Kim comments… What’s worse: chemically straightening hair, or blowing hair out and flat ironing it 2-3 times per week? I know they’re both bad, but is there a lesser of the two evils?
The Right Brain Replies:
Chemically straightening is about the worst thing you can do to your hair. That’s because the first step in the hair straightening process breaks apart the protein bonds in hair.
Breaking those bonds allows you to take the curl out of the hair but it’s very harmful because not all the bonds are repaired. So, your hair is left much weaker after straightening.
Blow drying and ironing are harmful too, but they’re much less damaging than chemical attacks. Plus, you can use heat protection products that will help cut down on the damage.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
You can iron your hair straight many times before you’ll equal the damage from chemically straightening it one time.
{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }
With all due respect I disagree with this article. I am a hair straightening and texture expert. I do several different processes to alter the texture of the hair.
If your article is strictly speaking of a traditional relaxer, where the chemical involved is sodium or calcium hydroxide, then I agree. However, there are many other processes such as cold curl reduction, thermal curl reduction, thermal straightening, smooth control, frizz reduction etc. The basic ingredients are the same, the techniques change. These products are usually thio based, yet some use cysteamine HCL.
The bonds of the hair are NOT destroyed when these processes are done properly, by an experienced stylist. They are rearranged.
Bonds ARE destroyed during a tradional relaxer ( sodium hydroxide ) which causes the hair to become lifeless. Bonds are also destroyed when bleach is used to color the hair as well as some high lift coloring.
Of course the Brazilian Keratin and other Keratin treatments are a class of their own as they coat the hair and do not disrupt the bonds. We are all aware of the all the controversy surrounding these products. Which I would like to make clear at another time.
There is a new hybrid class of products coming out now that appear to be a keratin type of straightener/defrizzer, yet they have chemicals in them and claim to need no neutralizer. They do require a 72 hour wait before a shampoo can be done, which is essentially air neutralizing.
My bottom line is that ironing the hair 2 to 3 times a week if far more damaging than a properly done straightening/smoothing process when done by a very experienced stylist who is knowledgeable in the chemicals being used and how they react to and with the structure of the hair.
Denise Kingsley
Denver Colorado
“With all due respect I disagree with this article. I am a hair
straightening and texture expert.”
And aren’t at all biased by that. O:-)
Denise,
I am considering a keratin treatment and I am still confused though I keep reading about it; how do the formaldehyde-free ones relax hair. I am suspicious. I don’t see how coating the hair with keratin would relax it, but I hope it is true…
In the past I’ve had had different kinds of relaxers and all looked shiny and healthy at first, so seeing people who just had the keratin done recently doesn’t convince me…
How does it work?
Janis,
I can certainly understand your comment, however, I BECAME a hair straightening specialist because of the demand by clients. I have to stress again that the stylist MUST know what they are doing AND have experience.
Bonnie,
For a keratin treatment to work, it must have an agent that bonds or fuses the keratin to the hair. This agent must be heated to a high degree, approx 450. The products that are truly formaldehyde free either have another bonding agent that will release formaldehyde or they do not work. There are many alternatives used such as vanillin, but they all react to heat the same way. Now, there is nothing wrong with this, as long as the stylist uses the product in a way that creates a safe environment for their clients and themselves. I prefer to use a source capture system and an very strong air purifier.
The bonded keratin will relax the hair. Depending on the hair, it can result in straight hair. These processes are considered a smoother or tamer for hair. There are many variables that determine the results such as the porosity, condition and degree of curl.
One must also take into account how frequently they shampoo. The more you do shampoo, the faster the treatment wears off.
Hi all,
My two cents’ worth, not as a hair professional but as a girl who had her hair chemically straigtened three times (about once a year for the past three years)
I’ve had very good results with hair straightening, actually it’s a godsend — I am somewhat blow-dry challenged and spending hours on doing my hair isn’t exactly my type. Now I can just let my hair air dry, and it dries all stick-straight looking I did a really nice blowdry (I’ve also noticed it seems to dry faster).
The only disadvantage of it all was that I lost some volume, not because of hair falling out but because it’s a lot flatter now, but I don’t mind.
I did not use any products for African hair (I am European or “Caucasian” as you say), as these are supposed to be really rough on hair (and also not suitable for Euro hair). I went to a salon that uses “Schwarzkopf Straight Therapy”, not to give any advertisement, but there’s got to be other brands that do that.
I h
(oops, message interrupted)
I have no doubt that it’s still probably damaging, but my hair looks less damaged now that I don’t blow dry it or use a flat iron on it several times a week. So I’m pretty happy with it! It’s purely empirical though, I can’t help with the chemical discussions behind it.
I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again, I don’t understand why anyone would want their hair straight. It’s so boring, always looks greasy and filthy even after it’s been recently washed, not at all feminine and pretty – I would rather have frizzy hair then straight!
Jami: Dry, frizzy hair isn’t attractive either. Especially when it’s bleached or over-processed. I envy those with natural, beautiful, consistent, frizz-free curls (like my boyfriend, gah!) But straight hair can be just as beautiful if taken care of and styled well. Think Catherine Zeta-Jones, or EmmyLou Harris.
I don’t have consistent curl to my hair. It is tight curl in the front, straight on the bottom and a bad mix in the middle. What can I say – bad genetics.
I started using a flat iron around 2001. A really crappy one at that. One that burnt my hair, made it smell awful, and took 45 minutes to do. But it was as close as I could get to making my hair manageable enough to wear it without pinning it up every day. Even so, if it rained or got foggy, it would immediately frizz no matter how much or what type of product I put in it.
Finally in 2003 I invested in thermal straightening.
HALLELUJAH! I wish this had been around when I was in junior high. Would have saved me years of torment and therapy.
My hair was the softest and shiniest it had ever been. I received so many compliments! The best part of all though, was that I didn’t have to do anything to it except wash, condition, and run a comb through it. It smelled good, it looked good, it felt good. Best thing I had ever done for myself. I will admit that I did have some breakage where my hair is naturally fine (at the temples and underneath at edge of hairline.) But it was so minimal that it was unnoticeable. The key is to have it done by someone who is meticulous, knows the process and chemicals, and has patience.
I’ve since had it retouched over 6 times and used 3 different brands of straightener. I personally still like the Chi system the best. But I think it mostly comes down to the stylist who does it. My first stylist was the best. She was meticulous, knew the process and chemicals, and was very patient and thorough. She took longer, but it always came out beautiful and lasted a long time. I’ve had other stylist that have done a decent job, but my hair hasn’t been the same as when my first stylist did it. Unfortunately, I don’t live near her and she doesn’t do hair anymore.
It’s been a year since I’ve had my last touch up, and I’m saving (on a student budget) to have it done again. I have about 5″ of new growth, and have been using a good flat iron. It doesn’t compare to the chemical process. My hair is falling out and breaking like crazy from the iron. And it just doesn’t lay naturally like when I have the thermal straightening done. I also have to blow-dry it, and my scalp has been horribly dry. Never had that problem when my hair was straight. Oily? Only if I didn’t wash it after a day or two. That’s all dependent on your genetics and body chemistry.
Anyway, in theory it may be true that chemical processing is more damaging, but I still stand by my experience and personal evidence that thermal straightening is much healthier and better results than using heat styling tools.
I have had my hair straightened last week by a hair stylist that reportedly had excellent credentials.
My hair was mainly gray and I had it coloured and highlighted. It wasn’t in terrible condition, (soft and somewhat dry) but it is always frizzy and fuzzy. It never looked good and any moisture in the air and I’d look like a fuzz ball.
Going to this stylist, I went through the usual procedure. She said she used a different treatment on my hair, something more gentle. Second mistake (first was to check her claims out) was not to have a test.
My hair was fine afterwards and I avoided moisture and didn’t was my hair for a week. But where I sweat, at the nape of my neck, my hair went ultra kinky.
I did wash my hair, deep conditioned it blah blah after a week. It blew up and I had to iron it straight. I thought this wasn’t right. I complained (too late, she has my money and I’m stuck with bad hair) and we have a deep conditioning treatment booked for this week.
Today it’s rainy and I’ve been outside for a few minutes and my hair on one side of head is ultra frizzy. So if I want that straight, I’ll have to iron it and do more damage.
I could only find glowing testimonials online. That isn’t right. This is a supposedly experienced hair stylist. But my hair while shinier than before is now more kinky in spots (I mean really kinky – I’m caucasian, and it’s not quite like black hair because it’s not coarse but similar).
I’ve been looking for help and saw a brief comment that it’s probably because she have the product on long enough.
So now, I have spent $500 on something that makes my hair worse. Any suggestions out there?
Should she try and use another product to get the kink out or is this just a bad idea? I don’t have the exact name of the product but will try and get it. Was the gentlest she had.
I have to colour my hair – it’s quite gray so that’s another process that I have to deal with. Again, do I need to wait?
I am mad at myself and for being taken in. Ladies, do your home work and insist on a test and know what products they are using. It may not work for you.
i got my thermal reconditioning done 2 days ago… i was just wondering what are the best products to use for maintaining my hair in good condition and to avoid breakage? specific products would be great. i’ve already invested in a phytologie conditioning hair masque, and phyto page sun veil with spf, but what are some good shampoo, conditioner, leave in conditioner brands, etc. brand names are much appreciated! would organix coconut milk work? matrix biolage strengthening shampoo?
Judging by your pictures Jami, your hair is revolting. Don’t even attempt to criticize others when you look the way you do.
Caro, why would you believe that so called “African products” would be really rough on your hair ? All hair care products whether they are made for Black hair, Caucasian hair, or Asian hair have the possibility of being good or bad, but as a whole Black hair products aren’t “rough”. If anything, they will just make your hair really soft/possibly weighed down because the majority of these hair care products are made with intense moisture.
@Jami, my hair is straight and I have to live with it. Too bad that you think it’s boring.
As Denise pointed out, a chemical relaxer “rearranges” the hair bonds, permanently smoothing the cuticle so that the hair remains straight. While the hair may be permanently altered, it is not damaged in the sense of split ends and breakage one gets with regular use of a flat iron. As a black woman with 3B hair (i.e., tight corkscrew ringlets) living in the most humid place in the country, who has used both the flat iron and a chemical relaxer to straighten my hair, I (and any hair stylist specializing in “black hair”) will attest to the fact that regular flat ironing is far more damaging. When I decided to start wearing my hair straight for work, I had to flat iron it at least twice a week to keep it frizz free, and every time I washed it, I had to blow dry before using the flat iron. Well the cumulative effect of all that heat and tension was lots of split ends (even after use “heat protecting serum”). Once I relaxed my hair, which is a one-time process combined with regular “touch ups” on the new growth, my need for heat styling lessened severely as well as the associated breakage and split ends.
Right Brain, this was clearly a question you should have sought a few expert opinions before responding.
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