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Does sunscreen make you Vitamin D deficient?

Angela asks…My husband recently read an article (from Australia, but I can’t remember the source now) claiming that we shouldn’t be using sunscreens. I think the basis of the article was that many people are vitamin D deficient, and that applying sunscreen prevents the production of vitamin D. It suggested that the risk of skin cancer was low compared to the vast benefits of vitamin D. In all your experience/ readings, is there any truth to that or can I continue preaching the virtues of sunscreen to my outdoor loving hubbie? And if I were to stop using all sunscreen, wouldn’t I look like an old leather shoe as I age?

The Beauty Brains respond:

Hi Angela. Please tell your husband that you should NOT stop using sunscreens. The idea that sunscreens cause vitamin D deficiency is a myth.

What’s the deal with vitamin D?

There are several “D” vitamins. The two most important are vitamin D2 (cholecalciferol) and Vitamin D3 (ergocalciferol). These control absorption of important minerals (such as iron, magnesium and zinc) in our intestines. Without sufficient Vitamin D our bodies don’t process these minerals properly which decreases the hardness of our bones (a condition called rickets or osteomalacia.) Vitamin D deficiency can also lead to a compromised immune system. Some cancers, such as prostate, colon and breast, have even been linked to a lack of vitamin D.

Vitamin D can be obtained through diet or it can be produced by our bodies, with exposure to adequate sunlight. Since sunscreens prevent sunlight from interacting with our skin, it’s not surprising that this notion that they can impair our ability to product Vitamin D has been raised. Let’s review the key points of this controversy.

Myth: People who live in sunny climates experience fewer deaths from prostate, colon and breast cancers. 

Fact: Two doctors from the Department of Dermatology at Boston University School of Medicine have analyzed the studies which claim to link these cancers with sun exposure. Their analysis shows these studies to be of “variable quality” because they may be confounded by other factors including additional climatic factors variations in population genetics, diet and lifestyle. They concluded that these studies “cannot establish that solar exposure decreases incidence or mortality from these cancers.” Here’s a link if you’d like to read all the details: http://www.skincancer.org/healthy-lifestyle/vitamin-d/the-d-dilemma

Myth: The risk of vitamin D deficiency is greater than the risk of skin cancer

Fact: Over-exposure to UV radiation is strongly linked to skin cancer through a combination of animal and human population studies (as well as DNA research). There are than 1.3 million new annual cases diagnosed in the U.S., most of which can be attributed to sun exposure. In addition, UV radiation is a major cause of photo-aging and contributes to wrinkles, saggy skin, brown spots, and the “old leather shoe” look that Angela is rightfully worried about. The dangers of sun exposure outweigh the concerns about vitamin D deficiency.

Myth: The best way to prevent vitamin D deficiency is to get 5-10 minutes of unprotected sun exposure

Fact: The authors of the above mentioned study point out alternative ways to boost vitamin D levels that do not require sun exposure. For example, you can eat more foods that are naturally rich in vitamin D (like salmon); you can drink beverages that are fortified with vitamin D (like milk or orange juice); or you can take multivitamins which contain 600 units of vitamin D. These alternatives are easy and much safer for your skin.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

The scientific consensus is that it’s important to wear sunscreen to reduce your risk of skin cancer. It’s also important to eat a healthy diet to ensure an adequate supply of vitamin D. Those two health goals are NOT mutually exclusive.  So tell your outdoor-loving hubby to suit up (with sunscreen) before he goes outside.

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It’s our fabulous 44th anniversary episode!

You can win a Beauty Brains T-shirt if you’re the first to correctly guess the answer to our “Name that Noise” game. Just click the link to listen to the show and if you know the answer, leave a comment on this post. The first correct answer wins a “Be Brainy About Your Beauty” shirt.

Click below to play Episode 44 or click “download” to save the MP3 file to your computer.

Plus you get SO much more…

  • Learn why 44 is our milestone instead of 50. (You’ll be surprised at Perry’s explanation!)
  • The secret of the “lost” episodes (with Sarah Bellum!)
  • A tribute to YOU, the Beauty Brains community. (Listen for your own voice!)
  • The debut of 10 brand new catch phrases (in case you don’t like “Be brainy about your beauty.”)
  • Beauty Brains trivia! (‘Nuff said)
  •  AND the world premier of the amazingly clever (and totally original) Beauty Brains Theme Song! (Click below if you want to watch Perry perform the song live.)

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Would you use a skin gun to get rid of wrinkles?

Here is an amazing new technology that could represent a new way to treat skin wrinkles.  It is being tested for use for treating skin burns but I could see how this could be adapted to creating youthful skin for people who are dissatisfied with their wrinkles.  Maybe in the future rather than getting face lifts, people will just be getting their own skin stem cells sprayed onto their face.

It’s a very cool technology.  The inventor says it’s like paint spraying.  They take the patient’s own stem cells and spray it onto the arm.  The whole procedure takes only 90 minutes.  Amazing.

I wonder how long it will take for this to be tested for cosmetic procedures.

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Beauty Science News – August 17

Here are some of our favorite beauty science news stories from the past week…

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Split end menders that really work

If you have a problem with split ends, here are a few products that REALLY work.

We continue to get a lot of comments on our post about the split end mending technology known as PEC or PolyElectrolyte Complex. It works from inside the split to pull it back together and, best of all, it works from a rinse out product. It’s not a permanent fix but it does last through several shampoos and it works better than any other product we’ve ever seen.

If you have a problem with splits you might want to try one of these featured products. If you shop using the Beauty Brains link you’ll be helping to support us. Perry and I really appreciate it!

 

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Makeup fit for a prize fight – vintage cosmetic video

In the 1950s it was common for commercials to be part of the program which they sponsored. Here’s an example of Hazel Bishop makeup appearing on a game show.


The most compelling aspect of the ad is the “before and after” demo featuring Dorothy Smith of Chicago IL. Poor Dorothy looks like she just went 3 rounds in the ring with the heavy weight boxing champ of the world. If this concealor can make Dorothy look this good, just think what it’ll do for YOUR black eye.

Here’s the Beauty Science bit…

Ms. Bishop’s makeup was available in oily and dry skin variants and it’s interesting that even back in the mid ’50’s companies were beginning to differentiate by skin type. It would be years before the “oil free” craze caught on. By then products would contain silicones and emollient esters rather than traditional oils like mineral and plant oils.

My only regret is that the clip ended before we learned the secret behind Dad’s “special pair of trousers.”

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Anonymous asks…My partner both uses and (attempts to) distribute Nu Skin/Pharmanex/Epoch/LifePak products. I don’t know how he started but he says it was related to his contact dermatitis on his hands and needing better moisturizer. The products are 5x the price of high street products, and they make a lot of outlandish claims. I think he’s effectively wasting his money in a huge way and also possibly harming himself. He buys -every- product of theirs, not just ones for hand moisturizing as he originally started with.  How can I convince him he’s not using miracle products like he thinks he is and that they are not worth 5x the price of other products? 

The Beauty Brains respond:

Perry and I have discussed your problem and it’s not an easy one to solve. If your partner is as set in his ways as you make it sound then there’s probably little you can do to change his opinion. But there is one little test you can do to assess his open mindedness and to establish a possible plan of action. Just ask him the following question:

“What would it take to convince you to change your mind about these products?”

His answer will probably fall into one of four categories and then you can respond accordingly. (I’m paraphrasing his potential responses, of course.)

Answer 1: “Nothing will ever change my mind.”

Your action: Now you know that you’re just wasting your breath. If he’s that closed minded then it’s highly unlikely that anything you say or do will get him to change his opinion.

Answer 2: “I need to see scientific research that has tested these products against others.”

Your action: This answer gives something you can sink your teeth into. To start, you two can agree on one or two products to evaluate. Then, based on a review of the ingredients, you can look at the scientific literature to see what is known about this kind of product. (Once you agree on the specifics from him, we’d be glad to help with this part.)

Answer 3: “I need to see for myself that there’s really no difference between these products and others.”

Your action: If he’s open minded in this regard, we can help you set up an experiment where he blindly evaluates one of his products compared to another brand. (It may not be possible to completely blind him to which product is which but you can make it hard for him to know which is which. If he’s true to his word then he’ll have to change his mind if he can’t tell a difference between the two.

Answer 4: “I need to hear from other people who have used these products and decided that they’re not worth it.”

Your action: You may be able to find product reviews or a forum discussion featuring input from former users of his brands. This one may be more of a long shot but if he hears the truth from other people, instead of just you, maybe he’ll be convinced.

I hope this helps. Like I said, this is going to be tough! But depending on this answer to “The Question” we’d be glad to help you take further steps to convince him. Let us know how it turns out!

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Is L’Oreal Age Perfect Cell Renewal Cream old fashioned?

PMA is puzzled…L’oréal has just lanched this night cream: Age Perfect Cell Renewal Cream. As usual Beautypedia “said” a lot of bad things against the product: “Dated mineral oil and wax based formula.” Just because beeswax is old it’s bad then? I’ve found the best rated creams on the Internet among consumers are wax based…

The Beauty Brains respond: 

Randy covered this already in our Forum but I think his answer bears repeating.

Is beeswax bad?

I don’t know exactly what Paula means when she says the formula is “dated” but my guess is that she’s referring to the aesthetics of the formula and not necessarily saying it’s “bad.” That’s because beeswax, while it does form a good emulsion, can make a formula hard to speed. It can feel “draggy” on skin. There are plenty of newer ingredients (esters, etc) which provide a similar function but with more slip. So maybe that’s her issue.

As far as mineral oil is concerned, we know that MANY people consider it to be an outdated ingredient which clogs pores, etc etc even though its a highly effective ingredient. (Albeit one that can feel greasy.) If you want to refute those allegations you can read our post on the top 5 myths about mineral oil.

The bigger concern (and here we agree with Paula) is that the product doesn’t seem to contain any bona fide anti-aging ingredients. Rather, it appears to be little more than a moisturizer which isn’t a very good value considering it costs $25 for 1.7 ounces!

L’Oreal Age Perfect Cell Renewal Cream ingredients

Aqua/Water, Paraffinum Liquidum/Mineral Oil, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Cera Alba/Beeswax, Sorbitan Tristearate, Mel/Honey, Stearyl Alcohol, Cera Microcristallina/Microcrystalline Wax, Paraffin, Calcium Pantothenate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Neohesperidin Dihydrochalcone, Isohexadecane, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Myristyl Alcohol, Vigna Aconitifolia/Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Cicer Seed Extract, Hydroxyapatite, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Acrylonitrile/Methyl Methacrylate/Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer, Octyldodecanol, Oryzanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Ci 14700/Red 4, Ci 19140/Yellow 5, Linalool, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Parfum/Fragrance.

 

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How do hair straightening products work? Are they safe? How long do they last?

Click below to play Episode 43 or click “download” to save the MP3 file to your computer.

Show notes

Silicones and ice cream cones

In a clever summer time, non-beauty science twist I quiz Randy about ice cream cones. Listed to the show and test your conical trivia knowledge.

Question of the week: How do keratin hair smoothers work?

Jennifer asks… Will they help my daughter’s hair? Are they bad for hair, I don’t understand how they work. Will they prevent frizz in high humidity Florida weather?

What makes hair curly?

Hair is made of proteins which are long chain molecules. The shape of hair is determined by the chemical bonds that connect these chains together.  There are hydrogen bonds and salt bridges which are weak and easily formed and broken. There are also disulfide bonds which are difficult to form and to break.

To visualize how these bonds shape hair, think of a ladder. The sides of a ladder are two different protein chains and the rungs that connect them are like disulfide bonds.  In straight hair the rungs hold the sides rigid and perpendicular. The first bond on the left side is connect to the first bond on the right side and so on. But what if you sawed through those ladder rungs? Then you could freely move the two sides of the ladder. You could twist the sides move them up or down, shift them however you like.  Then if you glued those rungs back together, you would have changed the shape of the ladder. Now instead of the first bond on the left linked to first bond on the right maybe you’ve moved the sides such that the first bond on left is linked to the second or third bond on the right. That gives the ladder a twisted shape. It’s kind of like turning a straight ladder into a spiral staircase. Straight hair is like the ladder, curly hair is like the spiral staircase.  Now let’s talk about three kinds of hair straightening products and how they work.

Surface treatment products (No disulfide bond changes)

First of all – they DON’T work because of keratin. Keratin is the type of protein that hair is made of but just adding keratin to hair doesn’t cause it to change from straight to curly. It’s more accurate to think of these as treatments that smooth keratin rather than as products that smooth with keratin.

Remember these disulfide bonds are NOT easy to change so there’s an inherent tradeoff when you straighten your hair. The more complete and long lasting the straightness, the more damage to your hair. It’s a trade off.

Products that only coat the hair do not  break or reform bonds at all.  These are least effective but also least damaging. They are temporary and may last through a few shampoos depending on the formula. With current technology, the best you can do is a hair spray resin coating that is unneutralized which means its very hard to wash off.

Bond breaking products

These are the most effective but also the most damaging because they break and reforms the most bonds.  They are permanent until hair grows out. (Examples: Relaxing hair with sodium hydroxide  or perming hair with Ammonium thioglycolate or Bisulfite

Cross-linking free bonds

This is the class that most so called keratin smoothing treatments fall into. They are effective and only cause minimal to moderate damage. They work by reforming a percentage of free bonds (and reducing a few bonds as well.). They are semi-Permanent because not all bonds are affected and the reformed bonds can break again.  The performance depends on degree of curliness of hair. Examples include the following:

  • Formaldehyde (methylene glycol)
  • Oxoacetamide/Oxoacetic acid/Glyoxylic acid (behaves like formaldehyde)
  • Cysteine and Ethanolamine or cysteamine hydrochloride

Why does humidity make hair frizzy?

The inner region of hair, the cortex, consists of two different types of protein.  One type is more hydrophilic than the other which means it absorbs water more easily. So when hair is exposed to high humidity, one region absorbs more water than the other which causes the hair fiber to swell unevenly. This uneven swelling twists the hair fiber and causes it to frizz. The degree of frizz depends on several factors: The porosity of your hair, the mixture of the different protein regions, and the strength and completeness of the bonds in the hair.

How can you fight humidity? Water proof hair with a silicone, reconfigure bonds with reactive hair products, and/or lock hair in place with a ton of styling products.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Keratin smoothers don’t really work by adding keratin. Instead they work by either coating the hair, cross-linking some of the internal bonds, or breaking and reforming a bunch of bonds. By looking at the claims and ingredients you can figure out which is which and you can also pick the best product to keep your hair frizz free.

LIL buy it now button

Buy your copy of It’s OK to Have Lead in Your Lipstick to learn more about:

  • Clever lies that the beauty companies tell you.
  • The straight scoop of which beauty myths are true and which are just urban legends.
  • Which ingredients are really scary and which ones are just scaremongering by the media to incite an irrational fear of chemicals.
  • How to tell the difference between the products that are really green and the ones that are just trying to get more of your hard earned money by labeling them “natural” or “organic.

Click here for all the The Beauty Brains podcasts.

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Is Sleep Cream a good idea?

As a cosmetic chemist it’s always a good idea to come up with new ideas even if you aren’t working in a particular area at the moment.  We spend a lot of time on dull rehashings of previously created formulas, like just changing the fragrance or color or tweaking a surfactant.  It’s rare that we get to make a truly new formulation. skin cream sleep antiagingBut that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t think of new ideas and try them out.

Philosophy on Ideas

Here’s an example of a new idea which you can feel free to steal or make yourself.  I am a firm believer in the idea that no one owns an idea and that if you have a good one it is your obligation to share it with the universe.  If someone else is able to make it happen when you couldn’t, well, at least the idea became something which helps the rest of the world.  It saddens me to think of all the great ideas that people took with them to their graves just because they were afraid someone would steal their idea.  No one is going to steal your idea.  They are too in love with their own ideas.

Skin Cream and Sleep

Alright, in the spirit of sharing ideas here’s one that I thought about after reading this research done by Estee Lauder regarding skin aging and sleep.  Create a overnight skin lotion that helps people sleep better.  You could add different aromas which impact sleep.  Partnering with the Smell and Taste Institute might help in identifying these odor.  You could also make a warming sensation which typically is associated with sleep.  Then the rest of the product marketing could all be geared towards encouraging sleep.  Point to the skin aging and sleep studies and viola!  You’ve got a niche anti-aging overnight cream.

Of course, as with nearly all ideas in the cosmetic world, someone has already thought of it as you can see by the picture in this post.  However, just because someone has already done an idea doesn’t mean that they’ve done a good job of it.  That just means it’s an idea that is good enough to launch.  People keep opening new restaurant even though there are thousands already out there right?  You need to take the idea and make it your own.  Make the execution of the idea special.  Do a better job with the idea than the people who have already done it.

Ideas don’t have to be unique but idea execution does.

In truth, I’m not sure I’m buying the sleep / aging skin link.  There are just so many variables and the rating of “good sleep” versus “bad sleep” seems pretty arbitrary to me.  And they only tested 60 people in their study.  It hardly seems convincing to scientist Perry.  But cosmetic product marketer Perry is convinced!  And most people who consume cosmetics are more like the latter character.

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