LeighAnn longs to learn: The new Keri Renewal Serum claims to moisturize, protect and exfoliate with visible results in three days. I was wondering what your opinion on this product is and since they call it a serum, how different is it from any run of the mill moisturizer.

The Left Brain’s reply:
The Keri brand, which was created by Bristol Myers Squibb and recently acquired by Novartis Consumer Health, has gotten a make over. One of the new products they’ve launched is Keri’s Renewal Serum which claims to be “a triple-action formula that moisturizes, protects and exfoliates to give you fast, effective relief from rough, dry skin. This patented formula combines specialized polyhydroxy acids with rich moisturizers to help repair and nourish the skin while providing a protective barrier to retain moisture.”

Serum vs lotion

Let’s take the easy question first: why is this a serum and not a moisturizing lotion? In the cosmetic industry there are no absolute definitions for these terms; companies are really free to use whatever descriptors they want. But in general, lotions are creams made by mixing water and oil. Serums tend to be thick liquids, usually clear, because they don’t contain oils. The Keri product is a mixture of water in a silicone base.

Moisturize, protect, and exfoliate

Based on a review of the ingredients, this product should pretty much do what it says. That’s because it contains propylene glycol, a known humectant-type moisturizer, as well as lactobionic acid which is a relatively new type of cosmetic ingredient known as a Polyhydroxy Acid, or PHA.

Here’s the complete ingredient list:
Water, Urea, Propylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclomethicone, Lactobionic Acid, Gluconolactone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Arginine, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ammonium Hydroxide, Dimethiconol, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben

What are PHAs

A PHA is special type of Alphahydroxy Acid (AHA) that is larger and has more hydroxy groups. Keri contains two: lactobionic acid which comes from oxidized lactose or milk sugar, and gluconolactone which is made from oxidized glucose (a natural sugar found in the human body). PHAs are considered to be the next generation AHA because they provide milder exfoliation and better moisturization. (Learn more about PHAs). This particular formula is patented, but I couldn’t find a reference to it (Novartis has over 2000 patents in the US!) If anyone has a bottle of the serum, let me know if the patent number is on the package and I’ll look into it further.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Keri product sells for about $16 US which is considerably more than a typical lotion. Is it technically worth more ? It might be, depending on your needs. If you have very dry skin, need exfoliation, and don’t tolerate AHAs very well, then buy a bottle of Keri serum and give it a try. But if you just need a regular moisturizer, save your money and buy a typical lotion.

Teresa has Trepidations: I was shopping for high end spa products and noticed that their exfolliant cream contains Nonoxynol-9, a famously debated spermicide ingredient! I’m assuming it’s not there to keep my freshly smoothed skin from becoming pregnant. So why is it in my creme and is there any downside to using it?

The Right Brain calms her down:

Take a deep breath Teresa, there’s nothing to worry about.

Some creams contain detergents

Nonoxynol-9 (or N-9) is in your spa cream to help the dissolve the oil soluble ingredients in the cream base. That’s because it’s a surfactant (which is short for surface active agent) which is just a fancy way of saying it’s a type of detergent. The cool thing is that N-9 is a nonionic surfactant which is a special type that doesn’t create a lot of lather. Otherwise the spa cream would get all foamy when you rub it into your skin.

Detergents can be spermicidal

It just so happens that N-9’s ability to dissolve oil into water has a very important side effect – it can also dissolve the acrosomal membranes of sperm, which stops the little guys from swimming. That’s why it’s used in many spermicidal creams, jellies, foams, gel, film, and suppositories. So, N-9 serves double duty: shy spa-cream emulsifier by day; sultry sperm-killer by night.

Finally, I feel compelled to point out that this discussion reminds me of the Seinfeld episode about being “sponge-worthy.”

Margaret and Betty are inquisitive about Definity: Margaret says Definity works great for her but she wants to know if all the products in the line are basically the same; Betty is worried that Definity’s not safe because she heard it contains hydroquinone.

The Right Brain provides this definitive response:

P&G must be doing a good job of marketing their Olay line because we get a lot of questions about Definity. So, we present a double dose of Definity: In Part 1 we explain how the products work; in Part 2, we’ll talk about how the products in the line are different from one another.

What Does Definity Do?

According to P&G, Definity “fights what ages you most: discoloration, dullness, brown spots, and fights wrinkles.” The fighting wrinkles stuff is pretty standard in beauty creams. If you’re hydrating the skin (especially if you’re using a film forming agent that helps hide fine lines) you can support anti-wrinkle claims. The interesting aspect of Definity is that it claims to make the skin more luminous because it gets rid of darkness and dullness.

How Does Definity Make Skin Luminous?

Skin lightening claims like these normally involve hydroquinone, a skin bleaching agent that’s come under fire for safety reasons. Fortunately, Definity doesn’t contain hydroquinone. Instead, it uses N-acetyl glucosamine, chemical that inhibits glycosylation of pro-tyrosinase. (Relax, that just means it prevents the kind of chemical reactions that make liver spots and freckles.) N-acetyl glucosamine (or NAG as it’s known) is not as effective as hydroquinone, but it’s safer to use.

Sound too good to be true? Check out the multiple clinical test results that show glucosamine effectively prevents dark age spots. And if dark spots are reduced, skin will look lighter and more luminous.

Of course, the question is, how MUCH improvement will you really see. The only way to tell for sure is to try the product. But at least Olay has done their homework and formulated a product line that’s based on science, not snake oil.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

Definity does contain an ingredient proven to lighten skin. Of course, that doesn’t guarantee that you’ll notice a difference yourself. It’s a bit expensive at $22 for 1.7 ounces, but at least their claims are based on real science.

In Part 2 we’ll talk about the other products in the line and how they differ.

Christine’s Question: Tell us about Revitol, “The beauty secret of the stars!” Their moisturizer is supposed to contain an “uninjectable” Botox. The before and after pictures are amazing but I’ve learned that before I buy ANYTHING else I am checking it out with you! The Right Brain’s Revitol-izing reply:

You’re wise to be skeptical, Christine. Before and after pictures are not always credible proof of efficacy. And looking at the information provided by Revitol for their Moisturizing Skin Treatment Cream, we see that some of it is technically misleading and some is blatantly untrue.

For example, they say: “Hyaluronic Acid has been found to help maintain healthy collagen and to keep the skin moisturized. Reduced levels of Hyaluronic Acid are associated with a wide range of diseases, including premature wrinkling, osteoarthritis, Marfan syndrome and detached retinas.”

We Say: It’s true that hyaluronic acid is a good moisturizer (it binds moisture to the surface of skin when applied topically.) But the diseases they attribute to reduced levels of HA are genetic conditions. NOTHING applied to your skin will affect those diseases. To imply that rubbing HA on your skin can affect damaged genes is pure rubbish.

They Say: “Argireline is a safer alternative to Botox. It works by relaxing facial tension because it reduces excessive release of the neurotransmitters, called catecholamines, that make your facial muscles tense up. It’s as simple as that: reduce muscle tension, avoid poison and maintain skin shape.”

We say: It’s not as simple as that at all! First, you have to get the Argireline down to the muscle tissue. To get to the muscle you have to pass through a thick layer of skin, then fat, then connective tissue. (That’s why Botox requires injection!) Second, even if the chemical could penetrate that deeply, if it’s going to reduce the release of neurotransmitters it has to get inside the neuromuscular junction. And that requires a specific biochemical transporter to move the chemicals into the neurons. Finally, even IF it could work, it would be a drug that is regulated by the FDA.

We could give you more examples, but you get the idea. This Revitol product may be a nice moisturizing cream, but The Beauty Brains think their technical credentials are dubious at best.

Annette Anxiously Asks: I read your post on mineral oil myths. I`m curious about using mineral oil with skin care ingredients that should penetrate the skin (Vitamin C, for example). Does mineral oil prevent their absorption? I would hate to spend a fortune on Vitamin C serums to then find the cheap mineral oil I was using was preventing them working. The Left Brain responds:

To be safe, you should apply “active” ingredients like Vitamin C or even sunscreens BEFORE you apply anything else. This is especially true if you’re using straight mineral oil, because it can set up a barrier on top of your skin.

But what about a Vitamin C lotion that contains mineral oil? Will that prevent absorbtion? Probably not. While occlusive ingredients, like mineral oil, can impede penetration of some ingredients, it depends on what else is in the formula to help drive the actives into the skin. This varies from formula to formula. If you’re buying a well-formulated product from a reputable manufacturer, they’ve probably done their home work to test the product to make sure it works as they claim.

Andreea asks: I’m thinking of buying the Korres Pomegranate Balancing Moisturizer. Their products are silicone free, mineral oil free, propylene glycol free and ethanolamine free. What do you think about Korres “ are they better since they`re more natural? The Left Brain communicates about Korres:

The Korres products do appear to be tantalizingly natural. They make a big deal out of the fact that they don`t use mineral oil or propylene glycol. But if you’re a regular reader of the Beauty Brains, you already know that mineral oil is perfectly fine for your skin! (And basically the same is true of propylene glycol.)

According to their website, Korres pride themselves on broadly avoiding synthetic components that can sum up to 30 to 60% of a cosmetic formula, replacing them with greatly beneficial naturally derived ingredients. Sounds too good to be true, doesn`t it? But are their products really more natural?

I see from looking at the ingredient list for the Pomegranate skin moisturizer you mentioned that they do use natural ingredients. For example, the formula contains plant extracts like Punica Granatum Extract (Pomegranate), Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Jojoba), Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, and Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, to name a few.

But I also see C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Sucrose Cocoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Lauryl Glucoside, Methylparaben, PEG 8, Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Propylparaben, and Carbomer. These ingredients are emulsifiers, thickeners, and preservatives that are used in many other unnatural cosmetics. So at best, Korres` claim about replacing synthetic components with naturally derived ingredients seems to be a bit of a stretch.

This argument really comes down to a case of what is considered natural and what is not. I think everyone would agree that pomegranate extract is natural. But what about mineral oil which is refined from petroleum that comes out of the earth? It is it any more or any less natural? Since there is no single definition of what constitutes natural there is no clear answer. Companies can pretty much say anything they want about natural even if they`re exploiting consumer ignorance and fear of chemistry to make a buck.

I’m not saying the Korres product isn`t a good moisturizer. I’m just put off by the fact that they`re trying to mislead consumers with bad information.

Veronica`s Very Concerned: Are eye creams really necessary? I`ve been using them for years, and I`m starting to wonder if they are really specially formulated for skin around the eyes. Why do I say so? Because I compared ingredients comparison between a face moisturizer (Olay Regenerist Deep Hydration Regenerating Cream) and eye cream (Olay Regenerist Eye Lifting Serum) and found that they`re very similar. What gives? The Right Brain Tries To Assuage Her:

You’re right, eye and face cream formulas can be pretty similar. Of course, this varies from brand to brand, but it`s certainly possible for a company to formulate and test a product that works perfectly well on your face and under your eyes. So while in principle there’s nothing with using face cream around your eyes, there are few issues you should be aware of:

1. Face and eye skin are different

Face creams are designed for the skin on your face, not the very thin skin under your eyes. So, they might be too greasy. That doesn`t mean they won`t work it just means they might not feel as nice.

2. Eye creams should be better tested

Eye creams (at least ones from reputable companies) should tested to see if they are harmful if you accidentally get some in your eye. Face creams may or may not be tested this way. Look at the Olay products and you’ll see that the eye cream is opthalmologist tested and the face cream is not.

3. Face creams may contain more irritants

Face creams may contain fragrance or other ingredients that can be irritating when used close to your eyes. The Olay Regenerist is a good example “ the face cream has fragrance, the eye cream does not.

The Beauty Brains Bottom Line:

Depending on which brands you buy, you can use your facial moisturizer as an under eye cream. But you might be better off finding an inexpensive eye cream from a brand you trust.

Saskya ask…Does any one know some about Juice Beauty? I’m looking for a new mosturizer, but I don’t really know what to buy I don’t want something extremely expensive.

The Left Beauty Brain replies
If you are looking for a new moisturizer but don’t want to spend a lot of money then Juice Beauty is not the product for you. Based on the ingredient lists and the marketing story, Juice Beauty products appear to be a bit over-priced for what you get. Of course, this is true of most facial products. Truthfully, a facial moisturizer is not much different than a moisturizer you might use on your hands.

Juice Beauty Moisturizer

At $36 for 2 ounces of product Juice Beauty moisturizer is only about 50% more expensive than a store brand like Olay or Neutragena. But is it 50% better? To figure this out we need to look at the ingredients and the marketing story.

Juice Beauty Ingredients

Here is the ingredient list for their nutrient moisturizer.

organic juices of vitis vinifera (white grape) juice, daucus carota sativa (carrot) juice & aloe barbadensis leaf juice, organic botanical extracts of calendula officinalis flower, matricaria chamomilla flower, tilia europea (linden) leaf & rose canina (rosehip) fruit, glycerin, organic plant oils of butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) & simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed, organic essential fatty acids of oenothera biennis (evening primrose), linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed & borago officinali (borage) seed, organic honey, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, organic algae extract, squalane, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), retinyl palmitate (vitamin A), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin C), panthenol (vitamin B5), hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, glyceryl stearate, potassium sorbate, phospholipids, beta carotene, palmitic acid, stearic acid, cetearyl glucoside, xanthan gum, disodium edta, sodium hydroxide, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, litsea cubeba (may chang), cananga odorata (ylang ylang), boswellia carterii (frankincense) & commiphora myrrha pure essential oils.

I have to give them credit, they sure pack a lot of ingredients into their formulas. But this is the first red flag. In fact, it could be a basic Beauty Brains belief.

“Beware of long ingredient lists”

You don’t need a lot of ingredients to make a good moisturizer so when you see a long list you can be fairly certain that the company is trying to trick you. Why have carrots, aloe, grape juice, rose hip, jojoba, linseed, ylang ylang and more? Is this a martini, a salad or a moisturizer?

Of the nearly 40 ingredients in the formula, only about 12 of them are actually making the product work. Those are the thickeners (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, xanthan gum), and the “fatty/oily/moisturizing” materials (palmitic acid, stearic acid, cetearyl glucoside, glycerin). Other cosmetic ingredients like sodium hydroxide, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol & disodium EDTA are for preservation and formula adjustment. All of these ingredients can be found in less expensive store brands.

The rest of the ingredients are marketing fluff to make you think the product is worth more.

Juice Beauty story

On their website, Juice Beauty has the quote “Buy it because it’s organic…use it because it works.” They then go on to explain why “organic” is better than “non-organic” in an interesting Question and Answer section. In reality, no one has ever shown proof that using “organic” ingredients in skin care products will make them work any better or be any safer for you. It’s one of those things that might feel better even though it’s not.

Brain’s Bottom line

Juice Beauty moisturizer contains ingredients proven to help moisturize your dried out skin. But these ingredients are the same ones you’ll find in less expensive store brands so you might want to try those products first. While Juice Beauty moisturizer is 50% more expensive, it’s not 50% better.

Daisy`s in hot water: “I`m 18 years old and I usually spend about 25 minutes taking a long, hot shower. Can all that hot water be bad for my skin?” The Right Brain responds:

Yes, Daisy, it`s true that long, hot showers are not particularly good for your skin. In fact, according to University of Wisconsin’s Health Center, poor bathing habits may be the most common cause of dry skin! At your age your skin is less prone to dryness, but if you`re concerned here are some tips that should help:

4 Tips To Prevent Showers and Baths From Drying Out Your Skin

1. Don`t Be A Super-Soaker

Over exposure to water can remove natural oils from your skin, leaving it drier than it should be. The experts say you should only soak between 5 and 15 minutes if you want avoid drying out your skin.

2. Take Care With the Temperature

Hot water removes more oil from your skin that cool water because the heat can help dissolve oil. Also, if the water is too hot it can burn you. That sounds foolishly obvious when I put it that way, so let me say it again in science-speak: The transient heat transfer behavior in multi-layer tissues subjected to hot water can be predicted by the Pennes’ Bio-heat Equation. That sounds a little more credible, doesn`t it? (Seriously though, a water heater set over 120 degrees can be hot enough to burn you.)

3. Avoid Terrible Towel Trouble

Gently pat skin dry with a towel immediately after you get out of the tub. Don`t towel off vigorously because that can abrade your skin and increase the rate of moisture loss.

4. Lock in with Lotion

Moisturize after you bathe to lock out dryness. Use a body oil or a skin lotion containing a high oil concentration and apply it as soon as possible since the water left in your skin from the shower evaporates in about 15 minutes.

Karen’s curious: There is a product called TNS Recovery Complex by Skin Medica that is made from (how can I say this tastefully?) a discarded piece of skin that some parents opt to have removed from their newborn baby boys before they leave the hospital. My dermatologist recommends and sells it. It has also been talked about enthusiastically on Oprah. Does this product really live up to the hype as an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle cream? It is VERY expensive!

The Left Brain replies:

According to the Skin Medica website, TNS contains an ingredient called NouriCel-MD which is their tradename for a combination of Natural Growth Factors, matrix proteins, and soluble collagen. You`ve seen proteins and collagen before but you may not know that Natural Growth Factors are a new category of compounds that act as chemical messengers to turn on and off a variety of cellular activities.

Theoretically, these compounds could have anti-aging properties when used in cosmetics. However, although products like TNS do contain growth factors, it looks like this technology is still in the experimental stages. According to Dr. Farris of the American Academy of Dermatologists “A multi-center double-blinded clinical study is currently underway to assess the anti-aging effects of human growth factors, and I expect that we’ll be hearing a lot about their potential in medical applications in the coming years.” Until we see study results to the contrary, we assume this product is more marketing hype than scientific breakthrough.

But where did the notion that TNS contains foreskin come from? As the AAD article points out, growth factors can be extracted from plants, cultured epidermal cells, placental cells, and human foreskins. Ah ha! Since growth factors CAN be derived from foreskin (as well as other sources) and since Skin Medica uses growth factors in their TNS product, you can see how someone could jump to the conclusion that TNS contains actual human foreskin.

In fact, according to Skin Medica, their Nouricel-MD ingredient was developed by a San Diego-based biotechnology company that patented a process for growing cell banks. So, until Skin Medica announces that their secret ingredient is really based on infant penile sheaths, our guess is that this is just another internet rumor. (Note to Skin Medica, we’ve already written your next ad slogan: Foreskin - For Skin!)

Update on 4/21/07: We did find a reference to an Oprah show where it was announced that this product contains an ingredient “engineered” from human foreskin cells. We’re looking into this to find out exactly what that means. Stay tuned…

Update on 4/22/07: Dr. Rob Oliver, a Friend of the Brains and author of the Plastic Surgery 101 blog, says it’s possible that TNS contains an ingredient that is DERIVED from foreskin cells. That doesn’t mean that Skin Medica is chopping up foreskins and putting them in their product. You can read his remarks in the comment section below. Thanks Dr. Rob!

If anyone in the Beauty Brains community has seen a direct reference to this product containing foreskin-derived growth factors, let us know and we’ll look into it.