The Beauty Brains

Diane dares to ask: I was wondering how effective these female enhancement creams really are. I looked at ingredients on 2 brands (Venus Touch and Orexia) and it looks like the only thing that might cause some sensations are the peppermint oil or menthol. What do you think?

Sarah Bellum says:
I’ve never had the need for these products so I’ve never paid much attention to them before. But, wow, once you starting looking, they’re everywhere! Some of them look like they use a simple “tingling” agent, like menthol, to get the job done. Others have different “active” ingredients that they claim will take you to “the promised land.” In either case, real test data for these products is tough to find. So after talking it over with the other lobes of the Beauty Brains, the Right Brain and I put together this list rating these products according to the following criteria:

Active ingredients: What’s in the product that gives it a sexual sizzle?

[Note: As you'll see when you read this list, many of these products are based on L-Argenine an amino acid that has been linked to the production of nitric oxide, a chemical that helps promote sensation down-you-know-where. However, these studies were done on L-Argenine in the blood, not from a topical application like these products provide. Therefore, we're skeptical. Other ingredients like menthol and niacin cause a mild irritation that creates a tingling sensation.]

Proof: What kind of data does the company present to back up their claims?

Cost: Is the product a big rip off or little rip off?

Ok, having said all that, let’s take a look at the top 10 female enhancement creams:

1. Alura

Active Ingredients: L-arginine, Menthol

Cost: $15 for 10 applications ($1.50 per use)

Proof: None provided

Worth trying? Nope. This one’s almost double the price of some of the others and doesn’t seem to offer any added benefit.

2. Climatique

Active ingredients: L-Arginine, Niacin, and Menthol. We’ve talked about L-arg and Menthol above. Niacin can provide a topical sensation.

Cost: $24.95 for 20 to 30 uses. (About $1.00 per use)

Proof: According to the website: “Original Climatique was evaluated by the research department of world famous Institute for Advanced Study of Human Sexuality. Focus groups, clinicians and sexual scientists agreed with the women of all ages that Original Climatique deserved an unqualified recommendation for use as a sexual enhancer and a pleasure product.”

Worth trying? Hard to tell. I’m not sure what this endorsement means and the niacin scares me a bit – maybe too much sensation if you know what I mean

3. Orexia

Active ingredient: menthol

Proof: None.

Cost: $49 per jar of unknown size

Worth trying? No way am I paying 50 bucks for menthol!

4. Senstra

Active ingredient: L-Argenine

Proof: Same as #1 and 2 above.

Cost: $27.95 for 2 oz.

Worth trying? Nothing compelling here. Keep scrolling.

5. Vazoplex

Active ingredient: They won’t tell us! There’s nothing on the website that describes what’s actually in the product. A huge red flag!

Proof: You’re kidding, right? They won’t even say what’s in it!

Cost: $19.00 for a month supply. How many times would YOU use it in a month???

Worth trying? Forget it!

6. V Cream

Active ingredient: L-argenine, menthol, Damiana, Maca, Ginseng, Ginkgo Biloba.

Proof: None.

Cost: $44.00 per jar of unknown size.

Worth trying? More of the same.

7. Venus Touch

Active ingredient: Arginine and Ornithine, more nitric acid stimulation via amino acids.

Proof: Nothing substantial.

Cost: $19.95 for 20 to 30 uses (<$1.00 per use)

Worth trying? I’ll pass.

8. Vigel

Active ingredient: L-Arginine

Proof: There are references to clinical studies on L-Arginine but they don’t indicate how the L-Arginine was applied. Could have been ingested? Can’t tell for sure.

Cost: $24.95 per bottle (approx. 30 applications) (< $1.00 per use)

Worth trying? Well, at least it’s cheap!

9. Vigorelle

Active ingredients: Damiana Leaf, Suma Root, Motherwort, Wild Yam, Ginkgo Biloba, Peppermint Leaf. (Peppermint has an effect similar to menthol.)Cost: $59.95 for 30 applications ($2 per use)

Proof: None.

Cost: $59.95 for 2 ounces

Worth trying? No thanks, due to lack of proof and high price.

10. Zestra

Active Ingredients: Borage Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Coleus Extract, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and natural fragrance.

Proof: Surprisingly, this is the only product that claims to NOT work through irritation. Unlike niacin and menthol, Zestra uses a different mechanism. Here’s what they say about their study results: “The Phase 3-type study evaluated the efficacy and safety of Zestra(R), compared to placebo oil in 256 women diagnosed with acquired mixed interest/desire/arousal/orgasm disorders in conditions of home use in conjunction with sexual activities. “Zestra was well-tolerated, and no serious adverse events (SAEs) were associated with study participants’ use of the product,” David M. Ferguson, PhD, MD, FACCP, the study’s clinical director, said.”

Cost: $17 for 9 uses ($1.80 per use)

Worth trying? Could be. Zestra is a bit more expensive per use, but it’s the only product that seems even remotely legitimate in my opinion. I’d bet my money on this one.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

I’m not convinced there’s substantial research showing ANY of these really do anything beyond providing some surface tingling. But if you really want to try one, it looks like Zestra could be the best of the bunch.

What do YOU think? Have you tried any of these? Would you? If you would, would you tell anyone? Let’s find out! Leave a comment and share your salacious stories with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Ava asks: I was hoping that you could settle something for us, being scientifically-inclined and all. I recently participated in a heated discussion about hydrogen peroxide being converted into bioavailable oxygen when in a cream, as claimed by Karin Herzog skincare. Not only does this seem impossible to me (and in fact very harmful in the long run to the skin barrier), but I tracked down all the research that supposedly upholds these claims and it is completely, utterly bogus.

Here’s my question: Is there a way to deliver oxygen to the skin in the form of a cream? Is it beneficial? Could hydrogen peroxide break down in order to deliver oxygen to the cells of the skin, as Karin Herzog claims?

The Left Brain responds:
I suggest you read the thread that Ava provided (see reference below) because it contains an excellent explanation from Paula Begoun, the Cosmetic Cop, on why oxygen is a bogus ingredient in cosmetics. Meanwhile, here’s my take on the subject:

A breath of fresh air

It’s true that oxygen is essential for healthy skin. But that’s only because you’d be DEAD without oxygen. Let me explain how that works: When you inhale oxygen it binds to hemoglobin in your red cells and is transported to various tissues throughout your body. From there it’s taken up into the cells, specifically into the mitochondria. These are tiny compartments that are equipped with special enzymes that bind to the oxygen to create energy for the cells. So oxygen that you breathe, that’s properly bound in your cells is important.

On the other hand, free oxygen is BAD for your skin because it can create free radicals that damage your cells. So despite the fact that Karin Herzog tells you her eye cream contains “0.5% oxygen that moisturizes, illuminates, tones, hydrates and firms the gentle eye area” your skin does NOT want free oxygen.

I can think of one case where there is a potential benefit to applying oxygen you skin. That’s using hydrogen peroxide as an antiseptic. The peroxide breaks and release oxygen that can have a mild germicidal effect. But that oxygen doesn’t penetrate into your skin!

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Don’t hold your breath waiting for oxygen skin care products to really work.

Reference:
Paula’s references on oxygen and skin can be found in this thread.

Skeptical Susan says: In your story about cosmetics that really work, you mentioned all those products that don’t really do what they say. That made me wonder why don’t any of these companies ever get in trouble if they’re lying? I thought we had laws against false advertising.

The Right Brain retorts:
You’re correct, there are laws against false advertising. They vary from county to country but generally speaking for those laws to take effect someone has to initiate a challenge against the suspicious advertiser. That challenge can come from a consumer such as yourself, another company, or from an interested party such as a consumer group or governmental body.

Two ways to challenge

Regardless of who initiates the challenge, in the US there are two basic ways by which advertisements are “policed.” The first way involves taking the company directly to court because you believe you can show their advertisement is false and misleading. If the courts rule in the plaintiff’s favor, the offending company can be forced to stop specific advertising and they may have to pull recall product from distribution. In addition, the court can levy fines against the company if warranted. This is not usually the course that is followed because of the time and money involved in engaging the legal system.

Most of the time, cases are reviewed by an arbitrating body, specifically the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Better Business Bureau. The NAD has no specific legal authority and can not punish companies for running bad ads, but their opinion carries a lot of weight. So if the NAD rules against a company, in most cases, the advertiser follows their advice (or they may face more severe action in court.) While the general public may not realize it, companies are challenged on their claims ALL the time. In fact here’s a recent example from the NAD case files issued April 2008:

Is Actifade illegal?

This case involves a product called Actifade, a sunspot/age spot fade cream. We’ve blogged before about similar products like Meladerm and other skin lighteners. These are Over The Counter (OTC) drugs because they contain active ingredients that reduce skin pigmentation. The NAD took issue with the advertiser’s claims because product performance claims should follow the language in the OTC drug monograph. Here’s how the NAD ruled on specific Actifade claims:

• Claims regarding “stopping sun spots, age spots and liver spots” implied that the product permanently eliminated skin discolorations and are not supported by any data from the advertiser. Claims about looking “5, 10, even 20 years younger” are also not supported. Both claims should be discontinued

• The claims “Younger looking skin has never been easier” and “Just rub it on and it works,” must be modified to avoid implying that the products immediately remove age spots

• The claim “Actifade combines a cosmetic with powerful medication that will fade sun spots, age spots and dark discoloration with no greasy mess” is acceptable and can be used.

The Beauty Brains Bottom Line

As a result of this NAD challenge, Actifade has agreed to change their advertising. If they had not agreed, they could have been taken to court to face more serious action. So there you have it - that’s how the system protects us from false advertising.

What do YOU think? Does the legal system do a good job of protecting the public from fraudulent cosmetic claims? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

A couple of recent stories have gotten me thinking about hypocrisy in the beauty industry. Certainly you’ve heard the news that the photos of the “real women” in the Dove Real Beauty campaign may have been digitally altered.  If true, this would seem hypocritical because they complain most companies use touched up models to sell their products while they do exactly the same thing except with chubbier, less attractive models.  Of course, the company is mostly denying it, but what else can they do? Close-up photographs of real people never look as good as ones that have been touched up.  Freckles, acne, wrinkles and age-spots don’t work in magazine ads.

Natural Hypocrites

The other story was one about the Organic Consumers Association (OCA) attacking “natural” companies for using raw materials that contain a potential carcinogen. It seems that companies like Jason Natural & Organic, Kiss My Face and Nature’s Gate Organic all use ethoxylated ingredients that have trace amounts of 1,4-Dioxane. The OCA believes it’s hypocritical to say you are natural, but still contain supposedly dangerous ingredients. While we disagree about the danger posed by trace amounts of 1,4-Dioxane, we can see the OCA’s point. It does seem hypocritical.

Getting what they deserve

It just goes to show you how difficult it is to build a brand by tearing other people’s products down. Photos can always be made more “real”. Cosmetic formulas can always be made “safer”.

Companies that claim to more real or safer than others are just setting themselves up for being exposed as hypocrites.

I for one am happy to see it. Perhaps next time they’ll focus on the good features of their products instead of what they think are bad features of their competitors.

Are the Beauty Brains Hypocrites?

Incidentally, we hear the claim on the Beauty Brains every so often that we are hypocrites because we accept advertising for products. We whole-heartedly disagree with this. While it is true that we do accept advertising and also get money for some affiliate programs, we don’t believe this is hypocritical because we do not allow the fact that a product is advertised on our website to cloud what we say about them  If we don’t believe a product like Pink Patch weight loss, Kinoki Foot pads, or Jan Marini eyelash thickeners work, we’ll tell you.

However, we’ll accept ads from them and if you’re going to buy them, that’s fine with us.  It is up to you to use your brain when making purchasing decision.  We’re not here to tell you what to do. We’re here to help you make an informed decision.

There is one line of hypocrisy that we will not cross.   The Beauty Brains will not make their own line of cosmetics.  While it could easily be done, we believe it would create an unavoidable bias that would taint the information you get here on the Beauty Brains.  The information, the science is what is important.  That’s why the only products you’ll ever get from the Beauty Brains are books and other information products.  And these are the only products we endorse.

Have you been to the Beauty Brains forum? If not you’re missing a lot of great discussions. The forum is a place where you get to swap ideas, tips, and opinions on beauty products and pretty much any other topic you’re interested in. (If you need more see these 10 Reasons to Join the Forum)

So, head on over to the forum and let the others in the Beauty Brains community know what you think. Here is just a list of some of topics you can weigh in on right now.

1. Share your makeup tips - Fellow beauty brainiacs swap tips on the best way to apply makeup.
2. Tell us your latest skin care products - Community members sound off on which products they’re using right now and how well they like them (or not).
3. Tell us your latest makeup purchase - Like the one above but for make-up.
4. What beauty product do you want that doesn’t exist? - Here’s a chance for a direct line to tell cosmetic chemists what kind of products they should be making.
5. What beauty treatment would you undergo? - Members tell what cosmetic procedure they might try and talk about the ones that are just too scary.

We have a lively group on the forum and membership is free. If you want to be heard, just sign up here and leave your comments.

Kisha’s quandary: It depresses me to see your site be so negative, it seems like no product works out there and that we are so dependent on chemicals drugs and studies , which a lot of times are purposely rigged to have the drug companies make the most money. How in the word have we survived for so long without those drugs before????

The Left Brain’s reply:
Kisha, as I’ve said before, our mission is to educate our community about the truth behind cosmetic products. And the sad truth is, there are many products out there that do NOT do what they promise.

Bogus beauty buys

Some examples include the Pink Patch, Collyre Bleu Eye Drops, Airborne, Kinoki Detox Foot Pads, the Brava Breast Enhancement system, Clarins 3P Screen Mist, and a host of high-priced, over-promised anti-aging products like Perricone.

Many of the products that we’re asked about, like the ones I just mentioned, are dubious at best. I rarely see questions that have a clear cut, positive answer like “does Suave shampoo really get your hair clean.” So, since our community asks us about questionable products, the answers that the Right Brain and I give are often negative because many of these products are more about BS than beauty science. It’s unfortunate that you think it’s depressing to learn the truth about products that are trying to trick you. I think it’s much more depressing to wake up one morning and realize you spent a lot of your hard earned money on products that don’t deliver they benefit they promise.

Cosmetics that really work

However, just because I blog about a lot of bogus products, that doesn’t mean that NOTHING works. In fact, the world of cosmetics offers MANY products that are highly effective. The Right Brain and I have blogged about these in the past, but in case you haven’t seen them, here are 10 quick examples of cosmetics that really work:

1. Crest Teeth whitening strips
2. Secret Clinical Strength Antiperspirant
3. Avocado oil for soothing skin
4. Coconut and Palm oil hair strengthening products like Ojon
5. Hair dyes of all kinds
6. Silicone scar removal sheets
7. Skin lighteners like Meladerm
8. Fluoride tooth paste
9. Skin moisturizers
10. Hair relaxers

The Beauty Brains bottom line

In conclusion, I’m sorry that you feel our site is negative and depressing. But I’d rather tell you the straight truth about cosmetics and have you leave the Beauty Brains community than let you go on thinking that all the advertising you read about cosmetics is true. Hopefully you’ll continue reading so we can help you be a smarter shopper. Thanks for your question.

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The Beauty Brains tell us the story of Emily Skin Soother, a skin salve developed by a father for his infant daughter.

Rebecca’s request: I’ve been introduced to Prevage by my beauty consultant as being a great product to prevent environmental damage to skin and even reversing some of the already existing. This product is a little pricey, so I’d like to know how true are the claims on their web page. Please advise.

The Right Brain proselytizes about Prevage:
Prevage is originally from a company called Allergan who markets the full-strength 1% active version (formally known as Prevage-MD). Elizabeth Arden’s version contains 0.5% (or half as much active ingredient). Arden has launched a line of idebenone-based products including an anti-aging face treatment for 1.7 fl. oz. for $150 as well as a similarly priced night cream and an eye treatment.

Prevage’s claim to fame is that its active ingredient is an antioxidant known as idebenone. Long time readers may remember that we blogged about this “miracle ingredient” before. But in case you missed our first post, here’s a quick recap.

What is Idebenone

Idebenone came out of research in the ’70 and ‘80s that showed a material known as Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) could improve heart failure, reduce free radical damage and slow down certain neurological conditions. CoQ10 is a vitamin-like material that not only helps control cellular energy production but is also a powerful antioxidant. The researchers modified the CoQ10 molecule to enhance its properties and one of modifications became idebenone. Today, several companies , including Elizabeth Arden and Priori Skin Care market idebenone-based products as next generation antioxidants.

Does Prevage work?

According to Arden’s website, they claim that idebenone is “ currently the most effective antioxidant for addressing the visible signs of aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, roughness and discoloration.” Interestingly, they qualify that claim with an “*” the reveals the comparison is to alpha lipoic acid, kinetin, vitamin C, vitamin E, and coenzyme Q10. There’s not mention of other powerful antioxidants like flavinoids and polyphenols found in natural materials like tea leaves and grape seeds. So it’s really hard to tell how idebenone stacks up against these competing technologies.

Furthermore, Arden boasts their clinical tests “show a significant decrease in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and an improvement in the look of firmness, tone, texture, and radiance.” But frankly, those are not particularly impressive claims – many products that are much cheaper are said to perform similarly.

According to one of our favorite sources, Smartskincare.com, there have not been “head to head” studies to determine if idebenone is better than CoQ10 for fighting wrinkles. They also say that if you are using proven anti-wrinkle agents (like retinoids) with good results, you may want to hold off on idebenone until more studies are conducted. They sum it up nicely by saying: “trying idebenone is a question of willingness to spend time and money on a treatment that could work in theory but is not yet backed by hard evidence.”

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Prevage appears to be another high-priced skin care line that promises youth-in-a-bottle without much proof.

Reference: Smart Skin Care

It’s that time of the week again to see how well the Beauty Brains community can figure out the science versus the nonsense. Head on over to the blog and enter your answer to this week’s beauty science or BS poll. We’ve picked 3 headlines ripped from the pages of our favorite science feeds and made one up. Can you figure out which of the following stories is FAKE?

Beauty Science or BS Headlines

1. Women in their 40s report more issues with their skin than any other group.

2. Data suggests the smell of rotten eggs can increase human lifespan.

3. Male interviewers are more biased in favor of attractive interviewees than female interviewers.

4. Eating tomatoes can protect skin from sun damage

Good luck and feel free to leave a comment below to say why you picked the way you did.

It’s been over two years since the Left Brain, Right Brain and Sarah Bellum began blogging about beauty science. Since then we’ve answered thousands of questions and had many, many many, thousands of visitors drop by our site. How many? Funny you should ask! For those of you geeky enough to care about such things, you can find a Sitemeter Counter at the bottom of our blog that tells you pretty much how many visitors we’ve had to date. It looks like this:

As you can tell, we’re getting dangerously close to breaking the 1,000,000 visitors mark! We are SO excited that we’ve able to share our scientific smarts with that many people! So, to celebrate the occasion we’re going to do something special: we’re giving a FREE COPY of The Beauty Brains book to someone who signs for our mailing list between now and the time we break the one million mark. (Don’t worry, if you’re already signed up, you have a chance to win too!) So if you want to win, and you haven’t signed up yet, do it now. By our calculations, we’ll reach the magic number in the next 2 or 3 days!

How to be eligible for the contest

All you have to do is sign up here:

And thanks to everyone who has been one of the “magic million” over these past 2 years. We love you all!