Hin asks…Are Frownies really a hollywood beauty secret,do they help to smooth forehead lines and creases between your eye brows (especially if some one has a habit of scrunching eyebrows)?

The Right Brain responds:

This question has come up from several of our readers. Lucia, for example, asked if “can using a patch to relax muscles while sleeping reduce wrinkles?” The answer comes from understanding the underlying role of muscles in facial wrinkles (pun intended). But first let’s look at how Frownies are supposed to work.

What are Frownies?

Frownies been around since the late 1800′s and they are allegedly used by Hollywood’s elite to secretly fight wrinkles. These adhesive strips are applied to your between the eyes, across the forehead, and at the corners of the eyes and mouth. According to their website, the strips “gently re-educate the underlying muscles to assume their correct, relaxed and natural appearance.”  They form a “splint” that holds the top layer of the skin in place so skin cells in the underlying layers can “reposition themselves,” thus removing the wrinkle.  (Click here to read more about the history of Frownies and how they work.)

Do Frownies really remove wrinkles?

As Hin asked, can you removewrinkles by “splinting” the skin? According to the opinions of the dermatologists that we’ve read the answer is “not so much” because muscle activity is not really the cause of wrinkles. In an interview St. John Providence.org, Dr Fedok, director of facial plastic and reconstructive surgery at Pennsylvania State University, says “It’s more due to damage from the sun.” That’s because over time UV radiation breaks down elastin and collagen, the components of the skin that give it structural integrity. This loss of structure is the real cause of wrinkles and manipulating the underlying muscles (either relaxing them or exercising them) won’t restore the collagen and elastin.  In the same article another dermatologist, Dr. Basler of the American Academy of Dermatology, says “The only thing that’s going to push those wrinkles out is if you increase the volume of your face, like blowing air into a balloon.” The good doctor Fedok also points out that gravity causes wrinkles by pulling on the connective ligament-like tissues that hold facial fat pads in place. Again, Frownies won’t undo the effect of gravity on stretched ligaments.

OK, what about preventing wrinkles?

When it comes to Frownies, an ounce of prevention may be worth a pound of cure. At least theoretically.  Dr. Fedok points out that some wrinkles, like laugh lines, can be caused by exaggerated facial expressions that eventually create changes in skin structure. If that’s the case, it’s plausible that, if worn long enough, Frownies could help prevent those wrinkles by helping you relax the muscles associated with those “exaggerated facial expressions.”  Maybe that explains why people seem to love these things (at least if you can trust the overwhelming positive reviews on sites like drugstore.com.) Of course without controlled studies, we’ll never know if there is a real benefit to Frownies or if the positive impression is just a halo effect. (And believe me, we looked for definitive studies and could find none.)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Based on input from dermatologists it appears unlikely that Frownies are able to reverse wrinkles. However, they may be able to prevent some wrinkles that are formed by repetitive facial expressions. Just in case, I’m buying a box to see if they can wipe the scowl off of the Left Brain’s face.

References:
Does exercise deliver for skin care?

Rutiga really wants to know…Is working out good for my skin? And if it is how does it work?

The Left Brain responds:

I looked for evidence that exercise increases cell turn over in the stratum corneum which would be measurable proof that working out renews skin more rapidly. While I couldn’t find a definitive study for this effect, I did find references from several dermatologists regarding the indirect benefits of exercise.

How exercise is good for skin

Increased nourishment
As you might imagine, exercise improves circulation which helps keep skin healthy. Increased blood flow nourishes skin cells and carries away waste products. (Remember that toxins are removed by the liver, not the skin.) (1)

Reduced stress-related breakouts
Exercise relieves stress and therefore can alleviate certain skin conditions that are worsened by stress, like acne and eczema. (According to sources,  studies have shown that the oil-producing sebaceous glands are triggered by stress hormones.) (1)

Improved healthy glow
Exercise pumps more oxygenated blood to the skin which gives your cheeks a healthier glow. (2)

How exercise is bad for skin

While exercise is good for skin it does pose some potential problems as well.

1. Friction and chafing from work out clothes
Be careful that your exercise clothes don’t rub you the wrong way.  Chafing can cause a special type of break out called “acne mechanica.” Rashes may also be worsened by a hot sweaty workout. For example, if you experience a rash in the groin, armpit, or neck areas, it may be a yeast-related condition called Intertrigo.  Miliaria is another condition which occurs when the sweat glands are clogged with dead cells or bacteria (kind of like acne. This leads to clusters of little, itchy blisters. (3)

2. Increased body temperature
Increased body temperature can aggravate rosacea and, in some cases, can cause a condition called Exercise-Induced Urticaria which causes people to break out in hives. (3)

3. Increased sun damage
If you prefer to exercise outdoors, be aware of the potential damage the extra time in the sun could be doing to your skin. Don’t assume that a simple application of sunscreen is enough to protect you because sweating removes sunscreen. According to the reference I found, it takes 40% less sun exposure to cause sun burning after sweating. (1)

4. Salt on skin
Salt reside from sweat can trigger an eczema or psoriasis outbreak. Similarly, watch out for excessive chlorine exposure from swimming. (1)

5. Post-workout washing
Even though you want, and need, to clean your skin after working out, be careful! Washing too often can cause dryness and exacerbate eczema and psoriasis. (1)

Out with the bad, in with the good

Just because exercise can be bad for you skin is no reason NOT to exercise! Take these simple precautions to maximize the benefits of working out while minimizing the negative side effects.

Wear proper clothing
Use moisture-wicking clothing to keep skin dry and cool. Avoid tight fitting clothes that will chafe skin. (1)

Start clean, stay clean
Clean your skin of any makeup before you work out to help avoid clogged pores. And after your after-workout shower, be sure to apply a moisturize your skin liberally to help prevent dryness and irritation. (1)

Keep cool
Do whatever you can to avoid elevating your body temperature when you work out. Swimming is good in this regard because the water keeps your skin cool. When ever possible workout in an air-conditioned space (or wait until the evening time to exercise) to keep your skin from becoming flushed. (1)

References:
1 Exercise for Health Skin WebMD
2. Does Exercise Deliver for Skin; St. John Providence.org
3. Improving Your Skin with Exercise; Psychology Today.com

Lily longs to learn…Should I only buy skin products that are pH-balanced?

The Left Brain replies:
I’ve always maintained that pH balanced skin care products are just marketing hype because the skin’s natural pH resets itself within as little as 15 minutes after applying lotion. But as a good scientist, I’m always willing to change my mind when new evidence is presented. In this particular case, new evidence has come in the form of an article written by the Beauty Brains’ favorite dermatologist, Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D. Should I change my opinion that pH balance is bunk? Read on to find out.

Acid reign?

In her article on Modernmedicine.com, Dr. Draelos points out that while the idea of pH-balanced products began as “marketing strategy” for products that have a neutral pH, there may actually be a benefit to using products that have a pH balance on the acidic side of the scale.

That’s because relatively new research shows that if the skin has trouble maintaining its naturally acidic pH (known as the acid mantle) then it may be more susceptible to certain diseases caused by bacterial growth. Therefore, products around pH 4 can help reduce bacterial colonization of the skin. However, the good doctor also points out that  ”products that are pH-balanced may offer some benefit in patients with skin disease.” (Emphasis mine.) In other words, if you have healthy skin you shouldn’t have a problem using products with a “regular” pH.

So while I’m in full agreement with the expert assessment that in some special cicumstwnces the pH of the product can make a difference, I maintain my stance that in the general case, pH balance is more hyperbole than healthy.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Don’t waste your money on products that expect you to pay more just because of their pH.

Do you want to learn more about which products really work and which ones are a waste of money? Download our free guide on How To Save Money On Beauty Products.

Mid Brain muses:

According to this article, the Fake Bake sunless tanning market is hot. Over the last few years major skin care manufacturers have discovered how to combine a skin moisturizer with a sunless tanner to make an effective light sunless tanner that gives a steady color change. These new tech products prevent the streaking effect that has been a major drawback of traditional sunless tanners. They also provide daily moisturization so there’s a reason to use them everyday. You get healthy skin and a natural looking color.

How do sunless tanners work?

To understand sunless tanning it is helpful to have a simple understanding of skin structure. Skin is made up of two primary layers, the dermis and the epidermis. The dermis is the inside layers of the skin where all the blood vessels and living skin cells reside. Cosmetics are not supposed to have any effect on the dermis.

The epidermis is the outer layer of skin composed of numerous layers of keratinized cells. These are dead cells composed primarily of protein. Every day millions of new cells get created beneath the surface of the skin and the ones on the outer most layer are worn away. The top layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum and this is where skin moisturizers and sunless tanning products do there work.

DHA  to tan sunless

There are several types of sunless tanning products including lotions, sprays, and even pills. The most effective products are topical treatments that contain an ingredient called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). When cosmetic chemists create formulas with it, DHA is a clear, colorless ingredient. But this sugar molecule (derived from glycerin) has a special property in which it chemically reacts with the skin cells in the stratum corneum. After this reaction occurs, the cells change to a brownish color and you get your tan.

Incidentally, DHA is the active ingredient used in commercial spray tanning booths. According to the FDA, DHA has no known health issues and has been used in cosmetics for over 30 years.

Since the cells get naturally removed after about 7 days, the color will also be removed. That means these products have to be applied frequently to maintain the tan. That`s why these new sunless tanners have proven so popular. Since people are already moisturizing their skin everyday, now they can get a little color as an added bonus.

Of all the sunless tanning products available, only DHA-containing ones are said to be effective by the American Academy of Dermatology. Other products such as tanning accelerators that contain tyrosine or pills containing canthaxanthin have never been proven to be effective. Bronzers are effective but they are more like make-up that can be easily washed off with soap and water.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

If you want a Fake Bake, stick to the ones that contain DHA. These products are safe and effective and produce a fairly good simulation of a tan. But if you do use these products make sure you continue to protect your skin with a sunblock. Just like a real tan, a fake tan will not protect you from the negative effects of UV exposure.

What do YOU think? Do you use sunless tanners? Leave a comment and share your fave fake bake with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Mid Brain muses:

The Left Brain is always saying “Tan skin is unhealthy skin”. It’s really not the kind of thing you want to hear when you complain about your fading tan. Sure I’ve heard people say that it’s unhealthy but I remain skeptical. Where is your proof? If we weren’t supposed to have tan skin, then why do we have this natural tanning reaction in our skin anyway?

The case against tanning

Well, here’s a bit of skin science I found that supports what the Left Brain was saying. In research being published in the October issue of Pigment Cell and Melanoma Research (yes there’s a scientific journal for everything) scientists claim that tanning and skin cancer have the same cause, UV damage to DNA.

They say that UV radiation is the most avoidable, known cause of cancer. And they go on to chastise the indoor tanning industry’s efforts to confuse people about the dangers of UV radiation. Just go read some of the comments of people defending indoor tanning in this previous post. They also call for a ban on tanning beds for people under the age of 18. According to published data, there is a suggestion that indoor tanning is linked to an increase in melanoma risk.

For more information, you can go read the full UV articles yourself.

And as a bonus, you can even listed to a podcast interview with one of the lead researchers, Dr. David E Fisher.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Laying out in the sun or on tanning beds is not safe. It might take some time but you’re significantly increasing your chance of developing skin cancer not to mention the wrinkled, saggy skin you’ll get when you’re older. Sure, it’s nice to have some color, but you’re better off getting it from self tanners. The technology has improved immensely and the risks are significantly lower than UV baking.

What do YOU think? Do you, or people you know, still use tanning beds? Leave a comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.