Calla Lily asks…I’ve always wondered if there is legitimacy to Clarins’ claim that by patting their product into your skin, it works better and you skin absorbs it better than rubbing it in. Is this really true? If so, what about all other skincare products out there? Should we be patting instead of rubbing?
The Right Brain responds:
We’re not familiar with this particular Clarins product but the notion that lotion will be absorbed better if you pat it on instead of rubbing it on makes no sense. While patting your face may increase blood flow, blood circulation doesn’t play a role in the absorption process because ingredients penetrate the upper layers of skin by diffusing through the channels between skin cells and not by absorption through blood vessels.
A dermatologist discusses skin penetration
Rather than rely on our knowledge of chemistry to answer this one we decided to consult Dr. Cynthia Bailey M.D., a dermatologist who runs her own blog. Here’s what Dr. Bailey had to say in response to the question:
Hmm, I had to ponder just what might have led Clarins to this idea, and I’m stumped. You see, the outer dead cell layer of the skin (called the stratum corneum) is THE single, main protective barrier for our skin. Once something gets through the stratum corneum it has a free ride into the rest of the skin, but getting through the stratum corneum is no easy feat – and the act of rubbing or patting is inconsequential.
To put it in perspective, if it wasn’t for the strength of this huge (like biggest organ in the body sort of huge) barrier all our important body stuff would be leaching out from our skin all day long, and every substance we came into contact would enter. The integrity of this barrier is a big deal for our health, and it takes more than patting or rubbing to impact it. To breach the stratum corneum you need to assault it with tactics like a facial acid peel that dissolves it entirely, laser vaporization where it goes up in smoke, repetitive stripping with tape until you’ve pulled it all off (anyone who has had hair removal waxing knows what I mean), or severe irritation that disrupts the components of the stratum corneum rendering it defective (think dish pan hands).
When we apply skin care products, by either rubbing or patting, our skin care products sloooowly penetrate our stratum corneum by gradually seeping in (a process called diffusion). Again, whether we pat or rub, they aren’t going to get through any faster than the stratum corneum will let them.
If you’d like to learn more from Dr. Bailey you can find her at Drbaileyskincare.com.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Patting on lotion instead of rubbing will not make the product penetrate your skin any differently. If Clarins has any data to the contrary, we’d be glad to review it in a future post.
Reference: Hwa C, Bauer EA, Cohen DE, Skin Biology, Dermatologic Therapy, Vol. 24, 2011, 464-70
Image credit: tate.org.uk
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Thanks so much for answering my question! I just want to share a link from Clarins’ website on how to apply one of their product. http://www.clarins.ca/Vital-Light-Day-SPF15-All-skin-types/C010411005,en_CA,pd.html?start=14&cgid=220. This “patting” method was also taught to me by one of their “beauty expert” in one of the department store. So glad I asked, haha, but I do feel kind of silly now that I’ve actually been patting.
I wonder if Clarins’ “Pat vs. Rub” protocol might have more to do with not stretching the skin (the assumption being that that would cause wrinkles) than absorption. I recall being told that by a cosmetics salesperson some years ago. (My own personal take was that it didn’t seem to make any difference…except taking more time.)
The patting method is great if you don’t wanna strech your skin. The method to apply the cream on your face helps to drain the fluids and de-puff your face.
I’ve noticed when I put on my foundation it will have a different surface texture if I rub it on with my fingers rather than use my wide flat topped ‘spackle’ brush to sort of stipple on to my skin.
The foundation kind of runs into my wrinkles and emphasizes them, but with a patting stippling brush action it seems to create a more even, reflective texture that helps hide the wrinkles. This is even more definite when I have used a thick ‘primer’ before putting on the foundation. Brush patting or stippling seems to give me a better result overall.
@CaliPop: The “spackle” effect makes sense as a reason to pat instead of rub (even though it has nothing to do with absorption of the product through the skin.)
I was always told not to rub because it’s irritating to skin which is already irritated by acne. I don’t think it matters much if you have otherwise healthy skin, though.
Thanks for the useful info. Some of our customers are definitely going to enjoy this data-backed-up research!
personally I always rub/massage in serums and moisturisers because it stimulates circulation and metabolic process including collagen production. also known to have a firming effect
I recall La Mer stating a similar thing, but it had more to do with activating their ‘secret broth’ or something. You were supposed to warm it a bit with your fingers and pat it on (and I do recall visiting Clarins and getting similar advice)
I don’t think patting and rubbing make a difference but how do you feel about the new microneedle skin roller?
http://dermarollerreviewsguide.com
They make the skin more permeable and aid in the production of collagen as well.
If they have an effect on the production of collagen they would be classified as medical devices and need FDA approval to demonstrate safety. I looked at the website you linked to and I don’t see any convincing evidence to suggest the Dermaroller is worthy purchasing.
I used to work for Clarins, among others. If I remember correctly, the patting method was encouraged so clients would treat their skin kindly, as Catherine noted above. Some clients were exceedingly enthusiastic in their administration of products.
“Exceedingly enthusiastic” LOL. I have an image of women slapping themselves in the face to apply lotion.
Quite interesting title, all i can say is that if you are applying properly where you want then no problem to it, it is not necessary for rub or pat.
According to Dr. Obagi, rubbing activates skin cells and causes more collagen to form. I have been rubbing my products in for the last year and find I use less product but get better results.
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