≡ Menu

There’s a lot more to making cosmetics than just mixing stuff up in a beaker. Listen to this week’s show to learn all about how cosmetic scientists create the products you use everyday. 

Click below to play Episode 50 or click “download” to save the MP3 file to your computer.

Show notes

Take the cosmetic expert quiz

Here’s a fun quiz posted to test your cosmetic knowledge.  Go to the FDA website to check your answers or read them at the bottom of this post.


  1. FDA must approve cosmetics before they go to market.
  2. Using mascara the wrong way can cause blindness.
  3. Tattoos used to be permanent but now lasers are an easy, reliable way to erase them.
  4. Cruelty free or not tested on animals means that no animal testing was done on the product and its ingredients.
  5. There are non-animal tests that can replace all animal testing of cosmetics.
  6. If a product is labeled as all natural or organic it is probably hypo allergenic
  7. Even if a product is labeled hypo allergenic it may contain substances that can cause allergic reactions for some people.
  8. Choosing products with the claim dermatologist tested is a way to avoid an allergic reaction or other skin irritation
  9. Lots of lipsticks on the market contain dangerous amounts of lead.
  10. About 60 to 70% of what you put on your skin is absorbed into your body.

Question of the week…What does a cosmetic scientist do? 

Mia asks…You talk about not only ingredients but also advertising and regulations so there must be more to your job than just chemistry. Can you explain more about what a cosmetic chemist does?

What is a cosmetic scientist?

It’s not surprising Mia has this question considering that cosmetic science seems to be some deep dark secret unless you’re in the industry. Even in college teaching courses in chemistry there is literally zero mention of the field of cosmetics. A cosmetic scientist may involve chemistry or some other scientific discipline. But it involves much more than just being a “cook” who mixes products together.  The term “Product Developer” is more accurate in some respects.

Where do you find cosmetic scientists?

You might logically assume that cosmetic scientists would work for cosmetic companies. And of course it’s true that cosmetic companies do hire these researchers but you might be surprised to find out where else cosmetics scientists work.

The cosmetics industry can be divided into five basic categories:

* Finished goods manufacturers
* Raw Material Suppliers
* Consultants and Testing
* Laboratories
* Government
* Academia

And even across these different parts of the industry there are many different sub types of cosmetic scientists.

Types of cosmetic science careers

* Product Development Chemist/ Cosmetic Chemist
* Analytical Chemistry for raw materials and production
* Cosmetology
* Manufacturing Engineer
* Safety Specialist evaluates raw materials and finished goods to establish their safety during use
* Regulatory Specialist ensures compliance with local and global regulations
* Toxicologist/Safety Specialist evaluates raw materials and finished goods to establish their safety during use
* Microbiologist
* Packaging Engineer
* Perfumer
* Claims development to support product performance
* Quality Assurance
* Technical Sales Representative assists customers (product developers) with formulation and technical support
* Marketing
* Science Public Relations
* Educator

What does a cosmetic scientist do?

Rather than try to explain all the functions of all these different careers we’ll do a little deep dive into the role of the product development chemist which, arguably , has the broadest exposure/responsibility across all these careers.

Creating an idea
Driven by a combination of new technology, consumer insight, and business needs.

  • Co-author concepts for testing
  • Inspire the marketing department with new product ideas
  • Developing the product

Making the product

Mixing products,  stability testing, cleaning glassware, chasing down raw materials. Work with fragrance houses to make products smell good. This includes writing briefs, testing samples, running consumer panels, etc. Working with Packaging, Micro, Regulatory, etc.

Researching consumer insights

Sitting behind the two-way mirror in a focus group.

Efficacy testing and claims substantiation

  • Test products to prove that they really work
  • Tress testing, instrumental tests, large consumer panels.
  • Evaluating products in the salon
  • Work with stylists to test on real people. An opportunity to see/feel how your products actually perform.
  • Developing advertising

Create compelling demonstrations which bring product benefits to life visually

Working with advertising agencies to develop supportable claims

Technical consulting for TV commercials
Here’s a commercial that I worked on:

Writing and reviewing label copy

  • Claims (as discussed above), LOIs, warning statements, net weight, etc.

Trouble shooting manufacturing issues

  • Work with Operations team on scale up
  • Troubleshoot manufacturing issues

Educating the sales team and retail customers

Explain product benefits, help the sales team do a better job of selling the product to Walmart, Target, etc.

Promoting the product through Public Relations

  • Staging “show and tell” events
  • Desk side interviews with beauty editors

Assisting with consumer complaints and litigation

  • Investigate cause of consumer complaints
  • Assist council with any resulting litigation

Working with attorneys on intellectual property issues

Applying for new patents and lawsuits related to existing patents
LIL buy it now button

Buy your copy of It’s OK to Have Lead in Your Lipstick to learn more about:

  • Clever lies that the beauty companies tell you.
  • The straight scoop of which beauty myths are true and which are just urban legends.
  • Which ingredients are really scary and which ones are just scaremongering by the media to incite an irrational fear of chemicals.
  • How to tell the difference between the products that are really green and the ones that are just trying to get more of your hard earned money by labeling them “natural” or “organic.

Click here for all the The Beauty Brains podcasts.

Quiz answers:

  1. FDA must approve cosmetics before they go to market. F
  2. Using mascara the wrong way can cause blindness. T
  3. Tattoos used to be permanent but now lasers are an easy, reliable way to erase them. F
  4. Cruelty free or not tested on animals means that no animal testing was done on the product and its ingredients. F
  5. There are non-animal tests that can replace all animal testing of cosmetics. F
  6. If a product is labeled as all natural or organic it is probably hypo allergenic. F
  7. Even if a product is labeled hypo allergenic it may contain substances that can cause allergic reactions for some people. T
  8. Choosing products with the claim dermatologist tested is a way to avoid an allergic reaction or other skin irritation. F
  9. Lots of lipsticks on the market contain dangerous amounts of lead. F
  10. About 60 to 70% of what you put on your skin is absorbed into your body. F

What is Clarins Beauty Flash Balm?

Madeira must know…What is Clarins Beauty Flash Balm? Is it a primer? A moisturizer? What does it do? (If anything).

The Beauty Brains respond:

According to Clarins this product “instantly moisturizes, brightens, and tightens facial contours so skin looks rested and relaxed.” It also “prepares skin for perfect makeup application.” We suppose you could call this a “moisturizing primer.”

Flash in the pan

A quick look at the ingredients (see below) reveals that the product is water-based and contains the following key ingredients:

  • Hygroscopic agents (propylene glycol and glycerin) which will help bind moisture to skin. However if the climate is very dry these kinds of ingredients can actually pull water out of the skin.
  • Octyldodecanol – a hydrocarbon-based emollients that will help make skin feels smoother.
  • Starch which is a film former. That means as it dries on your skin it will make it feel tighter. This can have a temporary effect on reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

It’s also important to note what this product does NOT contain. There are no highly occlusive moisturizing agents to seal moisture in the skin, such as petrolatum or dimethicone. There are no skin resurfacing agents that would truly make this product “brightening” such as a retinoid or an alpha hydroxy acid.

The Beauty Brains bottom-line

This product should do pretty much what it claims as long as you don’t get your hopes too high. It will certainly provide some degree of moisturization (although there are much better moisturizers on the market); it will also smooth skin and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The starchy film combined with the octyldodecanol should provide a good base for make up. Just remember that it won’t provide any sustained benefits to your skin – once you wash it off the benefits will disappear.

Beauty Flash Balm Ingredients

Aqua/Water/Eau, Propylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Stearate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Bisabolol, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum/Fragrance, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Citrate, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Coumarin, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Eugenol, Limonene, Isoeugenol, Ci 15985/Yellow 6E.


Is it okay to melt coconut oil in a microwave oven?

Lindsay Girl asks…I have used extra virgin coconut oil in my hair as a deep conditioning treatment once a week for several years now. I melt the oil in the microwave. This morning I was reading in an article on the naturallycurly.com website that the author of the article “heard” that you shouldn’t warm coconut oil in the microwave because that will “alter the bonds” in the oil. What say the Brains? Can I safely put the coconut oil in the microwave to melt it? Or is there a better way?

The Beauty Brains respond:

When LG raised this question in our Forum we said “no problem.” But after further consideration we realized that there is some risk involved with heating coconut oil in a microwave oven.

The danger of microwaving coconut oil

Coconut oil penetrates hair because of its size and the configuration of its carbon chain. Unless you’re heating it above the point where it will decompose, microwaving it should cause no problems. In other words, “melting” it is just fine. BUT you need to be very careful when using this approach. Here’s why:

Microwave ovens work by exciting the bonds between atoms, causing them to vibrate. The motion of the molecules vibrating and bouncing around generates heat. Different substances will absorb microwave radiation differently depending on a property called the “dielectrical constant”. Water molecules have a high dielectical constant; they are very mobile and will bounce around a lot. Oil molecules are larger and more fixed. Their dielectrical constant is smaller so and they will take longer to heat up. HOWEVER, the specific heat capacity of oil is less than water which means that oil will hold about twice as much heat as water will. And that means that it’s easy to over heat oil to the point where it could burn you. (f you really want to geek out on dielectrical constants and specific heat capacity check out this thread about microwave absorption by oil in the Physics Forum.)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Melting coconut oil in the microwave is unlikely to hurt the oil but you could accidentally over heat it and give yourself a nasty burn. To be safe you might want to melt the oil in a bowl of hot water instead.


What is Kajal and is it safe around my eyes?

Rozy asks…Is Himalaya Herbals Kajal safe to put around eyes? What ingredient gives it pigment?

The Beauty Brains respond:

Before we can talk about this specific product, we need to explain what is kajal is.

Curious about kajal

Those of you not familiar with Kajal may recognize it by its more common name: Kohl, which is a pigment that has been used since ancient time in parts of Asia and Africa to darken the area around the eyes. (“Kajal” typically refers to Kohl eyeliner while “Surma” refers to Kohl powder.)

Historically kohl was made from a sulfide of lead which, as we all know now, is not the safest of chemicals to expose yourself too. While some old-school kohl/kajal products still exist, most modern versions (like STILA Kajal Eye Liner use the name but not the lead. Instead, they use iron oxide pigments (like those used in mascaras) which are much safer and give the same basic effect.

Is Himalaya Herbals Kajal safe?

Here is where it gets tricky. Unfortunately this company, like many others, does not provide full ingredients lists for its products online. All we’ve been able to find is what they refer to as the “key ingredients” which to us is just marketing speak for “we’re only going to tell you about the ingredients we want you to know about.” Still for the sake of completeness here are the ingredients that we were able to find:

Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus, Vatada) Camphor (Cinnamomum camphora, Karpura) Castor Oil (Ricinus communi, Eranda) Rose (Rosa damascene, Shatapatri) Triphala consisting of the fruits Emblica officinalis (Amalaki), Terminalia chebula (Haritaki) and Terminalia bellerica (Vibhitaki)

It’s obvious that this formula must have more ingredients since there’s nothing here that contains a black pigment. It’s likely that the product uses an iron oxide just like most other companies do you. But, since, in their infinite wisdom they’ve chosen not to share that information with us, there is no way to know for sure that they are not using a lead compound.

Unless you can get the company to give you a full ingredient list I would err on the side of safety and buy a product that’s honest and open about the ingredients it contains.


On this week’s show we talk about the date rape nail polish, stinky celebrities, and more!  Plus a brand new game we call “Improbable Products.” 

Click below to play Episode 49 or click “download” to save the MP3 file to your computer.

Show notes

Improbable Products

In this new game Randy challenges me to guess which of the following new beauty products is the fake.

  1. Old People’s Soap – a soap bar specially designed to neutralize the body odor produced by the elderly. It’s a necessity for nursing homes!
  2. Pig Perfume – a fragrance for dogs which uses pig pheromones to curb excessive barking. It’s the safe, muzzle free alternative.
  3. Eggshell Sunblock – a chemical free lotion that uses crushed eggshells to block UV light – for a “sunburn free eggsperience.”

Which do you think is fake? Listen to the show for the answer!

Beauty Science News

Chameleons and color changing cosmetics

Scientists have discovered how chameleons change color. Do color changing cosmetics work the same way?

Stinky celebrities versus science

According to Soft & Dri deodorant, Cameron Diaz, Matthew McConaughey and Bradley Cooper don’t use deodorant because of the “toxins that most deodorants contain.” So, Soft & Dri  offers an Aluminum-Free Deodorant that is “a safe alternative, with fewer chemicals, that goes gently onto any skin type!” This approach promotes chemophobia and it’s misleading because it implies that an aluminum free deodorant will do the same thing as an aluminum based antiperspirant – which it won’t.

Is the date rape nail polish for real?

You may have seen the news about the new nail posh that can detect date rape drugs. But is this for real? Tune in to find out.

Sensitive skin breakthrough

Beiersdorf, maker of Eucerin and Nivea, has developed a new compound for sensitive skin. One cause of skin irritation is when chemicals trigger nerve cells to fire – that signal is interpreted as pain or irritation. Apparently this compound, which they call Sym-sti-itve works by blocking that signal from reaching the nerve cells. They used capscicn which is pepper extract, known to be irritating. When their active is applied after the pepper extract it reduces or stops the irritation and when applied before the pepper it prevent the irritation from happening at all. This ingredient will be available in their Ultra sensive and anti-redness lines.

Is stress really bad for skin?

Everyone’s heard that stress is bad for skin but now science has as thing or two to say about it.

Is it safe to use DEET against mosquitos?
These days there’s much more concern over mosquito borne diseases like West Niles Virus and dengue fever. Fortunately, DEET is a good mosquito repellant but you’ll still hear the chemophobes complain that it’s not safe, particularly that it’s linked to brain swelling. Well, rest easy because a recent study has confirmed the safety of DEET. BTW – the study also confirmed that changes in diet (like eating lots of garlic) does NOT reduce the number of mosquito bites.

Ten innovations that might change the future of beauty – or not

It’s surprising to see what some people consider innovative. Listen to our discussion of the list and judge for yourself.

LIL buy it now button

Buy your copy of It’s OK to Have Lead in Your Lipstick to learn more about:

  • Clever lies that the beauty companies tell you.
  • The straight scoop of which beauty myths are true and which are just urban legends.
  • Which ingredients are really scary and which ones are just scaremongering by the media to incite an irrational fear of chemicals.
  • How to tell the difference between the products that are really green and the ones that are just trying to get more of your hard earned money by labeling them “natural” or “organic.

Click here for all the The Beauty Brains podcasts.


Does Avon ANEW Clinical Pro Line Eraser really work?

FK1221 asks…What is A-F33? According to AVON “It’s unlike AHA. Unlike Retinol. It works to deactivate collagen blocking ( what does ‘deactivate collagen blocking’ mean?) and help effectively boost collagen production in just 3 days. The look of deep wrinkles begin to fade in just one week.” What part does the ingredient Acetyl Tyrosinamide play in the formulation?

The Beauty Brains respond:

The product you’re referring to is officially known as Avon ANEW Clinical Pro Line Eraser and is new to the market as of September 2012. The magic ingredient Amino-Fill 33 is actually the Acetyl Tyrosinamide that you asked about.

What does “decrease collagen blocking” mean?

Our skin contains an enzyme called PLOD-2 that is partially responsible for ensuring our skin has an adequate amount of healthy collagen. As we age the production of this enzyme drops which causes collagen production to decrease. Less collagen means more lines and wrinkles. Supposedly, A-F 33 works to increase the levels of this enzyme so collagen production remains that youthfully high levels. In other words, the ingredient decreases the chemical that stops new collagen from being created.

Does it really work?

As always, it can be tough to separate the science from the marketing spin when it comes to anti-aging products. We haven’t been able to track down anything on this ingredient that was published in the peer-reviewed technical literature but we did find information from Avon about a poster session presented by one of their researchers at the Academy of American Dermatologists. Here is a summary of some of the key points along with our comments.

In vivo testing showed that the formulation “increased the thickness of the stratum corneum…and compressional elasticity of skin.”

Without being able to review the actual data it’s unclear whether the skin thickening was the result of plumping from moisturization or a more fundamental long-term structural change. It’s also impossible to tell the magnitude of the result. While the researcher noted that the results are statistically significant there is no indication of how large the improvement was. Therefore it’s impossible to tell if this product causes enough improvement to be noticeable to the average person.

In vitro research showed A- F33 was shown to stimulate the production of both collagen and elastin.

In vitro essentially means the testing was done on cells in a test tube not on “complete” skin on a real person. Chemicals applied directly to a solution of living cells have the opportunity to interact with those cells in ways that are much different than a product that is applied to the top of your skin. Therefore this kind of testing is directional at best. Plus, you’ll notice that the ingredient A-F33 was tested, not the finished product. So even if A-F33 works we have no way of knowing if the finished product contains enough of the ingredient to be effective.

ANEW Clinical Pro Line Eraser improved “fine wrinkling, pigmentation and skin texture better than the commercial treatment.”

The study notes that the ANEW product works better than a ”commercial anti-aging wrinkle treatment.” Unfortunately the reference does not disclose which anti-aging product was tested. If this product works better than a retinol containing product we might be impressed. However if the other anti-wrinkle product was simply a moisturizing lotion the results would be less meaningful. There’s no way to tell without access to the full study.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

We haven’t seen strong enough evidence to convince us that this product is worth its high price tag. It was would be really helpful if Avon was a little more forthcoming in the details of their testing or if they published the results in a peer-reviewed journal. Nonetheless we are a little more optimistic than Paula Begoun’s BeautyPedia site which cranked out a scathing review of this product. Unlike many other products there seems to be at least a nugget of science behind this treatment. Try it at your own risk.

Clinical Pro Line Eraser Ingredients



Should I pat my face with water before applying oil?

Ida inquires: In another beauty-related forum, I read the following claim (from a member, not an “expert”) about applying a face oil: “Make sure your face and your hands are slightly damp when applying the oil. Rub the oil between your hands to emulsify slightly, then pat it on your face and massage it in. The oil will help trap the water in. ” Is this true? Can the skin really absorb water this way? And if so, is it beneficial in any way?

The Beauty Brain respond:

The quick answer is: it won’t hurt but it won’t really help much either.

How moisturizers work

The main moisturizing function of oil is to create a barrier that prevents the moisture in the deep layers of your skin from evaporating. The oil can only lock in the water that’s already absorbed by your skin. So, if you’ve just saturated your skin by taking a shower then you’ll lock in quite a bit of moisture with oil. But if your face is dry and then you just splash it with a little water before applying oil, you’re really not helping that much.

Creams and lotions are designed to deliver oil WITH water so you lock in the deeper moisture that’s already in your skin AND get a quick hit of surface moisture from the water in the lotion.

What is “emulsify?”

Also, just to clarify, you can’t really “emulsify” oil and water just by rubbing them together in your hands. There are many technical definitions of emulsify but to put it in layperson terms it means to disperse tiny droplets of one liquid in another liquid. Since oil and water water don’t naturally mix, you need a chemical known as an emulsifier (also called a surfactant) that allows the two to co-mingle without separating.


Is animal testing still necessary to ensure the safety of cosmetics or is it an obsolete idea? Listen to the show to find out the scientific perspective on animal testing of beauty products. 

Click below to play Episode 48 or click “download” to save the MP3 file to your computer.

Show notes

Announcing the winner of the Beauty Brains T-shirt!

On our 44th anniversary show we played the “Name that Noise” game. Hanka from the Czech Republic correctly identified the sound as finger nail clipping (which Perry’s wife hates.)  Congrats Hanka! You win a “Be Brainy About Your Beauty” Tshirt. 

Listen to this week’s show if you’d like to play again. This week’s winner gets a special autographed photo of one of the Beauty Brains doing something unusual. All you have to do is be the first person to leave a comment correctly identifying the beauty-related noise.

Question of the week…Is animal testing still necessary? 

Christina asks… As cosmetic scientists do you feel that animal testing is still relevant to gain data and create safe and effective products for consumers, or is it unneeded and irrelevant?

Is animal testing required?

The only place I could find that definitively required animal testing of cosmetics is China. Russia also requires animal testing but they have recently issued a statement saying they would accept alternative animal testing data. There are a number of countries who have specifically banned animal testing as related to cosmetic products. This includes the EU countries, Norway, Israel, Brazil, and India.

While animal testing is not mandated in countries such as the US, Australia, Canada and Japan, the information is from animal tests are accepted as suitable for demonstrating that a cosmetic meets health and safety standards. And for many aspects of product safety, there are no acceptable alternatives to animal testing. Therefore, although it’s not mandated in some cases manufacturers have no alternative methods of safety testing,

Here is what the FDA says about animal testing of cosmetics….

“The FDA is responsible for assuring that cosmetics are safe and properly labeled. The FD&C Act does not specifically require the use of animals in testing cosmetics for safety, nor does the Act subject cosmetics to FDA premarket approval. However, the agency has consistently advised cosmetic manufacturers to employ whatever testing is appropriate and effective for substantiating the safety of their products. It remains the responsibility of the manufacturer to substantiate the safety of both ingredients and finished cosmetic products prior to marketing. Animal testing by manufacturers seeking to market new products may be used to establish product safety.”

So in a sense, for some types of cosmetic products animal testing is a de facto requirement in the US.

Why are products tested on animals?

Before the 1930s, Prior to the creation of the FDA, the cosmetic and drug industries were pretty much unregulated in the US. When in the 1930’s there were a number of incidents in which people were blinded or even died due to using a drug or cosmetic, Congress passed the FD&C Act of 1938. This created the regulations for cosmetics that we follow today.

The FDA worked with industry to develop methods which could demonstrate product safety to the satisfaction of both government and industry which lead to the testing of cosmetics on animals. How could this have happened? Two reasons:

1. At that time, animal testing was the best model available for product safety testing. We didn’t have the advanced in vitro testing methods we have today.

2. The majority of society had a different view about the treatment of animals back then. People just didn’t look at the issue the same way.  In the last several decades, Most people’s views on animal rights have changed and scientists are working on creating alternatives to animal testing but the technology is slow to develop. We just haven’t had enough technological development to replace all animal testing.

What kinds of animal are used in the development of cosmetic ?

There are 9 basic types of tests that historically have been done on animals:

  • Skin sensitization – tests for allergic reactions
  • Skin irritation – tests for reversible skin damage
  • Eye irritation – tests for reversible and permanent eye damage
  • Oral toxicity – determines how much of a substance ingested kills test subjects
  • Dermal toxicity – determines how much of a substance applied to skin for 24 hrs kills test subjects
  • Inhalation toxicity – determine the amount of a substance that kills test subjects when inhaled
  • Reproductive toxicity – tests for effects on reproductive health (mutagenicity?)
  • Developmental toxicity – tests for effects on fetus (teratogenicity?)
  • Carcinogencity – determines if an ingredient is likely to cause cancer.
  • There are also a large number of companies that still uses one or more of these tests: Here’s a list that was last updated in Jan of 2014: http://www.thevegetariansite.com/ethics_test.htm

Can we completely eliminate animal testing?

People have made the claim that “eliminating animal testing of cosmetics is entirely feasible.” They point to the fact that the US does not specifically require animal testing (they don’t) and the availability of animal testing alternative tests (some do exist). Scientists have developed many advanced alternatives to animal testing—tests that use human cell lines, artificial skin or computer models to test the safety of products. A number of companies employ these methods now reducing the amount of animal testing they do and in many cases eliminating it.

However, there remain types of animal tests which do not have validated animal free alternatives. For example, there are no replacements for inhalation toxicity tests. We haven’t developed an artificial lung yet. There is nothing for repeat dose toxicity. And there are no validated test for carcinogenicity. So, we can’t yet eliminate cosmetic animal testing for those types of factors.

“Cruelty free” claims

How can a company claim a product is “cruelty free” or “not tested on animals? “ Easy – there is no law that defines requirements for these claims so companies are free to make up their own definitions. The simplest way to define cruelty free is something like “Our company does not test our products on any animals.”

But, manufacturers are still required by law to show that a product meets certain safety standards so here’s how they do that:

1. Use animal testing alternatives – in vitro testing has come a long way and can be used to substantiate safety of certain ingredients. That’s a no brainer.

2. Test on humans – Companies can do their safety testing on human volunteers typically patch testing for skin irritation. There are ethical limitations here of course you certainly wouldn’t text toxicity on people.

3. Use ingredients & formulas that have already been tested on animals
Most of the 15,000+ ingredients in the INCI dictionary (the cosmetic ingredient Bible) have been previously tested for safety. Companies
can use ingredients who’s safety was established by someone else. They then point to this data as proof of safety.

Conversely, avoid ingredients that are unknown for safety – Similarly a company can avoid ingredients that haven’t been safety tested or are similar in structure to compounds that are known to have safety issues.

4. Lastly, and most sneaky, is to ask the supplier of the raw material to do the testing for you.
So the problem with these claims is that companies don’t have to disclose HOW they support them. If you’re really concerned, you need to do some digging to understand which of these 4 approaches they’re using.

EU ban on animal testing loophole

I wanted to say something about the EU ban on animal testing which people may not realize. The EU instituted a ban on animal testing for cosmetic products in 2013 so, theoretically, you are not allowed to conduct any animal testing on a cosmetic product. However, companies are allowed to use supporting data that has already been generated to prove safety. And this means that if there was data about an ingredient used in another industry that would be acceptable. So if an ingredient is animal tested for a pharmaceutical application (not banned) that data can be used to prove the safety of it in a cosmetic. Yes, animal testing for cosmetic products is banned but there are ways for companies to get around this ban.

There is at least one organization trying to hold companies accountable to their “no animal testing” positions. The Leaping Bunny program was created by the Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics’ (CCIC). It’s a list of companies that they certify as achieving their cruelty-free standard. If the Leaping Bunny folks deem them worthy of inclusion (after paying money to be certified) then they get to use the Leaping Bunny Logo on their packaging. According to the CCIC, the Leaping Bunny Program provides the best assurance that no new animal testing is used in any phase of product development by the company, its laboratories, or suppliers.

Of course, any company can put a bunny on their packaging and claim that they are “cruelty free.” It’s very difficult for consumers to know who to believe.

Where to learn more

“Safety Evaluation Ultimately Replacing Animal Testing (SEURAT)”


Review of alternatives to animal testing (EU)

FDA and animal testing


List of animal tests


LIL buy it now button

Buy your copy of It’s OK to Have Lead in Your Lipstick to learn more about:

  • Clever lies that the beauty companies tell you.
  • The straight scoop of which beauty myths are true and which are just urban legends.
  • Which ingredients are really scary and which ones are just scaremongering by the media to incite an irrational fear of chemicals.
  • How to tell the difference between the products that are really green and the ones that are just trying to get more of your hard earned money by labeling them “natural” or “organic.

Click here for all the The Beauty Brains podcasts.


Does your Vitamin C lotion contain a dangerous ingredient?

Elana44 asks…I’ve recently heard that sodium benzoate when met with ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can lead to cancer and damage DNA. Is it true?

The Beauty Brains respond:

Why is sodium benzoate in my cosmetics and can it really form benzene?

Sodium benzoate is a preservative that helps protect your creams and lotions from micro-organisms. This story has it roots back in 2005 or so when trace amounts of benzene where discovered in a variety of soft drinks. Benzene is a found in a variety of petrochemical products (like emissions from burning coal and oil, gasoline service stations, and motor vehicle exhaust) and in cigarette smoke. In this case the benzene was apparently being generated by the decarboxylation of the benzoate by ascorbic acid. This was of concern because benzene has been linked to several types of cancer.

The FDA investigated and found that most of the soft drinks had less benzene than is allowed in water. (The FDA sets limits for water but not other beverages.) The limit for water is 10 parts per billion (ppb). (Remember we’re all exposed to chemicals that at low levels are perfectly safe – the dose makes the poison, as they say.) The soft drink manufacturers that were exceeding the 10ppb decided to reformulate their products and those have now dropped to much lower levels. So for now, there doesn’t appear to be any concern for soft drinks. But what about cosmetics?

Definitive data is needed

Vitamin C lotions certainly can contain sodium benzoate. But since no one’s published data we don’t know if these cosmetics undergo the same reaction that occurs in beverages. Since we know that sugar inhibits the creation of benzene, it’s possible that similar ingredients in cosmetics (like sorbitol) could have the same effect.

Since no one has done a definitive study on cosmetics (that I’m aware of) we don’t know what the benzene levels are. (Perhaps individual manufacturers have tested some of their own products. If they have it would be nice if they would share that data.) It’s difficult to guess, but it seems doubtful there’s much to worry about. We know that the pH has to be below 2 for benzene formation to occur and not many cosmetic products are in that ranges. Even if small amounts are formed, there’s less risk to you than if you were ingesting the same amount (because it won’t all penetrate your skin.)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Ok, lots of info here but what to do? It looks like that even under the worst conditions (with the highest level of benzene directly ingested into your body) the risk of cancer is still low compared to environmental exposure to this chemical. If you don’t find that reassuring enough then I see only one other option. Your only choice for true peace of mind is to avoid Vitamin C products that contain sodium or other benzoates. Fortunately this is easy enough to do by reading the ingredient list.

Do any of you Vitamin C fans out there have a recommendation for Elana? Leave a comment and help her out.


Is the “Lift Away the Years Wand” just quackery?

Brittasbits asks…I just read an article on mail online that states a new device called Lift Away the Years wand and serum by Crystal Clear is the new scientific breakthrough of the year! Claiming to erase saggy skin and wrinkles – so my question is does this device actually work ? Or is it yet another gimmick?

The Beauty Brains respond:

Here are the basic claims for this product according to their website:

  • The dual action technology in the Lift Away the Years wand forms the perfect combination in reducing the appearance of ageing skin.
  • The wand uses gentle vibrations to stimulate the muscles in the face while Crystal Clear’s Intense Anti Ageing serum is massaged deeply into the skin.
  • Lift Away the Years produces an instant anti-ageing effect. Used morning and night as part of your daily moisturising routine, the results will get better and better.
  • The Lift Away the Years wand has been designed to create skin that appears younger, firmer and more toned. In a recent study with 30 women, consumers reported a 27% reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and a 45% increase in skin firmness.

We’re not sure how stimulating muscles in the face will help since the cause of wrinkles has less to do with muscles and more to do with collapse of collagen and other skin supportive tissues. If vibrational muscle stimulation really was a cure for wrinkles, every dermatologist would be offering this as an in office treatment!

The claims regarding reduction in appearance of wrinkles and increased skin firmness are very standard claims and can be achieved with “regular” lotions and supported by consumer testing. It’s also less than impressive to note that this is apparently based on a single study with a very small base size (n = 30.)

What’s in the Crystal Serum

They don’t fully disclose ingredients on their website but they do call out the following special ingredients:

  • Matrixyl 3000
  • Biopeptide CL
  • Oxygen Complex
  • Sy-Nake
  • Camelia Vegetal oil
  • Argan Vegetal oil

While, as with many other anti-aging ingredients, there is some data on in vitro cell cultures which indicate these are functional, there is little or no data proving they work when applied topically to skin.

The Beauty Brain bottom line

Without a lot more disclosure on their formula and test data, we’d have to call this a gimmick. It’s certainly not the scientific breakthrough of the year!