Mid Brain reports:

We’ve blogged before about the safety of tanning and the controversy surged ahead this week with the announcement by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) that elevated the risk of sunbeds from “probably carcinogenic” to “carcinogenic to humans.” Speculation is running rampant: Will this spell the end of the tanning bed industry as we know it? Will cosmetic companies begin a mad rush for new higher SPF products to please fearful consumers? Or, will the news inspire a new generation of pale anti-tan beauties?

Damned if you tan, damned if you don’t

No one knows for sure, but it seems likely that being tan will remain a beauty goal for many consumers despite the risks.  Further complicating the matter is the consumer buzz regarding the role sun exposure plays in vitamin D production and how increased sunscreen use could lead to a vitamin D deficiency. The article cites a recent survey by Neutrogena that says a third of Americans are ‘somewhat concerned’ that sunblocks will lead to vitamin D deficiency.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

It will be interesting to see how scientific data will influence how this controversy plays out. We’ll keep you posted as events unfold. In the meantime, avoid excess sun exposure. Or not.

Meg’s Pondering Sun Protection…I hear a lot about using vitamin C and antioxidants in addition to a high PPD sunscreen to prevent sun damage and aging. Is there truth to this, or is this just something the cosmetics companies invented?

The Right Brain’s reply:
Actually, there is some solid research that indicates antixoidant vitamins can improve sunscreen SPF.

Vitamin boost

We’ve known for a long time that sun protection is one of the best things you can do for your skin. But in the last several years, researchers at the North Carolina Biotechnology Center have also demonstrated that
vitamin C combined with UVB sunscreen can give additive protection against sunburn. Their study suggests that a vitamin C and E combination is optimal. Does this mean you should run out and look for sunscreens that have vitamins on the label? Not really – the vitamins have to be present in the right concentations and must be properly stabilized before they have a beneficial effect. But if we see any super-vitamin sunscreens we’ll be sure to blog about them!

By the way, kudos to Meg for using the term PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening), which is one of the proposed methods for measuring sun exposure in humans.

What do YOU think? Do you use sunscreen as often as you should? Do you have a favorite brand? Leave a comment and share your sun tips with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Mid Brain reports:

As the summer comes into full swing (at least for the Northern Hemisphere) you’ll undoubtedly be shedding those clothes and heading outside to get that soft, golden tan you richly desire. But is that bronzed look the only thing drawing you under those vibrant summer rays? Well, at least a couple of research groups are suggesting that there might be something more going on.

Tanning addiction

Last summer scientists at the University of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston demonstrated that repetitive sun exposure (and tanning bed exposure) may be a kind of addiction. In this study, researchers interviewed frequent tanners using a modified questionnaire tool typically designed to diagnose drug or alcohol addiction. They found surprising similarities between the two groups.

This finding is interesting but we here at The Beauty Brains don’t put much stock in single studies, especially ones based on psychological data. The problem with this type of data is that it is so variable from person to person. Additionally, the researchers could offer no evidence as to why people would be addicted to tanning.

But now, another group may have just found a possible, scientific cause. Researchers at Wake Forest University Baptist Medical Center conducted this study that looked at the feel-good effects of UV exposure. They found that some people actually experienced withdrawal symptoms when they were deprived of the UV exposure.

High on SPF lotion

The reason suggested is that UV exposure releases endorphins in your body which makes you feel really good. It’s the same chemical responsible for the “runner’s high” that some long distance runners experience.

Unfortunately, excessive UV exposure is bad for you causing all sorts of maladies such as wrinkling, dry skin, age spots, and skin cancer. If you find you have a sun tan addiction, start weaning yourself off now. Limit your sun exposure and by all means wear a good SPF lotion. To get that great tan look consider using one of the many sunless tanners out there. They work much better than they use to.

Kim Ray’s question… I was wondering if mixing equal parts of sunscreen with lotion would yield the same benefit as applying both separately.  I want the higher SPF of actual sunscreen and the stronger moisturizer of the lotion. It is really hard to find a product that delivers on both.

The Right Brain responds:

We appreciate how tough it is to find SPF lotions that strike the right balance of moisturization and protection but we don’t recommend that you mix sunscreens with lotion. Here’s why…

Two reasons not to mix SPF lotion

First, as we pointed out in our post on The Wrong Way to Apply Sunscreen, certain ingredients that are commonly used in skin care products can interfere with the way UV absorbers deposit/spread on the skin. The last thing you want to do is compromise the performance of the active ingredient in a sunscreen. Not only are you wasting money but more importantly you’re increasing your risk of sunburn or worse!

Second, as Vananners pointed out in our Forum, if you mix an SPF lotion with a non-sunscreen product you’re essentially diluting the sunscreen. So if you mix your products 50/50 you’d have to use twice as much of the mixture to get the same protective effect. And that’s going to make your skin greasy feeling.

The Beauty Brains  bottom line

We’d recommend you keep looking for a sunscreen that provides the right level of moisture for you. Does anyone out there in the Beauty Brains community have any suggestions for Kim Ray?

Brenda is bemused….Do products that claim to reduce shiny skin oiliness really work? I was thinking of buying Murad Oil Control but I don’t want to get scammed. Can the Beauty Brains please enlighten me?

The Right Brain replies:

We always encourage the Beauty Brains community to be on skeptical alert for products that sound too good to be true, so we’d be glad to try to shine some light on the shine control claims of Murad.

Oil Control Claims

This product is a lotion that claims to provide sun protection and oil control. The sun protection part is easy: it contains 3 different FDA approved sunscreens so there’s no issue there. Understanding oil control is a bit more slippery.

According to Murad’s website, Oil-Control Mattifier SPF 15 “reduces shine on contact and keeps skin free of excess oil by up to 78% for 8 hours. Oil-Control Complex helps regulate oil production while preserving moisture to provide a long-lasting matte finish.”  That’s a pretty impressive claim, but is there any science behind this so called oil control complex?

Active ingredients

Three of the ingredients in Murad Oil Control (Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract), comprise a complex sold by the Centerchem company called “Regu-Seb.”  According to their website Regu-seb is made of  “polyphenolrich fractions from the fruits of the North American saw palmetto and South American sesame seeds in a Moroccan argan oil base. Its perfectly balanced polyphenol formula, consisting mostly of lignans and phytosterols, helps to control and reduce sebum production, especially in the T-zone area of the face.”  Centerchem cites  two research studies. The first is an in vitro study done on reconstructed epidermis that shows a dose-response-dependent inhibition of dihydrotestosteron (DHT) synthesis by Regu-Seb. Results showed that at 1% the complex could inhibit DHT synthesis 35% vs. control.  (DHT is a chemical that’s involved in oil production in skin.) The second study was done in vivo and showed that at 5% concentration, a cream with 5% of the complex reduced  the severity of seborrheic skin condition by 46% (after 30 and 90 days.) If this data is valid, there does appear to be some basis for this complex reducing oil production.  It does make me wonder about the Moroccan oil too.

Does Murad Oil Control really work?

The fact that the supplier has data showing the complex has some effect between 1% and 5% is very encouraging but it isn’t conclusive proof of efficacy. We have no way of knowing the concentration of Regu-seb in the Murad product and we don’t know how the Murad base might effect the efficacy of the complex. But there does appear to be some science behind this proposition so we’d give Murad Oil Control a rating of:

3 Brains

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Unlike products that make “magic” claims like erasing deep wrinkles, Murad Oil Control Mattifier claims seem to have some basis in science considering the data we’ve been able to find. If you have an oily skin problem it may be worth a try.

The Beauty Brains Product Rating Scale

No Brainer
A dumb-ass ridiculous product making crazy claims without any scientific basis. Don’t waste your money.

1 Brain
We can’t find enough information from the company or in the scientific literature to indicate this product might be any better/different or not. Try at your own risk, and if you do happen to come across any legitimate technical data, let us know and we’ll blog about it.

2 Brains
A nice, basic product but with nothing to indicate it does anything special. If you can afford it, try it and you might like it. But don’t expect any extraordinary results.

3 Brains
A product making extraordinary claims which at least appear to be grounded in real science.  May be worth trying but make sure you don’t spend too much.