If you want learn how to pick a mild facial cleanser, read this Beauty Brains article on Today.com. We talk about formulations containing Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (the same ingredient used in the mildest body washes) and we give the example of Murad Renewing Cleanser that uses milder ingredients than other leading products.

Disclaimer: If you purchase Murad using this link you’ll be supporting the Beauty Brains blog.

Murad Renewing Cleanser

WATER (AQUA), SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE, STEARIC ACID, GLYCERYL STEARATE SE, CETYL ALCOHOL, PRUNUS ARMENIACA (APRICOT) KERNEL OIL, MENHADEN OIL, BORAGO OFFICINALIS SEED OIL, OENOTHERA BIENNIS (EVENING PRIMROSE) OIL, SERENOA SERRULATA FRUIT EXTRACT, PANTHENOL, ALGAE EXTRACT, CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA (MATRICARIA) EXTRACT, SODIUM HYALURONATE, IMPERATA CYLINDRICA ROOT EXTRACT, SORBITOL, CARICA PAPAYA (PAPAYA) FRUIT EXTRACT, CITRUS MEDICA LIMONUM (LEMON) FRUIT EXTRACT, GLYCERIN, BENZOPHENONE-4, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-8, CARBOMER, XANTHAN GUM, PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) OIL, CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA (LIME) OIL, CITRUS TANGERINA (TANGERINE) PEEL OIL, ANIBA ROSAEODORA (ROSEWOOD) WOOD OIL, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS AMARA (BITTER ALMOND) KERNEL OIL, BAROSMA BETULINA LEAF OIL, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL

Here are the complete ingredient lists for the clean face products discussed in the Today.com article that don’t use the same mild ingredient.

Sebamed Liquid Face and Body Wash

Water (Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Chloride, Laureth-2, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Glycol Distearate, Fragrance (Parfum), Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Pyridoxine HCI (Vitamin B6), Glycine, Magnesium Aspartate, Alanine, Lysine, Leucine, Biotin (Vitamin H), Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Citrate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Yellow 10 (CI 47005), Blue 1 (CI 42090)

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap

Purified water, sodium laureth sulfate, lauramidopropyl betaine,  cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium chloride, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, tea cocyl glutamate, butylene glycol, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto fruit extract), PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, sucrose, menthol, hexylene glycol, polyquaternium-7, laureth 2, caprylyl glycol, sodium sulfate, EDTA, disodium EDTA, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol

References (JSCC):

Why is sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) mild to the skin barrier?An in vitro investigation based on …2007, Vol 58

Review of properties of surfactants that determine their interactions with stratum corneum 1997, Vol 48

The use of fluorescein as a probe to monitor anionic surfactant rinsability from skin 1998, Vol 49

Continuing our look at the ingredients of the top selling products on Amazon.com…

One interesting thing that I’ve already discovered by writing this series is that the top beauty products on Amazon.com change very quickly. Two days ago Rogaine was the number one product, now it has slipped to number two. As of the time of this writing, the number 4 product is Aveeno Active Naturals Body Wash.

Aveeno Active Naturals Body Wash Ingredients

Water
As with almost every other cleansing product this formula is based on water as a solvent.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate
A cleansing agent which is a cousin of SLS, but a little bit less irritating and a little less foamy.

Glycerin
Moisturizing agent.

Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Secondary surfactant that produces a nice mild creamy phone.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Another foam booster that also allows the formula to be thickened with salt.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Extract
Pretty botanical extracts that don’t really do anything.

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Oils rich that, at a high enough concentration in a leave in product, could help moisturize skin.  However, it is highly unlikely they are functional in this rinse off formula.

Fragrance
Hey, this stuff’s got to smell good.

Sodium Benzoate
Preservative.

Sodium Citrate
Buffer and preservative booster.

Styrene Acrylates Copolymer
Thickener.

Polysorbate 20
Emulsifier.

Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
Thickener.

Polyquaternium 7
Skin conditioning ingredient.

Tetrasodium EDTA
Preservative

Citric Acid (may also contain)
pH adjuster. (Only added to the formula if the pH is too high, which it says “may also contain.”)

Image credit: Amazon.com

QM29′s irritation inquiry: I’ve read about SLS and how it is a harsh cleanser that dry/sensitive skins should avoid. But there are plenty of variety in “cleanser components” in shower gels/shampoo/soaps. Which are the components to look for when you have dry skin and/or dry hair ? Which ones are to be avoided ? Are they the same for skin and hair ?

The Right Brain’s mildness missive:
There are many ingredients that are milder than SLS but rather than bore you with a litany of chemical names we’ll cut right to the chase: Based on several research studies (see references below from the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists), the mildest cleansing ingredient for hair and skin is: sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Why so serious (about mildness?)

Sodium Cocoyl Isthionate (or SCI for short) is thought to be milder than other surfactants for two reasons: It doesn’t strip as much natural oil from your skin and it doesn’t attach to protein as strongly as other cleansers so it rinses better and is therefore less irritating. So why doesn’t every cleansing product use this ingredient? Again, two reasons: it’s expensive and (by itself) it doesn’t produce the most aesthetically pleasing product. That’s why you’ll most commonly see it used as a secondary surfactant in products.

If you want to try this mild cleansing ingredient  yourself, here is our top ten list of body washes that use it in significant quantities  (i.e., SCI is the first or second ingredient after water as long as the first ingredient is not a lauryl or laureth sulfate.)

One important note: we’re only talking about the mildness of this ingredient. There is no way for us to know if any of these products will irritate you because of other ingredients, like the fragrance. But if you’re sensitive to sulfate-based products and you are looking for an alternative that is based on milder cleansing chemistry, you might want to give some of these a try.

Top 10 mild body washes

1. Ahava Dermud Moisturizing Shower Cream
2. Carol’s Daughter Goddess Flower Body Cleansing Cream
3. Crabtree & Evelyn Crabtree & Evelyn India Hicks Spider Lily Body Polish
4. Enkido Earthy Pleasures Body Wash
5. I.C.O.N. One Soul Hair and Body Shampoo
6. Moor Spa/Elixea Shower Gel
7. Natural Magic Eco-Herbal Skin Care Herbal Cleansing Foam
8. Nature’s Gate Papaya Velvet Moisture Body Wash
9. Wildwood Naturals Citrus Sage Foaming Bath Butter
10. Zia Natural Skincare Ultimate Cleansing Mousse

Full disclosure: if you click the links above and buy anything from Amazon.com we make like an eighth of a cent per purchase, or something like that. I know that doesn’t sound like a lot, but it’s enough to cover a couple of bottles of Grey Goose for Sarah Bellum. Thanks for supporting the Beauty Brains!

References (JSCC):

Why is sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) mild to the skin barrier?An in vitro investigation based on …2007, Vol 58

Review of properties of surfactants that determine their interactions with stratum corneum 1997, Vol 48

The use of fluorescein as a probe to monitor anionic surfactant rinsability from skin 1998, Vol 49

Have YOU ever tried a cleaning product with SCI? Leave a comment and share your experiences with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Image credit: weddingstamps.info/postage

Kalisa’s Question…What can you tell me about Neutrogena Deep Clean Invigorating Cleanser/Mask? Specifically, is there any additional benefit to my skin of using it as mask (leaving it on for three minutes) as opposed to merely washing my face with it?

The Right Brain’s Answer:
To our surprise, Neutrogena does indeed recommend that this cleanser can be left on and used as a mask. We quote:

This revolutionary formula works as a daily cleanser or 3-minute mask. It foams instantly to dissolve dirt, oil and makeup. Skin tingles as the cooling lather deep cleans to leave skin feeling energized and shine-free for hours. For more intensive cleansing, use it as a mask. As it dries, you’ll feel it working deep within the skin’s surface to absorb shine-causing oil and pore-clogging impurities.

Why do we find this surprising? Let’s look at the ingredients, ignoring preservatives, fragrance, etc., and just focusing on the functional ingredients:

Ingredients that clean your skin:
Methyl Gluceth 20, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate, Polyquaternium-7

Ingredients that form a film on your skin and feel like a mask:
Polyethylene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Wax

Based on the presence of the mask type ingredients, this does look different than a typical cleanser – it appears to be designed to have a mask like feel to it. But how good of a mask is this? Typical masks contain clay or some kind of film forming polymer that really tighten the skin as it dries. Becaus this formula is different and because it contains so many cleansing ingredientes that will tend to soften the film so we doubt formula one would give you that strong tightening effect. Based on looking at the formula, our guess is this product would be a really good cleanser but it wouldn’t be a great mask.

But our real concern is about leaving this much surfactant on your face for so long. Surfactants, even relatively mild ones like this formula uses, can irritate skin. This product also contains menthol which is a known irritant.

The Beauty Brain’s bottom line:

Based on looking at the ingredients, we think that the risk of drying out your skin would outweigh any potential benefits. That’s our opinion without doing any testing so take it with the proverbial grain of salt. If anyone has tried this, let us know.

Lux Likes This Question… I wanted to know about glycolic treatments and Peel Off Masks available in drugstores and beauty counters. What do these treatments do? Are these treatments effective or are you better off going to a Dr’s office for a facial peel with a higher acid content? If the treatments the public can buy are effective, what ingredients and/or percent concentration should I look for?

The Right Brain responds:
Glycolic peels performed by a dermatologist can be pretty potent. One study shows they’re equally as effective as microdermabrasion. Ouch! These high power Derm peels use a glycolic acid concentration of 20% while over the counter like Peter Roth only use about 10%. So yes, there is a difference. You might be satisfied with the drug store brand, but if not, see your doctor.

What do YOU think of facial peels? Leave a comment and share your brainy-ness with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.