This week we answer listener questions about Bio Oil and other products. But first, another game of Improbable Products…
Improbable Products
Which of these bad body odor products is not real:
- The iPhone bad breathalyzer that tells you if you have halitosis.
- Odor detecting gym socks that change color when you feet start to smell.
- The Smart Deodorant stick that automatically dispenses just the right amount of deodorant so your arm pits don’t smell.
Listen to the show for the answer!
Does Bio Oil work?
Bio Oil consists of mineral oil, triisononanoin, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, retinyl palmitate, chamomile oil, lavender oil, rosemary oil, calendula flower extract, sunflower Seed oil, soybean oil, bisabolol. According to our buddy Colin “The results of a clinincal trial are reported on the website. The term clinical trial is stretching it a bit as there were only 12 people involved, and there is no indication that a placebo was used. Only 50% of users saw an improvement after 4 weeks. There isn’t any indication of how much of an improvement they had. I don’t think this trial on its own is particularly strong evidence, but when you put it into the context that a lot of people who have used the product speak highly of it I am prepared to believe it is doing something. At the end of the day, Bio-Oil is a good moisturizer that may have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Are trade journals dirty rotten liars?
Chris asks…You guys mention that ‘Tetra-C’ reduces pigmentation according to a trade journal. Is there reason to be skeptical of trade journals? Yes. Trade journals usually feature articles written by the companies that sell the ingredients and the articles are not peer reviewed. This doesn’t automatically mean the research is bad it just means that it may be biased and hence you should be skeptical.
Trade journals include:
- C&T
- HAPPI
- GCI
- Spray Technology
It’s better than nothing as long as you read the research carefully and keep a skeptical eye on the claims.
What’s up with vegetable collagen?
Lauren asks…Algenist brand “Genius” products use “vegetable collagen” as an ingredient and claim that it “reinforces skin structure and supports natural skin matrix.” What are your thoughts on this? And I know you said there are no vegetable sources for collagen…so are they flat out lying?
Yes, we talked about collagen back in Episode 73. And we did say there’s no such thing. We looked at the ingredient list for this Algenist product and saw that, among other things, it does indeed contain something called “Vegetable Collagen.” So what is this?
I found an article looked about “vegetable collagen” in HAPPI which says that the company DKHS sells an ingredient known as ”Plant Collagen.” It’s official INCI is “Water, butylene glycol, collagen extract.” They describe it as an amino acid complex derived from plant protein which is similar to animal collagen. Plant collagen is high in oxyproline, proline, glutamic acid and glycine amino acids and is easily re-synthesized as collagen when it is absorbed into the body.”
So, first of all, it’s NOT real collagen but a plant protein that is similar. Second of all, it appears that Algenist is NOT using the official INCI name. HOWEVER, I also found this article in Pubmed that talks about genetically engineering tobacco plants to grow “human” collagen. Hmmmm. Could Algenist be using this? Seems unlikely.
Is Hexiplex the same as Helioplex?
Rachael asks…Hi Beauty Brains. I was at Walgreens yesterday and saw a new sunscreen product I’m curious about – “Hexiplex” on some L’Oreal bottles. From what I’ve read, Neutrogena’s Helioplex or L’Oreal’s Mexoryl are the best sunscreens to use. Is Hexiplex identical to Helioplex? Is it a new name for Mexoryl (which is legal here but not still widely available, as I understand it)? My kids have an insane family history of skin cancer on their father’s side and I don’t take chances; I recently asked a Canadian friend to mail me some Mexoryl sunscreen!
Thanks so much for your insight. I tell all my friends they NEED to follow you blog!
Hexiplex is a magic spell that protects your skin from…just kidding. It’s actually a trademark assigned to L’Oreal for “A combination of ingredients used as an integral component of non-medicated sun care and sunscreen preparations.”
I found it this product: L’Oreal Paris Advanced Suncare Silky Sheer BB lotion from 2014.
Here are the ingredients:
Active Ingredients: Avobenzone (3%), Homosalate (10.72%), Octisalate (3.21%), Octocrylene (6%), Oxybenzone (3.86%)
Inactive Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Alcohol Denat., Silica, Dicaprylyl Ether, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Nylon 12, PEG 8 Laurate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dodecene, Sodium Chloride, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Aluminum Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Iron Oxides, P Anisic Acid, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Poloxamer 407, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Lauryl PEG/PPG 18/18 Methicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Poly C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate.
As you can see it does NOT contain ecamsule which is the name for Mexoryl SX. Seems to be they trademarked hexiplex because it looks and sounds a little bit like Helioplex.
Nail polish questions
Little Tabby has a three part question about nail polish separation and quality:
1. Is a layer of oil/clear substance on top of the pigment a sign that the nail polish is old ?
2. When you add thinner too many times, what signs of poor quality should I look out for (I did have a nail polish which even though it had been thinned too many times did not dry properly on my nails – I disposed of that one).
3. Is nail polish chipping after 1 or 2 days also a sign of deteriorating quality ?
1. This is not necessarily sign of age it could just be the quality of the formulation. If you shake the product and it stays together then it’s probably fine. If it separates quickly that’s not a good thing. In general, separation is a sign of poor quality or a good product that’s gone bad.
2. Adding too much thinner can make a product dry more slowly. (Depending of course on which thinner you use.) Too much thinner can also interfere with the ability of the nail polish to form a hard film on your nails to it might not adhere well, or it might crack more easily.
3. Maybe. It could also be a sign of poor application.