The results of our beauty science poll are in and it looks like most people missed this one. Only 14% of you were able to identify the third story as the fake headline. Most of you (52%) thought the first story was BS. But it’s actually true! Read below for an explanation of each story.

1. Your skin color may be influenced by what your grandmother ate. TRUE. In stuides with mice scientists demonstrated that the food eaten by one mouse could affect the skin and fur color of both their direct off-spring and the next generation. This is because their diet affects the genes that are turned on during the development of their off-spring. Skin color is one such gene and it is found in both mice and humans.

2. Excess melanin can make you more susceptible to skin cancer. TRUE. In a study published in a recent issue of Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences scientists showed that the presence of some types of melanin actually caused skin cancer. The type of melanin that was most responsible was the kind found in the hair of blondes and redheads. Just more evidence for these people to limit their sun exposure.

3. Regular running makes you more prone to skin cancer. FALSE! Cancer researchers at Rutgers found that exercise can actaully protect against skin cancer. In the study, they found that mice exposed to UV while they were running developed less cancer than similarly exposed sedentary mice. Of course when you are running outside, make sure you use sunscreen.

4. High stress can increase acne severity. TRUE. In research conducted by scientists at Wake Forest Univeristy School of Medicine, teenagers under higher levels of stress were found to be 23% more likely to have increased acne. So, if you want to keep a clear face reduce stress in your life.

Hello Beauty Brains community. How well do you know your beauty science? Check out the new poll and see if you can find the BS from the Beauty Science. Three stories are true but one is completely bogus. Can you find the fake?

Check out the left column of the Beauty Brains and click your answer today. Results will be published one week from today (5/29/07). Good luck!

While we had mentioned this in one of our Beauty Brains polls, we never discussed the full story. According to a study done by Consumer Reports, you are wasting your money if you buy expensive wrinkle reducing face creams. According to CR, there is no connection between price and effectiveness.

Of course, it’s not surprising to the Beauty Brains. Since we know the raw materials that go into both ultra expensive and ultra cheap beauty products, we can sincerely report retail price doesn’t always reflect formula quality.

Most interesting about the study was the conclusion that no cream was noticeably effective. Some had slight improvements but none were deemed worth it. In lab studies, CR found the most effective product was Olay Regenerist (Enhancing Lotion, Perfecting Cream and Daily Regenerating Serum).

One surprise was a $335 product scored among the lowest of all the products tried.

The full list (in order of performance) is as follows.

Best to Worst - Wrinkle Reducing Creams

1. Olay Regnerist : $57
2. Lancome Paris Renergie: $176
3. RoC Retin-Ox+ : $135
4. Neutogena Visibly Firm Night Cream w Active Copper : $38
5. Avon Anew Alternative Age Treatment : $64
6. L’Oreal Paris Dermo-Expertise Wrinkle De-Crease : $40
7. StiVectin-SD Intensive Concentrate : $135
8. La Prarie Cellular : $335
9. RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle : $40

Consumer Reports and Beauty Products

Now, we here at the Beauty Brains love magazines like Consumer Reports. We completely support what they are trying to do. However, in some ways their results are suspect. It is not as good as peer reviewed research. Consider this true story that happened to one of the Beauty Brains.

Years ago, Consumer Reports did a study comparing a large number of shampoo formulas. They tested properties like foam, detangling, conditioning, etc. Then all the products were rated.

Coincidentally, two formulas that one Beauty Brain had created were in the study. The only difference between these 2 formulas was the color, the fragrance, a couple of “claims” ingredients and the name. In all other ways the formulas were the same.

In the study however, the formulas scored differently. One product was called a great value while the other was rated only mediocre. If they tested them thoroughly, this should not have happened. Ever since then, I’ve always been a bit skeptical of Consumer Reports studies.

Beauty Brains’ bottom line

While Consumer Reports has noble intentions, you shouldn’t always rely on their conclusions. They are not experts in the product areas that they test so they’re apt to make mistakes. Having said that, we agree with the results of this particular study…don’t waste your money on high priced wrinkle creams. They aren’t worth it.

Katy has cause for concern: I have clusters of dry, red raised bumps on either side of my chin. I’ve been using hydrocortisone that helps but doesn’t cure them. I also have a flush to my cheeks and am prone to blushing, which are two characteristics of Rosacea. Does this sound like Rosacea and do you know of any better remedies Hydrocortisone?

The Right Brain rambles on Rosacea:

Katy, based on your description you might have a form of Rosacea but you really should really check with a dermatologist for the best course of treatment. Your question prompted us to include Rosacea in our Cosmetic Diseases and Disorders Series so everyone gains a better understanding of this condition. Hopefully you’ll find this information helpful.

What is Rosacea

Rosacea is an inflammatory skin condition that causes the skin around your nose, cheeks, chin and eyes to become very red and flushed. Over 14 million Americans suffer from this neurovascular disorder, according to the National Rosacea Society. Why is this such a disturbing disorder? Because it’s more than just a simple case of being red-faced! The condition has psychological effects as well. The Society has done studies that show nearly 70 percent of Rosacea sufferers have lowered self-esteem, and 41 percent say that the condition causes them to avoid public contact or cancel social engagements.

What causes Rosacea?

No one knows for sure but there are several theories. It could be related to how facial blood vessels cope with being flushed and dilated. Or, it could be that it’s an over active inflammatory response to some unknown pathogen. Though the exact cause is unknown, we do know that it can be worsened by harsh skin treatments, strong acne medications, and even exposure to excessive sunlight.

How can you tell if you have Rosacea?

Again, you should consult your dermatologist to find out if your condition really is Rosacea. But here are some common symptoms you can look for. The redness associated with Rosacea primarily occurs in the flushing zone, the nose, cheeks, chin and forehead. Besides the reddening, you may see dilated blood vessels and facial swelling. You may also feel a slight burning sensation on your face. Inflammatory papules and pustules (the red bumps you described?) may develop as well.

You should also note that Rosacea starts as mild episodes of facial blushing or flushing which can turn into a permanently red face over time.

There is a special type of Rosacea, known as Ocular Rosacea, that affects both the eye surface and eyelid. This condition can cause redness, dry eyes, redness, crusting and even loss of eyelashes.

What does Rosacea look like?

You can see for yourself by checking out these links, but some of these are a bit disturbing so use your discretion.

3 Photos of mild Rosacea

More photos of severe Rosacea

What can you do about Rosacea?

We didn’t find any reference to using hydrocortisone to fight Rosacea, but there are other medications that are used to control the redness and reduce the number of papules and pustules.

The most commonly used drugs are oral antibiotics and topical metronidazole. Isotretinoin (Accutane) has also been shown to work against severe papopustular rosacea because it physically shrinks sebaceous glands and it has potent anti-inflammatory properties. And there has been some discussion that topical application of a drug called Finacea may be a promising treatment as well. You’ll need a prescription form your doctor for all of these though.

There are some things you can do without a prescription: according to the experts, you should use a gentle cleansing regime to avoid aggravating the condition. So make sure you’re using a mild facial cleanser and not scrubbing too much! You should also limit sun exposure by protecting your skin with a good non-irritating sunscreen everyday. You might find a product that uses physical sunblock ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide might be less aggravating than some of the reactive sunscreens.

For much, much more on this subject, visit the Rosacea Support Group or the excellent Rosacea Blog.

A pedicure can hideously disfigure your legs.

Ok, maybe that’s a bit of an exaggeration but pedicures can be dangerous, at least according to one dermatologist`s report.

The report describes a case in which 110 women developed persistent red boils on their legs after having their toe nails done in a nail salon. It turns out that the infected sore were caused by a skin disease called mycobacterial furunuculosis. Further investigation showed that the whirlpool baths the women used were contaminated with Mycobacterium fortuitum, the bacteria that cause this condition.

Two factors made the situation even worse: First, their salon used the throne type footbaths that are mounted to the chair (as opposed to the plain foot baths that can be picked up and washed in a sink.) These throne type baths are more likely to be contaminated because they`re harder to clean. Second, 70% of the women who contracted the disease had shaved their legs prior to their treatment which left them even more vulnerable to attack by the bacteria.

While this condition is treatable with antibiotics, the infection can be tough to get rid of and it can leave the legs seriously scarred. So, to make sure you`re safe out there, here are the Beauty Brains’ tips on how to protect yourself during a pedicure:

1.) Get off the throne
The common denominator in these cases was the throne type footbath. So get off the “throne” and use a plain footbath that is thoroughly washed and disinfected between uses.

2.) Wait until after your pedicure to shave
Since shaving your legs can open up tiny cuts in the skin through which bacteria can enter, you`re much safter if you shave AFTER your pedicure. Remember, shaving was a risk factor for infection in 70% of the patients.

3.) Don’t be promiscous with your choice of salon

The salon in this study had 110 customers who became infected. Knowing the people who run the salon and knowing others who use their services will increase your chances of being tipped off to a problem before you`re the next victim. If you consistently use the same salon you’ll be better off in the long run.

The Brains Bottom Line:

Sure your nails look good with a coat of Orly or OPI. But your legs DON’T look good covered in oozing red sores. So use some salon smarts and protect yourself from pedicure panic.

Here’s a great tip for the Do-It-Yourself crowd: Duct tape can cure warts!

Yes, it’s true, according to Anthony J. Mancini M.D., an associate professor at Northwestern University`s School of Medicine Children`s Memorial Hospital in Chicago.

Dr. Mancini says he uses duct tape as an inexpensive and relatively painless way to treat warts. He has his patients apply the duct tape over the wart, leave it on for about a week, remove the tape, and then file the wart with an emory board. It’s that easy.

But how can such a simple household item treat a sustained viral infection?

No one knows, at least not for sure. But theoretically the tape could be debriding, or stripping the dead skin from the wart and carrying the wart virus along with it. That’s kind of how other wart therapies work. (Like the Compound W or Kryoderm freezing technique). Another possible mechanism is that occluding skin with duct tape somehow triggers the patient’s immune system to fight the virus. There’s no solid data to support this theory but doctors do use immunotherapy against warts in some patients.

How often do you hear of a doctor advocating a simple, cheap solution instead of an expensive medical treatment? Not very often! So the Beauty Brains community sends a big group hug out to Dr. Mancini! Thanks Doc!

Jennifer’s seeing red: I’ve got a gizmo called the “Red Light Therapy Wand With Infrared and Magnetic Massage Function” or something like that. It’s supposed to stimulate the skin to grow new collagen by zapping the dermis with a combination of red visible light and infrared waves. This is the first I’ve heard of using red light bulbs to rejuvenate skin. Is there anything to this? If so, couldn’t someone just make their own “red light therapy wand” by strapping some red cello over a flash light and basking in its glow? The Red Brain, uh, I mean Right Brain responds:

Believe it or not, shining a light on your skin can reduce wrinkles. Provided, of course, that it’s the right kind of light!

Intense Pulse Light Technology Fights Wrinkles

Intense Pulse Light (IPL) technology involves using a special type of laser light on skin to stimulate collagen production. This process has been proven to make your skin tighter and less wrinkley but it’s expensive and it takes a while to work. (For more details, you can read our previous post on photofacials.) “Regular” red light (visible or infrared wavelengths) does not have the same effect on the underlying layers of skin as IPL does, so your “Red Light Therapy Wand” is not the real deal.

Because of the specialized laser equipment required for a photo facial, this kind of treatment has been available only through derms or professional spas. That is, until now: Cosmeticdesign.com reports that P&G is looking at a home IPL device that can “simultaneously harness bi-polar and optical energies to overcome the safety and operating limitations that, until recently, has meant other IPL therapies have had to be carried out by professionals.” Sounds better than another worthless wrinkle cream, doesn’t it? And definitely better than putting red cellophane over a light bulb!

Jessica admits to commiting a beauty sin: she tans indoors. She’s been told that in order to maximize your skin’s ability to tan, you should use an indoor tanning lotion. They have ingredients such as Tyrosine that are supposed to make you tan faster/better, as opposed to regular body lotion. She wants to know if the ingredients in indoor tanning lotions make a difference in how you tan. The Right Brain reponds:

Jessica, Jessica, Jessica. We’ll skip the lecture about how bad tanning is for your skin and instead we’ll just jump right in and start bashing tanning accelerators. To put it scientifically, these tyrosine tanners are bulls**t. The companies that sell pills and lotions with tryosine claim that they stimulate the production of melanin, the natural pigment that makes you look tan. Unfortunately, that’s just not true.

How Tyrosine In Your Body Is Good For Your Tan

It is true that tyrosine plays a role in the tanning process. It’s an amino acid that your body forms by breaking down the protein you eat. This amino acid is then broken down by an enyzme called tryosinase that is formed by melanin-producing cells in your skin known as melanocytes. This reaction converts tyrosine into a chemical called DOPA. DOPA reacts further to form Dopaquinone which in turn forms the different types of melanin. (Eumelanin is black-brown and pheomelanin is yellow-red.) This chain reaction is triggered when your skin is exposed to UV light.

How Tyrosine in Tanning Pills and Lotions Is Bad

But taking pills with tyrosine or rubbing a tyrosine lotion on your skin doesn’t really help the process. In fact, according to the American Cancer Society, Tanning accelerators, such as those formulated with the amino acid tyrosine or tyrosine derivatives, are ineffective … evidence suggests they don’t work. FDA considers them unapproved new drugs that have not been proven safe and effective. It makes sense if you think about it - swallowing a chemical like tyrosine or rubbing it on your skin doesn’t necessarily make it available to the right metabolic pathways.

So shame on all the companies out there marketing tyrosine-based products! Shame on you Hawaiin Tropic Tan 2 Max. Shame on you Reviva Sun Tan Protection Lotion. And shame on YOU, Bio-tan Sunless Tanner.

The Brains Bottom Line: Don’t waste your money on tyrosine tanning accelerators, they don’t do anything special for your tan.

Darla Dares To Ask: I love shopping in Bath and Body Works and this year when I go in there has been a lot of hype about their Wexler line of anti-aging skincare line. And they tell me about MMPs and MMPIs and how this is supposed to be a revolutionary skincare line. Is it really worth the hype and is it worth the money to help ease the signs of aging? The Right Brain Responds:

What are MMPs and Why Are They Bad?

MMP stands for Matrix Metalloproteinases which are naturally produced enzymes that help regulate the skin`s ability to repair itself. MPPi stands for Matrix Metalloproteinase Inhibitor, in other words, an agent that prevents MMPs from forming.

There are many types of MMPs, and while the function of all of them is not fully understood, it appears that several of them can degrade collagen and elastin which give skin its structure and firmness. Other MMPs play a role in inflammatory skin conditions like acne. These bad MMPs increase as you age and with exposure to environmental stressors. High MMP activity can result in wrinkles, loss of firmness, and dull, uneven skin tone.

Enter Dr. Patricia Wexler. She claims that her Wexler line of products use MMP Inhibitors to help skin`s own regenerating powers to interrupt damage and inflammation that leads to the most common skin concerns. She references studies which shows her products do indeed inhibit MMP production.

Can Cosmetics Really Protect You From MMPs?

According to Dr. Wexler’s website, she has done studies to show that her MMPi technology really works. The data on the website shows that she meastured a reduction in MMP production but there’s no data on how the skin itself was affected. In other words, did she prove her products have a beneficial effect on skin or did she only prove her products react a certain way in laboratory tests? Since she only references the studies and doesn’t actually link to them, it’s impossible to tell exactly what her studies do or don’t prove.

So is there any unbiased, peer review data to suggest what Wexler says is true? Sort of. This article from Pubmed shows research that indicates treatment with isotretinoin (the drug Accutane) can reduce two types of MMPs (MMR9 and 13) and that may be the mechanism by which Accutane works. Of course, Accutane is a prescription drug so you won`t find it in a cosmetic product. And while this study appears to validate that certain MMPs might play a role in acne, it doesn`t prove that MMPi’s can help fight wrinkles. Other than this study, we couldn’t find much to back up Dr. Wexler’s theories. But, we admit there is a lot of research on MMPs and it’s impossible for us to research ALL the studies that have been done.

The Brain`s Bottom Line

Scientists seem to agree that MMPs do play a role in various skin conditions, but we haven`t been able to find any data to show that MMP Inhibitors used in cosmetic products show a consumer perceivable benefit. Until we see some more data, we`re in agreement with The Cosmetic Cop who wrote a nice summary of these cell-communicating ingredients. She concluded that currently, there`s no solid research that shows these peptide-based ingredients perform as indicated by their claims.

Debbie has a problem with red, broken capillaries on her face. She saw an ad for Dr.Hauschka Rose Day Cream that said that it would help with this problem so she’s asking us if it works before she spends a small fortune for it. The Right Brain Responds:

The Cause of Broken Capillaries

The problem you describe is a condition called telangiectasia. The blood vessels are probably not broken, it’s more likely that they’re just enlarged which makes them more visible through the skin.

Some forms of telangiectasia are caused by diseases or other medical conditions. If this is the case for you, you should consult your physician. But other cases of telangiectasia have no clear cause. These are termed Generalized Essential Telangiectasia (or GET for short.)

How To GET Rid Of Visible Blood Vessels

If GET is what you`ve got, you should ask your Derm if you`re a candidate for laser phototherapy. This kind of treatment has been shown to be helpful. But according to the research we`ve seen, there are no topical treatments that are proven to get rid of GET. Interestingly, in at least a few cases, antibiotics (like tetracycline) and antiviral drugs (like Acyclovir) have been helpful in clearing up GET. Again, ask your doctor.

The Beauty Brains Bottom Line:
Dr.Hauschka`s Rose Day Cream may be a perfectly fine facial moisturizer, but there`s no credible scientific reason that it should help your “broken” blood vessels.