American Academy of Dermatology suggesting that silk pillowcases might reduce sleep lines and wrinkles, the ASA upheld the complaint and said the advertisement must be removed from circulation.  It’s nice to see a governmental body looking out for truth, honesty, and the scientific way! Now if the ASA could just go after Kinoki Detox Foot Pads.

Left Brain reports breaking news from the UK…

Some time ago, there was a news story that reported Boots anti wrinkle cream actually worked. This caused a run on the product and it was quickly imported to the US where it sold great. Unfortunately, a news report is hardly proof of anything so we were a bit skeptical.

Anti wrinkle study

To their credit, the Boots company didn’t stop there. According to this BBC story, they were so certain their product worked, they actually hired a university to do a double-blind, placebo controlled study to prove it. This kind of study is what pharmaceutical companies are required to do to prove new drugs work so it’s the best.

The results of that study just came out and it shows that the Boots No7 Refine and Rewind Intense Perfecting Serum actually had an effect compared to a placebo. The study showed 43% of users saw an improvement in fine lines and wrinkles versus 22% who saw an improvement using the placebo. That means…

For 1 in 5 people, this product will reduce wrinkles

The Anti Wrinkle Study

We haven’t seen the study but it will be published in a peer reviewed journal, The British Journal of Dermatology. This is a legitimate scientific journal and should be respected. The study involved 60 participants (49 women, 11 men) and lasted for 6 months. Participants used the product each night on their hands and face. One group got the product (No7 Refine & Rewind Beauty Serum) and the other got a placebo which was the base product without the anti-aging ingredients including peptides, retinyl palmitate and lupin extract. The group that got the real product showed improved results.

Is Boots Best?

Although this study is promising, there are still a few things to consider.

1. How big is the effect? The authors demonstrate there is a noticeable effect but there’s no indication of how much. Are we talking some line reduction or major wrinkle removal?

2. Not for everyone. 43% of users saw an improvement which means 57% of users didn’t see any improvement at all. No telling who will be the lucky ones for which this product works.

3. Is it a drug? The company claims that the reason it works is because it stimulates fibrillin-1 production (a protein that promotes skin elasticity). In the US, this would fall under a drug classification because it interacts with the body’s metabolism.

4. Boots funded the study. It would be better if the funding was independent but the scientist said the paper would’ve been published no matter what the results were.  This makes this Beauty Brain a little skeptical.

Beauty Brains Bottom Line

It’s not definitive, but it looks like the Boots company has demonstrated their anti wrinkle cream (Boots No7 Refine and Rewind Intense Perfecting Serum) actually has an effect for some people. And once this gets out into the mainstream American media, you can bet it will be a lot tougher to get your hands on.

Are you convinced? Are you ready to go get your Boots anti wrinkle cream? What questions do you have about the study? Leave a comment below.