LoonyLolipop asks…Many news articles are gushing about the revolutionary development of sunscreen supplements, specifically SunPill and Heliocare. These products would be a wonderful alternative to topical sunscreens because I am very allergic to oxybenzone and avenobenzene, two common ingredients in over-the-counter topical sun blocks. However, no article has mentioned whether this pill offers broad spectrum protection. It seems like I can get more effective and less expensive sun protection by wearing a hat and drinking green tea. I admit that I am a cynical person and can be fairly stubborn. Since you have more access and knowledge about scientific breakthroughs, are these sunscreen supplements over-hyped products? Or is there a sizable benefit that warrants the expensive price?

Left Brain enlightens…
I agree that sunscreen pills would be a great invention. Slathering on sunscreen lotions multiple times a day can be a bit of a pain. Of course, using sunscreen is one of the most important things you can do to prevent skin cancer and keep you skin looking young and healthy.

Sunscreen pills

There are a few different options for sunscreen pills. These include the following

Heliocare – Heliocare contains antioxidants derived from a natural fern (Polypodium leucotomos). These antioxidants are supposed to reduce skin-damaging free radicals which could theoretically have benefits to skin elasticity, reduce sun damage and increase tolerance to the sun. There is some evidence that the natural fern antioxidants taken orally can decrease UV damage. However, the study was pretty small (9 people) so more work needs to be done.

Verdict – There is some evidence that Heliocare supplements work.

SunPill – Sunpill contains a variety of antioxidants including Polypodium leucotomos extract, Green tea extract, pomegranate, etc. Again, these have some theoretical support but the studies have all been small and should only be considered preliminary.

Verdict – There is some evidence SunPills work and they are less expensive than Heliocare.

Murad Pomphenol Sunguard – This product contains a high level of pomegranate extract and some studies like this one suggest that it can help inhibit sun damage pigmentation.

Verdict – There is some evidence that Murad is somewhat effective.

Potential Problems with Sunscreen Pills

While there is some evidence that these products can work, there are a couple of problems with them.

The first issue with these sunscreen pills is that none of them claim to be a replacement for topically applied sunscreens. So, if you still have to apply sunscreen, what’s the point of taking an expensive supplement? At over $50 for 60 pills one has to wonder if it’s really worth it.

The next issue is that it’s unclear how long the product will work. With a topical sunscreen you know approximately how long it will last and when you need to reapply. With these supplements their effectiveness will depend on how your digestive system works. And this will be significantly different from person to person.

Perhaps the most significant problem with these products is that they are not regulated by the FDA, so you don’t even know if they contain the ingredients they claim to have. I’m always skeptical of supplements.

Beauty Brains bottom line

While sunscreen pills have some science suggesting they work, they are not a replacement for topical sunscreens. Add to that the price and they hardly seem worth the expense. I’d wait until the price comes down and products become more effective.

Ally asks…I have got a face cream as a gift and it’s day defence cream for normal/combination skin with UV filter. What strength that UV filter is or whether it’s UVA+UVB protection is not mentioned. I was reading through ingredients list and couldn’t find any evidence of UV protection, but maybe my knowledge is just not deep enough. It goes like this: ionized water, glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, vegetable oil, ceteareth-20, capric and capronic acid triglycerides, decapric ether, perfume oil, dimethicone, plantain extract, primrose extract, blueberry extract, perfume composition, methylparaben, propylparaben, silver ions. This list was translated by myself with help of Google. What do you think? It it any good for combination skin? The vegetable oil especially worries me as this is a product designed to deal with oily t-zone.

The Left Brain responds:

There is nothing on the list that is obviously a UV filter. Some blends of dimethicone may be sold as UV filters but this list doesn’t seem to have one. Maybe they are counting the blueberry extract or primrose extract as UV filters. The product doesn’t seem like a great face cream especially with all the different oils it contains. But it all depends on how the product is formulated. You could make a nice product with those ingredients but it would be difficult. Based on the ingredient list, my guess is that it probably isn’t the best thing to use for combination skin.

Kelly’s question…I wanted to see if you might have an answer for me about sunscreen and how to apply it. Forever, I have been told that you apply your products first – eye cream, serums, moisturizer and then your sunscreen is the last step before your makeup. Yesterday, on another well respected blog, Dr. Schultz from Derm TV, suggested that your sunscreen should go on first so it is closest to the skin and can be effective. He suggests that you skip serums in the morning, as they aren’t likely to work as intended. He also suggested that you apply products from the thinnest to the heaviest. Protecting my skin from the sun is my primary concern and if I am not using the products correctly or making them ineffective, I want to know the right way!

The Left Brain’s response:

You raise some interesting questions and the truth is this question is one for which science hasn’t determined an answer. Good arguments could be made for both methods of application. Until there is a definitive study, there is no known “right” answer. But take heart, there is not really a “wrong” answer either.  Here is what the Brains conclude (with all due respect to the doctor) about these issues.

Sunscreen savvy

For physical blocking sunscreens (minerals) like Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide, it doesn’t matter. They’ll work just the same whether it’s put on first or last. In this case, we recommend putting it on after your moisturizer just so the sunscreen doesn’t inhibit the penetrating ability of the moisturizer (or other treatment).

Chemical sunscreens (e.g. Oxycinnamate) are a bit different because the raw materials in the formulas can have an impact on the final SPF rating. That means if you use apply it after your moisturizer, you may reduce the SPF efficacy. So, Zinc & Titanium on last, all other sunscreens on first. Of course, you could actually solve the entire problem by using a moisturizer that contains sunscreen.

Serum uncertainty

As for the question about the serums… again, the science hasn’t been done but there is a good rationale for using them at night rather than in the morning. Many of the active ingredients are UV sensitive so they will most likely be less effective if exposed to the sun. Wearing eye products at night prevents this problem.

What’s your face cream routine? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Mid Brain reports:

We’ve blogged before about the safety of tanning and the controversy surged ahead this week with the announcement by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) that elevated the risk of sunbeds from “probably carcinogenic” to “carcinogenic to humans.” Speculation is running rampant: Will this spell the end of the tanning bed industry as we know it? Will cosmetic companies begin a mad rush for new higher SPF products to please fearful consumers? Or, will the news inspire a new generation of pale anti-tan beauties?

Damned if you tan, damned if you don’t

No one knows for sure, but it seems likely that being tan will remain a beauty goal for many consumers despite the risks.  Further complicating the matter is the consumer buzz regarding the role sun exposure plays in vitamin D production and how increased sunscreen use could lead to a vitamin D deficiency. The article cites a recent survey by Neutrogena that says a third of Americans are ‘somewhat concerned’ that sunblocks will lead to vitamin D deficiency.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

It will be interesting to see how scientific data will influence how this controversy plays out. We’ll keep you posted as events unfold. In the meantime, avoid excess sun exposure. Or not.

Meg’s Pondering Sun Protection…I hear a lot about using vitamin C and antioxidants in addition to a high PPD sunscreen to prevent sun damage and aging. Is there truth to this, or is this just something the cosmetics companies invented?

The Right Brain’s reply:
Actually, there is some solid research that indicates antixoidant vitamins can improve sunscreen SPF.

Vitamin boost

We’ve known for a long time that sun protection is one of the best things you can do for your skin. But in the last several years, researchers at the North Carolina Biotechnology Center have also demonstrated that
vitamin C combined with UVB sunscreen can give additive protection against sunburn. Their study suggests that a vitamin C and E combination is optimal. Does this mean you should run out and look for sunscreens that have vitamins on the label? Not really – the vitamins have to be present in the right concentations and must be properly stabilized before they have a beneficial effect. But if we see any super-vitamin sunscreens we’ll be sure to blog about them!

By the way, kudos to Meg for using the term PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening), which is one of the proposed methods for measuring sun exposure in humans.

What do YOU think? Do you use sunscreen as often as you should? Do you have a favorite brand? Leave a comment and share your sun tips with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.