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The secret “illegal” ingredient in the best sunscreens

Yesterday I told you all about the Sunscreen Innovation Act and how the EWG is pushing us to get safer sunscreens by skipping safety testing. (It’s a long story, follow the link above and you’ll see what I mean.)

By now we know that the law DID pass which hopefully means we’ll see these “superior” European ingredients on the U.S. market soon. But wouldn’t it be awesome if you could get some of these European ingredients right now? Well you can, sort of.

The secret sunscreen ingredient

As noted in yesterday’s discussion, the laws that govern approval of ingredients for Over the Counter products like sunscreens make the process very ponderous. There is, however, another way to get a sunscreen ingredient approved that bypasses this process: companies can petition the FDA to approve a new sunscreen active as part of a New Drug Application. This NDA “backdoor” is not used very often because it’s an expensive process and it limits the types of formulas in which the active can be used. But this is exactly what cosmetic giant L’Oreal did back in 2006 with their patented ingredient “Ecamsule.” Ecamsule not only provides stronger UVA protection but can also be used in formulas which are longer lasting and which have a better skin feel.

So, armed with data from Europe, Canada, and other parts of the world, L’Oreal won U.S. approval for a few, very specific Ecamsule-based products. Sound too good to be true? There is a catch: First of all, it’s expensive so you can expect to pay considerably more for products containing this secret ingredient. Second, you may have a hard time finding Ecamsule products. That’s partly because L’Oreal is limited in the number of different formulation in which it can be used but it’s also because Ecamsule goes under several different names. It’s also known as Mexoryl SX, Anthelios SX, and the ever popular terephthalylidene dicamphor-sulfonic acid. To make things even more tricky, L’Oreal sells these products under the guise of some of their non-L’Oreal brands like La Roche-Posay and Vichy.

Still, if you’re aching to try sunscreen formulas that are not allowed under the OTC monograph, here are links to a few L’Oreal Ecamsule sunscreens. (Note: If you actually buy any product after clicking our link please be advised that we received a microscopic commission from Amazon. Trust me, it’s not a lot of money but I just thought you should know.)

Top 5 best sunscreens with Ecamsule

La Roche-Posay Anthelios SX Daily Moisturizing Cream SPF 15 with Mexoryl SX

La Roche-Posay Anthelios 40 Suncreen Cream UVA Protection with Mexoryl SX

Vichy Capital Soleil Max Protection SPF 50+ Face Cream

Ombrelle Sunscreen SPF60 w/ MEXORYL

Loreal Revitalift UV with Mexory SX

{ 9 comments… add one }

  • Karen August 4, 2014, 1:56 am

    Great information for sun protection! I’m always looking to do all I can to minimize sun damage.

    My only concern is how they will work as a base for makeup. When I look at user reviews for any of these sunscreens that contain Ecamsule, women seem unhappy with their consistency, often complaining they are very thick and pasty like toothpaste. I’d be curious if anyone has tried one of these sunscreens under makeup and would then be kind enough to share their thoughts.

    @Randy: Does this mean that the La Roche-Posay sunscreens whose names include Anthelios (containing Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, & Oxybenzone) but NOT Emcamsule (so no “SX” in their name) are inferior in the sun protection they offer against UVA rays? There’s quite a few firestorms in user reviews going on at various websites as to whether the Anthelios ingredients protect against damaging UVA rays or not. Could you clarify?

    • Randy Schueller August 4, 2014, 8:29 pm

      “Does this mean that the La Roche-Posay sunscreens whose names include Anthelios (containing Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, & Oxybenzone) but NOT Emcamsule (so no “SX” in their name) are inferior in the sun protection they offer against UVA rays?”

      If you believe the data that shows ecamsule provides superior UVA protection, then yes, they would be inferior in that respect. I’m curious about the “firestorms” you mentioned. Do you have any example links that I could check out?

  • Karen August 4, 2014, 4:35 pm

    Hmm… It shows there are two comments here but only one is visible.

  • Tara August 4, 2014, 10:24 pm

    This is great info as I’ve been wondering about these LRP products for some time. My question is that if ecamsule is great at blocking UVA, do I still need to be concerned about UVB?

  • BooBooNinja August 16, 2014, 12:56 pm

    I have an off-topic sunscreen related question.
    I typically layer my sunscreen: chemical first, then physical. Let’s say that one day I use a product with ZnO product first and then apply a product with both physical and chemical ingredients, e.g. TiO2 (UVB, UVA2) + avobenzone (UVA1). Does the physical barrier of ZnO block the chemical active from being absorbed into my skin, rendering the latter useless? Another example of this scenario is when I apply ZnO first and then use a tinted moisturizer with a chemical SPF.

    Keep up the great work. Cheers!

    • Randy Schueller August 17, 2014, 1:33 pm

      Boo Boo: I’ve never seen any data which indicates that the order of sunscreen addition makes any difference. My GUESS is that you should apply UV absorbers first because they are emulsions and need “soak” in to set up a film before they work properly.

      • BooBooNinja August 23, 2014, 11:15 pm

        Thanks, Randy.

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