Mid Brain muses:

According to this article, the Fake Bake sunless tanning market is hot. Over the last few years major skin care manufacturers have discovered how to combine a skin moisturizer with a sunless tanner to make an effective light sunless tanner that gives a steady color change. These new tech products prevent the streaking effect that has been a major drawback of traditional sunless tanners. They also provide daily moisturization so there’s a reason to use them everyday. You get healthy skin and a natural looking color.

How do sunless tanners work?

To understand sunless tanning it is helpful to have a simple understanding of skin structure. Skin is made up of two primary layers, the dermis and the epidermis. The dermis is the inside layers of the skin where all the blood vessels and living skin cells reside. Cosmetics are not supposed to have any effect on the dermis.

The epidermis is the outer layer of skin composed of numerous layers of keratinized cells. These are dead cells composed primarily of protein. Every day millions of new cells get created beneath the surface of the skin and the ones on the outer most layer are worn away. The top layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum and this is where skin moisturizers and sunless tanning products do there work.

DHA  to tan sunless

There are several types of sunless tanning products including lotions, sprays, and even pills. The most effective products are topical treatments that contain an ingredient called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). When cosmetic chemists create formulas with it, DHA is a clear, colorless ingredient. But this sugar molecule (derived from glycerin) has a special property in which it chemically reacts with the skin cells in the stratum corneum. After this reaction occurs, the cells change to a brownish color and you get your tan.

Incidentally, DHA is the active ingredient used in commercial spray tanning booths. According to the FDA, DHA has no known health issues and has been used in cosmetics for over 30 years.

Since the cells get naturally removed after about 7 days, the color will also be removed. That means these products have to be applied frequently to maintain the tan. That`s why these new sunless tanners have proven so popular. Since people are already moisturizing their skin everyday, now they can get a little color as an added bonus.

Of all the sunless tanning products available, only DHA-containing ones are said to be effective by the American Academy of Dermatology. Other products such as tanning accelerators that contain tyrosine or pills containing canthaxanthin have never been proven to be effective. Bronzers are effective but they are more like make-up that can be easily washed off with soap and water.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

If you want a Fake Bake, stick to the ones that contain DHA. These products are safe and effective and produce a fairly good simulation of a tan. But if you do use these products make sure you continue to protect your skin with a sunblock. Just like a real tan, a fake tan will not protect you from the negative effects of UV exposure.

What do YOU think? Do you use sunless tanners? Leave a comment and share your fave fake bake with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Mid Brain muses:

The Left Brain is always saying “Tan skin is unhealthy skin”. It’s really not the kind of thing you want to hear when you complain about your fading tan. Sure I’ve heard people say that it’s unhealthy but I remain skeptical. Where is your proof? If we weren’t supposed to have tan skin, then why do we have this natural tanning reaction in our skin anyway?

The case against tanning

Well, here’s a bit of skin science I found that supports what the Left Brain was saying. In research being published in the October issue of Pigment Cell and Melanoma Research (yes there’s a scientific journal for everything) scientists claim that tanning and skin cancer have the same cause, UV damage to DNA.

They say that UV radiation is the most avoidable, known cause of cancer. And they go on to chastise the indoor tanning industry’s efforts to confuse people about the dangers of UV radiation. Just go read some of the comments of people defending indoor tanning in this previous post. They also call for a ban on tanning beds for people under the age of 18. According to published data, there is a suggestion that indoor tanning is linked to an increase in melanoma risk.

For more information, you can go read the full UV articles yourself.

And as a bonus, you can even listed to a podcast interview with one of the lead researchers, Dr. David E Fisher.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Laying out in the sun or on tanning beds is not safe. It might take some time but you’re significantly increasing your chance of developing skin cancer not to mention the wrinkled, saggy skin you’ll get when you’re older. Sure, it’s nice to have some color, but you’re better off getting it from self tanners. The technology has improved immensely and the risks are significantly lower than UV baking.

What do YOU think? Do you, or people you know, still use tanning beds? Leave a comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.  

Beth inquires: I know this isn’t a question related to a specific product, but I just have to ask. I keep getting a stye in the same spot on my eyelid, and I am scared to go to the doctor because I don’t want them to tell me to stop wearing makeup! I know, that is terrible. But I wash my makeup brushes regularly, I change my mascara every 3 months, I don’t do the same for my eyeshadows or eyeliners, however. I always get all of my makeup off before I go to bed. I am just wondering if there is any evidence of makeup causing styes? It seems strange that it would always be in the same spot if it were something in my makeup, wouldn’t it get on the other eye as well? Thanks for any guidance you can provide, I really love your blog and respect your science.

The Right Brain responds:

When Beth first posed this question, we urged her to overcome her fear and check with her doctor. That’s because we are cosmetic scientists NOT medical professionals and we would never want anyone to seek our advice in place of seeking help from their physician.

Thankfully Beth took our advice and asked a dermatologist. Even better, she was kind enough to write back and tell us what advice the doctor gave her. So, we thought we’d share her email with the rest of Beauty Brains community in case you ever have similar problems. Here’s what she said:

Hi Beauty Brains, I just thought you might like to know, that I did check with my dermatologist. She said some people are just prone to styes, and that it has absolutely nothing to do with makeup or products or anything. It’s just a “shell” that keeps filling and draining. If you really get them a lot, sometimes an ophthalmologist can remove the shell through surgery, but it can cause scarring. Just a hot compress is all you should use. Anyway, thanks for your reply, thought this might help if you get this question again!

Thank YOU Beth, for taking your time to share your learnings with the rest of the Beauty Brains community. It’s people like you that make doing this blog worth while. And we’re relieved to hear that you don’t have to worry about giving up your favorite eyeshadow! If you want to learn more, here’s a good article from Medline on the causes of styes.

Have you ever had a stye on your eye? Have you ever felt like you’re living in a pig sty? No? Well, um, have you ever watched a Julia Stiles movie? Close enough!

Be like Beth and leave a comment for the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Agent 23 asks: I hate under-boob sweat. It annoys me to no end. Plus it’s not like I can avoid it when I exercise. While sweat from everywhere else on my body evaporates within minutes, underboob sweat just sits there. I know I have the option of showering immediately after working out, but I don’t like using the gym’s shower, and I do like going to a coffee shop to relax by myself after my work out. Soooo, would it be safe to put antiperspirant under my boobs to prevent under-boob sweat?

Sarah Bellum says:

Despite all my begging and pleading, I can’t get the well endowed Right Brain to answer this question, so you’re stuck with my answer. But don’t worry, I’ll help you find a bit of Ban for your boobs, some Degree for your decollatage, or maybe even a little Arrid for under your areolas.

As the Righty previously blogged, antiperspirants really aren’t made to be used all over your body. In this case, I can think of three problems you might have if you put antiperspirant under your boobs.

Over heating

Antiperspirant stops you from sweating and that means your body can’t cool itself like its supposed to. If you put it all over your body, you might get dangerously over heated. But unless you have HUGE breasts, I doubt this will be a problem.

Irritation

I know antiperspirants can be irritating sometimes. Not sure how it might feel if some of it got up around the around the tender nippular area, if you catch my drift.

Stained clothing

You know those yellow stains your shirts get on their armpits? That’s because some aluminum salts used in antiperspirants combine with certain kinds of fabrics. If you get Secret on your Victoria’s Secret, you could ruin a bra. Or get underarm stains on your stomach, if that makes any sense.

The Beauty Brains booby…uh, bottom line

If you want my official answer, I say that antiperspirants are over the counter drugs that are designed to used only under your arms. But if you’re a wild and crazy gal, you might just ignore my advice and give it a try anyway. If you do, be sure to write back and tell us how it worked!

What do YOU think? Are you bothered by boob sweat? Leave a comment and share your titulating story with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Ava asks: I was hoping that you could settle something for us, being scientifically-inclined and all. I recently participated in a heated discussion about hydrogen peroxide being converted into bioavailable oxygen when in a cream, as claimed by Karin Herzog skincare. Not only does this seem impossible to me (and in fact very harmful in the long run to the skin barrier), but I tracked down all the research that supposedly upholds these claims and it is completely, utterly bogus.

Here’s my question: Is there a way to deliver oxygen to the skin in the form of a cream? Is it beneficial? Could hydrogen peroxide break down in order to deliver oxygen to the cells of the skin, as Karin Herzog claims?

The Left Brain responds:
I suggest you read the thread that Ava provided (see reference below) because it contains an excellent explanation from Paula Begoun, the Cosmetic Cop, on why oxygen is a bogus ingredient in cosmetics. Meanwhile, here’s my take on the subject:

A breath of fresh air

It’s true that oxygen is essential for healthy skin. But that’s only because you’d be DEAD without oxygen. Let me explain how that works: When you inhale oxygen it binds to hemoglobin in your red cells and is transported to various tissues throughout your body. From there it’s taken up into the cells, specifically into the mitochondria. These are tiny compartments that are equipped with special enzymes that bind to the oxygen to create energy for the cells. So oxygen that you breathe, that’s properly bound in your cells is important.

On the other hand, free oxygen is BAD for your skin because it can create free radicals that damage your cells. So despite the fact that Karin Herzog tells you her eye cream contains “0.5% oxygen that moisturizes, illuminates, tones, hydrates and firms the gentle eye area” your skin does NOT want free oxygen.

I can think of one case where there is a potential benefit to applying oxygen you skin. That’s using hydrogen peroxide as an antiseptic. The peroxide breaks and release oxygen that can have a mild germicidal effect. But that oxygen doesn’t penetrate into your skin!

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Don’t hold your breath waiting for oxygen skin care products to really work.

Reference:
Paula’s references on oxygen and skin can be found in this thread.